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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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Microfiche 

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CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Ttchnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibiiographiquaa 


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which  may  aKar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
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tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaclcad  baiow. 


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Couvartura  da  couiaur 


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Couvartura  andommagia 

Covars  raatorad  and/or  iaminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurAa  at/ou  pailiculia 

Covar  titia  misaing/ 

La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Coiourad  mapa/ 

Cartas  giographiquas  an  couiaur 


□   Coiourad  inic  (i.a.  othar  than  biua  or  biacic)/ 
Encra  da  couiaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  biaua  ou  noira) 

I     I   Coiourad  platas  and/or  iiiustrations/ 


Pianchas  at/ou  iiiustrations  •ti  couiaur 


Bound  with  othar  matariai/ 
Raiii  avac  d'autras  documents 


Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarlor  margin/ 

La  raliura  sarrAe  paut  causar  da  i'ombra  ou  da  la 
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Blank  laavas  addad  during  rastoratlon  may 
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mais.  lorsqua  cala  Atalt  possibia,  cas  pagas  n'ont 
pas  At*  f  limAas. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  maiilaur  axemplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  At*  poaaibia  da  aa  procurer.  Las  dAtaiis 
da  cet  exemplaira  qui  aont  paut-Atra  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  mithoda  norrnaia  da  filmaga 
aont  indiquAa  ci-daaaoua. 


Thee 
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r~*|  Coloured  pagea/ 


V 


Pagea  da  couieur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pagea  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurAes  at/ou  peliicultes 

Pagas  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dAcolorAes,  tachaties  ou  piquAes 


Theii 
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the  le 
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other 
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□Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachAas 

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Tranaparance 


Tranaparance 

Quality  of  prir 

Quaiitt  InAgaia  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  matAriai  supplAmentaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Mition  disponible 


nn   Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~n   Includes  supplementary  material/ 

r~n   Only  edition  available/ 


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shall 
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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure. 
etc.,  ont  At*  fiimAes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  k 
obtenir  la  meiiieure  image  possible. 


This  item  Is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checlced  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


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16X 


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Tha  copy  filmad  hara  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  iagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  icaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacif ications. 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grAca  A  la 
gAnirositA  da: 

Bibliothdqua  nationala  du  Canada 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  At*  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  granc  «ciin.  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatb  da  l'axamplaira  f  ilmA.  at  an 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustrated  Impras- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriate.  All 
othar  original  copias  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impres- 
sion,  and  ending  on  the  last  paga  with  a  printed 
or  illustratad  impression. 


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Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'iiiustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  an  commandant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'iiiustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  --^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
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FARTHEST  NORTH; 


OR, 


THE  LIFE  AND  EXPLORATIONS  OF  LIEUTENANT 

JAMES  BOOTH  LOGKWOOD,    OF   THE 

GREELY  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION. 


BY 


CHARLES    LANMAN. 


NEW  YORK: 
D.   APPLETON    AND    COMPANY, 

1,  3,  AND  5  BOND  STIiEET. 

1885. 


GLyo 


AA/V/J;  I-^N ^  Q_ 


139890 


W/um  we  think  of  the  adventure  of  our  times ;  when 
we  recall  the  great  Arctic  explorations  that  have  called 
forth  an  endurance  and  daring  which  have  been  unsur- 
passed in  other  days ;  .   .   .  what  is  there  that  is  more 
romantic  than  they  are  in  any  history  of  any  age? 

From  a  Thanksgiving  Sermon  by 
Rev.  Phillips  Brooks. 


CorYRTGHT,   1685, 

By  D.  AI'PLETON  AND  COMPANY. 


PREFACE. 


when 

called 

nsur- 

more 

h 


It  is  believed  that  this  book,  with  its  true  but 
none  the  less  stirring  adventures,  will  be  of  much  in- 
terest to  the  general  public,  as  well  as  gratifying  to 
the  many  warm  friends  oi  Lieutenant  Lockwood.  It 
will  likewise  correct  any  erroneous  impressions  which 
may  have  arisen  from  the  publication  of  garbled  ex- 
tracts from  the  official  journals  kept  by  the  different 
members  of  the  Greely  party  and,  by  order  of  the 
War  Department,  laid  open  to  the  public.  By  this 
order,  Lockwood's  journal  and  those  of  others  became 
public  property,  and  hence  any  reference  to  them  in 
advance  of  their  official  publication  is  allowable. 

The  few  pages  devoted  to  the  early  life  can  not  bo 
expected  to  especially  interest  the  general  public,  but 
will  gratify  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  friends.  They 
are  here  produced  to  give  them  permanency,  and  to 
show  his  sterling  character. 

No  attempt  is  here  made  to  give  a  history  of  the 
Expedition,  and  only  so  much  of  Lockwood's  journal 
is  produced  as  shows  his  connection  therewith.  The 
voyage  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay  is  given  more  in  detail. 


2 


PREFACE. 


as  it  presents  a  lively  picture  of  an  interesting  people 
not  much  known,  and  as  it  exliibits  the  buoyant  spir- 
its with  which  he  entered  upon  the  work,  before  dis- 
sensions in  camp  had  checked  them,  though  without 
marring  his  faithfulness  and  energy.  The  important 
part  he  had  in  the  enterprise,  his  zeal,  energy,  and 
loyalty  to  his  chief  and  to  the  cause,  all  are  fully  set 
forth,  and  will  be  more  clearly  seen  when  the  more 
elaborate  history  of  the  Expedition  shall  be  published 
by  Lieutenant  Grcely,  as  will  shortly  be  done. 

Although  the  journal  has  been  freely  used,  its 
language  and  style  have  not  been  closely  followed,  ex- 
cept in  those  parts  quoted  which  refer  to  Lockwood's 
sentiments  and  feelings.  The  deep  pathos  of  these 
could  be  expressed  as  well  in  no  other  words. 

His  journal  is  very  full  and  complete  on  the  peril- 
ous boat-voyage  to  Cape  Sabine,  and  in  the  heart- 
rending struggle  for  life  in  that  ever-memorable  hut 
where  he  and  so  many  others  laid  down  their  lives. 
This  has  purposely  been  rjduced  to  a  few  pages,  giv- 
ing the  story  only  so  far  as  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was 
connected  with  it.  The  same  may  be  said  as  to  the 
home-life  at  the  station  on  Lady  Franklin  Bay. 

The  portrait  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  is  from 
an  excellent  photograph  taken  a  short  time  before  he 
started  for  St.  John's,  and  two  of  the  w^oodcuts  are 
from  photographs  by  Sergeant  Rice.  "Arctic  Sledg- 
ing" was  made  up  from  a  description  and  a  sketch  by 
Sergeant  Brainard,  and  "Farthest  North"  from  a 
sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

The  map  is  a  reproduction  of  that  published  by 


PREFACE. 


8 


from 
re  he 
Is  are 
|ledg- 
phby 
)ni  a 

Id  by 


the  London  Geo;]^rnphicul  Society,  which  is  an  exact 
transcript  of  maps  drawn  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
and  submitted  by  liim  to  Lieutenant  (ireely  witli  re- 
ports of  sledge-journeys.  Tliis  map  gives  the  names 
agreed  upon  by  Lieutenant  (Jreely  and  Lieutenant 
Lockwood,  and  arc  those  referred  to  in  the  journal 
and  in  this  book.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that 
many  of  tliese  names  diller  from  those  on  tlio  oflicial 
map  published  by  authority  to  the  world.  The  names 
first  given  commemorate  events  connected  witli  those 
wonderful  sledge-journeys,  iis  will  be  seen  in  the  text ; 
and,  if  a  few  unimportant  lakes  and  points  were  named 
after  friends  and  relatives,  this  might  have  been  con- 
ceded to  one  who  accomplished  so  much,  and  that 
much  so  well.  The  map  of  the  London  Geographical 
Society  will  probably  live,  and  the  other  perish,  as  it 
should. 

Captain  Markham,  Royal  Navy,  soon  after  the  re- 
turn of  the  Greely  Expedition,  declared,  in  articles 
published  in  a  leading  English  magazine,  that  Lock- 
wood  never  got  beyond  Cape  Britannia,  and  that  he 
mistook  Cape  May  for  that  cape,  etc.  It  was  thought 
that,  when  the  history  of  this  sledge-journey  was  bet- 
ter known,  Markham  would  be  glad  to  withdraw  this 
ungenerous  aspersion.  This  i"  done  so  far  as  to  admit 
that  Lockwood  did  reach  83°  ^^4'  north  latitude,  44°  5' 
west  longitude  ;  but  it  is  now  said,  in  the  article 
"Polar  Regions,"  of  the  ne^  Encyclopaedia Britannica, 
written  by  the  captain's  brother,  that  all  this  region 
had  previously  been  explored  and  exhaustively  exam- 
ined by  the  English  expedition  of  1875-76. 


4  PREFACE. 

This  is  very  remarkable,  in  view  of  the  faot  that 
Lockwood  Ishmd,  whicli  was  readied  by  Lockwood, 
is  one  hundred  geographical  miles  east  and  forty  miles 
north  of  Capo  Britannia  which  Beaumont  saw  at  tho 
distance  of  twenty  miles,  but  never  reached. 

In  tho  same  article  are  expressed  sentiments  in  ac- 
cord with  those  contained  in  tiiis  book,  viz.  :  **  If  the 
simple  and  necessary  precaution  had  been  taken  of 
Btationinpf  a  depot-ship  in  a  good  harbor  at  the  en- 
trance of  Smith's  Sound,  in  annual  communication 
with  Greely  on  one  side  and  with  America  on  the 
other,  there  would  have  been  no  disaster.  If  precau- 
tions proved  to  be  necessary  by  experience  are  taken, 
there  is  no  undue  risk  or  danger  in  polar  enterprises. 
There  is  no  question  as  to  the  value  and  importance 
of  polar  discovery,  and  as  to  tho  principles  on  which 
expeditions  should  be  sent  out.  Their  objects  are  ex- 
ploration for  scientific  purposes  and  tho  encourage- 
ment of  maritime  enterprise." 


CONTENTS. 


FAUB 

I.  Early  Lifk      .       .       .       .       .       .       .       ,7 

II.  Army-Life  in  Arizona 20 

III.  Army-Life  in  Nebraska 81 

IV.  Army-Life  in  Kansas .43 

V.  Army-Life  in  Indian  Tkruitory  and  Colorado     53 

VI.  Preparing  for  the  Arctic  Regions    .       .        .58 
VII.  From  Newfoundland  to  Lady  Franklin  IJay  .    G4 

VIII.     IIOUSE-DUILDING   AND   LoCAL  PIXPLORATIONS    .  .      87 

IX.  Preliminary  Sledge  PLxpeditions  and  Life  at 

THE  Station Ill 

X.  "The  Arctic  Moon" 132 

XI.  Expedition  to  Lockwood  Island  ....  139 

XII.  From  Lockwood  Island  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay.  178 

XIII.  Waiting  and  Watching 194 

XIV.  Resuming  a  Desperate  Struggle        .       .       .  229 
XV.  Across  Grinnell  Land 249 

XVL  Preparing  for  Home 279 

XVII.  Homeward  Bound  286 

XVIII.  The  Final  Catastrophe 290 

XIX.  The  Woeful  Return 317 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Portrait  of  James  B.  Lockwood. 

LocKwooD,  Natives,  and  Kyack  at  Disco,  Greenland. 

Lockwood's  Corner. 

Sledging  over  the  Arctic  Floe. 

Taking  Observations  at  Lockwood  Island. 

Map  showing  Lockwood's  Explorations. 


FARTHEST   NORTH. 


I. 


EARLY  LIFE. 

In  the  following  pages,  it  is  proposed  to  record  the 
personal  history  of  an  American  hero  whose  fortune 
it  was,  at  the  sacrifice  of  his  life,  to  visit  and  explore 
the  utmost  limit  in  the  Arctic  regions  ever  attained 
by  human  skill  and  enterprise.  Aside  from  the  in- 
formation communicated  to  me  by  his  family,  the 
materials  placed  in  my  hands  consist  of  his  private 
correspondence  and  various  journals  which  he  faith- 
fully kept  while  serving  his  country  on  the  Western 
frontiers,  as  well  as  in  the  inhospitable  domain  of  the 
North.  As  the  poet  Fitz-Greene  Ilalleck  wrote  about 
a  kindred  character — 

"He  lived,  as  mothers  wish  their  sons  to  live," 

and,  on  the  score  of  fidelity  to  duty, 

"  He  died,  as  fathers  wish  their  sons  to  die," 

leaving  a  name  that  will  long  bo  honored  in  every 
civilized  land  as  that  of  a  martyr  in  the  cause  of 
geographical  exploration. 


8 


FARTllEST  NORTH. 


ii: 


Many  of  those  connected  with  the  Naval  Academy 
at  Annapolis,  Maryland,  before  the  civil  war,  will  re- 
member a  playful  and  mischievous  boy,  whose  ready 
smile  and  cheerful  ways  beguiled  them  in  their  hours 
of  relaxation.  Others  who  were  at  that  school  after 
the  war  will  remember  the  same  boy,  grown  into  a 
youth  of  sixteen  years,  rugged  in  aspect,  devoted  to 
manly  sports,  and  assiduous  in  all  his  duties.  It  is 
the  story  of  his  brief  but  eventful  life  to  which  this 
volume  is  devoted,  written  for  the  information  of  his 
friends  and  all  those  who  admire  true  heroism  and 
rare  abilities  when  tillied  to  sufferings  for  the  public 
weal. 

James  Booth  Lockwood  was  the  second  son 
and  third  child  of  General  Henry  II.  Lockwood  and 
Anna  Booth  Lockwood.  lie  was  born  at  the  Naval 
Academy,  Annapolis,  on  the  9th  of  October,  1852, 
at  which  time  and  place  his  father — a  Professor  of 
Mathematics  in  the  Navy — instructed  the  midship- 
men in  the  military  branches,  as  he  had  done  for 
many  years  before.  Both  his  parents  were  from  the 
State  of  Delaware,  and  came  from  the  best  stock  of 
that  State ;  and,  as  his  father  taught  his  students 
"  how  to  shoot,''  and  prepare  themselves  for  the  con- 
flicts of  life,  it  was  quite  natural  that  the  son  should 
have  acquired  a  love  of  noble  deeds  and  adventure. 

Like  many  boys,  he  had  his  narrow  escapes  from 
death,  one  of  which  occurred  in  April,  1860,  when, 
having  fallen  into  the  river  from,  the  dock,  he  was 
rescued  in  an  insensible  condition,  and  restored  to 
life  with  great  difficulty.     This  escape  must  have  been 


EARLY  LIFE. 


9 


recalled  by  him  with  special  emotion  in  after-years 
amid  his  struggles  with  the  ice  of  Smith's  Sound. 

Ilis  innate  love  of  fun  had  been  one  of  his  charac- 
teristics from  childhood,  nor  was  it  subdued  even 
when  recovering  from  the  accident  which  nearly  cost 
him  his  life  ;  for,  while  lying  in  his  bed,  he  peered 
into  his  father's  face  with  a  quizzical  smile,  and  re- 
marked, "  I  was  drowned,  but  not  drowned  dead." 

When  the  Naval  Academy  was  occupied  by  a  gen- 
eral of  the  army,  in  1861,  and  the  students  and  pro- 
fessors were  transferred  to  Newport,  Rhode  Island, 
young  Lockwood  accompanied  his  father  and  fam- 
ily, and  was  placed  at  a  public  school  in  that  place. 
After  a  brief  residence  in  Newport,  his  father,  being 
a  graduate  of  the  Military  Academy  at  West  Point, 
was  called  upon  to  command  a  volunteer  regiment 
of  Delaware  troops,  and  having  been  subsequently 
commissioned  a  brigadier-general  of  volunteers,  he 
was  placed  in  charge  of  the  Eastern  Shore  counties 
of  Virginia  and  returned  to  the  region  of  hostilities, 
making  his  headquarters  at  Drummondtown,  in 
Accomac  County.  In  this  quaint  and  quiet  place, 
and  while  a  mere  stripling  of  ten  years,  young  Lock- 
Vood  displayed  his  love  of  adventure  and  active  life 
by  forming  a  company  of  all  the  colored  boys  in  the 
village,  erecting  earthworks  in  a  vacant  lot,  and,  all 
armed  with  corn-stalks  and  broom-handles,  meeting 
a  company  of  vhite  boys  in  mimic  war — noisy,  if  not 
dangerous  to  life  or  limb.  The  vanity  of  personal 
strife,  however,  soon  becoming  irksome  to  his  mind, 
he  turned  his  attention  to  horsemanship,  and  explored 


I 


10 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


the  surrounding  shores  of  Accomac  on  a  Chincoteague 
pony  belonging  to  his  father.  lie  also  spent  many 
quiet  hours  conversing  about  horses  and  their  habits 
with  the  soldiers  in  the  garrison,  with  whom  he  was 
a  special  favorite.  After  a  while,  his  fatlier  was 
transferred  to  the  command  of  troops  at  Harper's 
Ferry,  and  there  a  new  field  of  adventure  occuxiied 
the  attention  of  the  incipient  hero.  He  was  fore- 
most in  climbing  the  neighboring  mountain-heights 
and  scaling  precipices,  and  always  on  the  lookout 
for  adventure  along  the  waters  of  the  Potomac. 
Afterward,  when  living  with  his  family  near  the 
city  of  Baltimore,  he  displayed  his  activity  and  en- 
ergy in  other  ways.  When  neighboring  boys  were 
wont  to  trespass  on  his  father's  grounds  and  fruit- 
trees,  he  was  quite  as  ready  to  defend  his  home  as 
he  had  been  in  Accomac  to  maintain  the  national 
struggle  then  rending  the  land.  And  here  it  was  that 
he  often  accompanied  his  father  on  his  rounds  among 
the  military  works  near  Baltimore,  and  always  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  the  troops  by  his  skill  in  rid- 
ing. But  these  experiences  were  not  deemed  satisfac- 
tory for  molding  the  character  of  a  boy,  and  then  it 
was  that  his  father  sent  him  to  a  boarding-school  at 
Bethlehem,  in  Pennsylvania,  kept  by  a  Mr.  Schwartz, 
a  good  scholar  and  strict  disciplinarian.  Of  course, 
like  those  of  all  boys,  his  letters  teemed  with  com- 
plaints. He  was  very  homesick — a  mere  child  sepa- 
rated from  all  he  loved.  In  one  letter  he  spoke  of 
praying  to  God  to  make  him  satisfied.  In  after-years, 
and  when  suffering  all  the  horrors  of  the  Arctic,  his 


EARLY  LIFE. 


11 


1 


mother's  prayer  was  tliat  his  childhood's  star  might 
again  arise,  and  lead  his  sorrowing  heart  to  that  com- 
fort found  only  above.  His  chief  grievances  were  a 
Dutch  dish  regularly  given  to  the  boys,  called  scrapul, 
and  the  discipline  of  powers  administered  to  those 
who  failed  in  their  studies.  In  this  latter  punish- 
ment, the  delinquent  was  required  to  raise  to  the  for- 
tieth, fiftieth,  or  one  hundredth  power  any  number 
given  him.  However  distasteful  to  him  at  the  time, 
he  seems  to  have  changed  his  mind  upon  the  subjects 
of  food  and  discipline  afterward  ;  for  he  became,  after 
his  return  home,  a  strong  advocate  of  scrapul  as  a 
physical,  and  of  "powers"  as  a  mental  diet.  Eeturn- 
ing,  in  18G6,  with  his  father  to  Annapolis,  he  was 
sent  to  St.  John's  College  in  that  place,  and  at  that 
time  in  a  flourishing  condition,  under  the  able  admin- 
istration of  James  C.  Welling,  now  the  accomplished 
President  of  Columbian  College.  Although  his  mental 
abilities  were  acknowledged  as  superior,  he  preferred 
action  to  books,  and  his  success  there  was  not  satisfac- 
tory to  his  father.  Others  known  to  be  his  mental  in- 
feriors took  a  higher  stand.  He,  however,  read  some 
Latin,  and  made  considerable  progress  in  mathematics. 
Here  we  come  to  a  new  illustration  of  his  character. 
During  his  residence  within  the  walls  of  the  Academy, 
a  species  of  tyranny  existed  among  the  sons  of  naval 
officers  of  his  own  age  with  whom  he  associated,  which 
he  could  not  endure.  Rank  in  the  father  was  sup- 
posed to  give  rank  or  prestige  to  the  son.  This  theory 
young  Lockwood  was  unwilling  to  acknowledge,  and 
the  consequence  was  that  he  soon  found  himself  beset 


12 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


by  those  whom  he  opposed.  But  then,  as  always  with 
the  free  and  brave,  right  prevailed,  and  the  aggressors 
were  sent  to  the  wall,  while  the  fearless  victor  very 
soon  became  the  peer  of  his  associates.  The  situation 
of  the  Academy  offering  peculiar  facilities  for  boating, 
fishing,  swimming,  etc.,  the  professor's  son  became 
an  expert  in  all  these  exercises,  making  pets  of  his 
sail  and  row  boats,  as  he  had  done  with  the  ponies  of 
Chincoteague.  Many  of  the  Annapolis  students,  now 
high  officers  in  the  navy,  have  spoken  of  his  frolic- 
some pranks  at  that  time  within  the  grounds  of  the 
Academy — for  example,  how  he  mimicked  the  strut 
of  the  drum-major,  how  he  teased  the  watchman  by 
hiding  among  the  trees  and  bushes,  personating  an 
intruder  on  the  grounds,  and  how  he  alarmed  the  ser- 
vant-maids and  the  children  by  appearing  suddenly 
before  them  like  a  phantom.  He  was  more  fond  of 
reading  than  of  study,  and  among  his  favorite  books 
were  those  of  De  Foe,  Mayne  Eeid,  and  others  of  that 
class.  To  what  extent  he  was  familiar  with  the  his- 
tories of  John  Ledyard  and  Joseph  R.  Bellot  c  n  not 
be  stated,  but  there  is  a  striking  similarity  in  their 
characters,  and  indeed  it  was  the  fate  of  the  latter, 
like  Lockwood,  to  lose  his  life  in  the  Arctic  regions. 
They  form  a  trio  of  remarkable  explorers,  whose  fame 
will  be  perennial,  but  it  was  the  fate  of  the  last  one 
mentioned  to  reach  the  highest  success.  During  the 
latter  part  of  his  residence  at  Annapolis,  he  spent 
many  of  his  spare  hours  on  his  father's  farm.  By 
way  of  encouragement,  his  father  assigned  to  him  a 
patch  of  ground  for  his  special  cultivation,  with  ferti- 


EARLY  LU'E. 


13 


lizers  and  the  use  of  a  team.  To  the  surprise  of  all,  hia 
success  seemed  amazing,  and  his  crops  were  good  and 
profitable.  With  the  money  thus  secured  he  pur- 
chased for  himself  a  watch  and  a  sporting  gun,  lie 
had  a  special  fondness  for  dogs,  and  exerted  over  them 
great  influence.  Ilis  favorite  in  this  direction  was 
a  short-legged,  long-bodied,  common  rat-terrier.  In 
the  purity  of  this  dog's  blood,  he  was  a  decided  believer, 
which  faith  he  maintained  with  many  hot  arguments, 
and  exemplified  by  teaching  the  animal  a  great  variety 
of  tricks.  Indeed,  the  high  degree  of  training  to 
which  he  brought  the  dog  Jack  was  remarkable.  He 
was  always  quiet  and  positive  toward  the  animal,  and 
Jack  gave  his  commands  a  serious  and  implicit  obedi- 
ence. One  of  the  feats  performed  by  the  dog  was  to 
carry  a  candlestick  with  a  lighted  candle  wherever  or- 
dered to  do  so.  Another  was  to  this  effect :  the  boy 
would  place  a  small  scrap  of  paper  on  the  parlor  wall 
at  a  height  which  Jack  was  hardly  able  to  reach. 
Jack's  attention  would  then  be  called  to  the  paper, 
and  the  dog  and  master  would  retire  up-stairs.  Some 
time  afterward.  Jack,  in  obedience  to  a  mere  word, 
would  proceed  to  the  parlor,  and,  to  the  amusement 
of  those  congregated  there,  launch  his  body  at  the 
paper  until  he  finally  secured  it,  and  then  would  carry 
it  to  his  master.  Although  this  dog  had  a  special 
dislike  for  fire,  he  would,  under  orders,  pull  chestnuts 
out  of  the  hot  coals,  even  if  it  took  him  an  hour  to 
perform  the  task ;  and  it  is  also  related  of  him  that 
on  one  occasion,  when  he  slipped  his  muzzle  on  the 
Academy  grounds,  he  picked  it  up  and  took  it  to  hia 


u 


FARTHEST  NORTU. 


il 


111 


! 


master.  When  the  lad's  father  was  ordered  to  the  Na- 
tional Observatory,  the  family  removing  to  AVashing- 
ton,  the  pet  dog  accompanied  them,  and  the  intimacy 
between  the  dog  and  his  master  was  unabated.  They 
often  rambled  through  the  streets  together,  and  it 
was  during  one  of  their  walks  along  Pennsylvania 
Avenue  that  the  dog  disappeared,  and  was  never  re- 
covered by  his  owner,  whose  grief  was  most  sincere 
and  manifest.  He  published  an  advertisement,  and, 
true  to  his  regard  for  the  departed,  he  spoke  of  it  as 
a  pure-blooded  animal ;  which  statement  was  prob- 
ably the  reason  why  the  dog  was  never  returned,  as 
no  stranger  could  have  believed  in  the  alleged  pedi- 
gree of  such  an  ungainly  creature. 

After  young  Lockwood's  father  and  family  had 
become  settled  in  Washington,  it  was  decided  that  he 
should  return  to  Annapolis  and  take  charge  of  the 
farm  until  some  more  suitable  or  congenial  employ- 
ment should  come  into  view.  In  looking  over  the 
home  letters  which  he  wrote  at  that  time,  I  find  a 
few  developments  of  character  which  are  worthy  of 
mention.  For  example,  in  February,  1872,  he  writes 
as  follows : 

"I  find  Annapolis  the  same  as  ever.  It  would 
hardly  do  for  Rip  Van  Winkle  to  go  to  sleep  here,  for, 
when  he  awoke,  he  would  find  no  change,  not  even  by 
death." 

After  speaking  in  the  same  letter  of  a  man  going 
to  purchase  implements  in  Baltimore,  he  says :  "I 
think  it  would  pay  one  capable  of  judging  of  such 
things,  or  one  endowed  with  *  Lock  wood  Common 


EARLY   LIFE. 


15 


Sense,' "  this  allusion  being  to  an  imaginary  manual 
which  the  children  had  attributed  to  their  father. 
The  quiet  humor  of  the  youthful  farmer  is  manifested 
in  another  letter  after  this  fashion  :  *'  I  have  been  suf- 
fering all  the  week  from  the  cllects  of  a  poison  most 
probably  communii  .ted  from  some  vine.  It  mani- 
fests itself  pretty  much  as  Job's  troubles  showed 
themselves,  and  no  position  of  body  except  standing 
affords  relief.  I  haven't  yet  got  down  into  the  ashes. 
If  tartar  emetic  produced  these  eruptions,  they  might 
be  attributed  in  some  way  to  the  evil  agency  of  Mrs. 
W ." 

The  person  here  alluded  to  was  the  one  who  be- 
came notorious  for  the  alleged  poisoning  of  General 
\y.  S.  Ketcham,  in  Baltimore.  Young  Lockwood  had 
met  her  at  a  boarding-house  in  Annapolis  after  her 
release  from  prison,  and  was  agreeably  impressed  by 
her  conversation  and  manners.  On  a  subsequent  oc- 
casion, when  visiting  his  family  in  Washington,  and 
some  severe  remark  had  been  made  against  the  lady 
in  question,  he  demanded  that  the  company  present 
should  not  abuse  an  absent  friend  in  his  presence. 
Being  of  a  sensitive  nature  in  regard  to  the  weather, 
as  is  proved  by  several  of  his  Annapolis  letters,  and  by 
such  passages  as  the  one  now  to  be  quoted,  it  seems 
surprising  that  he  should  ever  have  decided  to  visit 
the  icy  regions  of  the  North. 

"  This  gloomy  weather,"  he  says,  **  is  by  no  means 
calculated  to  elate  one's  spirits,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
makes  everything  appear  in  its  most  dreary  and  deso- 
late light,  especially  on  a  farm  like  this,  and,  though 


!ii' 


16 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I ;  'II 


tho  spring  will  bring  more  work  and  attention,  yet  I 
shall  Lail  its  appearance  with  joy.  I  must  confess 
that  1  can  not  prevent  a  feeling  of  loneliness  from 
coming  over  me,  particularly  in  the  daytime,  for  at 
night  my  lamp  and  open  wood-fire  make  things  more 
cheerful,  or  rather  less  dreary." 

As  these  letters  were  written  from  a  farm,  and 
by  a  mere  boy,  they  are  chiefly  devoted  to  asking  for 
advice  as  to  how  he  should  manage  affairs,  and  to 
reporting  the  condition  of  the  crops ;  but,  in  their 
■way,  they  prove  that  there  was  much  solid  man- 
hood in  the  lad,  and  that  he  looked  upon  life  as 
something  substantial,  and  not  as  a  kind  of  dream- 
land. 

On  one  occasion,  when  visiting  his  home,  he  no- 
ticed that  one  of  his  sisters  was  manifesting  what 
he  thought  an  unreasonable  excitement  about  the 
advent  of  cockroaches  in  the  kitchen,  whereupon  ho 
drew  the  figure  of  a  vessel  under  full  sail,  beneath 
which  he  wrote  the  following :  "  The  brig  Anna 
Baby,  bound  to  the  north  polo  for  a  load  of  cock- 
roaches." 

On  another  occasion,  after  consulting  the  family 
copy  of  Webster's  Dictionary,  he  wrote  upon  one  of 
the  fly-leaves,  opposite  the  indorsements  of  Henry 
Clay,  Daniel  Webster,  and  other  distinguished  men, 
these  words  :  '*  I  regard  this  dictionary  as  very  good, 
especially  when  you  can  not  get  any  other," 

These  incidents,  though  unimportant,  help  us  to 
appreciate  the  character  of  the  critical  and  independ- 
ent youth. 


:1, 


EARLY  UFE. 


17 


The  following  cxiimplo  of  the  boy's  ingenuity  is 
also  worth  mentioning  : 

In  1870  a  brotlicr-in-law  gave  him  a  small,  cheap 
clock,  about  four  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  which 
ho  at  once  adapted  to  the  puri)ose  of  waking  himself 
in  the  morning.  After  joining  the  slats  of  his  bed  to- 
gether with  battens,  he  sawed  them  through  in  tho 
middle  and  hinged  the  parts.  That  half  of  the  ar- 
rangement which  was  at  tho  head  of  the  bed  was 
supported  only  by  a  single  prop.  A  minute  collar  of 
lead  was  supported  by  one  of  tho  hands  of  the  clock. 
At  the  proper  time  the  lead  slipped  from  the  hand 
automatically,  and,  in  falling,  set  in  motion  a  system 
of  levers  which  were  connected  with  the  prop  by  a 
string.  Thus,  with  unfailing  regularity,  the  prop 
was  jerked  from  its  place,  and  the  young  occupant  of 
the  bed  was  pitched  headlong  to  the  floor  among  his 
pillows  and  bolster.  When  he  tired  of  this  apparatus, 
it  became  his  custom  at  night  to  hitch  a  string  around 
his  foot,  the  end  of  the  string  being  passed  out  of 
the  window  and  allowed  to  trail  down  to  the  kitchen- 
door.  At  a  definite  time  in  the  morning,  previously 
ordered,  the  colored  cook  pulled  the  string  until  she 
received  intimation  of  a  successful  result. 

In  the  hope  of  finding  more  congenial  employ- 
ment, young  Lockwood  now  fixed  his  mind  on  engi- 
neer work  in  connection  with  railroads.  He  joined  a 
corps  on  the  Texas  and  Pacific  Railroad  line,  and  went 
to  the  northeastern  corner  of  the  State  of  Texas, 
where,  for  four  months,  he  drove  pegs  and  cut  down 
bushes  in  the  virgin  wilderness,  which  employment 


18 


FARTUEST  NORTU. 


was  only  terminated  by  the  fuiluro  of  the  company  to 
go  on  with  its  enterprise.  What  v/ith  tlio  rough  peo- 
ple with  wliom  ho  was  compelled  to  associate,  the 
hard  faro  at  the  rude  taverns,  and  a  severe  attack  of 
sickness,  he  had  a  very  disagreeable  experience,  which 
was  enhanced  by  the  non-payment  of  wages  by  the 
company,  and  by  the  temporary  loss  of  the  spare 
money  furnished  by  his  father,  which  was  taken  from 
him  by  the  rascality  of  a  pretended  friend,  an  em- 
ploy6  of  the  railroad  company.  By  careful  financial 
engineering,  he  managed  to  leave  the  wilderness  of 
Texas,  went  to  Shreveport,  and  thence  to  New  Or- 
leans, where  he  took  a  steamer  for  Cincinnati,  and  on 
this  trip  he  met  with  one  small  bit  of  good  fortune. 
Owing  to  his  limited  means  he  contracted  with  the 
captain  of  the  steamer  that  he  should  be  carried  to 
Cincinnati,  0.,  for  a  specific  sum,  all  his  meals  to  be 
included  in  the  passage-money.  It  so  happened,  how- 
ever, that  the  steamer  was  detained  by  floating  ice 
for  three  weeks,  but  this  caused  no  detriment  to  the 
traveler's  pocket,  as  time  was  not  "nominated  in 
the  bond."  About  eleven  years  after  that  experience, 
the  same  traveler  was  fighting  his  way  through  the 
ice  of  the  Arctic  seas  and  enduring  the  horrors  of 
Cape  Sabine,  finding  it  difiicult  to  secure  necessary 
rations  at  any  price  or  of  any  quality. 

On  reaching  home,  he  began  the  study  of  book- 
keeping with  a  view  to  the  civil  service.  With  others, 
he  was  examined  for  a  position  in  the  Treasury  De- 
partment. He  passed  the  examination  with  credit, 
and  received  a  mark  much  above  the  number  required 


EARLY  LIFE. 


19 


for  passing,  but,  wlicii  tlic  ofTicc-niark  was  thrown  in, 
as  was  then  tlie  custom,  liis  average  was  reduced,  and 
those  who  liad  personal  inlluencc  and  understood  tho 
*'  tricks  of  the  trade  "  became  the  successful  appli- 
cants. 


I 

I 

I 


1 . 


.I 


II. 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  ARIZONA. 

After  finding  that  farming  and  railroad  engineer- 
ing were  not  exactly  the  employments  he  had  fancied 
them  to  he,  young  Lockwood  resumed  his  studies 
under  the  direction  of  his  father.  Not  long  after- 
ward, however,  he  was  seized  with  the  idea  of  entering 
the  army,  and,  at  the  very  outset  of  this  venture  for 
a  useful  life,  he  was  met  with  a  blending  of  good  and 
bad  fortune.  Securing  the  influence  of  many  friends, 
he  made  a  successful  appeal  i  the  President  and  the 
War  Department.  He  received  orders  for  an  exami- 
nation before  the  proper  tribunal,  and,  out  of  thirty- 
eight  young  men  who  were  examined  in  Washington, 
he  passed  No.  1.  He  also  had  a  higher  mark  than 
any  of  those  examined  in  other  places  at  the  same 
time ;  hence  he  was  entitled  to  the  highest  commis- 
sion as  second  lieutenant,  and  at  one  time  it  was  re- 
solved to  give  it  to  him ;  but,  as  the  examinations 
were  conducted  in  different  places  and  before  different 
boards,  it  was  decided  to  settle  the  rank  of  the  ap- 
plicants by  lot,  and  Lockwood's  number  was  forty, 
instead  of  one  to  which  he  was  justly  entitled.  He 
was,  however,  promised  a  crack  regiment,  and  hence 
became  second  lieutenant  in  the  Twenty-third  In- 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  ARIZONA. 


21 


fantry,  then  commanded  by  two  officers  who  had 
gained  distinction  in  the  late  war — Colonel  Jefferson 
C.  Dayis  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  George  Crook.  He 
soon  after  joined  the  recruiting  station  at  New  York 
for  instruction. 

The  few  letters  that  Lieutenant  Lockwood  wrote 
home  from  New  York  contained  very  graphic  pictures 
of  what  he  there  observed.  His  reception  at  the  re- 
cruiting-station was  most  cordial,  one  of  the  first 
things  done  there  by  the  recruiting-officers,  to  his 
surprise,  being  to  bring  forth  a  demijohn  of  whisky  ; 
but  from  this  hospitality  he  begged  to  be  excused,  only 
one  or  two  other  young  men  following  his  example. 

After  a  service  of  several  weeks  at  the  recruiting- 
station  in  New  York,  he  conducted  recruits  to  the 
Territory  of  Arizona  by  the  way  of  Panama.  The 
party  left  New  York  in  November,  1873,  and,  on 
reaching  San  Francisco,  went  by  steamer  to  Fort 
Yuma,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  River,  and 
thence  marched  over  the  rugged  and  dusty  plains  of 
Arizona  to  McDowell  Post,  a  distance  of  more  than 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  the  interior. 

From  the  few  letters  that  he  wrote  respecting  his 
trip  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco,  we  gather  the 
following  items : 

"  Aspinwall  is  a  dirty,  sandy  town,  of  no  architect- 
ural pretensions.  I  cannot  better  describe  it  tlian 
by  asking  you  to  imagine  Lockwood ville  *  with  a  lot 
of  palm-  and  cocoanut-trees  growing  in  the  vacant 
lots,  plenty  of  the  sand  and  filth  aforesaid,  all  the 

*  A  suburb  of  Annapolis. 


.1'  'i 


22 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


i      I 


darkies  of  Annapolis  sauntering  around,  plenty  of 
children  and  many  dogs,  pigs,  etc.  However,  I  must 
do  Aspinwall  justice — it  has  a  neat  little  church,  a 
marble  monument  erected  to  some  of  its  chief  bene- 
factors, and,  what  I  sliould  call,  a  remarkably  fine 
statue  of  Columbus,  in  bronze.  It  has  an  enormous 
trade  passing  through  it,  from  oup  ocean  to  the  other, 
and  is  really  a  place  of  great  importance  to  the  mer- 
cantile world." 

"  "We  reached  Panama  between  four  and  five  in 
the  afternoon,  after  a  very  interesting  ride  across  the 
country,  and  were  immediately  em  barked  for  the  Con- 
stitution— which  lay  two  miles  from  shore — so  that 
I  had  no  opportunity  of  seeing  Panama,  except  from 
the  water.  The  ship  left  during  the  evening,  and 
ever  since  has  been  *  plowing  the  angry  main'  toward 
San  Francisco,  excepting  when  stopping  at  some  of 
the  towns  along  the  coast.  We  have  seen  several  of 
these,  and  they  are  all  of  one  type,  that  of  Aspinwall, 
tliough  on  a  much  smaller  scale.  Some  that  I  saw 
had  not  half  a  dozen  wooden  houses,  but  consisted 
merely  of  reed-huts  covered  with  straw.  One  of  these 
— Mazatlan — claims  to  have  twenty  thousand  inhab- 
itants, but  does  not  appear  to  have  more  than  one 
tenth  of  that  number.  All  the  tropical  fruits  were 
abundant  at  these  places,  and  could  be  pUichased  for 
a  trifle.  The  Constitution  is  a  side-wheeler  of  four 
thousand  tons,  and  has  little  motion,  and,  while  sea- 
sickers  are  abundant,  I  am  not  one  of  them.  I  have 
gained  ten  pounds,  and  now  weigh  one  hundred  and 
sixty-one." 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  ARIZONA. 


23 


Lockwood's  stay  in  San  Francisco  was  too  brief  to 
afford  him  much  opportunity  for  observation,  but 
here  is  what  he  said  of  the  Chinese  :  "  I  visited  China- 
town this  evening,  and  saw  the  Celestials  in  all  their 
glory.  I  saw  many  strange  and  amusing  sights  in  their 
stores  and  shops  and  along  their  streets,  as  they  are 
very  slow  in  adopting  civilized  customs,  I  send  along 
with  this  some  Chinese  pictures  which  I  purchased. 
I  am  very  much  pleased  with  San  Francisco,  and  shall 
leave  it  with  many  regrets.  A  walk  through  the  Chi- 
nese quarter  is  like  a  visit  to  some  Chinese  city  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Pacific." 

The  few  events  of  his  trip  along  the  coast  to  Yuma 
were  to  this  effect :  Soon  after  leaving  the  Golden 
Gate,  he  experienced  a  storm  that  was  far  from  pacific 
in  its  character,  far  worse  than  any  he  had  witnessed 
since  leaving  New  York  ;  he  visited  Magdalena  Bay, 
which  impressed  him  as  a  barren,  miserable  place, 
chiefly  noted  for  its  want  of  houses,  and  yet  of  some 
importance  as  the  shipping  port  of  a  dye-wood  found  in 
that  region ;  he  also  stopped  at  Carmen  Island,  where 
large  quantities  of  salt  were  found  in  the  dry  bed  of  a 
lake,  and  at  Cape  St.  Lucas,  but  brought  away  no 
favorable  impressions  from  any  of  these  remote  places. 
"With  Yuma  City  he  was  better  pleased,  describing 
its  houses  as  small,  one-story  affairs,  built  of  adobe, 
more  Mexican  than  American  in  character,  and  its 
streets  as  far  more  dusty  than  those  of  "Washington 
City ;  and  the  mountains  surrounding  the  city  as 
very  imposing.  The  Colorado  reminded  him  of  the 
Red  River — the  channel  winding  and  running  be- 


m 


24 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


tween  great  mud-flats  and  islands,  all  constantly 
changing,  and  abounding  in  many  kinds  of  water- 
fowl. He  was  interested  in  the  Indian  inhalitants, 
whom  he  pitied  for  their  poverty  and  degradation ; 
occasionally  seeing  a  number  of  squaws  reclining  like 
quadrupeds  on  the  mud-flats  or  in  front  of  tlieir  tiny 
oval  huts. 

The  sojourn  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  Arizona 
lasted  into  the  summer  of  1874,  and  from  the  letters 
which  he  wrote  home  from  Post  McDowell  may  be 
gathered  some  interesting  particulars,  illustrating  his 
habits  of  close  observation  in  regard  to  men  and 
events. 

His  journey  from  Fort  Yuma  to  Camp  McDowell 
was  full  of  interest  and  was  greatly  enjoyed.  He  had 
for  companions  two  brother  officers  and  three  ladies  ; 
traveled  by  ambulance,  making  marches  of  only  about 
fifteen  miles ;  camped  out  every  night,  Lockwood 
himself  sleeping  on  the  ground  outside.  As  the  coun- 
try was  very  desolate  and  barren,  they  traveled  gen- 
erally along  the  valley  of  the  Gila,  but  their  last 
march  was  over  desert  land  forty-five  miles  wide. 
They  saw  many  relics  along  the  route,  mounds,  ruins, 
and  immense  ditches  for  irrigation.  One  immense 
pile  of  rocks,  called  the  Painted  Rocks,  was  entirely 
covered  with  pictures  of  lizards,  Indians,  beasts,  and 
birds — supposed  to  represent  a  great  battle  in  which 
the  Apaches  conquered  the  Maricopas.  There  were 
also  along  the  road  graves  of  men  murdered  by  the 
Indians.  One  grave,  near  Gila  Bend,  was  of  a  man 
named  Lumley,  a  station-keeper,  murdered  by  two 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  ARIZONA. 


25 


Mexicans — his  successor  exhibited  a  knife,  used  by 
one  of  the  murderers,  which  had  been  found,  and  he 
pointed  out  the  spot  where  Judge  Lynch  had  disposed 
of  the  only  criminal  that  happened  to  be  captured. 
While  the  travelers  did  not  spend  any  money  at  hotels, 
they  were  obliged  to  pay  from  twenty  to  thirty  dollars 
for  being  ferried  across  the  Gila  and  Salt  Rivers  at 
different  points. 

In  one  of  his  letters,  written  to  his  sister  after 
the  rainy  season,  and  soon  after  his  arrival  at  Camp 
McDowell,  young  Lock  wood  says  :  **  I  wish  you  could 
see  the  pretty  flowers  around  here ;  they  are  prin- 
cipally yellow  and  red,  and  each  kind  grows  by  itself. 
They  grow  so  close  together  that  the  ground  is  cov- 
ered a?,  with  a  carpet.  To  the  west  of  this  post  there 
is  a  wide  plain  covered  with  these  flowers.  There  is 
also  a  species  of  cactus  called  the  Suwarrow,  which 
grows  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high — a  sort  of  tree  with- 
out branches,  but  covered  with  thorns ;  the  outside 
of  this  tree  is  of  a  green  color  and  nearly  as  soft  as 
young  asparagus,  but  Inside  it  has  a  frame  of  wood. 
These  are  all  over  the  plain,  in  fact  all  over  Arizona. 
I  often  walk  out  here  after  dinner  with  a  large  dog 
that  belongs  to  one  of  the  officers,  and  start  up  the 
rabbits — great  big  Jack-rabbits,  as  they  are  called — 
as  large  as  a  small  dog.  They  can  run  very  fast, 
faster  than  any  dog  except  a  hound.  Among  other 
curiosities  about  here  are  rattlesnakes  and  lizards — 
the  lizards  as  common  as  flies  ;  also  crows  as  big  as 
hens  and  almost  as  tame.  The  post  is  entirely  sur- 
rounded by  mountains."    By  way  of  contrast  to  this 


« 'i 


.^ 


II 


h  > 


I 


26 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


pleasing  prospect,  in  another  letter  ho  gives  the  par- 
ticulars of  the  murder  of  two  men  by  the  Indians 
within  twelve  miles  of  the  garrison,  their  bodies  hav- 
ing been  fearfully  mutilated.  "I  am  still  in  the 
land  of  the  finite  and  material," he  writes,  "and  the 
Apaches  have  not  yet  disturbed  the  arrangement  of 
my  back  hair  ;  in  short,  I  am  alive  and  kicking." 

On  the  14th  of  May,  Lockwood  writes  that  "  there 
has  been  nothing  new  at  the  post  except  the  arrival  of 
Lieutenant  Schuyler,  Fifth  Cavalry.  He  has  been 
out  on  a  scout  for  several  months  past,  dropping  in  at 
various  posts  now  and  then.  He  reports  that  he  came 
upon  the  Apaches  southeast  of  here,  killed  twelve  and 
took  fourteen  prisoners.  He  is  accompanied  by  Dr. 
Corbasier  and  a  party  of  thirty-one  soldiers  and 
eighty-one  Indian  scouts.  These  scouts  are  composed 
of  Apache-Mojave,  Tonto-Apaches,  and  other  tribes, 
closely  allied  to  the  Apaches  proper.  It  seems  strange 
that  they  are  thus  willing  to  join  the  enemy  in  ex- 
terminating their  brethren  ;  but  such  is  their  na- 
ture. They  are  hardly  superior  to  the  beasts,  except 
in  shape,  and  even  there  the  line  of  demarkation  is 
not  very  distinct.  The  Pimos,  to  the  number  of  one 
hundred  or  more,  were  here  about  a  week  ago,  on 
their  way  to  punish  the  Apaches  for  stealing  some 
stock  from  them.  When  they  returned,  they  reported 
the  killing  of  quite  a  number  of  their  foes — some  six- 
teen or  more — and  taking  many  prisoners.  Schuy- 
ler's party  confirm  the  report ;  they  came  across  the 
camp  of  the  Apaches,  and  the  doctor  said  he  counted 
a  large  number  of  slain.     The  Pimos  surprised  the 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  ARIZONA. 


27 


'^ 


^ 


Apaches  when  asleep  and  almost  exterminated  them. 
Tliey  were  armed  with  war-clubs,  and  of  course  man- 
pled  their  bodies  horribly.  When  found  their  heads 
were  all  beaten  in,  and  their  bodies  stuck  full  of  ar- 
rows and  partially  burned.  The  doctor  says  it  was 
the  most  sickening  sight  he  eyer  beheld.  The  Apache 
bunds,  oflE  their  reservations,  are  fast  becoming  ex- 
terminated, over  a  thousand  having  been  killed  dur- 
ing the  last  winter.  General  Crook  will  not  allow 
them  to  return  to  their  reservations  unless  they  bring 
the  heads  of  several  of  the  ringleaders  in  the  late 
outbreak." 

In  another  place,  after  alluding  to  the  extravagant 
accounts  published  about  Arizona,  he  says :  *'  One 
would  suppose,  from  reading  the  pamphlet  I  send 
you,  that  Arizona  is  a  fine  agricultural  country — which 
is  absurd  ;  and  that  it  contains  many  flourishing 
cities  and  towns,  whereas  even  the  river-bottoms  re- 
quire irrigation,  and  the  *  cities '  are  n.crely  the  nuclei 
of  towns." 

On  one  occasion,  after  alluding  to  his  enjoyment 
of  the  newspapers  sent  him  from  home,  and  to  the 
early  transfer  of  his  regiment,  he  says:  "It  would 
probably  have  been  removed  this  spring  but  for  the 
financial  panic  and  other  commercial  disasters.  I 
suppose  if  the  rest  of  the  year  goes  by  prosperously, 
and  nothing  occurs  to  prolong  the  gingerly,  penny- 
wise,  pound-foolish  policy  of  Congress  called  econo- 
my (?),  that  the  Twenty-third  will  probably  be  re- 
moved next  spring  or  fall."  And  again,  he  continues  : 
"Grant  appears  to  have  obtained  great  credit  by  his 


28 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I 


1 


I 


h    I 


veto  of  the  Inflation  Bill.  How  Congress  could  pass 
a  bill  which  scorns  to  be  unacceptable  and  repugnant 
to  the  whole  people,  I  can  not  understand." 

Alluding  a  second  time  to  the  pleasing  character- 
istics of  frontier  life,  he  tells  his  father  that  "a 
party  of  Indian  scouts  arrived  here  yesterday  from 
Schuyler's  command.  They  brought  the  news  that 
the  lieutenant  had  jumped  the  Indians  at  Four  Peaks — 
a  high  mountain,  forty  miles  off — killed  eighteen  and 
captured  six.  The  party  brought  in  a  wounded  scout, 
shot  through  the  head,  who  is  now  in  the  hospital. 
He  was  the  only  one  wounded  in  the  fight,  or  rather 
slaughter,  for  these  Indians  rarely  fight  a  party  of  any 
size.  I  suppose  these  Arizona  tribes  are  the  most  de- 
graded, cowardly,  and  despicable  savages  in  the  coun- 
try. Schuyler,  as  I  understand,  generally  sweeps  a 
breadth  of  country  fifty  miles  across,  by  means  of 
flanking-parties  on  the  right  and  left,  and  has  been 
quite  successful." 

In  speaking  of  his  duties  at  the  post,  he  says  :  "  I 
am  officer-of-the-day  every  other  day ;  I  mount  the 
guard  every  morning,  attend  all  roll-calls,  accompany 
the  captain  in  his  inspection  of  quarters  every  morn- 
ing, and  afterward  recite  tactics.  I  also  am  present 
with  him  at  company-drill  every  evening,  command 
the  company  at  Sunday  morning  inspection,  sit  on 
boards  of  survey  and  perform  other  irregular  duties." 

After  announcing  the  arrival  of  the  paymaster  at 
the  post,  and  alluding  to  expenses,  he  says:  "  Servants 
in  this  country  are  paid  enormously.  The  post-trader 
pays  his  Chinese  cook  thirty  dollars  per  month,  and 


■w    ! 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  ARIZONA. 


29 


aid  pass 
pugnant 

aractcr- 
hat  "a 
ly  from 
ws  that 
Peaks — 
een  and 
i  scout, 
ospital. 
r  rather 
Y  of  auy 
lost  de- 
e  coun- 
veeps  a 
3ans  of 
as  been 

ys:  "I 
mt  the 
►mpany 

morn- 
present 
nmand 

sit  on 
uties." 
ister  at 

rvants 
-trader 
h,  and 


has  paid  as  high  as  ono  hundred  dollars.  Officers  in 
Arizona  arc  compelled  from  necessity  to  employ  sol- 
diers in  this  capacity,  though  contrary  to  the  regula- 
tions." 

In  one  of  his  letters,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  gives 
his  opinion  about  some  of  his  father's  landed  property, 
and  then  goes  on  after  this  fashion  :  **The  old  farm 
has  additional  charms  for  me  now,  after  living  in  Ari- 
zona, and  I  have  come  to  think  that  there  are  many 
worse  places.  Does  distance  lend  enchantment  to  tho 
view  ?  or  what  is  it  ?  I  often  long  after  some  of  tho 
delicious  peaches  and  other  fruit  that  the  much-abused 
farm  produces  in  such  abundance.  Ilowever,  if  you 
can  dispose  of  the  farm  as  you  suggest,  it  will,  no 
doubt,  be  for  the  best,  as  the  Lockwood  family  have 
become  so  high-toned  that  I  am  afraid  they  will  never 
stoop  (?)  to  live  on  a  farm  and  hQcomo  grangers  " 

In  one  of  his  letters  written  about  this  date,  he 
makes  the  following  remark  respecting  his  education 
at  Annapolis :  "I  don't  think  I  care  about  being 
present  at  tho  meeting  of  the  alumni  of  my  Alma 
Mater^  or,  what  she  would  be  more  pleased  with,  con- 
tributing anything  in  the  way  of  money.  Enough  has 
been  thrown  away  in  teaching  me  what  has  never  been 
of  any  use.  However,  the  old  woman  has  my  good 
wishes." 

In  another  letter,  after  speaking  of  an  entertain- 
ment he  had  attended,  he  said  :  "  I  don't  know  that 
I  should  have  enjoyed  it,  but  for  the  presence  of  a  very 
pretty  Spanish  girl  with  whom  I  fell  in  love ;  she 
danced  charmingly,  but  as  she  could  not  speak  a  word 


'    1 

1    '  ' 

jl        M 

i 
I 


i 


30 


FARTDEST  NORTH. 


of  English,  nor  I  a  word  of  Spanish,  our  conversation 
was  somewhat  limited." 

On  the  4th  of  July  when  arrangements  were  com- 
menced for  removing  the  Twenty-third  Regiment  to 
Yuma,  tho  lieutenant  thus  touches  upon  the  national 
anniversary:  *'I  have  celebrated  tho  day  by  being 
very  busy  writing  up  the  proceedings  of  a  board  of  sur- 
vey, and  have  a  like  job  on  my  hands  for  to-morrow  ; 
indeed,  I  shall  bo  fully  employed  now  till  we  leave. 
Some  of  the  men,  however,  have  been  otherwise  cm- 
ployed,  viz.,  in  parading  before  the  guard-house  with 
logs  of  wood  on  their  backs,  as  the  reward  of  a 
drunken  frolic.  Our  march  to  Fort  Yuma  will 
doubtless  be  very  disagreeable,  and  for  two  weeks 
we  shall  have  dust  and  heat  together  with  the  fatigue 
of  travel ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  daily  march 
will  not  be  more  than  fifteen  miles,  and  as  we  shall 
be  well  provided,  I  can't  say  that  I  look  forward 
to  it  with  much  dread.  The  wife  of  our  captain  is 
even  now  interesting  herself  in  the  culinary  arrange- 
ments, so  I  presume  the  vitals  will  be  good."  From 
the  time  of  his  uttering  this  amusing  pun  until  the 
following  September,  the  letters  of  young  Lockwood 
give  us  no  incidents  of  special  interest,  and  we  now 
follow  him  into  the  State  of  Nebraska,  his  regiment 
having  been  assigned  to  tlie  favorite  post  of  Omaha. 


III. 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  NEBRASKA.   . 

Having  entered  upon  duty  at  the  barracks  of 
Omaha,  he  seems  to  have  made  himself  espccialiy  use- 
ful there,  while  enjoying  some  of  the  comforts  of  civ- 
ilization, including  good  society.  On  the  25th  of 
September,  he  wrote  that  ho  had  been  busy  for  a  week 
as  the  recorder  of  a  court-martial.  **  Wo  settled  nine 
cases,  and,  while  we  now  stand  adjourned  sine  die,  I 
suppose  the  court  will  soon  be  reconvened  to  try  half 
a  dozen  more  men  against  whom  charges  have  been 
preferred.  There  have  been,  since  my  arrival  here,  as 
many  as  sixty  men  in  the  guard-house,  and  courts-mar- 
tial are  the  order  of  the  day.  I  have  to  attend  drills, 
etc.,  every  day,  and  hence  my  leisure  and  opportunities 
for  visiting  the  town  have  been  limited.  Ilowever,  I 
did  go  last  night  to  a  concert  in  town  given  for  the 
benefit  of  the  grasshopper  sufferers,  several  of  these 
sufferers  from  the  country  being  present.  You  can 
not  '"oalize  what  a  nuisance  these  insects  are  in  this 
country.  I  have  not  yet  seen  them  in  any  numbers, 
or  the  effects  of  their  ravages,  but  I  am  told  they 
sometimes  actually  stop  the  railway-trains.  The  in- 
credible number  of  bed-bugs  in  this  country  is  anotlier 
curious  fact.    I  sleep  so  soundly  that  they  do  not  dis- 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I 

i;' 


it 


i 


turb  mo.  Thoy  infest  every  house  at  the  post,  and 
they  are  also  numerous  in  the  city,  tlio  fences  between 
hero  and  there  being  painted  in  many  places,  *  Go  to 
{Smith's  for  the  great  bed-bug  buster/ "  lie  became 
a  favorite  in  the  refined  society  of  Omaha,  at  that 
time  on  the  confines  of  civilization,  but  appearing  to 
him  like  a  bit  of  New  York  city  cut  off  and  set  down 
in  tho  wilderness,  where,  only  a  few  years  before,  the 
buffalo  ranged  in  his  native  freedom.  During  his 
residence  at  Omaha,  young  Lockwood  was  on  tho 
most  friendly  terms  with  all  his  fellow-officers,  with 
one  exception.  After  giving  his  father  a  very  manly 
account  of  that  trouble,  ho  writes  a  paragraph  about 
himself  in  these  words:  "With  regard  to  myself,  I 
find  this  army-life  about  what  I  expected.  It  has  its 
pleasures  and  its  crosses.  I  should  prefer  the  cavalry 
to  the  infantry,  and  am  sorry  I  did  not  apply  for  that 
arm  of  the  service.  I  should  like  to  remain  in  tho 
army  two  or  three  years  longe  ,  I  think,  and  yet, 
with  a  good  opening,  might  do  better  in  civil  life. 
Promotion  is  very  slow,  and  tho  accumulation  of  any- 
thing is  not  easy.  These,  of  course,  are  rudo  impres- 
sions and  but  half  formed,  but,  as  you  ask  for  impres- 
sions, I  feel  bound  to  give  them  just  as  they  are.  I 
have  not  been  in  the  army  long  enough  to  rise,  nor 
have  I  had  the  opportunity  to  gain  any  particular 
reputation,  but  suppose  mine  is  as  good  as  the  average 
— that  is,  I  think  I  have  displayed  as  much  aptitude 
for  my  profession  as  is  generally  exhibited  by  men  of 
average  ability,  for  of  such  I  regard  myself — perhaps 
below  the  average.    I  hope  this  peroration  will  answer 


AUMY-LIFE  IN  NEDRASKA. 


Ii3 


your  inquiries,  tiiid  prove  satisfactory  in  that  respect. 
Excuse  tiio  necessary  cpjotism.  1  will  thankfully  re- 
ceive any  advice  or  corrections  which  the  reading  of 
this,  or  your  accjuaintanco  with  my  characteristics, 
may  suggest.  I  feel  as  though  I  had  written  a  lot  of? 
foolishness  ;  if  you  think  so,  please  excuse." 

To  the  writer  of  this  personal  history,  it  seems  as 
if  such  sentiments  as  the  above  could  come  only  from 
a  young  man  endowed  with  the  highest  instincts  of 
ambition,  honor,  and  true  manhood,  and  can  not  but 
be  considered,  with  others  of  like  character,  as  a  suit- 
able passport  into  the  land  of  Odin  and  the  glories  of 
Valhalla. 

During  his  stay  at  Omaha,  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
was  detailed  by  General  Ord,  the  commanding  ofliccr, 
to  visit  those  counties  of  Nebraska  where  grasshoppers 
had  destroyed  the  crops,  for  the  purpose  of  determin- 
ing to  whom  contributions  which  had  been  sent  to 
the  general  should  be  given.  In  this  journey  of  sev- 
eral hundred  miles,  made  in  the  coldest  weather,  he 
visited  the  several  county  towns,  met  the  citizens, 
and  afterward  laid  before  the  general  such  testimony 
as  to  the  destitute,  that  the  bounty  was  distributed  to 
the  satisfaction  of  all.  While  on  this  duty,  he  traveled 
ninety  miles  in  twenty-four  hours.  The  county  people 
with  whom  he  conducted  business,  he  designated  as 
''Grasshoppers."  He  greatly  enjoyed  the  prairie 
scenery  through  which  he  passed,  especially  the  valley 
of  the  Blue. 

On  the  approach  of  Christmas  at  Omaha,  our 
young  friend  had  an  attack  of  chills  and  fever,  which 


"I! 


34 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


^1 


:l     li 


sent  him  to  his  bed.  After  deploring  that  he  could 
not  perform  his  duties  on  the  pending  court-martial, 
he  gives  us  this  holiday  information  :  "  Yesterday 
was  Christmas,  and  I  am  glad  that  the  day  comes 
but  once  a  year.  With  a  large  party  I  was  occupied 
until  lato  in  the  afternoon  making  the  rounds  of  the 
many  houses  here  at  the  post.  In  the  evening,  I  ate 
a  fine  dinner  at  General  Ord's,  and  on  top  of  that, 
danced  in  the  parlor  until  eleven  or  twelve  o'clock, 
and,  as  a  consequence,  am  coming  on  as  officer  of  the 
guard  to-day  with  a  most  gorgeous  headache.  So  much 
for  Christmas.  I  have  received  two  or  three  presents, 
but  have  made  none  myself,  from  want  of  funds.  I 
just  now  heard  a  tremendous  crash,  and,  on  going 
out,  found  a  fine  lunch,  sent  by  Mrs.  Ord,  scattered 
on  the  ground,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  debris  of 
broken  glass  and  china,  the  unfortunate  bearer,  who 
had  slipped  and  fallen  on  the  ice  in  front  of  the  door. 
I  was  not  particularly  sorry  on  my  own  account,  as  I 
could  not  have  eaten  the  good  things  'anyhow.' 
Upon  the  whole,  Christmas  has  passed  away  as  it 
usually  does,  pleasantly,  though  at  the  expense  of 
many  unfortunate  turkeys.  I  am  sorry  I  could  not 
send  home  any  presents,  my  pecuniary  affairs  being 
in  a  straitened  condition.  I  should  like  very  much  to 
be  at  home  about  this  time.  I  often  wish  I  could  hear 
Lidie  and  Anna  sing,  although  I  suppose  I  would  find 
the  girls,  including  Julia  and  Mary,  much  changed." 
Remembering  young  Lockwood's  remarks  about 
whisky-drinking  in  New  York,  the  following  state- 
ment is  worth  quoting :  "  Most  of  the  ladies  at  the 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  NEBLASKA. 


35 


post  received  visitors  on  New-Year's-day,  either  sin- 
gly or  in  groups.  One  marked  feature  of  the  day  was 
the  general  absence  of  liquor,  its  place  being  supplied 
by  coffee,  chocolate,  and  other  refreshments  of  a  more 
solid  and  less  stimulating  character.  I  noticed  the 
same  thing  in  town,  or  rather  that  at  those  places 
where  I  saw  liquor,  the  ladies  were  less  urgent  than  is 
usually  the  case  in  pressing  it  upon  the  gentlemen. 
However,  there  is  less  drinking  at  this  post  than  at 
any  other  I  have  seen,  as  largo  as  it  is.  Although, 
with  few  exceptions,  all  drink  here,  it  is  done  quietly 
at  home  and  without  excess. " 

As  our  young  friend  had  narrowly  escaped  with 
his  life  from  drowning  at  Annapolis,  so  did  he  from 
the  pranks  of  an  unruly  horse  at  the  Omaha  Bar- 
racks. He  was  about  mounting  the  horse  for  a  ride, 
when  the  animal  started  on  the  run  before  he  could 
get  into  the  saddle,  when  he  was  thrown  forward 
upon  his  head.  The  trouble  was  owing  to  a  defect  in 
the  bridle.  In  accounting  for  his  escape,  he  remarked 
that  his  thick  head  was  what  sfcved  hib  life.  True  to 
his  native  pluck,  he  tackled  the  same  horse  a  number 
of  times  afterward,  until  the  animal — a  special  favor- 
ite— was  subdued. 

In  the  month  of  June,  1875,  it  would  seem  as  if 
something  like  homesickness  was  weighing  down  his 
spirits,  for  he  then  began  to  write  abu.:it  employment 
in  civil  life.  Not  that  he  disliked  the  army,  but  he 
longed  for  some  business  that  would  enable  him  to 
make  a  little  money.  He  thought  he  could  supply  a 
sufficient  amount  of  energy  to  prosecute  a  commercial 


J' 


86 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


^ 


i 


II  iiii 


venture.  He  felt  that  there  was  a  great  difference 
between  the  roads  that  lead  to  wealth  and  to  military 
glory.  If  his  father  should  chance  to  see  an  opening 
that  might  give  him  a  fortune  in  a  few  days  at  the 
expense  of  a  few  hundred  dollars  or  some  hard  work, 
he  wanted  to  be  promptly  notified,  lie  broached 
these  business  ideas  at  that  time  merely  for  the  sake 
of  having  a  subject  for  discussion  when  permitted  to 
visit  his  home. 

The  life  at  the  Omaha  garrison,  during  the  sum- 
mer of  1875,  was  camfortable  but  monotonous.  The 
faithfulness  with  which  the  young  officer  correspond- 
ed with  his  parents  is  eminently  characteristic  of  a 
dutiful  son.  When  not  writing  about  his  surround- 
ings and  daily  duties,  or  sketching  the  character  of 
his  associates,  he  ventured  to  discuss  business  matters 
with  his  father,  frequently  volunteering  a  bit  of  ad- 
vice. He  often  alluded  to  the  Annapolis  farm  and 
to  people  and  events  connected  with  Georgetown, 
now  a  part  of  Washington  City,  where  he  expected 
the  family  to  remain  permanently.  On  every  sub- 
ject discussed,  he  manifested  a  clear  head,  and  en- 
livened his  more  serious  talk  with  an  occasional  joke, 
ior  which  he  seemed  to  have  a  fondness.  In  express- 
ing his  opinions  on  men  and  things,  it  seemed  impos- 
sible for  him  to  hesitate  or  equivocate ;  he  always 
went  directly  to  the  point,  and,  though  charitable, 
ho  could  not  refrain  from  looking-  out  for  the  de- 
m.  nds  of  justice,  as,  for  example,  when  alluding  to 
the  death  of  a  man  who  had  been  untrue  to  himself 
and  friends,  he  said  "  to  die  was  about  the  best  thing 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  NEBRASKA. 


37 


of 


he  could  do.'*  As  to  his  jokes,  they  were  not  con- 
fined to  his  private  letters,  as  will  be  shown  by  one 
of  them  practiced  upon  the  post  trader  during  a  dull 
period  in  the  garrison.  The  trader  in  question,  a 
young  fellow,  had  removed  the  balls  from  the  pistol 
of  one  of  his  clerks,  with  the  intention  of  playing  a 
ghostly  trick  upon  him  that  night.  He  told  Lockwood 
and  another  friend  of  his  intention,  and  they  deter- 
mined to  turn  the  tables  upon  the  trader.  They  noti- 
fied the  clerk,  and  at  midnight  the  amateur  ghost  rose 
Irom  his  bed,  enveloped  himself  in  a  white  sheet,  and 
stole  softly  into  the  room  of  the  unsuspecting  clerk. 
Just  then  an  improvised  noiso  was  made  outside  the 
door,  when  the  clerk  seemingly  awoke  with  an  excla- 
mation of  terror  at  seeing  the  ghost.  The  report  of 
the  pistol  was  duly  followed  by  the  return  of  the  ball 
held  in  hand,  a  la  ghost,  but  immediately  after,  the 
poor  ghost  found  himself  completely  drenched  with  a 
bucket  of  water,  which  had  been  coolly  set  aside  for 
that  purpose.  At  this  unexpected  turn  of  affairs,  the 
trader  fled  in  the  greatest  consternation,  leaving  his 
"trade-mark"  behind,  and,  as  he  passed  out  of  the 
door,  received  a  second  pail  of  water  from  one  of  his 
ghostly  companions.  The  result  was  that  it  took  a 
long  time  for  him  to  dry  his  saturated  skin,  and  a 
much  longer  for  his  title  of  Mr.  Ghost  to  be  lost  by 
the  garrison  boys.  Not  long  after  the  above  incident, 
this  personage  found  that  there  was  not  "  the  ghost  of 
a  chance  "  of  his  continuing  in  business,  as  he  became 
insolvent  and  had  to  retire.  It  would  appear  that 
while  many  of  these  military  merchants  on  the  front- 


I 


88 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I    >'£!': 


-I'- 


•  'ii' ! 


iers  have  a  chance  to  make  fortunes,  those  who  are 
located  near  a  city  like  Omaha  find  it  diiOficult  to  make 
both  ends  meet  in  their  business  affairs. 

On  reading  the  proceedings  of  Congress  during 
the  winter  of  1875,  he  writes  to  his  father  as  follows  : 
**  Congress  seems  to  be  looking  around  for  some  scape- 
goat on  which  to  pile  the  odium  of  the  millions  legis- 
lated away,  and,  as  usual,  pitches  on  the  army.  It 
seems  to  be  the  opinion  here,  however,  that  no  reduc- 
tion will  take  place  this  winter.  If  Congressmen  con- 
sulted occasionally  others  than  the  staff-officers  living 
in  Washington  with  regard  to  military  affairs,  they 
might  find  out  the  true  whereabout  of  the  tremendous 
rat-hole  which  swallows  up  annually  the  sum  of  thirty- 
four  millions  of  dollars.  It  does  not  go  to  support 
the  army  proper,  but  to  support  that  enormous,  over- 
grown, expensive  adjunct  of  the  army,  the  staff, 
which,  created  merely  for  the  administration  of  the 
army,  now  masters  that  which  it  was  intended  to  sub- 
serve, and  has  become  superior  to  it  in  rank  and  influ- 
ence, and  in  everything  that  rank  and  influence  can 
bring.  But  Congress  seems  to  be  blind  to  the  fact 
that  expenditures  are  credited  to  the  army,  under  the 
army  appropriation  bill,  which  have  no  legitimate 
connection  with  it,  and  which  wcald  still  be  required 
if  no  army  existed.  Why  is  it  that  the  army  is  the 
perpetual  foot-ball  of  these  demagogues  ?  Is  it  thus, 
at  every  session,  to  be  bantered  about  by  those  who 
do  not  understand  the  requirements  of  the  country 
in  this  respect  ?  Is  not  the  causing  of  this  period- 
ical uncertainty  respecting  his  fate  the  most  pemi- 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  NEBRASKA. 


39 


cious  tiling  that  Congress  can  do  to  an  officer  ?  0 
consistency,  thou  art  a  jewel  I  IIow  is  it  that  tho 
navy  and  other  branches  of  the  public  service  are  not 
subject  to  this  constant  tinkering  ?  But  I  am  not  in 
Congress,  and  had  better  subside."  The  assertions 
here  made  can  not  be  controverted,  and,  coming  from 
a  young  man  who  had  but  recently  passed  his  major- 
ity, prove  him  to  be  the  possessor  of  very  substantial 
abilities.  He  also  expressed  decided  opinions  in  regard 
to  various  noted  officials  charged  with  improper  con- 
duct in  Washington  at  the  time  alluded  to,  all  of 
which  have  been  sustained  by  subsequent  develop- 
ments. 

Remembering  what  he  said  about  the  drinking 
customs  of  Omaha,  on  New-Year's-day,  1875,  it  is 
pleasant  have  him  record  the  fact,  on  the  2d  of 
January,  1876,  that  "the  most  noticeable  feature 
during  the  previous  day,  in  society,  was  the  entire 
absence,  at  most  houses,  of  any  intoxicating  liquors, 
and  that  he  did  not  see  a  case  of  drunkenness  during 
the  entire  day — a  thing  very  rare  even  in  the  cities  of 
the  East."  On  a  subsequent  occasion,  he  mentioiis 
the  fact  that,  when  one  of  his  sergeants  had  been 
drinking  to  excess,  he  put  him  in  arrest,  but  released 
him  the  next  day,  after  warning  him  of  the  conse- 
quences of  a  repetition  of  the  offense,  and  "preaching 
him  a  sermon  on  the  evils  of  intoxication,  moral,  men- 
tal, and  physical."  On  one  occasion,  when  his  father 
had  asked  how  he  spent  his  leisure  time  in  the  bar- 
racks, he  replied  that  he  read,  so  as  to  combine  pleas- 
ure with  profit,  played  on  his  flute,  and  studied  the 


A-\ 


4:0 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


i 

Pi 


art  of  shoi't-hand,  which  had  long  been  a  hobby  with 
him,  and  was  to  be  in  the  future  an  important  accom- 
plishment. In  an  effort  to  read  Draper's  "  Intellect- 
ual Development  of  Europe,"  he  could  only  manage 
about  one  half  of  the  work,  and  to  counteract  its 
dullness  resorted  to  a  novel,  **  The  Wandering  Jew." 
As  he  was  frequently  called  upon  to  act  as  recorder  of 
the  military  court,  he  found  his  knowledge  of  stenog- 
raphy very  useful  and  very  much  of  a  relaxation,  and, 
on  receiving  a  letter  from  one  of  his  sisters  which  was 
good  but  not  very  plainly  written,  he  said  that  he  had 
been  able  to  make  it  out  by  means  of  his  skill  in  short- 
hand writing.  As  to  his  studies,  he  had  formed  a 
regular  plan  for  prosecuting  them,  but  was  constantly 
interrupted  by  extra  official  duties.  Among  other 
things,  he  devoted  himself  to  the  German  language, 
and  subsequently  to  French,  and  attained  consider- 
able proficiency.  An  idea  of  his  habits  of  industry 
may  be  gathered  from  what  he  wrote  to  his  father, 
when  the  General  was  placed  on  the  retired  list  of  the 
navy  :  "So  you  are  retired  this  month.  You  ought 
to  open  an  office,  or  do  something  to  occupy  your 
mind.  Every  one  needs  something  in  the  way  of 
business  or  duty.  You  will  soon  get  tired  of  reading 
continuously."  On  the  approach  of  spring,  and  with 
the  expectation  of  obtaining  a  leave  of  absence  during 
the  coming  summer,  he  resumed  a  discussion  with 
his  father  about  leaving  the  army  for  civil  employ- 
ment. He  had  entered  it  well  posted  in  regard  to 
its  disadvantages,  and  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  hav- 
ing something  to  do.     lie  had  now  become  more 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  NEBRASKA. 


41 


deeply  impressed  than  before  that  promotion  was  so 
slow,  that  his  prospects  of  increased  rank  and  pay 
offered  no  inducements  to  any  young  man  of  energy 
and  industry,  qualities  which  he  certainly  possessed. 
He  was  not  then  ready  for  decisive  action,  but  he  was 
determined  to  support  himself,  and  would,  therefore, 
be  on  the  lookout  for  advantageous  prospects  in  some 
other  line  of  employment.  In  one  of  his  letters,  after 
commenting  upon  the  school  which  two  of  his  sisters 
were  attending,  he  gives  us  this  bit  of  experience : 
**  I  am  a  school-teacher  myself ;  my  pupils,  the  non- 
commissioned officers  of  the  company.  They  waste 
the  midnight  oil,  however,  only  in  loning  the  tactics. 
I  go  down  and  dilate  and  expatiate  very  profoundly 
on  the  reasons  and  logic  of  this  and  that.  This  is 
a  pleasant  school  to  have ;  the  authority  and  influ- 
ence of  the  officer  have  their  full  weight  in  the  or- 
dinary school-room  as  elsewhere  in  the  army."  In 
May,  1876,  after  giving  an  account  of  a  proposed 
demonstration,  under  General  Crook,  against  the 
Indians  on  the  Yellowstone,  he  thus  relieves  his 
mind:  "AVould  that  I  belonged  to  the  cavalry!  I 
like  motion,  action,  and  variety.  To  be  sure,  I 
would  rather  be  here  (in  Omaha)  than  where  the 
other  companies  are,  but  still  would  rather  be  in  the 
field  than  here."  In  June,  1876,  the  monotony  of 
his  life  was  relieved  by  an  order  to  take  some  con- 
victs to  the  State  prison  near  Fort  Leavenworth, 
which  he  described  as  the  largest  post  in  the  country, 
containing  the  post  proper,  the  department  head- 
quarters, and  the  military  prison.     The  State  prison 


II 


42 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


is  about  six  miles  from  the  town.  "  Ilere,"  he  writes, 
**are  sent  all  the  enlisted  men  who  are  dishonorably 
discharged,  convicted  of  theft,  or  other  not  puroly 
military  offenses.  The  inclosure  is  an  immense  yard, 
surrounded  by  a  high  stone  wall — the  building,  which 
is  on  one  side,  having  an  appearance  somewhat  like 
the  Smithsonian  Institution.  In  the  inclosure  are 
various  other  buildings,  each  one  used  as  a  workshop 
for  some  trade,  almost  all  the  common  trades  being 
represented.  The  prisoners,  numbering  about  five 
hundred,  are  together  in  the  daytime,  but  not  at 
night,  and  are  not  allowed  to  talk  with  each  other. 
It  was  from  this  prison  that  the  best  features  of  the 
new  military  prison  were  obtained,  the  board  of  ofii- 
cers  on  the  management  of  the  prison  at  Fort  Leaven- 
worth having  decided  it  to  be  the  best  one  to  imitate." 
In  the  autumn  of  187C,  when  he  was  granted  a 
leave  of  absence  to  visit  his  parents,  they  found  him 
in  personal  appearance  wonderfully  improved  and  de- 
veloped, the  boy  of  1873  having  become  a  handsome 
and  accomplished  gentleman.  He  was  not  slow,  as 
may  be  supposed,  in  making  h's  way  to  Philadelphia 
to  visit  the  Centennial  Exposition,  which  he  greatly 
enjoyed. 


IV. 

ARMY-LIFE  IN  KANSAS. 

During  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  absence  on  leave, 
his  regiment  was  transferred  to  Fort  Leavenworth, 
and  there  wo  find  him  early  in  1877,  and  for  about 
two  years  thereafter.  Of  course,  the  garrison  life  of 
an  officer,  in  times  of  peace,  is  somewhat  monotonous  ; 
but  the  letters  which  the  lieutenant  wrote  from  this 
station  contain  some  passages  which  are  interesting 
and  illustrate  his  character,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages.  Here  it  should  be  stated  that,  during 
his  sojourn  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  he  made  many 
pleasant  acquaintances,  which  ripened  into  friend- 
ship ;  among  them  being  the  widow  of  an  officer, 
with  whom  ho  boarded  for  some  time,  and  whoso 
friendship  he  particularly  valued. 

At  a  time  when  there  was  quite  a  rage  at  the  gar- 
rison for  private  theatricals,  one  of  the  superior  offi- 
cers took  the  liberty,  without  previous  consultation, 
of  putting  Lockwood  on  the  list  of  performers,  where- 
upon he  declined  the  honor,  as  ho  thought  Nature 
never  intended  him  for  a  star.  In  speaking  of  a  littlo 
difficulty  between  two  of  his  friends,  he  manifests  his 
love  of  fun  by  stating  that  one  of  them  had  denied  the 
allegation  and  defied  the  alligator.     Wlicn  commcnt- 


.{ 


1 


II 


44 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I'i! 


ing  upon  some  disagreeable  March  weather,  he  said, 
**  I  don't  think  the  ground-hog  has  seen  his  shadow, 
and  hence  the  latter  part  of  the  month  ought  to  be 
pleasant."  After  a  remark  on  the  proficiency  he  was 
making  in  the  study  of  French,  he  quietly  continues, 
"There  are  many  here  who  speak  it  'a  VAmericaine,* 
as  if  they  thought  that  *  the  chief  end  of  man.'" 

As  if  never  satisfied  with  his  acquirements,  ho 
writes  in  one  of  his  letters  as  follows :  **  My  latest 
hobby  is  telegraphing.  The  signal  officer  of  the  de- 
partment has  loaned  me  a  small  battery  and  an  instru- 
ment. We  have  put  up  the  wires  and  are  progressing 
well.  Telegraphy,  like  phonography,  is  easy  to  trans- 
mit after  some  little  practice ;  but  it  is  difficult  to 
recognize  the  sounds  as  they  come  over  the  wire,  and 
it  requires  as  much  practice  as  it  does  to  recognize  the 
phonographic  characters.  I  have  the  instrument  on 
the  table  before  me,  and  can  not  fail  to  gain  some  pro- 
ficiency at  any  rate." 

In  July,  1877,  when  the  strikers  and  rioters  were 
making  trouble  in  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  s  company  and  five  others  were  ordered  to  that 
city  on  duty.  After  their  arrival,  they  waited  in  daily 
expectation  of  mowing  down  the  mob,  but  there  was 
little  fighting,  as  the  police  and  militia  were  found 
to  be  amply  sufficient  to  subdue  all  disturbance.  He 
was  greatly  pleased  with  the  city  and  military  quarters 
of  St,  Louis,  and  felt  that  he  would  like  to  remain 
there  on  permanent  duty.  The  feature  which  pleased 
him  more  than  any  other  at  St.  Louis  was  a  private 
garden  of  about  fifty  acres,  exquisitely  planned,  and 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  KANSAS. 


45 


containing  tho  rarest  and  most  beautiful  flowers  and 
trees.  The  floral  display,  there,  he  thought  superior 
to  that  at  the  Centennial  Exposition.  The  owner,  a 
bachelor  named  Shaw,  nearly  eighty  years  of  age,  and 
a  man  of  enormous  wealth,  paid  out  yearly  in  ex- 
penses twenty-tivo  thousand  dollars.  At  the  garden 
residence  of  this  millionaire,  young  Lockwood  and  a 
friend  were  hospitably  entertained — a  wonderful  con- 
trast to  the  accommodations  at  a  beer-saloon,  near  the 
arsenal  gate,  where  the  army  officers  were  obliged  to 
take  their  meals  while  in  the  city.  Altogether  tho 
trip  was  pleasant,  but  too  cxpensiye  for  men  with 
limited  means.  On  their  return  to  Fort  Leaven- 
worth from  the  Eden-like  garden  of  St.  Louis,  they 
were  informed  of  Indian  troubles  in  Montana,  and 
startled  by  a  rumor  that  they  must  soon  be  off  upon 
a  hunt  for  Indians — illustrating  tho  vicissitudes  of 
army-life. 

It  was  about  this  time  that  a  specimen  of  Ameri- 
can royalty  visited  Fort  Leavenworth  with  his  daugh- 
ter, to  whom  young  Lockwood  had  an  opportunity  of 
being  polite.  This  was  a  great  cattle-man  from  Texas, 
who  was  said  to  have  fenced  in  a  grazing-farm  of  a 
million  of  acres,  and  who  numbered  his  cattle  by  tens 
of  thousands.  His  name  was  King,  and  his  title  in 
all  the  West  was  the  "  Cattle  King  of  Texas."  Tho 
father  and  daughter  were  much  interested  in  an 
inspection  of  the  fort,  where  they  were  hospitably 
entertained.  From  that  time  onward  for  several 
months,  the  dullness  of  garrison-life  was  only  relieved 
by  parties,  dinners,  and  theatrical  amusements  in  tho 


I  1 


ii 


i: 


i 


I 


46 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


city,  by  the  prescnco  of  an  encampment  of  Indians 
near  the  post,  and  by  attendance  at  a  pfrand  recep- 
tion and  ball  given  at  Kansas  City  by  the  Governor 
of  the  State.  The  letters  written  by  younfif  Lock- 
wood  during  all  this  period  are  elaborate  and  full  of 
interest  to  his  parents,  but  not  enlivened  with  any 
incidents  of  public  interest.  The  garrison  courts 
Bcem  to  have  demanded  very  much  of  his  attention, 
because  of  his  skill  in  taking  down  testimony  by  short- 
hand, and  he  was  frequently  compelled  to  devote 
many  of  his  slee])ing  hours  to  the  duty  of  writing  out 
his  notes. 

While  going  from  the  fort  into  town  one  day,  ho 
witnessed  what  he  called  an  awful  spectacle — three 
little  boys  in  a  state  of  intoxication.  This  recalled 
the  fate  of  one  of  his  former  companions  in  the  East, 
who  had  become  a  drunkard,  and  in  a  letter  to  his 
father  he  recorded  the  following:  "Liquor  is  cer- 
tainly a  terrible  curse ;  one  constantly  sees  illustra- 
tions of  this  in  the  army.  You  rather  startled  me  in  a 
recent  letter  by  telling  me  you  had  taken  the  pledge. 
Had  you  departed  from  your  abstemious  habits  in 
this  respect  ?  was  my  first  thought,  but  I  was  at  once 
relieved  by  seeing  that  your  allusion  was  to  something 
else.  A  rule  that  I  have  had  for  a  long  time  and 
seldom  depart  from,  is  not  to  drink  before  sunset  and 
never  to  do  so  in  a  saloon.  It  is  rather  superfluous 
in  me  to  have  any  such  rules,  as  it  is  very  seldom  that 
I  have  a  desire  to  touch  spirituous  drinks,  and  then  I 
partake  only  for  the  sake  of  not  i*ppearing  to  be  rude 
in  social  matters." 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  KANSAS. 


47 


On  one  occasion,  after  describing  a  splendid  din- 
ner which  he  had  attended,  he  branches  off  upon  his 
own  experiences  in  that  line,  stating  that  he  had  been 
caterer  for  tho  **Baclieh)r8'  Club"  during  tiie  current 
month,  and  playing  housekeeper  for  tho  first  time  in 
his  life,  lie  was  striving  to  feed  tho  mess  well  and 
to  reduce  expenses,  tho  individual  assessments  amount- 
ing to  twenty-four  dollars. 

**  We  have  a  good  deal  of  fun,"  ho  says,  "at  tho 
moss  ;  among  other  ways,  by  a  resolution  of  the  offi- 
cers that  I  shall  keep  a  record  of  tho  puns,  jokes, 
profane  expression  ,  etc.  Any  one  indulging  in  these 
is  put  back  or  set  forward  on  a  regular  motion  and 
vote  by  the  members,  and  any  one  getting  a  record  of 
fifteen  has  to  send  to  the  store  for  a  supply  of  cigars. 
One  of  tho  mess,  having  the  bad  habit  of  saying,  *  0 
Lord  ! '  and  *  Damn  it ! '  when  excited,  gets  a  great 
many  bad  raarks,  and  is  made  unhappy.  The  stand- 
ard of  wit  being  very  high,  one  seldom  *gocs  ahead.' " 

In  May,  1878,  when  it  was  doubtful  what  Congress 
would  do  about  reducing  the  army,  and  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  thought  that  he  might  decide  to  leave  tho 
service,  he  discussed  with  his  father  tho  question  of 
future  employment.  He  thought  favorably  of  a  po- 
sition in  some  telegraph  company,  thereby  proving 
that,  in  all  his  studies  and  leisurely  occupations,  he 
was  practical,  and  no  visionary.  Another  idea  that 
he  had  was  that  he  might  play  Cincinnatus,  and  again 
go  upon  the  farm.  He  also  thought  of  a  position  in 
connection  with  the  Signal  Service  as  one  that  would 

suit  him  should  he,  from  any  cause,  be  compelled  to 
8 


48 


FARTHEST  NORTE 


III 


I 


leave  the  army ;  and  this  suggestion,  taken  in  connec- 
tion with  his  subsequent  career,  is  notable.  He  went 
so  far,  indeed,  as  to  ask  his  father  about  the  practi- 
cability of  securing  such  a  position  in  that  corps,  and 
desired  especially  to  know  all  about  the  nece&sary 
qualifications. 

On  one  occasion,  after  alluding  to  the  possibility 
of  his  being  transferred  for  duty  to  some  other  place, 
he  says  that  it  might  be  a  good  thing  for  him,  as  ho 
could  not  remain  at  Leavenworth  always,  and  yet  he 
dreaded  to  be  sent  to  some  "  far-distant  and  isolated 
post."  "When  he  wi'oto  those  words,  how  little  did 
he  imagine  that  he  would  eventually  close  his  earthly 
career  in  a  land  of  supreme  desolation  within  the  Arc- 
tic Circle ! 

Subsequently — July,  1878 — he  resumed  with  spe- 
cial earnestness  the  consideration  of  being  detailed  for 
duty  in  the  Signal  Service,  and,  with  his  father's  ap- 
probation, made  the  proper  application.  He  thought 
the  proposed  transfer  would  be  of  benefit  to  him  in 
many  ways,  and  if  he  failed  to  make  it  so,  he  would 
very  quickly  be  ordered  back  to  his  regiment. 

In  September  he  was  ordered  to  St.  Louis  for  the 
purpose  of  conducting  some  recruits  westward,  and 
for  a  short  time  it  was  uncertain  whether  he  would 
have  to  go  to  Texas  or  the  Territory  of  Wyoming, 
whereby  were  shown  the  uncertainties  which  attend 
life  in  the  army.  He  took  the  recruits  to  Fort  Lara- 
mie, and,  on  his  way,  was  in  danger  of  being  embroiled 
witi;  the  Cheyenne  Indians  under  Sitting  Bull,  b  t 
returned  in  safety,  by  way  of  his  old  camp  at  Omahu, 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  KANSAS. 


49 


to  his  company  at  Fort  Leavenworth.  During  another 
trip,  which  he  soon  after  took  with  his  company,  he 
saw  in  western  Kansf^s  many  Russian  immigrants. 
They  were  poor,  and  had  settled  at  great  distances 
along  the  streams  to  be  near  water,  not  always 
easily  found  in  these  regions.  They  knew  nothing 
of  the  recent  outbreak  of  the  Indians,  and,  in- 
deed, many  of  them  had  never  seen  an  Indian.  The 
lieutenant  also  stumbled  upon  a  colony  of  Swedes, 
and  at  one  place  saw  three  women,  whose  husbands 
had  been  killed  by  the  Indians,  and  who  were  weeping 
bitterly  in  their  distress.  While  his  company  was  on 
the  march  he  generally  kept  at  the  head  of  the  column, 
thereby  receiving  the  title  of  Pedestrian  of  the  Com- 
mand. Much  of  the  country  over  which  they  trav- 
eled was  monotonous  in  the  extreme — wide  stretches 
of  prairie  reaching  to  the  far  horizon.  Antelopes  and 
Jack-rabbits  were  frequently  seen,  and  sometimes  were 
fired  at  without  success.  But,  to  his  mind,  the  most 
wonderful  features  about  the  country  were  the  count- 
less trucks  and  bones  of  the  buffalo,  while  not  a  living 
animiil  was  seen.  One  of  his  guides  informed  him 
that  in  former  times  he  had  killed  three  hundred  in 
a  single  day,  so  that  it  was  no  wonder  that  they  were 
now  extinct. 

In  a  letter  to  one  of  his  sisters,  in  October,  he 
speaks  of  his  return  from  this  chase  after  Cheyenne 
Indians,  and  then  f  '>'^s  on  to  mention  some  amusing 
incidents  that  had  occurred  at  the  post,  and  gives  her 
this  bit  of  artistic  advice  :  "  I  hope  you  will  profit  by 
your  talent  for  painting,  not  bury  it  in  the  ground, 


■i! 


50 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


:i« 


¥ 


like  the  foolish  steiuard.  Painting  is  a  great  and  very 
popular  accomplishment ;  there  is  none  perhaps  more 
so.**  No  matter  what  happened  in  or  about  the  gar- 
rison, he  seemed  always  ready  with  his  commoji-sense 
opinions  referring  to  passing  events.  For  example, 
after  alluding  to  the  burning  of  a  stable,  with  thir- 
teen mules,  when  some  of  them  that  had  been  released 
ran  into  the  fire  from  fright,  he  thus  proceeds :  *'  I 
was  talking  *  over  the  wire '  with  one  of  the  men  on 
our  telegraph  line,  and  what  he  said  is  no  doubt  true, 
and  shows  the  short-sightedness  of  the  Government. 
He  said  that  he  and  many  of  the  other  soldiers  had 
damaged  or  lost  their  clothes,  and  that  if  soldiers 
were  reimbursed  for  their  losses  on  such  occasions, 
they  would  work  with  much  more  vim  and  energy, 
and  that  he  heard  one  man  say  that  he  would  not  lose 
his  new  pantaloons  for  all  the  mules  in  the  stable.  Of 
course,  in  the  case  of  a  private  house  on  fire,  I  believe 
the  enlisted  men  would  risk  everything ;  but  in  cases 
of  this  kind,  where  Government  property  only  is  con- 
cerned, this  feeling  has  its  existence.  There  is,  too, 
some  reason  for  this  feeling;  for,  no  matter  how  hard 
a  soldier  or  officer  may  work  at  a  fire  to  save  public 
property,  the  Government  will  not  reward  him  even 
by  the  restitution  of  his  clothes.  Nothing  short  of 
an  act  of  Congress  would  be  authority  for  such  an 


issue. 


» 


That  the  heart  of  this  young  man  was  as  pure  as 
his  mind  was  bright,  may  be  seen  by  reading  the  fol- 
lowing remarks  concerning  the  death  of  a  little  niece  : 
"I  learn  with  deep  regret  the  death  of  poor  little 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  KANSAS. 


61 


Agnes,  and  sympathize  heartily  with  Lidio  and  her 
husband  in  their  affliction,  the  depth  of  which  none 
but  a  parent  can  know.  It  should  be  a  consolation, 
however,  that  the  disease  carried  the  little  one  away 
in  all  the  innocence  of  childhood,  before  her  mothei's 
love  had  been  intensified  with  years,  and  her  own  in- 
telligence had  taught  her  to  love  and  cling  to  life.  The 
sad  news  reached  me  on  the  day  of  the  funeral  of  the 
little  daughter  of  a  brother  lieutenant.  The  little  baby 
seemed  very  amiable  in  life,  and  after  death  lost  none 
of  her  sweetness.  I  sat  up  with  the  remains  during 
the  night  before  the  funeral."  Alas  T  when  this  no- 
ble-hearted young  man  gave  up  his  own  life,  his  only 
night- watchers  were  the  stars  and  the  icy  mountains 
of  the  far-distant  North  ! 

In  December,  1878,  the  Twenty-third  Regiment 
received  orders  for  service  in  the  Indian  Tcrritorv, 
and  a  few  weeks  afterward  entered  upon  its  line  of 
march.  In  the  mean  time,  the  lieutenant  made  him- 
self useful  in  performing  the  duties  of  an  engineer 
for  the  sanitary  benefit  of  the  Leavenworth  garrison. 
After  some  appropriate  studying,  he  soon  got  the 
knack  of  running  the  levels  and  measuring  angles 
with  the  theodolite.  He  found  these  new  duties  in- 
teresting, preferring  the  field-work  to  the  making  of 
tLe  necessary  profiles  and  other  drawings,  involving 
measurements  to  the  y^jVr  ^^  ^^  i^ch — rather  a  con- 
fining employment. 


i 


I 

:.S3 


v% 


'\i 


k-  i 


V. 

ARMY-LIFE   IN    INDIAN   TERRITORY  AND 

COLORADO. 

From  the  spring  of  1879  until  the  winter  of  1881, 
Lieutenant  Lookwood  spent  a  part  of  his  time  in  the 
Indian  Territory,  but  chiefly  in  the  State  of  Colorado. 
The  first  duty  of  his  company  was  to  establish  a  can- 
tonment on  the  Canadian  River.  On  their  way  thith- 
er, they  made  a  halt  at  Fort  Supply,  where  the  coun- 
try was  sparsely  settled,  and  where  the  rolling  prairies 
seemed  desolate  and  interminable.  Those  of  his  regi- 
ment who  had  been  ordered  to  Supply,  he  found  in 
miserable  quarters — ^log-huts  covered  inside  with  can- 
vas— old,  cold,  and  forlorn  in  appearance  inside  and 
out,  and  yet  the  canvas  walls  thus  used  and  useless 
were  furnished  at  a  cost  of  hundreds  of  dollars.  After 
leaving  that  place  for  the  Canadian  River,  he  was 
made  the  engineer  officer,  and,  with  a  view  of  mak- 
ing a  map  of  the  route  and  surrounding  country,  de- 
voted his  time  to  the  science  of  topography,  being 
rewarded  by  the  hearty  approbation  of  the  officer  in 
command. 

He  had  counted  upon  having  some  good  hunting 
on  this  route  for  turkeys  and  other  game,  but  was 
disappointed,  owing  to  the  fact,  as  was  supposed,  that 


II 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  COLORADO. 


53 


several  hundred  Indians  had  passed  through  the  coun- 
try some  weeks  before  and  had  gobbled  up  everything, 
including  a  host  of  gobblers.  On  reaching  their  des- 
tination, the  company  went  into  camp  under  a  bluff 
on  the  Canadian  River,  where  they  were  to  remain 
until  buildings  could  be  erected  in  the  immediate 
vicinity.  At  the  conclusion  of  his  first  letter  written 
home  from  this  camp,  he  says,  "I  am  lying  at  full 
length  on  a  buffalo-robe  with  my  paper  on  *  Daniel 
Deronda,'  and  the  position  is  not  comfortable." 

In  June,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  sent  with  a 
small  party  to  Post  Reno,  where  troubles  were  appre- 
hended with  the  Indians.  It  was  not  necessary  to  do 
any  fighting  there,  however,  for  the  reason  that  the 
chief  inhabitants  of  the  region  were  rattlesnakes,  ta- 
rantulas, and  prairie-dogs,  and  the  Indians  in  the  vi- 
cinity did  not  seem  to  be  in  a  blood-thirsty  mood. 
Returning  to  the  cantonment  on  the  Canadian  River, 
he  was  depressed  by  the  discomforts  of  the  place — no 
society  and  many  extra  duties — but  he,  nevertheless, 
found  time  and  inclination  to  study  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage, as  if  determined  not  to  leave  a  stone  unturned 
in  his  efforts  to  make  himself  useful,  or  ready  for  any 
emergency.  After  confessing  his  fondness  for  social 
intercourse,  he  writes:  "At  times  I  get  the  entiui 
and  blues  very  much.  Still  I  try  to  preserve  a  philo- 
sophic mind,  and  when  the  dark  side  of  tlie  picture 
presents  itself,  I  take  a  different  stand-po'nt,  and  thus 
force  myself  to  see,  by  contrast,  the  bright  side.  I 
find,  and  ever  have  found,  that  tlie  more  occupied  I 
am,  the  better  contented  I  feel." 


I 


i'     \ 


liS 


"^^  'i 


54 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


In  April,  1880,  ho  went  upon  a  kind  of  exploring 
expedition,  riding  in  ten  days  a  distance  of  nearly 
three  hundred  miles,  and  on  returning  was  glad 
enough  to  have  a  little  rest  in  his  camp.  But,  before 
he  could  fall  into  any  idle  habits,  he  was  ordered  west- 
ward, with  his  coin/nand,  on  still  more  arduous  duties. 
In  a  letter  from  a  camp  near  Sflguache,  on  the  borders 
of  Colorado,  he  sent  home  the  following  account  of 
what  he  had  seen  and  experienced :  **  We  left  Fort 
Garland  on  the  17th  of  May,  and  have  since  been 
traveling  across  *  San  Luis  Park,'  the  *  Valley  of  the 
Gods.'  This  is  a  vast  level  plain  in  southern  Colo- 
rado, surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high,  snow-capped 
mountains,  which  always  seem  within  a  few  hours* 
travel,  and  yet  are  miles  and  miles  away.  When  one 
considers  that  Blanco  Peak  is  over  fourteen  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea-level,  one  does  not  wonder  that  it  is 
very  plainly  seen  from  where  I  am  now  writing.  This 
Paradise  of  the  Gods  is  some  two  hundred  miles  long 
by  over  sixty  across,  and  is  a  veritable  desert.  I  have 
met  nothing  like  it  outside  of  Arizona.  The  vegeta- 
tion consists  of  greasewood  and  sage-brush — some- 
tiraes  not  even  this ;  the  irrigation-ditches  that  one 
meets  near  the  few  streams  seem  hardly  able  to  pro- 
duce a  feeble,  stunted  grass.  For  miles  and  miles,  all 
is  pulverized  dust,  which,  blown  by  the  winds  in  blind- 
ing clouds,  covers  everything  like  the  ashes  of  a  vol- 
cano. Night  before  last  one  of  these  pleasafit  zephyrs 
blew  down  several  of  the  tents,  and  filled  the  air  so 
thickly  with  dust,  that  several  of  the  command,  who 
had  their  hats  blown  off,  were  unable  to  find  or  re- 


ARMY-LIFE  IN  COLORADO. 


55 


cover  them.  They  say  it  sometimes  rains  hero,  but  I 
very  much  doubt  it.  The  few  ranches  wo  have  en- 
countered are  on  streams  descending  from  the  mount- 
ains, which  sink  in  the  plain  after  running  a  short 
distance ;  and  bordering  them  are  the  squal'd  adobe 
houses,  the  only  habitations  in  the  country. 

**  Improbable  as  it  may  seem,  the  owners  say  that 
they  raise  potatoes,  etc.  Surely  these  mountains 
should  be  of  gold  and  silver  to  compensate  for  the 
sterility  of  the  soil."  The  prospect  did  not  make 
Lockwood  hilarious,  and  he  frankly  said  that  he  was 
tired  of  army-life,  and  that  eating  almost  nothing  but 
bacon,  and  going  without  any  comforts  caused  him  to 
sigh  for  a  return  to  the  old  Annapolis  farm.  He  had 
not  the  ambition  to  enjoy  the  glory  of  army-life  in 
such  a  wilderness.  It  might,  indeed,  give  one  a  com- 
petency, but  it  was  a  gold-mine  in  Arizona  that  had 
recently  given  a  fortune  of  fifty  thousand  dollars  to 
one  of  the  officers  of  his  regiment.  After  a  short  stay 
at  Garland  and  Alamosa,  and  catching  a  glimpse  of  the 
Del  Norte,  the  command  reached  the  Cochetapa  Pass, 
near  Los  Pinos  and  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains ;  and  now  the  lieutenant  began  to  experience  a 
kind  of  mountain-fever,  which  he  called  a  weird  con- 
dition of  the  system.  He  was  troubled  with  the  short- 
ness of  breath  usual  at  great  altitudes.  The  six  hun- 
dred mules  drawing  the  train  of  one  hundred  wagons 
had  great  difficulty  in  passing  through  what  ho  called 
the  terrible  canons.  Early  in  June,  1880,  ho  reached 
the  Uncompahgre  River,  where  the  command  en- 
camped.     Hardly  had  he  obtained  any  relaxation 


-*■ 


I 


66 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I 


before  an  order  came  from  Fort  Leayenwortb,  de- 
tailing a  general  court  and  making  him  the  judge 
advocate,  thereby  proving  that  there  was  not  much 
rest  for  an  officer  of  recognized  ability.  While  anx- 
ious to  make  money,  he  did  not,  while  among  the 
mountains,  follow  the  ex  implo  of  certain  fellow-offi- 
cers, who  devoted  some  attention  to  mining  specu- 
lations, their  mode  of  operating  being  as  follows  : 
**  For  example,  they  secure  the  services  of  a  competent 
man,  provide  him  with  food,  etc.,  and  seed  him  out 
to  prospect.  Those  in  the  Nineteenth  have  received 
a  very  flattering  letter  from  their  man,  who  has 
struck  a  very  rich  vein,  according  to  his  account. 
But  this  and  ?11  similar  ventures  are  more  chance. 
Money,  to  the  amount  of  twenty-five  or  fifty  dollars, 
seems  little  to  invest  in  enterprises  that  may  pay  thou- 
sands ;  but  these  investments  count  up  and  are  not 
pleasant  to  consider  when  all  ends  in  failure.  One  of 
the  officers  has  invested  not  less  than  thirty-three 
hundred  dollars  in  this  mine-hunting  business.  lie 
goes  it  alone,  and  has  all  the  enthusiasm  of  an  old 
miner."  Not  caring  to  waste  his  money  in  specula- 
tions of  this  sort,  he  improved  his  leisure  in  explorinp: 
the  scenery  of  the  region,  especially  some  ca^^ons 
where  the  walls  were  several  thousand  feet  high,  and 
also  a  stream  called  Cow  Creek,  where  he  had  some 
superb  fishing  and  caught  the  largest  trout  he  had 
evc!*  seen,  while  his  companions  killed  a  number  of 
deei.  Among  ihe  scenes  in  which  he  was  especially 
interested  was  a  hot  spring  ivhich  measured  thirty 
feet  across,  a  waterfall  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  a 


I' 


ARHY-LIFE  IN  COLOBADO. 


» 


small  mining  hamlet  nestled  in  a  pocket  of  the  mount- 
ains, and  where,  funny  to  relate,  he  and  his  compan- 
ions were  suspected  to  be  tramps  or  horse-thieves. 
Ileturning  to  his  regular  cantonment  on  the  Uncom- 
pahgre,  he  was  informed  of  a  pending  trouble  with  the 
Ute  Indians,  when,  according  to  his  habit,  he  ex- 
pressed this  decided  opinion  :  "If  the  sentimentalists 
on  Indian  questions  in  the  East  could  be  brought  out 
here  and  made  to  feel  and  suffer  the  outrages  which 
these  savages  inflict  on  isolated  settlers,  there  would 
not  be  so  many  to  support  the  Interior  Department 
in  its  abominable  prejudice  in  all  questions  of  Whites 
V8,  Indians." 

In  one  of  his  letters,  written  from  a  cantonment 
in  Colorado,  he  mentions  with  pain  the  temporary  fall 
of  one  of  his  brother  oflBcers,  who,  while  playing  a 
game  of  poker,  was  charged  with  dishonesty,  thereby 
pocketing  a  hundred  dollars.  The  poor  fellow  had 
been  placed  in  arrest  and  was  to  have  a  trial.  In 
speaking  of  his  manner  of  killing  time  in  his  Colorado 
camp,  he  alludes  to  the  fact  of  having  two  setter  dogs, 
which  he  was  training  for  use  and  his  own  amuse- 
ment, and  further  says  that  when  not  playing  a  game 
of  billiards  at  the  store  near  the  camp,  he  spent  his 
time  in  reading,  the  books  then  occupying  his  atten- 
tion being,  Tyler's  "Baconian  Philosophy,"  which  he 
greatly  admired ;  Swinton's  "  History  of  the  Rebel- 
lion," which  he  criticised  with  some  severity ;  and 
Green's  "Russian  Campaign  in  Turkey,"  which  in- 
terested him  greatly. 


II 


^    'X 


M 


M 


I 


VI. 


R    4. 


PREPARING  FOR  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 

From  this  point,  the  story  of  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood's  life  will  be  chiefly  given  from  the  records 
which  he  kept  during  his  sojourn  in  the  Arctic  re- 
gions. For  reasons  which  the  general  reader  will 
appreciate,  all  merely  technical  and  official  remarks 
have  been  omitted,  and  only  those  regained  whicli  are 
calculated  to  illustrate  the  personal  character  of  the 
man  and  officer,  it  being  understood  that  his  journals, 
illustrating  his  merits  and  labors,  will  be  fully  set 
forth  in  the  official  history,  to  be  hereafter  published, 
of  the  expedition  with  which  he  was  so  honorably 
identified. 

In  1880  it  was  proposed  by  an  International  Polar 
Commission,  for  the  purpose  of  elucidating  in  behalf 
of  science  the  phenomena  of  the  weather  and  of  the 
magnetic  needle,  that  meteorological  stations  should 
be  established  by  various  countries  in  different  parts 
of  the  polar  regions.  The  Congress  of  the  United 
States  made  an  appropriation  for  es+ublishing  a  sci- 
entific colony  at  the  two  places  designated  for  the  oc- 
cupation of  the  Americans — viz..  Point  Barrow,  in 
Alaska,  and  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  in  Grinnell  Land. 
These  stations  were  to  be  occupied  for  from  one  to 


PREPARINO  FOR  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


69 


thrco  years.  At  tho  time  tho  expedition  was  being 
organized  in  Washington  for  the  latter  place,  Lieuten- 
ant Lock  wood  was  on  a  visit  to  his  parents  in  that 
city.  Taking  a  si)ecial  interest  in  the  operations  of 
the  Signal-Service  Bureau,  which  had  the  business  in 
charge,  he  forthwith  volunteered  for  the  proposed  ex- 
pedition, and  his  services  were  accepted  by  the  Sec- 
retary of  War.  When  the  party  for  the  Lady  Frank- 
lin Bay  station  was  fully  organized,  it  consisted  of 
First-Lieutenant  Adolphus  W.  Greely,  U.  S.  A.,  com- 
mander ;  Lieutenants  F.  F.  Kislingbury  and  James 
B.  Lockwood,  U.  S.  A.,  as  assistants;  and  Dr.  0. 
Pavy,  as  surgeon  and  naturalist ;  with  a  force  of 
twenty-two  sergeants,  corporals,  and  privates,  all  con- 
nected with  the  army,  and  whose  names  are  given  as 
follows :  Edward  Israel,  Winfield  S.  JcwelL  George 
W.  Rice,  David  0.  Ralston,  Hampden  S.  Gardiner,^ 
sergeants  ill  the  Signal  Corp^;  William  IL  Cross,  ser- 
geant in  the  general  service  ;  Davia  L.  Brainard  and 
David  Linn,  sergeants  of  cavalry ;  Nicholas  Saler, 
corporal  of  infantry ;  Joseph  Ellison,  corporal  of  in- 
fantry ;  Charles  B.  Henry,  Maurice  Council,  Jacob 
Bei\^r,  Francic  Long,  William  Whistler,  Henry  Bie- 
derbWk,  Julius  R.  Fredericks,  Willi^  A.  Ellis,  and 
Roderick  R.  Schneider,  privates  in  various  biCnches  of 
the  army ;  and,  finally,  two  Esquimaux,  Jans  Ed- 
wards and  Frederick  Christiansen,  of  Greenland. 

In  view  of  the  possibility  that  Lady  Franklin  Bay 
might  become  a  permanent  station,  all  the  prelimi- 
nary arrangements  were  made  as  complete  as  possible. 
A  steamer  called  the  Proteus  was  secured  for  convey- 


t-:: 


GO 


FABTOEST  NORTH. 


ing  the  expedition  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  and  slio 
waa  ordered  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  cxx)lorors  at 
the  port  of  St.  Jolin's,  in  Nc  iv^f oundland.  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  sailed  in  a  stcarncr  from  Baltimore  with 
the  party  and  reached  St.  Jolin's  late  in  June. 

Hero  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  submit  a  few 
remarks  on  the  utility  of  these  Arctic  explorations, 
which  are  sometimes  criticised  by  people  who,  with- 
out due  consideration,  jump  to  hasty  conclusions.  In 
former  times  their  main  object  was  to  lind  open  pas- 
sages between  the  northern  regions  of  Europe,  Asia, 
and  America,  and  to  settle  the  problem  of  the  north 
pole  ;  and  statistics  show  that  when  these  expeditions 
have  confined  their  operations  within  reasonable  lim- 
its, the  mortality  attending  them  has  been  remarkably 
small — less  than  in  ordinary  commercial  voyages.  Sir 
John  Franklin  went  far  beyond  these  limits,  and  left 
no  monuments  by  which  he  could  be  traced.  De 
Long  put  his  ship  into  the  polar  ice  with  the  design 
of  moving  with  the  polar  drift.  The  Greely  Expedi- 
tion was  expected  to  be  confined,  and  was  confined,  to 
the  well-known  waters  of  Smith's  Sound.  It  could, 
therefore,  be  reached  at  any  time,  and,  if  necessary, 
it  could  fall  back  upon  a  point  accessible  at  all  times. 
All  that  was  required  to  secure  its  safe  return  was  a 
well-chosen  base,  and  an  absolute  certainty  that  this 
base  would  be  maintained.  Unfortunately,  neither 
requirement  was  fulfilled,  and  hence  nineteen  men  lost 
their  lives.  Sledge-journeys  from  established  bases, 
though  fraught  with  great  labor  and  discomfort,  have 
never  been  attended  with  serious  loss  of  life.    It  is 


11 


TREPARING  FOR  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


CI 


} 


now  about  ono  thousand  years  since  the  first  Arctic 
voyage  was  made,  and  their  aggregate  uscfulncsa  can 
hardly  bo  questioned  wlien  we  remember  that  they 
have  developed  fisheries  that  have  built  up  the  com- 
merce and  navies  of  nations,  and  that  the  direct  re- 
turn into  the  exchange  of  England  has  been  far  more 
than  the  cost  to  her  of  all  her  Arctic  explorations. 
The  Polar  Commission,  already  alluded  to,  inaugur- 
ated a  now  policy  in  regard  to  Arctic  explorations, 
and  one  whose  utility  can  not  be  questioned.  It  had 
its  origin,  in  1875,  in  the  mind  of  a  German  discov- 
erer named  Carl  "Weyprecht ;  and  in  the  opinion  of 
many  of  the  leading  minds  of  the  world,  the  meteoro- 
logical observations  inaugurated  by  him  have  done 
much,  and  will  do  much  more,  to  rectify  errors  in 
the  polar  problem  and  bring  to  light  information 
about  the  ice  zones,  which  will  give  the  observers  a 
prominent  position  in  scientific  history.  According 
to  Professor  Joseph  Henry,  the  problems  connected 
with  physical  geography  and  science,  which  are  yet 
unsolved,  are  the  determination  of  the  figure  and  of 
the  magnetism  of  the  earth,  complete  knowledge  of 
the  tides  of  the  ocean,  the  winds  of  the  globe,  and 
the  influence  of  extreme  cold  on  animal  and  vege- 
table life.  Surely  the  men  who  voluntarily  toil  and 
suffer  in  their  efforts  to  obtain  the  needed  light  on 
all  these  subjects,  are  quite  as  worthily  employed  as 
those  who  struggle  for  riches  or  political  fame.  In 
the  Professor's  opinion,  all  the  branches  of  science 
above  mentioned  are  indirectly  connected  with  the 
well-being  of  man,  and  tend  not  only  to  enlarge  his 


I   ; 


:\ 


■  1,; 


62 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


; 


5^ 

ill 


mi 


li 


; 


Sphere  of  mental  activity,  but  to  promote  the  applica- 
tion of  scienco  to  the  arts  of  life.  A  French  writer, 
after  applauding  the  plans  of  the  Polar  Commission, 
concludes  his  remarks  as  follows  :  "  The  larger  num- 
ber of  the  civilized  nations  are  striving  by  scientific 
means  to  wrest  the  mysterious  secrets  of  the  deep 
from  the  hidden  recesses  of  the  North."  In  1884  the 
number  of  nations  that  had  entered  heartily  into  the 
project  was  thirteen  ;  fifteen  polar  stations,  and  over 
forty  auxiliary  stations,  had  already  been  established. 
That  the  reader  may  fully  understand  the  operations 
and  exploits  which  are  to  be  chronicled  in  the  subse- 
quent pages  of  this  volume,  it  may  be  well  to  submit 
the  subjoined  extract  from  the  oflicial  report  of  Gen- 
eral W.  B.  nazen.  Chief  of  the  United  States  Signal 
Service,  for  the  year  1881 :  *'  Owing  to  the  very  mobile 
nature  of  the  atmosphere,  the  changes  taking  place  on 
one  portion  of  the  globe,  especially  in  the  Arctic  zone, 
quickly  affect  regions  very  distant  therefrom.  The 
study  of  the  weather  in  Europe  and  America  can  not 
be  successfully  prosecuted  without  a  daily  map  of  the 
wholf)  northern  hemisphere,  and  the  great  blank  space 
of  the  Arctic  region  upon  our  simultaneous  interna- 
tional chart  has  long  been  a  subject  of  regret  to  me- 
teorologists. The  general  object  is  to  r.ocomplish,  by 
observations  made  in  concert  at  numerous  stations, 
such  additions  to  our  knowledge  as  can  not  be  acquired 
by  isolated  or  desultory  traveling  parties.  No  special 
attempt  will  be  made  at  geographical  exploration,  and 
neither  expedition  is  in  any  sense  expected  to  reach  the 
north  pole.    The  single  object  is  to  elucidate  the  phe- 


PREPARING  FOR  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


63 


nomena  of  the  weather  and  of  the  magnetic  needle  as  / 
they  occur  in  America  and  Europe,  by  moans  of  ob-  j 
eeryations  taken  in  the  rog7on  where  the  most  remark-  \ 
able  <listurbances  seem  to  liave  their  origin." 

While  the  foregoing  were  to  be  considered  as  the 
primary  considerations,  it  was  expressly  stated  in  the 
official  instructions,  that  sledging  parties,  generally, 
should  work  in  the  interests  of  exploration  and  dis- 
covery, and  should  be  conducted  with  all  possible 
care  and  fidelity.  Careful  attention  was  also  to  bo 
given  to  the  collection  of  specimens  of  the  animal, 
mineral,  and  vegetable  kingdoms.  It  will  bo  seen  that 
all  that  was  accomplished  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
was  instigated  by  the  mandate  connected  with  the 
use  of  the  sledge. 

It  thus  appears  that  the  Greely  expedition  was  not 
only  intended  to  accomplish  a  good  work,  but  that 
in  all  human  probability  the  same  might  have  been 
accomplished  without  serious  loss  of  life.  That  there 
was  a  deplorable  loss  of  life,  we  can  only  lament,  leav- 
ing for  others  to  point  out  the  causes  of  the  disaster 
which  befell  the  expedition. 


"  \'M 


i 


i: 


i  I. 


ill! 


Hi 


Ill 

I 

.     •    j 


::<;.Si 


VII. 

FROM  NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANK- 
LIN BAY. 

All  things  being  ready,  the  Greely  Expedition  left 
St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  for  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  on 
Thursday,  July  7, 1881,  in  the  steamer  Proteus,  Cap- 
tain Pike.  She  was  a  barkentine,  measuring  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  having  a  bur- 
den of  six  hundred  tons.  Built  in  Scotland  for  the 
whaling  and  sealing  service,  she  had  already  made 
several  successful  voyages  within  the  Arctic  Circle  and 
on  the  Labrador  coast.  The  departure  of  the  ship 
elicited  no  demonstration  from  the  people  on  the  dock, 
excepting  a  few  cheers  from  some  warm-hearted  fisher- 
men. Whether  the  good  people  of  Newfoundland  were 
disgusted  because  they  could  not  sell  any  more  sup- 
plies at  extravagant  prices,  or  were  displeased  with 
the  Yankee  explorers  for  presuming  to  compete  with 
Englishmen  in  the  icy  North,  are  questions  not  to  bo 
easily  solved. 

During  his  stay  in  St,  John's,  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  wrote  a  letter  to  his  mother,  in  which  he  gave 
the  following  account  of  the  city  : 

"  St.  John's  is  a  queer  and  forlorn  old  place  ;  every- 
thing is  antiquated,  slow,  and  behind  the  times  in 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.      65 


every  respect  The  few  hotels  are  more  like  third- 
class  boarding-houses  ;  a  livery-stable  is  not  to  be 
found  in  this  city  of  thirty  thousand.  This  condition 
of  affairs  is  said  to  be  due  to  the  religion  of  the  place, 
which  is  Roman  Catholic.  It  is  charged  that  ignor- 
ance and  poverty  are  what  this  church  most  thrives 
on,  an^.  it  is  certainly  a  thriving  church  liere.  The 
other  day  the  shops  were  all  closed,  and  the  place  as- 
sumed the  appearance  of  Sunday — it  was  a  holy  day 
for  their  patron  saints,  Peter  and  Paul.  Only  two 
classes  here — the  poor  and  the  rich — and  everything 
accordc  with  the  former  class.  Crooked  streets  and 
mean,  forlorn,  dirty  houses  everywhere.  The  only 
respectable  public  buildings  are  the  Catholic  churches 
and  the  conTents." 

With  the  wind  favorable,  the  sea  calm,  the  sky 
clear,  and  all  in  good  spirits,  away  went  the  vessel 
on  her  voyage  to  the  North.  A  steam-launch,  called 
the  Lady  Greely,  rested  securely  on  the  main  deck. 
It  was  arranged  that  the  sergeants  of  the  expedi- 
tion should  sleep  in  the  cabin,  eating  at  the  second 
table,  and  the  rest  of  the  men  live  forward  ;  and, 
though  somewhat  crowded,  it  was  hoped  they  would 
all  be  comfortable.  During  the  first  twenty-four 
hours,  two  hundred  miles  were  made.  Lieutenant 
Greely  and  most  of  the  men  were  sea-sick.  At  sun- 
set on  the  second  day  out,  the  first  iceberg  was  seen, 
and  attracted  the  special  attention  of  the  land-lub- 
bers. On  the  9th,  gales  from  the  northwest  set  in, 
and  the  sick  men  became  worse — the  thermometer 
marking  forty  degrees,  the  air  being  damp  and  un- 


:  .{( 


'i 


■      f 


66 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


comfortable.  The  wind  moderated  in  the  evening, 
but  left  the  sea  very  rough,  so  that  the  steam-launcli 
had  to  be  secured  in  her  cradle  by  braces.  Although 
then  in  the  track  of  the  St.  Lawrence  trade,  not  a 
single  vessel  was  seen,  suggesting  the  idea  that  busi- 
ness was  not  flourishing.  As  to  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood,  he  was  in  good  spirits,  and  amused  :  ••  iseif  by 
reading  Kennan's  interesting  book  on  Siberian  life. 
On  the  following  day  the  sea  went  down,  and  the 
sick  men  came  up  from  their  berths  and  were  able  to 
resume  their  places  at  the  table,  Lockwood  and  Kis- 
lingbury  being  the  only  ones  who  had  escaped  sea-sick- 
ness. When  the  former  had  finished  Kennan's  book, 
he  took  up  Barrow's  **  Voyage  within  the  Arctic  Cir- 
cle," reading  it  in  the  presence  of  several  icebergs, 
which  appeared  as  if  they  intended  to  welcome  the 
band  of  Yankee  adventurers  to  their  inhospitable  do- 
main. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  notwithstanding  the 
promise  of  fine  summer  weather,  the  sky  became  over- 
cast, and  at  noon  the  captain,  assisted  by  the  vol- 
unteers, including  Lockwood,  Israel,  and  Gardiner, 
could  hardly  succeed  in  getting  observations,  and 
though  they  reckoned  the  latitude  at  58°,  it  was  not 
reliable.  Eain,  attended  with  high  winds  or  gales,  suc- 
ceeded, the  sufferers  from  sea-sickness  finding  refuge 
in  their  berths.  Ellis,  one  of  the  sergeants,  suffered 
more  than  the  others,  having  refused  all  food  since 
leaving  port.  They  could  give  him  no  aid  save  a  lit- 
tle wine  and  beef -tea.  The  cold,  cheerless  weather 
depressed  the  spirits  of  all,  but  they  hoped  to  get  used 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.       67 

to  it.  The  days  were  sensibly  growing  longer,  be- 
ginning at  1.45  A.  M.  and  closing  at  10  P.  M.  They 
now  remarked  the  absence  of  icebergs  and  ice-floes, 
and  wondered  whether  tliis  meant  that  the  previous 
winter  in  the  north  had  been  so  mild  that  but  little 
ice  had  formed,  or  that  the  spring  had  been  so  back- 
ward that  but  little  had  bc':;ome  detached  and  drifted 
southward.  They  had  learned  at  St.  John's  that  the 
late  winter  had  been  the  mildest  ever  known  there. 
At  the  close  of  the  11th,  no  land  was  in  sight,  and 
they  had  made  seven  hundred  miles.  The  steward  in- 
formed Lockwood  that  the  men  were  growling  about 
their  food,  which  was  the  same  as  that  received  in  the 
cabin.  He  thought  this  a  bad  sign  for  Arctic  explor- 
ers, but  tried  to  make  matters  more  satisfactory. 

The  next  day  was  disagreeable,  a  cold  rain  falling ; 
and  though  a  strong  head-wind  was  blowing,  the 
sea  was  smooth,  betokening  land  or  ice,  it  was  sup- 
posed. Accordingly,  at  9  p.  m.,  they  were  aroused 
by  the  cry  of  "ice  ahead,"  and,  sure  enough,  there 
was  seen,  extending  over  90°  of  the  horizon,  the  white 
line  indicating  an  ice-floe.  Coming  up  to  the  ice, 
they  found  it  to  consist  of  detached  pieces  flowing 
southward.  Some  of  these  assumed  the  most  fantastic 
shapes — dogs,  seals,  and  other  animals,  and  even  houses 
and  castles,  readily  presenting  themselves  to  the  imagi- 
nation. One  piece  looked  like  an  old  ruin.  The  pil- 
lars, dome,  and  vaulted  roof,  all  were  there ;  indeed, 
the  effect  was  perfect.  Again,  other  pieces  presented 
varieties  of  color  most  beautiful  and  remarkable. 
Generally,  the  lower  parts  being  dark  blue,  were  sur- 


«■ 


68 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


3 !';:!': 


H'     >ll'' 


mounted  by  a  stratum  of  pure  white,  resembling  snow, 
but  really  the  purest  ice.  They  were  two  hours  in 
getting  through  this  floe.  Although  daylight  was 
continuous,  they  could  not,  because  of  fogs,  distin- 
guish the  hours  of  sunrise  or  sunset. 

On  the  following  day  the  weather  was  still  cloudy, 
and  another  ice-floe  detained  them  two  hours.  They 
also  saw  many  isolated  pieces  and  large  icebergs  in  the 
distance.  This  ice,  it  was  said,  came  from  the  east 
coast  of  Greenland  with  a  current  which,  flowing 
around  Cape  Farewell,  passes  up  the  west  coast  half 
way  to  Disco.  It  still  proved  interesting  to  the  voy- 
agers by  reason  of  its  fantastic  shapes  and  diversified 
colors — white,  blue,  and  green.  It  rose  a  few  feet 
above  the  water-line,  and  the  submerged  portion  of  the 
floe  colored  the  water  a  most  beautiful  green.  Seals 
were  then  seen  for  the  first  time,  basking  in  the  sun 
on  the  ice.  Judging  from  the  increased  seas,  they 
expected  no  more  ice-floes  in  front.  The  temperature 
also  indicated  this,  for  it  was  sensibly  warmer.  Lock- 
wood,  who  seemed  never  to  be  idle,  now  finished  Bar- 
row and  took  up  Captain  Nares's  "  British  Expedi- 
tion of  1876-76,"  reading,  writing,  and  Bowditch 
occupying  much  of  his  time.  The  crow's  nest  was 
hoisted  to  the  main-top  on  that  day.  This  was  a  large 
barrel  or  hogshead  with  peep-holes  on  the  side  and  a 
trap  beneath.  This  afforded  shelter  for  a  man  posted 
there  who  looked  out  for  the  ice  and  the  best  way  of 
getting  through  it. 

On  the  16th,  fogs  detained  them  and  interfered  with 
noon  observations,  but,  lifting  at  three  o'clock,  they 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.       G9 


sighted  the  Greenland  coast  on  the  starboard  bow,  dis- 
tant fifteen  miles.  The  coast-lino  appeared  exceed- 
ingly rugged  and  broken,  and  the  interior,  mountain- 
ous with  deep  ravines  running  very  abruptly  down  to 
the  sea.  The  mountain-tops  were  covered  with  snow, 
but  generally  the  sides  were  bare  of  snow  except  the 
ravines,  which  seemed  to  be  filled  up  entirely.  This 
range  of  mountains  reminded  Lockwood  of  the  Un- 
compahgre  chain  in  Colorado  is  seen  from  Los  Pinoa 
Valley.  They  saw  the  usual  number  of  gulls  and 
a  species  of  duck  called  the  sea-pigeon,  also  several 
whales  blowing  and  spouting  in  the  distance,  sur- 
rounded by  flocks  of  small  birds  which  seemed  to  feed 
on  their  offal.  Kislingbury  and  the  steward  tried 
rifles  on  these  whales,  but  without  success.  One  whale 
being  near  by,  with  apparent  design  to  cross  the  track 
of  the  vessel,  was  met  by  the  rifle-ball,  but  with  no 
other  effect  than  to  cause  him  to  throw  up  his  tail  and 
dive  below  the  surface.  The  thermometer  rose  to  50° 
on  that  day,  rendering  the  deck,  where  all  were  assem- 
bled to  view  the  prospect,  quite  comfortable.  They 
then  first  witnessed  the  sunset  since  leaving  St.  John's, 
because  of  the  fogs  and  clouds  that  had  constantly 
attended  the  voyage.  The  sun's  disk  seemed  greatly 
flattened  just  as  it  disappeared  at  10.20,  and  presented 
much  the  appearance  of  a  huge  mushroom  seen  edge- 
wise. Enough  of  twilight  remained  at  midnight  to 
render  the  horizon  visible. 

On  the  16th,  they  steamed  cautiously  through  the 
fog,  making  but  fourteen  kn-^ts  between  noon  and  6 
p.  M.   Then  the  high,  bold  bluffs  forming  the  southern 


T  1 

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P 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


coast  of  Disco  Island  loomed  up  in  the  distance  di- 
rectly ahead.  These  bluffs  are  almost  vertical  and 
probably  five  hundrod  feet  high,  and  are  dcsolato  and 
barren  in  «  ex'  m(  The'.r  continuity  is  interrupted 
on  y  by  de»  p  ravmeis,  or  canons,  which  break  through 
at  vario'  i  atjp  Ir^s  to  the  sea.  They  there  found  them- 
selves in  the  midst  a  a  hundred  icebergs  of  every 
conceivable  form  and  size,  and  in  color  of  the  purest 
white,  resembling  in  the  distance  huge  mountains 
of  chalk.  One  of  the  sights  that  attracted  special 
notice  consisted  of  two  bergs  connected  by  an  immense 
arch  high  enough  overhead  for  the  ship  to  sail  be- 
neath, reminding  Lockwood  of  the  Natural  Bridge  of 
Virginia.  On  near  approach  it  looked  like  marble 
and  was  quite  as  smooth.  Some  time  afterward,  and 
when  two  miles  away,  a  signal-gun  was  fired  for  a  pilot. 
This  was  followed  by  a  rumbling  noise,  which  caused 
the  voyagers  to  look  back,  when  thi  ly  were  surprised 
to  see  this  Immense  nrch  tumble  over  and  fall  into  the 
sea,  throwing  the  spray  a  hundred  feet  into  the  air 
and  producing  a  commotion  of  the  sea  sensible  two 
miles  away,  and  soon  after  followed  by  a  noise  like 
distant  thunder.  Most  truly  sublime  were  both  spec- 
tacle and  catastrophe  I  Icebergs  are  regarded  as  very 
dangerous  both  by  the  Esquimaux  and  by  experienced 
Arctic  travelers,  and  are  given  a  wide  berth. 

Moving  on  at  a  low  speed,  the  steamer  was  finally 
boarded  by  a  white  man  attended  by  an  Esquimaux,  the 
former  introducing  himself  as  Mr.  Gleichen,  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Godhaven,  Lively,  or  Disco,  as  the  capital  is 
variously  called.    The  vessel  was  soon  twisted  through 


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NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.       71 


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tlio  narrow  opening  bcliind  which  the  town  lies,  and 
the  voyagers  found  themselves  in  the  snuggest  and 
smallest  harbor,  for  its  dej^th  of  water,  that  any  of  the 
party  had  ever  scjn.  On  one  side  were  the  high  cliffs, 
barren  and  rugged,  and  on  the  other  the  few  habita- 
tions whicli  constituted  tiio  place,  the  only  dwellings 
presenting  an  appearance  of  anything  more  than  squal- 
id huts  being  those  of  the  governor  and  of  the  in- 
spector, a  Mr.  Smith  Besides  the  dwellings,  there 
were  several  warehouses  and  a  church,  all  of  wood. 
The  huts  of  the  natives  were  to  some  extent  of  wood, 
but  strengthened  and  made  warm  by  thick  walls  of 
sod  reaching  to  the  eaves. 

Greely,  Kislingbury,  and  Lockwood  immediately 
went  ashore  to  visit  the  inspector,  whose  house  stood 
near  the  water  and  presented  a  neat  appearance. 
Within  they  found  quite  an  air  of  comfort  and  refine- 
ment. A  piano,  a  small  billiard-table,  a  well-filled 
book-case,  carpets,  pictures,  and  many  other  evidences 
of  civilization  and  even  elegance  were  there.  They 
found  the  wife  of  the  inspector  very  pleasant  and 
speaking  English  fluently,  while  her  daughter  and  a 
governess,  though  speaking  English  with  difficulty, 
were  well  dressed  and  ladylike.  After  taking  wine 
with  these  hospitable  ladies,  the  lieutenants  left  their 
commander  to  continue  the  conversation  and  wandered 
forth  to  view  the  town.  Passing  without  mishap  sev- 
eral cross-looking  Esquimaux  dogs,  they  found  them- 
selves in  what  seemed  a  carpenter's  shop,  on  the  large, 
bare  floor  of  which  a  dance  was  in  progress.  After 
playing  spectators  for  some  time  they  indulged  in  a 


j } 


72 


FARTUEST  NORTH. 


II'' I 


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waltz  with  tho  prettiest  p^irls  in  the  room,  and  were 
surprised  and  pleased  to  find  liow  well  they  got  alon;^ 
together.  Their  round  dances  were  found  to  ho  like, 
many  figures  of  tho  ** German"  as  danced  in  tho 
United  States.  Kislingbury  gave  tho  natives  an  ex- 
hibition of  the  Indian  daucc^  and  thus  became  a  fa- 
vorite witli  them. 

Tho  dress  of  tho  men  consisted  of  a  pair  of  scal- 
ekin  pantaloons  and  a  woolen  or  checked  shirt.  That 
of  the  women  was  very  peculiar — indeed,  unique.  Ono 
of  the  girls,  whose  dress  may  bo  taken  to  illustrate  all, 
wore  a  pair  of  seal-skin  pantalets  bound  at  the  hips  by 
a  red  scarf  and  terminating  just  above  the  knees, 
where  they  met  tho  white  canvas  tops  of  a  pair  of 
boots,  or  rather  leggings.  These  reached  to  the  calf, 
and  there  met  the  tops  of  red  seal-skin  bootlets,  into 
which  they  were  inserted.  These  leggings  were 
starched  and  prettily  fringed  at  tho  top,  and  their 
color  indicated  the  state  as  to  matrimony  of  the 
wearer,  white  being  reserved  for  maidens,  and  colors 
for  those  that  were  married.  This  distinction  was 
afterward  found  to  be  general.  The  pantalets  were 
plain,  except  some  red  leather  pieces  sewed  on  in  front 
by  way  of  ornament.  Tho  upper  garment  consisted 
of  a  pretty,  fancy-colored  cassock,  or  jacket,  extending 
barely  to  the  hips,  replaced  in  cold  weather  by  the 
same  of  seal-skin  with  a  hood.  The  upper  part  of  the 
jacket  was  concealed  by  a  necklace,  or  rather  by  sev- 
eral necklaces,  sewed  together  flat,  which  formed  a 
collar  covering  the  bosom  and  shoulders.  The  head 
was  covered  by  a  kind  of  chaplot  formed  of  fancy- 


I 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLLV  DAY.       73 


colored  cloth,  and  tlio  li»air  was  done  up  in  a  queue, 
which  extended  upward  and  backward  from  the  top 
of  the  head,  and  was  tied  with  colored  ribbon.  Tho 
wrists  and  neck  were  encircled  witli  boas  of  dark-col- 
ored furs,  which  contrasted  well  with  the  bright-col- 
ored ekin.  Tho  arms  wero  bare  to  tho  short  sleeves 
of  tho  jacket,  and  on  tlio  fingers  wero  a  number  of 
rings.     So  much  for  tho  Disco  belles  I 

The  dancing  oflieers  did  not  reach  their  ship  until 
after  midnight,  and  soon  after  the  sun  rose,  flood- 
ing all  nature  with  his  glorious  light,  and  seemingly 
affecting  natives  and  strangers  alike,  for  botli  wero 
eoen  standing  around  to  admiro  and  enjoy  tho  bene- 
diction of  nature. 

Inspector  Smith  visited  tho  steamer,  dressed  in  a 
military  coat  with  brass  buttons,  and  military  cap  with 
wide  gold-laco  band,  but  wearing  seal-skin  trousers. 
Tho  strangers  soon  found  themselves  surrounded  by  a 
fleet  of  Esquimaux  boats,  called  kj/acksj  resembling  in 
form  a  cigar  cut  in  half  lengthwise  and  turned  up  at 
both  ends.  Tho  framework  of  wood  was  covered  with 
seal-skin  with  tho  hair  removed.  In  the  center  was  a 
hole  i'  to  which  tho  occupant  inserted  the  lower  part  of 
his  bod  J  to  the  hips,  drawing  up  at  the  same  time  a  cy- 
lindrical piece  of  seal-skin  which  was  attached  to  tlio 
rim  of  the  hole.  When  the  top  of  this  is  gathered  n^p 
and  secured  over  his  chest,  the  man  and  boat  ar?^  practi- 
cally one,  and  both  are  water-proof  under  all  circum- 
stances. The  upper  surface  of  the  kyack  in  but  an 
inch  or  two  above  the  water  when  smooth,  and  when 
rough,  of  course  it  is  frequently  submerged  en  lirely. 


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liii 


74 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


In  this  craft  the  kyacker  braves  the  billows  of  the 
open  sea,  and,  provided  with  lance  and  harpoon  to 
slay  his  game,  and  bladder  and  rope  to  mark  its 
flight  when  struck  and  buoy  up  its  body  when  killed, 
he  attacks  the  seal,  walrus,  or  even  the  narwhal.  In 
South  Greenland,  where  there  is  more  open  water, 
the  kyackcrs  become  very  expert,  and,  by  means  of 
their  short,  two-bladed  paddles,  can  easily  right  them- 
selves when  upset,  or  even  perform  a  complete  revolu- 
tion without  changing  position  or  posture. 

On  Sunday,  the  17th,  I  lieutenant  Lockwood  called 
on  the  govern'^rj  and  then  went  into  many  of  the 
houses  of  the  place  ;  he  found  the  nativer,  polite  and 
hospitable,  living  in  clean,  well-built  huts,  whose  in- 
terior presented  nothing  peculiar  except  that  about 
one  third  of  the  floor  was  raised  a  few  feet,  constitut- 
ing a  platform,  which  was  used  as  the  sleeping-couch 
of  the  whole  family  by  night,  and  by  day  as  a  place 
of  deposit  for  articles  in  daily  use.  The  walls  were 
adorned  with  roagh  prints  or  illustracions  from  Euro- 
pean and  American  papers.  In  one  house  was  seen  a 
translation  of  the  Psalms  into  Esquimaux.  Their  words 
are  run  together,  as  in  the  German  language.  Lock- 
wood  made  some  purchases,  giving  in  return  an  old 
pj*Ir  of  pantaloons,  old  clothes  being  a  circulating  me- 
dium, and  preferred  to  money.  He  was  surprised  to 
find  that  these  people  had  a  paper  currency,  the  units 
being  the  ocre  and  the  crown,  one  hundred  ocres 
making  one  crown,  while  the  crown  is  worth  about  an 
English  shilling.  In  dealing  with  one  another,  the 
ocre  seems  to  go  a  good  way,  but  not  so  when  a 


K 


I 


L:^ 


i 


I 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN   BAY.       75 

stranger  is  dealt  with  ;  and  to  do  much  shopping  with 
this  currency,  one  must  carry  a  load  of  paper  equal  to 
what  was  required  of  Confederate  currency  in  war- 
times to  buy  a  barrel  of  flour.  The  coins  were  of 
copper,  valued  each  at  five  ocres. 

On  the  following  day.  Lieutenants  Grcely,  Kis- 
lingbury,  and  Lockwood,  all  dined  at  four  o'clock 
with  the  inspector's  family,  by  invitation  of  his  wife, 
in  the  absence  of  her  husband  on  official  duty ;  the 
courses  being  souji,  fish,  eider-duck,  and  canned  green 
peas,  with  a  dessert  of  jelly  ;  wines  and  brandy  being 
served  with  the  courses.  The  cooking  and  serving 
were  excellent,  the  waitress  an  Esquimaux  damsel  in 
pantalets.  Afterward,  with  others,  they  called  on  the 
governor,  and  with  him  went  down  to  witness  a  dunce. 
Lockwood  learned  that  the  population  of  the  two 
divisions  of  North  and  South  Greenland  together  was 
about  nine  thousand  souls. 

Ou  the  19th,  at  the  request  of  Lieutenant  Greely, 
Lockwood  made  an  exploration  of  the  mountain-cliffs 
south  of  the  town.  After  a  long  tramp  over  the 
Boggy  moss,  and  up  steep  cliUs,  much  annoyed  by  in- 
numerable mosquitoes,  he  returned  to  dinner,  with 
very  little  information  worthy  of  mention.  After 
superintending  some  stowage,  he  again  called  to  sec 
Mrs.  Smith,  the  inspector's  wife,  and  enjoyed  her  ex- 
cellent piano-music,  to  say  nothing  of  the  wine  and 
cigars  she  offered.  Then  he  went  to  the  dance, 
but  not  until  after  the  men  had  left.  These 
Greenland  dances,  as  already  intimated,  resemble 
the   Virginia    reel,   differing    only  in   the  alternate 


i( 


'«■'■   I' 


76 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


i   !  ' 


*  '■' 


II  «!-! 


chasing  of  the  partners  through  the  two  rows  till 
caught. 

Having  completed  their  stowage  and  coaling,  and 
having  taken  on  board  fourteen  dogs  with  their  food, 
tliey  would  have  left  Disco  but  for  the  fogs.  Dr. 
Pavy,  who  had  been  left  there  by  Ilowgate,  joined  the 
party  on  the  20th,  as  surgeon,  as  Mr.  Clay  was  ex- 
pected to  do  at  Ritenbank.  They  had  some  music 
on  the  chapel  organ  in  the  evening,  which  was  well 
rendered. 

The  penning  of  the  dogs  was  a  scene  of  excitement 
and  amusement.  Their  snarling  and  biting  and  fight- 
ing had  no  end  until  one  of  the  number  present  was 
acknowledged,  for  his  prowess  and  valor,  the  victor  by 
all  the  others.  Then  the  battle  ceased,  but  only  un- 
til there  was  a  new  arrival,  when  the  battle  was  re- 
newed and  the  parvenu  put  hors  de  combat ^  or  declared 
king.  In  due  time  the  steamer  left  Disco,  and  arrived 
at  Ritenbank  between  10  and  12  A.  m.  The  harbor 
was  found  to  be  quite  roomy  and  the  entrance  wide 
and  deep ;  icebergs  float  into  it,  and  thus  render 
Ritenbank  less  desirable  as  a  harbor  than  Disco. 
While  there,  with  Mr.  Clay  (who  now  joined  the  ex- 
pedition) and  some  of  the  men,  Lockwood  visited  the 
neighboring  bird  mountains  or  looneries,  rowing  up  a 
fiord  some  three  miles  distant.  The  approach  to  these 
was  manifested  by  the  commotion  among  the  innumer- 
able eider-ducks  and  other  wild  fowl  flying  overhead, 
swimming  in  the  water  around,  or  occupying  the  ntir- 
row  ledges  of  the  vertical  cliffs  on  either  side,  some 
of  which  were  five  hundred  feet  hicrh  and  covered  witu 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.       77 


birds.  The  shot  used  being  too  small,  would  kill  only 
at  short  range,  and  it  was  ditficult  to  obtain  the  game  ; 
consequently  they  got  only  seventy  fowls  of  various 
kinds.  On  their  return  they  visited  an  Innuit 
burying  -  ground,  which,  from  its  antiquity,  must 
contain  many  of  the  natives,  whose  blood  is  much 
purer  than  that  of  the  present  stock  ;  for  it  is  said  the 
present  Esquimaux  blood  is  now  very  much  mixed. 
The  graves  were  oblong  piles  of  lichen-covered  stones, 
containing  the  moldering  skeletons,  which  were  gener- 
ally in  a  sitting  posture.  But  little  regard  is  paid  to 
the  dead  in  Greenland.  Influenza,  and  consumption 
induced  thereby,  are  rapidly  carrying  off  the  natives, 
and  this  is  increased  by  uncleanly  habits,  improper 
food,  and  bad  ventilation,  the  latter  aggravated  by  the 
introduction  of  small  stoves  into  their  close  houses. 
The  present  longevity,  it  is  said,  averages  thirty-three 
years. 

The  prevailing  fogs  greatly  decreased  the  pleasure 
the  explorers  would  have  had  in  viewing  the  grand  scen- 
ery in  the  passage  to  Upernavik,  which  they  reached 
on  the  23d  of  July,  or  in  about  fifteen  days  from 
Newfoundland.  They  had  in  sight  numbers  of  ice- 
bergs, some  of  immense  size.  The  whole  western  coast 
of  Greenland  is  skirted  with  islands,  separated  from 
each  other  and  the  mainland  by  deep  fiords.  If  it 
were  not  for  the  fogs,  a  pleasant  summer  excursion 
could  be  made  through  these  fiords  to  the  everlasting 
barrier  of  glaciers,  which  render  the  interior  a  veritable 
land  of  desolation. 

Very  soon   after  the   exped.  Jon   had  arrived  at 


i 

■  it 


\h 


78 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Upemavik,  it  was  found  necessary  for  some  one  to  go 
to  a  place  called  Proven,  to  obtain  Esquimaux  guides 
and  a  supply  of  Arctic  clothing,  and  to  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  was  assigned  this  duty.  lie  and  his  help- 
ers boarded  the  steam-launch,  and,  with  Governor 
Elburg  as  guide,  proceeded  on  their  way  through  an 
inner  passage  leading  to  the  place  of  dcst  nation. 
Their  course  lay  along  rocky  and  precipitous  ci'.S''^, 
many  of  them  covered  with  auks  and  other  wild  fowl. 
The  cliffs  attained  an  elevation  of  two  and  three  thou- 
sand feet,  and  were  so  smooth  and  regular  as  to  have 
the  appearance  of  having  been  made  by  man.  With- 
out any  shore  whatever,  large  ships  could  lie  alongside 
in  safety.  On  their  arrival  at  Proven,  they  saw  the 
whole  population  in  their  picturesque  costumes  lining 
the  shore,  to  view  what  they  had  never  seen  before — a 
craft  moving  witliout  oars  or  sails. 

Near  the  shore  were  located  four  large  warehouses 
where  seal-oil  was  deposited  before  shipment,  and 
where  also  were  kept  by  the  Danish  Government  sup- 
plies of  provisions  for  issue  to  the  natives  in  case  of 
emergency.  The  liuts  of  tno  natives  were  found  still 
more  primitive  than  those  at  Disco,  for  here  the  en- 
trance was  through  a  long,  low  gallery,  requiring  one  to 
grope  in  darkness  almost  on  hands  and  knees.  Lock- 
wood  softened  the  heart  of  the  occupant  of  one  by 
presents  of  tobacco,  and  induced  him  to  play  on  his 
liddio  .imple  airs  which  he  had  picked  up  from  whal- 
ing-crews. This  brought  in  all  the  damsels  of  the 
towT>,  RU'J  soon  ■'ciltzes  and  other  dances  prevnilcd. 


Tlio  l.atenaLt  did  not  consider  it  beneath  hi 


sajg 


nity 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FllANKLIN  BAY.       79 


-a 


>y 


■y 


to  "  show  a  iaOcI."  He  unfortunately  an^^wcrcd  affirm- 
atively to  the  question,  "Arc  you  big  captain  ?"  and 
was  also  imprudent  in  giving  an  old  lady  a  half-dozen 
ocres.  lie  was  at  once  pounced  upon  by  every  one  as 
lawful  prey,  and,  what  through  begging,  extortion, 
and  other  means,  the  "big  captain"  was  soon  rid  of 
all  his  change,  and  might  have  been  reduced  to  a 
state  of  nudity  but  for  the  timely  arrival  of  the  gov- 
ernor, who  took  him  home  to  dine  and  to  lodge.  The 
Boup,  though  sweet  to  the  taste,  was  good  ;  floating  in 
it  were  lemon-peel  and  raisins.  Next  came  reindeer- 
steaks  cooked  in  wine  and  most  delicious.  Potatoes 
were  the  only  vegetable.  Cooking  and  serving  excel- 
lent. Brandy,  >eer,  and  wine  in  profusion.  The  meal 
terminated  by  a  general  hand-shaking,  according  to 
custom,  and  the  governor  kissed  his  wife.  The  lodg- 
ing was  equally  agreeable,  affording  the  luxury  of  a 
clean  feather  bed.  In  the  morning,  an'l  while  yet  in 
bed,  a  young  Esquimaux  damsel  in  pai  ilets  brought 
the  American  a  cup  of  strong  coffee  w'  1  a  few  crack- 
ers. That  day  he  took  on  board  t,  _  launch  two 
Esquimaux,  Erederick  Christiansen  nd  Jans  Ed- 
wards, lashing  their  kyacks  behind,  ai  0  the  seal-skin, 
dog-skin,  and  other  clothing  they  ad  come  for,  and 
at  midnight  left  amid  the  hearty  cheers  of  the  natives 
and  the  tears  and  lamentations  of  tiie  friends  of  Jans 
and  Frederick  who  had  come  to  see  them  off. 

After  an  uneventful  passage,  and  stopping  only  to 
add  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  birds  to  their 
lardei',  the  launch  reached  the  ship  at  iO  A.  m.  on  the 
25th,     Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  a  crew  in  the 


A  i 
ill 


U  4 


1^ 


■^  ' 


i!    i| 


■■'  il,' 


i      ; 


i    ' 


80 


yARTHEGT  NORTH. 


whale-boat  afterward  went  to  Sanderson's  Hope  Island 
and  secured  several  hundred  more,  so  that  there  was 
no  scarcity  of  fresh  food.  In  the  mean  time  some 
new  dogs  were  secured,  so  that  the  total  number  now 
on  hand  was  thirty-two. 

The  ship  left  Upernavik  on  the  29th,  and,  keep- 
ing the  inner  passage,  made  her  way  toward  the  north. 

"While  crossing  Melville  Bay  on  the  30th,  there 
was  no  ice  in  sight  except  bergs,  and  the  sun  shone 
brightly.  That  state  of  things  was  a  great  surprise 
to  the  explorers,  as  here  it  was  that  McClintock  was 
frozen  in  for  a  whole  year,  and  Xares  congratulated 
himself  in  having  passed  the  bay  without  detention. 
Indeed,  Melville  Bay  has  always  been  regarded  as  the 
bete  noire  of  Arctic  travel.  An  Arctic  bear  found  on  a 
broken  pack  of  floating  ice  was  killed  by  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury,  and,  when  hoisted  on  board,  was  found 
to  weigh  a  thousand  pounds  and  to  measure  seven 
leet  two  inches  in  length.  They  were  probably  fifty 
miles  from  land  at  the  time. 

On  the  last  day  of  July,  the  Proteus  party  sighted 
land,  which  they  supposed  to  be  Cape  Dudley  Diggs, 
north  of  Melville's  Bay.  Much  old  floating  ice  was 
seen,  but  so  rotten  as  to  offer  no  obstruction.  Sev- 
eral seals  and  many  little  auks  were  killed  and  secured. 

About  tills  time  Lockwood  and  others  observed 
tokens  of  disrespect  and  insubordination  on  the  part 
of  some  of  the  men,  which  were  traced  to  a  certain 
corporal  as  ringleader.  Lockwood  watched  him  with 
care,  and  urged  the  propriety  of  sending  him  home 
by  the  first  opportunity,  which  was  afterward  done. 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  CAY.       81 


On  one  occasion,  toward  evening,  the  voyagers  wit- 
nessed the  overturning  of  an  iceberg  three  hundred 
feet  long  and  one  hundred  and  lifty  feet  high.  After 
capsizing,  it  continued  to  revolve  on  several  axes  for 
some  time.  Its  change  of  base  was  preceded  by  the 
fall  of  several  detached  pieces,  thus  shifting  its  center 
of  gravity. 

The  next  day,  August  1st,  was  clear  and  cool,  and 
without  fog.  Passed  Dudley  Diggs  at  noon  and  then 
steered  for  Gary  Islands,  sighting  them  three  hours 
later.  The  officers  looked  hard  for  the  crimson  cliffs 
near  Dudley  Diggs  noticed  by  ?''r  J  )hn  Kosa,  but  ob- 
served only  some  slight  discolorutioii  of  the  snow. 
The  glacier  near  this  cape  seemed  to  be  two  or 
three  miles  long ;  at  the  sea-shore,  of  inconsiderable 
height,  but  in  the  background,  attaining  an  imposing 
elevation.  The  ship's  compasses,  as  usual  in  this  lati- 
tude, were  all  crazy,  occasioning  some  bewilderment 
to  the  captain.  The  bear  and  seal  meats  were  duly 
served  on  shipboard,  and  pronounced  palatable  by 
all,  though  to  seme  the  bear-meat  was  .slightly  fishy. 
Two  boats  with  all  the  officers  and  others  landed  on 
the  most  easterly  of  the  Gary  Islands,  and  proceeded 
at  once  to  find  and  inspect  the  cache  of  provisions — 
thirty-six  hundred  rations — left  there  by  Sir  George 
Nares  for  his  own  safety.  They  were  a])parently  in 
good  condition,  notwithstanding  many  of  the  barrels 
resting  on  their  ends  afforded  opportunity  for  rain 
and  snow-water  to  enter.  Some  biscuits  were  found 
moldy.  Replaced  the  Nares  record  by  a  copy,  and  also 
left  a  full  record  of  the  Proteus.     There  was  found 


■  ii 


!  J 


V  ■ 

\  i 


m 


82 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Ill 


I  I'll 


there  an  excellent  whale-boat,  turned  bottom  upward, 
with  oars  and  sails  complete.  This  Lock  wood  urged 
Lieutenant  Greely  to  take  along,  but  he  preferred  get- 
ting the  one  at  Foulke  Point.  The  former  regarded 
the  supply  of  boats  as  too  small,  and  circumstances 
might  arise  which  would  cause  them  to  regret  not  using 
this  one.  They  had  only  the  steam-launch,  a  twenty- 
four-feet  whale-boat,  and  a  small,  fourteen-feet  row- 
boat — the  whale-boat  being  the  only  one  to  be  depend- 
ed on  in  case  of  accident.  The  boat  at  Point  Foulke 
was  thought  to  be  inferior.  They  picked  up  drift- 
wood, an  oar,  and  some  burned  pieces  of  a  ship's  stem 
or  stern.  They  also  saw  some  red  snow,  and  shot  sev- 
eral eider-ducks.  Th'>  Gary  Islands  were  found  to  be 
barren  masses  of  rocks  without  vegetation. 

The  steamer  came  to  anchor  at  Littleton  Island 
at  9  4  M.  on  the  2d  of  August,  just  as  the  steering- 
gear  gave  way.  A  party  went  to  "  Life-boat  Cove  " 
and  brought  back  a  number  of  articles  left  by  the 
Polaris  Expedition  of  1873.  They  saw  neither  Esqui- 
maux nor  reindeer,  but  shot  a  walrus.  Lieutenant 
Greely  made  an  effort  to  find  the  cairn  left  there  by 
Nares,  and  the  letters  left  for  Nares  by  the  Pandora. 
lie  found  the  letters  but  not  the  cairn,  though  there 
was  a  dismantled  cairn  afterward  seen  by  others.  Lock- 
wood  with  a  party  of  men  put  ashore  several  tons  of 
coal,  which,  as  it  had  to  be  carried  up  jome  thirty  feet 
above  the  sea  -  level,  he  found  no  easy  job.  While 
thus  engaged,  this  party  had  an  adventure  with  some 
walruses,  not  unattended  with  danger.  Ilaving  ex- 
cited a  drove  of  them  by  a  simultaneous  fire,  the 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.       83 


animals  came  toward  the  boat,  and  at  one  time  licld 
its  inmates  in  peril.  Lockwood  alone  was  prepared  to 
meet  the  foremost,  and  by  good  luck  slew  one  of  them, 
when  all  the  rest  disappeared.  The  walrus  can  bo 
killed  only  through  the  brain,  and  when  wounded, 
the  animal  is  exceedingly  ferocious.  Numberless 
boats  have  been  destroyed  by  them.  Lament  thinks 
the  walrus  superior  to  the  bear  for  food.  Those 
they  saw  were  evidently  a  female  and  her  young, 
and  their  safety  was  in  having  killed  the  mother. 
Littleton  Island  affords  a  good  illustration  of  these 
shores.  The  sides  rise  precipitously,  sometimes  in 
stej)s  composed  of  immense  cubes  of  trap-rock,  some- 
times in  steep  slopes  formed  from  the  crumbling  of 
the  same.  The  top  of  the  island  is  seven  hundred  feet 
high,  according  to  Nares,  and  generally  quite  level. 
Of  soil,  there  is  none.  The  summit  afforded  a  fine 
view  of  the  sound,  though  somewlmt  obstructed  by 
fog.  No  floating  ice  ;  and  the  western  coast  with  its 
snowy  mountains  quite  distinct. 

Having  crossed  the  strait  during  the  night  of  the 
2d  of  August,  in  the  early  morning  they  ran  along  the 
western  coast,  which  was  very  distinct  and  pictur- 
esque, the  bluffs  and  headlands  being  reflected  by  the 
smooth  sea.  Striking  the  western  coast  near  Cape  Sa- 
bine, at  8  A.  M.  they  reached  Cape  llawkes,  a  headland 
over  a  thousand  feet  high  and  very  picturesque.  While 
Lieutenants  Grecly  and  Kislingbury  visited  the  cairn 
there,  Dr.  Pavy  and  Lieutenant  Lockwood  went  to  find 
the  record  on  Washington  Irving  Island,  both  left  by 
Nares.    They  then  continue!  their  way  with  slight  in- 


!  I 


8^ 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


tcrrnptions  from  fogs  until  abreast  of  Franklin  Island, 
when  they  were  obliged  to  lay-to  becanao  of  fog. 
They  had  not  been  delayed  a  moment  by  ice,  and 
were  snri)rised  to  sec  so  little  of  it.  Their  success  em- 
boldened them  to  hope  that  they  might  reach  Lady 
Franklin  Bay  without  obstruction.  Indeed,  they 
even  thought  of  inducing  Captain  Pike  to  run  on 
until  he  reached  the  north  pole  itself,  or  at  least  till 
ho  attained  a  higher  latitude  than  did  Karcd.  Ono 
of  the  dogs  having  died,  they  became  impressed  with 
the  thought  that  the  poor  curs  su tiered  much  from 
being  cooped  up  and  from  the  damp  weather.  The 
party  continued  on  their  way  up  Kennedy  Channel 
with  everything  favorable,  having  the  finest  weather 
yet  seen ;  air  soft  and  balmy,  sky  clear,  and  water 
smooth. 

On  reaching  the  vicinity  of  Franklin  Island  and 
Carl  Ritter  Bay,  they  left  there  a  small  deposit  of 
hard  bread,  pemmican,  and  rum,  and  continued  on 
their  way  rejoicing  ;  and  so  onward  until  nearly  10 
p.  M.,  when,  just  above  Cai)e  Lieber,  they  encountered 
an  impenetrable  pack  extending  all  the  way  across 
the  channel,  and  as  far  ahead  as  tliev  could  see.  The 
ship  made  a  savage  dash  at  it,  but  in  vain,  and  thus, 
but  eight  miles  from  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  and  with 
Cape  Baird  in  full  vie\r,  they  were  brought  to  a  stand- 
still. The  mountains  along  the  coast  were  covered 
with  snow,  but  the  valleys  and  low  places  were  bare. 
The  prominent  objects  of  the  landscape  were  all  dis- 
tinctly seen  from  their  position — Capes  Lieber  and 
Baird  on  the  left,  Franklin,  Hans,  and  llanna  Islands 


rii! 


NEWFOUNDLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAV.       85 


in  the  rear  and  left,  and,  in  tlic  far  distance,  Polaris 
Promontory  and  Petcrmann's  Fiord,  with  tho  placier 
beyond.  A  party  that  went  on  shore  saw  traces  of  tho 
musk-ox,  but  no  animals  were  seen. 

Several  of  tiie  ofliccrH  and  men  attempted  tho  as- 
cent of  the  promontory  of  Cape  Lieber,  a  prccij)itoud 
cliff  three  thousand  feet  high,  which  seemed  but  a 
stone's  throw  away,  but  to  reach  which  required  a  long, 
cold  row,  and  then  a  fatiguing  and  painful  climb. 
Lock  wood  and  two  only  of  the  party  succeeded.  Tho 
difliculty  was  in  the  giving  way  of  the  crumbling 
slate-rock,  which  formed  an  incline  of  45°.  Those 
that  reached  tho  summit  were  rewarded  by  a  grand 
view,  extending  to  the  limit  of  vision.  On  their  re- 
turn, after  clambering  over  some  rocks  cropping  out  of 
the  slippery  snow  and  ice,  they  chose  a  short  cut  and 
came  down  at  a  run,  or  rather  slide,  followed  by  a 
miniature  avalanche  of  debris.  On  the  Gth  of  August, 
it  was  found  that  tho  icy  barrier,  which  evidently 
came  from  the  Polar  Sea,  was  moving  south,  carrying 
the  steamer  along.  Some  game  was  seen  in  both  air 
and  water,  but  none  taken.  Parties  attempted  to 
reach  the  shore  on  the  ice,  but  were  recalled  by  signal, 
as  moving  ice  was  seen  from  the  ship,  and  also  open 
water  near  the  shore. 

From  this  point  they  slowly  drifted  south,  with 
high  winds  from  the  north  which  opened  up  lanes  of 
water  which  they  did  not  think  safe  to  enter.  The 
total  drift  amounted  to  ten  miles.  With  the  low- 
ering of  temperature,  it  was  suggested  that  it  would 
be  well  to  move  across  the  channel,  along  the  pack. 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MStO 

(716)873-4503 


ni" 


V         I 


I'  I 


m 


8G 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


and,  if  needful,  land  on  the  Greenland  shore,  possi- 
bly where  llall  had  wintered. 

On  the  11th  of  August,  the  ice  barrier  gave  way 
under  a  change  of  wind  and  weather,  leaving  the 
passage  open.  Under  full  steam  and  sail,  and  with 
beautiful  weather,  they  soon  regained  all  tho  distance 
they  had  lost  by  drift,  passed  Cape  Lieber,  and  came 
abreast  of  Capo  Baird.  Thence  forcing  their  way 
through  tho  broken  ice  of  tho  bay,  and  reaching 
Bellot  Island,  which  marks  the  beginning  of  Discov- 
ery Harbor,  tliey  cut  their  way  to  a  secure  spot  for 
the  ship  to  rest  in.  And  thus  ended  the  voyage  to 
Lady  Franklin  Bay  or  Sound.  As  this  harbor,  or 
a  spot  in  its  vicinity  called  Fort  Conger,  was  tho 
one  where  the  Signal-Service  station  was  to  be  es- 
tablished, the  steamer  Proteus  here  ended  her  voy- 
age, soon  to  return  to  Newfoundland.  Discovery 
Harbor,  which  was  to  be  their  home,  is  an  indenta- 
tion of  the  bay  covered  by  Bellot  Island  on  the  south. 
This  indentation  extends  cast  and  west  some  ten 
miles,  and  is  probably  two  or  three  miles  from  north 
to  south.  Inclosing  the  harbor  on  three  sides  is  a 
line  of  rugged  bluffs  and  hills  (or  rather  mountains, 
for  they  are  two  thousand  feet  high),  those  on  tho 
east  side  sloping  back  gradually,  but  elsewhere  pre- 
cipitous and  rugged  in  the  extreme.  Thus,  with  Bel- 
lot's  Island  fifteen  hundred  feet  high  on  the  south, 
was  formed  a  harbor,  landlocked  and  most  admirably 
sheltered. 


VIII. 


nOUSE-BUILDINa   AND    LOCAL  EXPLORA- 
TIONS. 

Immediately  after  tho  explorers  liad  anchored 
their  ship  in  Discovery  Harbor,  they  saw  a  droye  of 
musk-oxen  leisurely  ascending  the  neighboring  hills, 
which  they  climbed  with  the  facility  of  goats.  This 
was  indeed  a  cheerful  prospect  for  men  in  so  isolated  a 
region  and  without  fresh  meat,  and  many  of  them 
started  forthwith  in  pursuit  of  the  game,  working 
their  way  to  the  shore  on  tho  ice,  but  were  com- 
pelled to  return  after  a  vain  attempt  to  follow  tho 
animals  over  tho  hills. 

Hitherto  there  had  been  no  opportunity  to  mako 
any  special  discoveries,  but  now  a  comparatively  new 
field,  to  which  the  explorers  were  to  devote  all  their 
energies,  came  into  view.  Discovery,  however,  was  to 
be  always  subordinated  to  the  duties  of  meteorological 
observations.  As  this  narrative  proceeds,  it  will  bo 
seen  that  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  not  only  emi- 
nently active  at  all  times,  but  most  successful  as  an 
explorer. 

It  being  desirable  to  establish  the  station  as  near 
as  possible  to  tho  coal-mine  on  Watercourse  Bay,  Lock- 
wood  was  dispatched  with  Messrs.  Clay  and  Ryan,  to 


i 


t^ 


\''M-i 


Ai 


88 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Ill: 


report  as  to  the  practicability  of  carrying  out  this,  the 
original  intention.  According  to  the  map  prepared  by 
Nares,  this  bay  lies  seven  miles  distrnt  on  the  strait, 
and  is  separated  from  Discovery  Harbor  by  the  mount- 
ain-ridge on  the  east,  which  terminates  southward  in 
Distant  Cape.  They  attempted  the  passage  across  these 
hills,  following  a  ravine  leading  in  the  proper  direc- 
tion, and  had  gone  only  a  short  distance  when  they 
saw  seven  musk-oxen  quietly  grazing.  Making  a  d^ 
touVy  they  thought  to  take  them  unawares,  but  soon 
saw  them  move  away  to  some  distance  up  a  steep  in- 
cline. Expending  vainly  a  few  shots  at  long  range, 
they  followed  the  animals  up  the  hill,  over  a  steep  ledge 
of  rocks,  and  into  a  valley  on  the  other  side.  Here  the 
men  halted,  concealed  from  view,  and  arranged  plans 
for  their  capture.  The  animals  were  covered  by  pre- 
cipitous rocks  on  one  side.  Clay,  Ryan,  and  Lock- 
wood  approached  them  simultaneously  on  the  other 
three  sides,  and  thus  had  them  surrounded  and  at 
their  mercy.  Some  depressions  and  other  irregulari- 
ties of  the  ground  enabled  the  hunters,  by  crouching 
low  down,  to  approach  the  game  unawares.  Clay 
firing  first,  the  whole  herd  rushed  toward  Lockwood's 
side,  closing  up  as  it  came,  and,  seeing  him,  made 
a  charge.  Dropping  on  one  knee,  he  threw  his  car- 
tridges down  and  blazed  away  with  great  rapidity. 
Many  shots  telling,  the  animals  halted  before  him 
only  a  few  rods  off,  and  at  once  attempted  a  flank 
movement ;  but  now  Clay  and  liyan  closing  up,  the 
herd  was  check-mated.  In  five  minutes  from  the 
first  shot  every  animal  of  the  herd — five  grown  and 


nOUSE-BUILDING  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.     89 


two  calves — lay  dead  before  the  hunters.  The  hunt- 
ers were  sorry  they  had  killed  the  calves,  but  in  the 
excitement  it  could  hardly  have  been  otherwise.  They 
then  returned  to  the  ship  to  report  their  success,  and 
to  have  the  carcasses  brought  in.  This  addition  to 
their  larder  was  the  occasion  of  great  joy,  not  only  as 
giving  a  present  supply  of  fresh  meat,  but  in  its 
promise  for  the  future  ;  not  only  as  a  luxury,  but  as 
the  only  certain  means  of  warding  off  the  scurvy,  so 
much  and  so  justly  dreaded  by  Arctic  explorers. 

After  supper  of  that  day,  Lockwood,  ever  ready 
for  adventure,  again  started  for  Watercourse  Bay, 
accompanied  by  Clay,  Ralston,  and  the  mate  of  the 
Proteus.  Following  the  small  stream,  which  came 
into  the  harbor  at  this  point,  for  three  miles,  by  an 
easy  and  regular  ascent  between  lofty  mountains  on 
either  side  with  a  slope  of  about  forty-five  degrees, 
and  over  ground  and  patches  of  snow  thrown  up  like 
potato-hills,  they  reached  its  head,  and  there,  fortu- 
lately,  found  another  stream  running  in  the  other 
direction.  Following  this,  they  were  brought  to 
Watercourse  Creek,  which  runs  into  W"atcrcourse  Bav. 
Being  uncertain  whether  the  coal-mine,  said  to  be 
on  this  creek,  wad  above  or  below  this  point,  they 
followed  the  creek  up-stream  three  miles,  when,  not 
finding  it,  they  retraced  their  steps  to  the  point 
where  they  entered  the  creek,  and,  finding  it  im- 
possible to  follow  the  bed,  climbed  the  bank.  Here 
they  saw  two  more  musk-oxen,  which  they  slew  by 
strategy  as  before,  and,  opening  the  carcasses  with 
penknives,  left  them  to  bo  carried  in.     Coming  near 


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FARTHEST  NORTH. 


the  mouth  of  the  creek,  Lockwood  saw  indications  of 
coaly  and  soon  after  reached  the  exposed  seam  of  one 
hundred  yards*  extent  by  twenty-five  feet  depth,  dis- 
tant about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  sea.  This 
coal  is  said  to  equal  the  best  of  Welsh  production. 
Near  here,  they  saw  another  musk-ox,  whose  life 
they  spared  for  the  time,  as  they  had  so  much  meat 
in  store.  Lockwood  found,  and  so  reported,  that, 
though  Watercourse  Bay  had  the  merit  of  a  near  coal- 
mine, and  was  nearer  the  grounds  of  future  explora- 
tions, it  was  not  possible  to  use  it  at  once  for  tlie  un- 
loading ship  without  great  risk  and  labor  because  of 
moving  ice.  Discovery  Harbor,  though  full  of  ice 
from  sixteen  inches  to  ten  feet  thick,  was  perfectly 
landlocked  and  unobstructed.  Ealston  preceded  the 
party  home,  killing  one  musk-ox  en  route.  The  Arc- 
tic summer  was  now  at  its  height,  lichen,  moss,  saxi- 
frage, and  various  other  little  red,  yellow,  and  blue 
flowers,  bright  red  moss,  and  tufts  of  green  grass  at 
intervals,  breaking  the  monotony  of  the  somber  rocks 
and  earth.  But  the  enjoyment  of  these  beauties  of 
nature  could  not  then  be  indulged  in,  as  all  hands  had 
to  take  part  in  unloading  the  ship,  a  labor  which  was 
soon  accomplished. 

The  next  business  in  order  with  the  explorers  was 
to  build  a  house,  and  they  selected  a  site  facing  the 
water,  fifty  feet  from,  and  fifteen  feet  above  it.  While 
this  work  was  progressing,  the  men  lived  in  tents. 

On  the  19th  of  August,  ail  hands  were  sent  ashore, 
and  the  Proteus  started  on  her  return,  but,  passing  too 
near  Bellot  Island  for  safety,  was  caught  in  the  ice  and 


HOUSR-BUILDINQ  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.     01 


delayed.  Lockwood  made  an  effort  to  follow  in  her 
wake  with  the  steam-launch,  but  failed,  because  of  the 
rapid  closing  in  of  the  great  masses  of  broken  ice  and 
the  wedging  of  small  ice-masses  into  the  screw  and 
well.  The  launch  battled  manfully  with  her  foe,  the 
ice.  Frequently  he  ran  her  under  a  full  head  of  steam 
against  a  massive  floe,  which  would  be  shivered  for 
a  few  inches,  the  recoil  causing  the  launch  to  roll 
and  pitch  like  a  little  giant.  In  young  ice  she  would 
sometimes  split  a  sheet  for  ten  or  fifteen  yards  at  one 
impact. 

Finding  nothing  to  do  while  the  house-building 
was  progressing.  Lieutenants  Lockwood  and  Kisling- 
bury  occupied  themselves  with  tramping  after  ptar- 
migans and  other  game  over  the  mountains  whose 
steep  sides  formed  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  har- 
bor, and  the  northern  boundary.  Viewed  from  the 
house,  their  sides  seemed  gradual  and  their  summits 
not  over  twenty  minutes'  walk.  In  fact,  however,  the 
sides  were  successions  of  slopes  separated  by  preci- 
pices, growing  greater  with  the  ascent.  What  below 
seemed  the  top  was  only  one  of  many  that  must  be 
passed  before  the  real  summit  or  divide  could  be  at- 
tained. They  reached  the  summit  marked  by  the 
English  cairn,  and  from  there  viewed  the  scene  below. 
How  small  the  ship  appeared  !  and  yet  it  seemed  as 
though  they  could  throw  a  stone  upon  her.  They 
reached  home  with  wolfish  appetites,  but  with  no 
game.  The  ptarmigans,  which  they  chiefly  sought, 
are  provided,  at  this  season,  with  a  coat  so  nearly 
resembling  the  shade  of  the  rocks  and  grounds  as  to 


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be  almost  indistinguishable.  By  a  happy  provision  of 
nature,  in  winter  the  feathers  of  this  bird  become 
white  with  only  a  little  black  about  the  tail. 

The  lieutenants  then  extended  their  excursions 
over  the  mountains  on  the  north  side  of  the  harbor, 
availing  themselves  of  a  ravine,  called  the  **  Black 
Canon,*'  which  leads  to  a  pretty  waterfall.  Climbing 
out  of  this  canon  with  difficulty  over  loose  slate  and 
other  debris,  they  found  themselves  on  the  high  back- 
grounds of  the  North  Mountains.  Thence  moving 
west  over  loose  rock  and  snow,  and  through  pools  of 
water,  they  finally  came  in  sight  of  Musk-ox  Bay,  the 
western  extremity  of  Discovery  Harbor.  They  then 
retraced  their  steps,  reaching  home  without  having 
seen  a  living  object  bigger  than  an  humble-bee. 

On  the  23d,  the  house  was  occupied,  though  not 
finished.  Looking  after  their  supplies,  they  found 
that  the  foxes  had  made  free  with  the  carcasses  of  the 
musk-oxen  left  near  Watercourse  Bay.  Lockwood  now 
proceeded  to  superintend  the  laying  out  of  the  observ- 
atory, digging  for  foundation  pier  of  transit,  etc.  He 
found  the  ground  frozen  after  reaching  thirty  inches, 
which  may  be  taken  as  the  depth  where  perpetual 
frost  begins.  The  ship  being  still  detained,  but  with 
a  prospect  of  soon  getting  off,  Lockwood  wrote  more 
letters  home  in  which  he  expressed  an  opinion  about 
the  Proteus.  Her  chances  of  departing  south  were 
doubtful.  Detention  there  for  the  winter  would  be 
embarrassing  all  around,  as  neither  the  ship  nor  her 
crew  were  prepared  to  stay,  nor  the  explorers  able  to 
help  them  through  the  winter. 


UOUSE-BUILDIXO  AND  LOaOi  EXPLORATIONS.     93 


Just  before  her  final  departure,  some  difficulty 
arose  between  Lieutenants  Grcely  and  Kislingbury, 
which  ended  in  the  latter  making  a  request  to  be  re- 
lieved from  duty  with  the  expedition,  which  request 
was  granted.  One  of  tlio  annoyances  complained  of 
was  the  rule  that  officers  should  rise  in  the  morning 
with  the  men,  and  although  Lockwood  advised  Kis- 
lingbury not  to  make  any  further  trouble,  he  decided 
to  pack  up,  board  the  Proteus,  and  return  home. 
In  this,  however,  he  was  not  successful,  as  the  steamer 
got  away  before  he  could  reach  her,  and  the  order  for 
his  relief  was  somewhat  modified.  After  explaining 
his  action  in  this  matter.  Lieutenant  Greely  remarked 
that,  if  anything  should  happen  to  him,  he  desired 
that  Lieutenant  Lockwood  should  have  command  of 
the  expedition.  Lockwood  expressed  himself  as  very 
sorry  for  what  his  fellow-officer  had  done,  and  could 
not  understand  his  course  of  action. 

As  soon  as  the  building  was  entirely  finished,  on 
the  27th  of  August,  the  explorers  found  themselves 
very  comfortable.  The  dull,  cheerless  weather  and 
monotonous  life  were  beginning  to  depress  the  spirits 
of  Lockwood,  but  he  felt  that,  when  settled  down  to 
regular  habits,  he  would  not  find  the  life  in  the  north 
more  irksome  than  that  he  had  experienced  on  the 
"Western  plains  of  the  United  States.  It  may  be  men- 
tioned that  the  final  opening  of  the  house,  or  govern- 
ment station,  was  commemorated  by  the  issuing  of  an 
order  from  Lieutenant  Greely,  that  the  exploring  expe- 
dition along  the  northern  coast  of  Greenland,  which 
had  been  marked  out  for  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  as 


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FARTUEST  NORTH. 


Benior  oflicer,  was  to  be  placed  in  command  of  Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood.  lie  now  felt  that  the  opportunity 
for  doing  something  creditable,  for  his  own  as  well  as 
his  country's  reputation,  was  at  hand,  and  his  feelings 
of  depression  gave  way  to  those  of  enthusiasm. 

On  Sunday,  the  28th  of  August,  all  work  was  sus- 
pended, and  some  appropriate  notice  was  taken  of  the 
day.  Lieutenant  Greely  read  a  chapter  in  the  Bible, 
having  previously  stated  that  any  one  would  bo  ex- 
cused from  attending  the  service  who  had  conscien- 
tious scruples.  The  supply  of  drinking-water  having 
come  up  as  an  important  question,  demanded  atten- 
tion. The  water  was  obtained  from  the  ice-hum- 
mocks in  the  harbor.  Pieces  of  suitable  size  were 
brought  to  the  house  on  sledges  and  then  melted  in 
a  largo  metallic  box  near  the  stove,  through  which 
and  the  stove  ran  a  steam-pipe.  Thus  a  liberal  sup- 
ply was  kept  up. 

Wishing  to  establish  a  depot  on  the  channel  for 
future  explorations,  Lockwood  left  with  Sergeants 
Brainard  and  Cross  to  explore  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  lying 
northeast  of  the  station  and  on  the  straits.  The  ground 
being  covered  with  snow,  the  Government  boots  were 
soon  soaked  though,  and  the  feet  of  the  party  became 
wet  and  cold.  Following  a  ravine,  they  soon  reached 
a  lake  near  the  summit  of  the  hills  in  the  rear,  where 
they  saw  a  musk-ox  grazing  on  the  bank.  The  ani- 
mal fled  on  seeing  them,  but  stopped  farther  on.  Ap- 
proaching him  under  cover,  Lockwood  got  a  standing 
shot  and  brought  him  down.  Skinning  him  and  di- 
viding the  carcass  into  quarters,  they  left  the  meat  for 


nOUSE-DUlLDINO  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.     95 

others  to  carry  in  and  went  on  their  tramp,  which  took 
tlicm  midway  between  the  **  hog-back,"  an  elevated 
plateau  on  the  north,  and  the  rugged  broken  chain  of 
mountains  which  lie  between  Discovery  Harbor  and 
Robeson  Channel.  About  noon  they  reached  St.  Pat- 
rick's Buy,  but  ut  a  poitit  so  difTerent  from  that  laid 
down  in  their  maps,  that  Lockwood  felt  some  doubt  aa 
to  its  identity,  to  settle  which,  they  proceeded  to  ex- 
plore a  wide  river-bed,  followed  by  a  deep  canon,  which 
led  into  the  bay  near  its  head.  With  this  view,  and  to 
BCC  the  country  to  better  advantage,  they  kept  north 
along  the  steep  rocky  sides  of  the  "hog-back,"  over 
rocks,  great  and  small,  compact  and  loose,  and  gener- 
ally covered  with  snow.  After  two  hours  of  laborious 
travel,  they  found  themselves  high  above  the  river- 
bed and  in  a  position  giving  them  a  good  view  north 
and  east.  The  main  stream  seemed  to  come,  from  tho 
north,  with  a  branch  from  the  west,  the  whole  through 
lands  of  tho  most  rugged  description.  Beyond  the 
river  to  the  east,  the  hills  were  more  sloping,  yet  rising 
to  an  immense  altitude  between  tho  river  and  tho 
channel  beyond.  It  seemed  not  difficult  to  descend 
into  tho  bed  of  tho  river,  walk  up  its  frozen  course, 
and,  taking  advantage  of  some  break  in  tho  cliifs  a 
few  miles  up,  gr-in  by  a  gradual  ascent  the  high  hills 
beyond,  thus  obtaining  a  view  of  Robcjon  Cliannel. 
The  descent,  over  rocks,  stones,  and  snow,  involving 
great  fatigue,  took  two  hours.  Th'j  bronglit  them 
to  a  level  terrace  extending  from  cliifs  to  cliffs,  through 
the  center  of  which  ran  a  deep  cut  or  cluiunei  con- 
taining the  insignificant  stream,  the  solo  occupant  of 
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FARinEST  NORTH. 


this  immense  caflon.  They  gained  the  frozen  stream 
with  (li(!iculty,  cut  through  the  ice  and  got  a  drink, 
and  then  regained  the  level  terrace  above,  and  began 
their  steep  climb  up  the  mountain  beyond,  through 
a  friendly  ravine.  One  hour's  work  brought  them 
to  an  elevation  which,  at  a  distance,  had  seemed  to 
be  the  main  summit,  only  to  find  that  farther  on 
there  were  still  higher  points.  Finally,  at  6  p.  m., 
they  reached  an  elevation  where  the  slope  seemed  to 
be  eastward,  and  from  which  a  magnificent  view  was 
obtained  of  the  channel  from  Cape  Licber  to  Repulse 
Harbor,  while  directly  east  of  them  lay  Newman's 
Bay  and  Polaris  Promontory.  After  erecting  a  cairn, 
they  started  back,  cold  and  hungry,  satisfied  that  they 
had  seen  the  true  St.  Patrick's  Bay. 

Regaining  the  river- valley,  they  had  a  most  fatigu- 
ing climb  to  attain  the  pass  through  which  they  had 
come,  and  where  they  had  killed  the  musk-ox.  Just 
cast  of  the  lake,  they  encountered  Dr.  Pavy  and  Rico, 
and  soon  after  Ralston  and  Lynn,  going  to  Lincoln 
Bay  via  St.  Patrick's  Bay.  Our  party  reached  home 
at  midnight,  with  frost-bitten  feet  and  empty  stom- 
achs, Lockwood  finding  his  stockings  full  of  ice  and 
one  toe  badlv  frost-bitten. 

He  was  laid  up  for  a  week  with  frosted  feet,  and 
bad  apprehension  ^f  losing  some  of  his  toes.  Al- 
though suffering  greatly,  he  was  made  especially  un- 
happy by  the  thought  of  being  disabled  so  early  in 
the  campaign.  Discussing  the  subject  of  scurvy  with 
Lieutenant  Greely,  they  agreed  in  regarding  the  ex- 
plorers much  better  provided  against  it,  than  was  the 


and 
Al- 


IIOUSE-BUILDiya  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.     97 

British  expedition,  in  that  their  dietary  list  was  more 
comi)lete.  The  EngHsh  issued  fresh  beef  but  once  a 
week  ;  the  Oreely  Expedition  three  times  or  oftener. 
This  expedition  had  also  the  great  advantage  of  a 
dry,  warm,  well-ventilated  house. 

Lockwood's  report  as  to  St.  Patrick's  Bay  settling 
that  as  the  place  for  their  first  depot,  Sergeant  Brainard 
with  others  proceeded  to  ectablish  tho  same  there  by 
means  of  tho  whale-boat,  moving  around  Capo  Dis- 
tant. Lockwood  was  much  annoyed  that  his  disability 
prevented  his  being  one  of  those  to  carry  out  this 
important  feature  toward  their  future  explorations. 
Ho  took  advantage  of  his  non-activo  condition  to  fig- 
ure out  a  design  for  an  *' ice-sledge,"  which  he 
thought  would  bo  an  improvement  on  the  Hudson 
Bay  sledge  they  had  in  use.  Lieutenant  Greely  ap- 
proving tho  plan,  he  proceeded  at  once  to  build  one 
by  way  of  experiment.  The  duty  assigned  to  Brain- 
ard was  duly  accomplished,  and  Depot  A  was  estab- 
lished at  St.  Patrick's  Bay. 

Having  received  a  gentle  reminder  from  Lieuten- 
ant Greciy  for  oversleeping  himself,  Lock  wood  said 
he  could  not  complain,  the  offense  not  being  his  first 
of  the  kind.  The  singular  clearness  of  the  atmosphere 
had  enabled  him  to  make  satisfactory  sketches  of  Capo 
Lieber  and  other  prominent  objects  in  tho  distance, 
and  also  of  the  house. 

Among  tho  events  which  made  the  early  days  of 
September  somewhat  lively  were  the  following  :  Gardi- 
ner reported  a  waif,  in  the  shape  of  a  boat  twelve  feet 
long  and  an  eight-men  sledge,  on  the  shore  near  Cape 


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98 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Murchison.  Lieutenant  Greely  with  others,  and  Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury  as  a  guest,  went  upon  a  two-days' 
trip  to  the  Bellows  in  search  of  game  and  to  view  the 
land.  They  were  successful  in  securing  ten  musk- 
oxen,  a  dozen  or  more  eider-ducks,  and  some  other 
game.  Sergeant  Lynn,  returning  from  Cape  Beechy, 
reported  a  wagon  and  lamp  on  the  shore,  left  by  the 
English. 

Dr.  Pavy  returned  from  Lincoln  Bay,  but  Eice, 
taken  on  the  return  with  severe  inflammatory  rheuma- 
tism, was  left  four  miles  north  of  St.  Patrick*s  Bay. 
A  party  was  at  once  sent  for  his  relief,  which  brought 
him  in,  in  a  bad  way.  Great  difficulty  was  found  in 
lifting  him  up  the  steep  cliffs  between  the  station  and 
St.  Patrick's  Bay. 

Lockwood,  having  recovered  from  his  injuries, 
went  upon  an  expedition  to  the  Bellows  with  Gar- 
diner and  the  Esquimaux  Frederick,  using  an  eight- 
dog  sledge  and  carrying  rations  for  four  days,  con- 
sisting of  roasted  musk-ox,  baked  beans,  butter  and 
sauce,  hard  bread,  and  chocolate.  They  visited  Bleak 
Cape,  the  entrance  of  the  Bellows.  The  Bellows 
they  found  to  be  a  long,  level  valley,  walled  in  by 
lofty  hills  and  cliffs,  in  some  places  two  or  three 
thousand  feet  high.  It  bears  the  impress  of  having 
been,  at  some  far-distant  period,  the  channel  of  a 
glacier,  its  level  surface  being  thickly  strewn  with 
stones,  while  there  are  masses  attached  like  shelves  to 
the  sides  of  the  cliffs  and  slopes.  For  twenty  miles, 
the  valley  preserves  a  width  of  nearly  three  miles ;  be- 
yond this,  it  narrows  and  changes  direction  toward  the 


!h      I 


nOUSE-BUILDIXG  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.     99 


west.  A  small  creek  runs  through  its  entire  length, 
which  generally  they  followed.  The  route  was  diffi- 
cult, owing  to  the  large  number  of  stones  imperfectly 
covered  with  snow,  and  hence  all  riding  ceased  after 
they  entered  the  valley  ;  for  the  dogs  could  scarcely 
pull  the  sledge  and  its  load,  and  often  required  aid. 
Here  they  met  a  piece  of  drift-wood,  indicating  that 
the  tide  once  flowed  up  the  valley,  for  no  tree  or 
wood  had  ever  been  seen  away  from  tide-water.  One 
of  the  dogs  becoming  sick  was  turned  adrift,  trusting 
to  her  following  the  party  or  returning  home.  Reach- 
ing "Devil's  Head,"  they  went  into  camp  by  turning 
up  the  sledge  and  hanging  rubber  blankets  around  to 
shield  them  from  the  cold  wind,  and  then  ate  a  sup- 
per of  warmed-up  beans  and  hot  chocolate,  and  tum- 
bled into  the  sleeping-bags,  all  of  which  they  found 
most  enjoyable. 

After  a  breakfast  of  chocolate,  hard  bread,  and 
some  frozen  cheese,  they  were  delighted  to  see  the  sick 
dog  rejoin  them.  The  sledge-runners  were  rapidly 
wearing  out,  and  they  concluded  to  walk  to  the  end 
of  the  valley,  leaving  the  Esquimaux  with  the  sledge 
and  team  while  they  pushed  on  as  best  they  could. 

Lockwood  and  Gardiner  reached  the  head  of  the 
valley  at  four,  and,  proceeding  up  the  incline  to  the 
west  where  it  narrowed  to  a  ravine,  went  on  till  they 
came  to  a  narrow  gorge — its  terminus.  Having  seen 
all  there  was  to  see,  and  Gardiner  complaining  of  a 
game  leg,  they  retraced  their  steps,  reached  the  sledge 
at  10  p.  M.,  and  at  once,  supperlcss,  turned  into  their 
sleeping-bags.     Near  the  terminus  of  the  valley  they 


"  I! 


;  .  ■■■( 


rl 


f  1 


h       ; 


100 


FARTHEST  NORTU. 


met  two  musk-oxen,  but,  having  only  tlieir  knives 
with  them,  did  not  venture  on  an  assault,  though  the 
animals  stood  still  and  quietly  gazed  at  the  intruders. 

Returning,  they  followed  the  creek,  finding  some 
advantage  from  the  ice  which  had  formed  during  the 
night.  Lockwood  saw  and  took  back  with  him  a  few 
pieces  of  wood-coal,  or  very  soft  coal,  evidently  of 
recent  formation,  which  had  doubtless  washed  down, 
but  whence  he  knew  not.  Reaching  Bleak  Cape,  they 
decided  to  make  a  detour  west  to  a  canon  near  tho 
"Knife-edge,"  where  the  musk-oxen  were  killed  by 
Lieutenant  Greely  and  party  a  few  days  before ;  but  no 
musk-ox,  dead  or  aiive,  was  to  be  seen.  Gardiner  being 
still  lame,  Lockwood  abandoned  some  other  objects  he 
had  in  view  in  making  this  trip,  and,  striking  out  di- 
rectly across  the  bay  and  riding  on  the  sledge,  they 
reached  the  station  without  incident. 

Dr.  Pavy  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  reach 
an  estuary  at  the  head  of  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  from 
which  Lieutenant  Greely  thought  a  passage  might 
be  forced  westward  to  a  supposed  fiord  or  sea  con- 
nected with  the  waters  leading  through  Behring 
Strait  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Unfortunately,  find- 
ing Lady  Franklin  Bay  open  beyond  Stony  Point, 
the  doctor  returned  without  settling  this  interesting 
question,  which,  as  will  he  seen.  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  afterward  solved. 

Sixteen,  or  more,  large  Arctic  wolves  were  seen  in 
one  day  on  the  ice,  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
house.  These  were  the  first  seen  by  them  ;  the  Eng- 
lish saw  none  here,  nor  do  Kane,  Hayes,  or  Hall 


UOUSE-BUILDING  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.    101 


mention  them.  These  wolves  arc  large,  strong,  fierce- 
looking  beasts,  perfectly  white  in  color,  and  anything 
but  desirable  customers  to  meet. 

Lieutenant  Grecly,  and  Sergeants  Brainard,  Ben- 
der, and  Connell,  left  on  an  exploration  above  and 
beyond  "  North  Valley,"  a  deep  cafion  cutting 
through  the  "  hog's  back  "  north  of  the  station.  They 
left  without  sledges,  carrying  six  days'  rations,  sleep- 
ing-bags, etc.  Following  the  "North  Valley"  up- 
ward, and  leaving  it  near  its  head,  they  soon  found 
themselves  in  a  water-course  running  toward  St.  Pat- 
rick's Bay.  Turning  westward,  and  going  some  dis- 
tance, they  came  in  sight  of  what  they  regarded  as 
the  United  States  Range ;  but,  a  heavy  snow-storm 
coming  on,  they  cut  short  the  trip  after  traveling 
twenty-five  miles,  and  returned.  It  was  deemed  un- 
fortunate that  the  untoward  weather  prevented  their 
getting  a  good  view  from  that  range.  The  absence  of 
glaciers  and  large  water-courses,  the  low  altitude  of 
the  range,  and  many  other  features  in  that  region,  all 
seemed  to  indicate  a  large  sea  not  far  to  the  westward. 

The  building  of  Lockwood's  sledge  turned  out  a 
faikire,  for  the  want  of  proper  appliances. 

On  the  17th  of  September,  the  party  celebrated 
Whistler's  birthday  by  a  dinner  of  his  own  selection 
— oyster  soup,  roast  musk-ox,  potatoes,  com,  pear- 
butter,  cake,  etc.,  and  a  glass  of  grog  in  the  evening. 
Two-story  bunks  were  built  for  the  men,  giving  more 
room.  The  Signal-Service  men — the  observers — had 
a  little  corner  partitioned  off,  where  they  were  to  sleep 
and  work.    Another  corner  was  fitted  as  a  wash-room, 


f 


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T  ■ 


''  J 


I ' 


'   i 


! 


102 


FARTEEST  NORTH. 


where  warm  water  might  be  had,  and  where  there 
was  a  bath-tub,  which  all  were  expected  to  use  every 
week.  Other  arrangements  had  been  provided  pro- 
ductive of  comfort  and  health.  Lock  wood's  time  was 
now  chiefly  occupied  in  drawing  maps,  making  fin- 
ished drawings  from  sketches,  reading,  and  sledge- 
work. 

Dr.  Pavy,  with  a  party,  went  to  take  provisions  to 
the  depots,  but  failed  to  get  round  Cape  Murchison. 
Not  satisfying  Lieutenant  Greely,  the  latter  himself 
undertook  the  task,  and,  after  considerable  difficulty, 
in  which  the  sledge  broke  down,  succeeded.  On  the 
21st  the  sun  presented  a  remarkable  appearance,  hav- 
ing rainbows  to  the  right  and  left,  which  nearly  joined 
above;  also  radiating  vertical  and  horizontal  beams  of 
light. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  after  many  futile  efforts 
with  arsenic,  succeeded  in  poisoning  many  wolves  with 
strychnine.  Five  of  them  bit  the  dust  at  one  time, 
and  by  this  means  the  party  was  able  to  get  rid  of 
these  dangerous  neighbors.  This  animal,  as  stated, 
is  perfectly  white,  and  is  not  unlike  the  Esquimaux 
dog,  but  larger  and  more  formidable. 
,  On  the  24th  of  September,  Lock  wood  started  on 
a  trip  to  Cape  Beechy  with  Ellis,  Fredericks,  Ral- 
ston, Biederbick,  and  one  large  sledge,  to  provision 
Depot  "  A,"  distant  twenty  miles.  They  started  with 
two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  on  the  sledge,  intending 
to  take  on  other  food  left  near  Cape  Distant.  Their 
passage  around  this  cape  was  accomplished  only  after 
cutting  away  masses  of  ice.     Beyond  this,  and  with 


HOUSE-BUILDING  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.    103 


■13 


their  load  increased  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  pounds, 
they  struck  masses  of  rocks  over  which  the  sledge  and 
load  had  to  be  lifted.  There  they  left  the  photograph 
apparatus  for  Rice,  and  took  lunch.  Afterward  they 
passed  Watercourse  Bay,  and  the  English  wagon  lying 
on  the  shore,  and  halted  for  the  night  at  6  p.  m.  at  Capo 
Murchison,  without  any  remonstrance  on  the  part  of 
the  tired-out  men,  notwithstanding  some  of  them, 
about  noon,  had  proposed  going  on  to  Cape  Beechy 
without  a  stop.  Indeed,  Lockwood  obseryed  anxious 
faces  among  them  when  he  hesitated  about  stopping. 
Floe-bergs  of  every  form  and  shape — square,  oblong, 
round,  and  pyramidal — from  ten  to  forty  feet  high, 
were  scattered  along  the  shore.  Without  the  barrier 
afforded  by  these,  the  floating  floe,  moving  with  the 
noise  of  railroad-trains,  would  cut  away  the  foot-ice 
and  render  travel  impossible.  Using  the  tent  at  Depot 
"A,"  and  the  bedding,  etc.,  there,  they  got  supper 
over  the  spirit-lamp  and  crawled  into  their  sleeping- 
bags.  The  cold,  cramped  position,  and  dropping  of 
congealed  moisture  from  the  tent,  robbed  them  of 
sleep  ;  hence  they  rose  at  5.20,  little  refreshed.  Beau- 
tiful ''  sun-dogs  "  were  noticed  with  the  rising  of  the 
sun  across  the  strait.  Toward  noon  similar  appear- 
ances, peculiar  to  the  Arctic  sun,  were  still  more  re- 
markable—rainbows on  either  side,  and  joined  above 
the  sun,  while  vertical  and  horizontal  beams  of  white 
light  pierced  the  sun.  They  passed  St.  Patrick's  Bay, 
and,  after  a  hard  and  cold  day's  work,  reached  Depot 
"  B,"  south  of  Mount  Bufort  and  a  little  farther  south 
of  Cape  Beechy,  at  3  p.  m.,  the  25th.    On  the  fol- 


i.i 


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104 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


P 


If 


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If 


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1 

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lowing  day,  dragging  an  empty  sledge,  they  returned 
to  the  cache  at  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  loaded  up  with  three 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  and  returned  to  Depot 
**  B,"  tired,  cold,  and  wet  with  jierspiration,  this  last 
being,  perhaps,  the  greatest  obstacle  to  Arctic  travel. 
The  great  exertion  soon  induces  perspiration,  which 
being  checked  when  labor  ceases,  you  are  at  once  sen- 
sible of  cold  water  and  ice  at  the  same  time.  It  was 
rare  to  have  anything  entirely  dry  after  tlio  first  day 
of  work.  The  sole  resource  was  to  use  the  heat  of 
the  body  in  the  sleeping-bags  at  night.  Mittens  and 
socks  were  the  most  important  to  keep  dry,  and  the 
most  difficult.  Their  lamps  being  imperfect,  they 
found  a  difficulty  in  preparing  their  chocolate.  The 
alcohol  took  fire  below  and  filled  the  tent  with  fumes 
quite  as  unpleasant  as  the  cold.  Having  left  their 
tin  plates  behind,  they  had  to  eat  from  one  dish. 
Eating  was  simply  cramming,  that  their  benumbed 
fingers  might  give  up  the  cold  spoons  and  return  to 
the  warm  pockets.  Yet  with  all  these  discomforts  they 
ate  heartily,  and  with  appetites  unknown  elsewhere 
tlian  m  the  Arctic  regions ;  and,  notwithstanding 
dirt,  cold,  and  alcoholic  fumes,  they  had  their  jokes 
and  songs  while  lying  in  their  sleeping-bags,  trying  to 
keep  warm  and  get  to  sleep.  But  their  ills  did  not 
end  there,  for  whenever  the  canvas  was  shaken,  frost- 
like snow — condensed  vapor — fell  upon  them,  which 
melted  with  the  lighting  of  the  lamp  in  the  morning. 
Truly,  this  was  a  rough  road  to  glory  and  fame  I 

Two  of  the  men,  in  consequence  of  the  crowded 
tent,  had  to  sleep  outside  with  the  thermometer  at 


nOUSE-BUILDING  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.    l05 


—15°,  and  left  without  breakfast,  to  return  to  the 
station.  The  party  soon  followed  them,  and,  after 
stopping  at  St.  Patrick's  Bay  to  take  on  a  log  of  drift- 
wood observed  there,  which  gave  them  an  additional 
pull  of  live  miles,  reached  the  station  long  after  dark.  ' 
Having  taken  something  to  cat  and  drink,  they  got 
into  their  warm  and  dry  beds,  which  never  felt  more 
comfortable. 

The  next  man  to  command  a  party  was  Dr.  Pavy, 
who  had  in  view  a  long-projected  trip  to  Cape  Joseph 
Henry,  with  the  object  of  carrying  out  the  wishes  of 
the  Navy  Department,  that  a  search  should  bo  made 
there  for  the  Jeannettc,  and  a  signal  placed  indicat- 
ing that  help  was  near  at  hand ;  another  object  was 
to  establish  a  depot  for  spring  operations.  His  force 
consisted  of  the  Esquimaux  Jans,  Whistler,  and  two 
dog-teams.  His  "constant  weight"  was  two  hundred 
pounds,  and  he  took  rations  for  twenty  days.  Ho 
counted  upon  other  rations  at  Lincoln  Bay  left  by  the 
English,  and  those  nearer  home  left  by  Greely's  men 
at  Depot  "  B,"  near  Cape  Beechy.  He  hoped  with 
these  to  establish  a  depot  near  the  place  where  the 
Alert  had  her  winter  quarters,  and  thus  be  ready  in 
the  spring  to  surpass  Markham.  Lockwood  was  in- 
clined to  think  the  doctor  a  little  too  anxious  to  re- 
tain personal  comfort  while  exploring,  to  accomplish 
much.  He  had  been  convinced  that  sledge-journeys 
of  any  considerable  extent  in  those  high  latitudes 
could  be  made  only  by  the  sacrifice  of  every  personal 
comfort. 

On  the  2d  of  October,  there  was  a  remarkable  and 


It  1 1 


in 


i' 


li 


ri 


M 


1 


'     ! 


106 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


beautiful  sunset.  The  lower  part  of  the  picture  was 
formed  by  the  clear  white  ice  of  the  harbor  westward. 
Then  came  the  distant  mountains,  whose  snow-capped 
summits  reached  into  a  sky  of  beautiful  green  ;  above, 
a  line  of  gold,  and  then  blue  and  gold  alternating,  and 
finally  the  deep-blue  vault  studded  with  masses  of  red 
— on  the  whole  a  most  gorgeous  spectacle. 

Finding  this  inactive  life  monotonous,  Lockwood 
started  on  an  exploration  of  the  streams  which  enter 
St.  Patrick^s  Bay  from  the  north.  Lynn,  Bender, 
Saler,  Henry,  and  himself  constituted  the  party,  and 
they  proposed  going  by  way  of  the  gap  through 
the  mountains  rather  than  around  Distant  Cape. 
They  had  not  gone  far  before  they  regretted  having 
taken  this  short  cut,  for  they  found  the  way  exceed- 
ingly laborious  from  want  of  snow — so  much  so,  that 
tht/  were  six  hours  in  reaching  the  steep,  rocky  bluffs 
which  overlook  St.  Patrick's  Bay  and  the  valley  at 
the  north  of  it,  and  they  were  two  more  before  reach- 
ing the  level  of  the  bay.  Indeed,  this  was  only  at- 
tained by  carrying  their  load  piece  by  piece  down  the 
cliffs  and  letting  the  sledge  down  by  ropes.  Here 
they  put  up  their  tent  and  went  into  camp.  Unfor- 
tunately, they  had  neglected  to  bring  candles,  and 
hence  had  to  eat  their  meal  in  darkness.  Lockwood 
and  Saler  occupied  one  sleeping-bag,  while  the  others 
were  in  another.  They  passed  the  night  cold  and 
sleepless.  There  being  a  birthday  dinner  at  the  sta- 
tion, they  had  intended  to  walk  back  to  it,  a  distance 
of  seven  miles,  but,  on  account  of  the  condition  of 
the  way,  abandoned  the  idea. 


nOUSI^BUILDING  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONS.    107 


Getting  off  at  an  early  hour  after  a  cold  breakfast, 
and  reaching  the  bed  of  the  water-course,  they  made 
their  way  over  its  stony  bed,  so  lightly  covered  with 
snow  as  to  rapidly  grind  away  the  sledge-runners,  up 
the  caflon,  as  grand  as  the  stream  was  insignificant. 
Finding  their  progress  so  m  ch  impeded,  they  left  the 
sledge  behind  and  made  their  way  without  it.  The 
cold  being  intense,  to  keep  up  circulation  they  walked 
rapidly,  but  suffered  greatly  in  their  feet  and  hands. 
Having  volunteered  for  this  expedition,  they  were 
ashamed  to  give  it  up,  though  often  disposed  to  do 
so.  Thus,  for  three  tiresome  hours,  they  kept  on 
their  way,  either  following  the  bed  of  the  stream,  or 
along  the  mesa-like  formations,  which  projected  like 
shelves  from  the  mountain-sides.  Finally,  the  valley 
and  mesas  alike  disappearing,  the  stream  entered  a 
narrow  gorge.  Gaining  an  eminence,  the  furthei 
course  of  the  streanr^  was  indicated  to  them,  and  its 
probable  terminus  in  table-lands  of  great  elevation 
seen  in  the  distance.  Keturning  by  the  bed  of  the 
stream  until  the  valley  had  attained  a  width  of  half 
a  mile,  they  entered  from  the  west  a  very  picturesque 
caiion  thirty  feet  wide  with  walls  one  hundred  feet 
high.  Its  walls  were  worn  smooth,  as  though  by  the 
action  of  ice,  and  there  were  small,  basin-shaped  holes 
apparently  made  by  bowlders  caught  by  glaciers.  They 
also  met  with  blocks  of  quartz  much  larger  than  could 
possibly  be  moved  by  the  force  of  any  body  of  water 
now  passing  through  the  canon.  Notwithstanding 
their  exhausted  condition,  and  the  worn  state  of  their 
foot-gear  from  the  numerous  stones  and  rough  ice 


I  M 


ni' 


I  ■: 


1 


108 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


they  liad  passed  over,  they  concluded  not  to  spend  the 
night  where  they  had  left  the  sledge,  but  to  go  on  to 
Depot  "  A,"  near  Cape  Murchison.  Adding  their  out- 
fit to  tliat  of  the  depot,  they  had  a  night  of  less  dis- 
comfort than  usual.  On  passing  Cape  Di:<tant,  they 
noticed  a  broad  channel  of  open  water  in  the  strait, 
preventing  any  passage  at  that  time. 

On  reaching  the  station,  they  found  that  the  tem- 
perature had  been  —  1G°,  and  it  was  probably  4°  lower 
where  they  had  been.  Lieutenant  Grecly  was  put- 
ting in  order  a  variety  of  reading-matter  for  the  men. 
Porgeant  Brainard  was  absent  at  the  Bellows,  with 
jiice  and  Bender,  after  musk-ox  meat.  They  returned 
later,  badly  frosted,  but  brought  the  meat  to  within 
easy  sledging  distance. 

The  7th  of  October,  being  Mrs.  Greely's  birthday, 
was  celebrated  with  a  dinner  made  regal  by  the  follow- 
ing-named dishes :  gumbo-soup,  biscuits,  old  sherry, 
Columbia  Eiver  salmon  with  sauce  sauterne,  boiled 
ham,  asparagus,  sago,  com,  lima-beans,  cold  bread, 
chocolate  cake,  strawberry  and  pineapple  ice-cream, 
dates,  figs,  grapes,  prunes,  candied  fruits,  coffee,  and 
Benedictine. 

In  Payer's  "History  of  the  Austrian  Expedition  to 
Franz-Josef  Land,"  Lockwood  found  much  of  inter- 
est in  connection  with  the  requirements  for  a  sledge- 
journey — details  of  clothing  and  other  matters  best 
suited  to  fit  one  to  stand  the  cold.  The  book  he  con- 
sidered of  great  value  to  any  novice  in  Arctic  sledg- 
ing. He  supposed  that  they  themselves  were  much 
better  off  than  any  expedition  that  had  wintered  with- 


nOUSE-BUILDINO  AND  LOCAL  EXPLORATIONa    109 

in  the  Arctic  Circle.  The  most  serious  difficulties — 
diimi)nes8,  want  of  ventilation,  and  darkness — were 
reduced  witli  them  to  a  minimum,  while  of  fredh 
meat,  anti-scorbutics,  and  fuel  they  had  an  abun- 
dance ;  and  if  their  assortment  of  clothinf:: — particu- 
larly foot-^'car — had  been  better,  they  would  have  had 
nothing  to  desire. 

Besides  the  large  stock  of  coal  left  by  the  Proteus, 
they  had  the  coal-mine  within  ten  miles.  The  men 
seemed  comfortable  and  contented.  They  had  a  bath- 
room and  bath-tub,  with  hot  and  cold  water  ready  at 
hand,  and  books  and  periodicals  in  abundance.  Their 
heating  arrangements  were  generally  perfect  and  quite 
effectual.  The  light  from  the  sun  amounted  to  little, 
and  artificial  light  within-doors  was  required  all  day ; 
but  with  a  full  moon,  bright  sky,  and  everything  cov- 
ered with  snow,  they  had  a  flood  of  light  almost  an 
equivalent.  They  had  musk-ox  meat  almost  every 
day,  and  a  larfre  store  on  hand.  They  also  had  a  largo 
ijupply  of  the  best  pork,  lime-juice,  cider,  sour-krout, 
pickles,  onions  and  cucumbers  mixed,  and  other  anti- 
scorbutics. The  men  were  comfortable,  seemed  happy 
and  cheerful,  and  found  many  sources  of  amusement 
— among  others,  from  an  anti-swearing  society.  De- 
linquents were  fined  five  cents  each,  the  proceeds  to 
pay  for  a  grand  dinner  on  returning  to  the  United 
States.  Several  members  incurred  such  enormous 
fines  as  to  become  bankrupt,  and  were  expelled. 
These  outcasts  lay  around  and  beguiled  the  unwary, 
thus  affording  amusement  to  all  except  the  ^victim. 
Rice  and  Israel  had  a  way  of  carrying  on  ridiculous 


\     ]v\ 


\  >  I 


> 


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r- 


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t  ! 

m 

la  > 


i 


110 


FARTHEST  NOIITII. 


discussions.  Ono  evening  they  had  an  apparently 
angry  dialogue,  in  which  Rico  personated  a  tipsy 
lodger  complaining  of  the  fare  and  demanding  his 
bill,  and  Israel,  an  insulted  landlord.  Both  seemed 
entirely  in  earnest,  and  kept  their  countenances  araid 
roars  of  laughter  and  gibes  from  the  men. 


¥     m 


IX. 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS  AND 
LIFE  AT  TUE  STATION. 

Among  the  amusements  wliich  liclpcd  to  kill  time 
at  the  station  of  Discovery  Harbor,  ollicially  called 
Fort  Conger,  was  that  of  celebrating  certain  birth- 
days, and  this  chapter  begins  with  what  was  done 
when  Lieutenant  Lockwood  attained  his  twenty-ninth 
year.  lie  confessed  that  he  did  not  wish  a  "liappy 
return  of  the  day  "  in  the  Arctic  regions^  and  yet  ho 
would  be  contented  if  they  should  all  be  as  pleasant  as 
the  one  just  experienced,  in  spite  of  the  cold  winds, 
ice,  snow,  darkness,  and  anticipations  oi  exposure  and 
fatigue  when  his  spring  travels  should  begin.  Ho 
spent  most  of  the  day  in  sewing  canvas  leggings  to 
his  moccasins  and  altering  his  trousers,  while  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  entertained  him  with  recollections  of 
his  army  experience  during  the  rebellion,  fighting  his 
battles  over  again.  His  birthday  dinner  was  some- 
thing quite  formidable,  consisting  of  : 

Pea  soup  a  la  Proteus, 

Scalloped  oysters  d  la  Eastern  Shore, 

Deviled  crabs  d  la  Chesapeake, 

Musk-ox  d  la  Franklin  liay. 


r,rf"M 


I . 


1 


V 


i  ^  I 


iH 


112 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Potatoes  a  Tlrlandaisc, 
Macaroni  d  I'ltalienne, 
Rice  and  curry  d  la  Pacific  Mail, 
Blanc-mange,   fruits,   nuts,  cake,  ice-cream, 
and  black  coffee. 
Lieutenant   Greely  kindly  aided,   from    i^rivato 
stores,  some  very  good  California  port  wine.     Lock- 
wood's  reflections,  however,  carried  him  to  his  dis- 
tant home,  and  he  longed  to  know  that  all  there  were 
well — that  his  dear  parents  and  sisters  were  happy  as 
when  he  was  with  them !    Perhaps,  even  at  that  hour, 
their  thoughts  and  words  were  of  him.     On  this  day, 
as  frequently  on  his  sledging  journeys,  he  pictured  to 
himself  the  family  circle  in  the  far-off  home.     The 
cold,  fatigue,  and  monotony  attending  him  and  his 
companions  were  rendered  endurable  by  thus  break- 
ing away  from  the  present. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  October,  Lockwood 
started  on  a  trip  with  Jewell  across  Lady  Franklin 
Bay  for  Cape  Baird.  Had  no  diflBculty  for  a  mile  or 
two  beyond  Dutch  Island,  but  mist  and  fog  then  ob- 
scuring their  way  and  blotting  out  the  landscape,  they 
kept  on  their  course  by  compass.  Soon  they  encoun- 
tered heavy  snow-drifts  and  many  floe-bergs  and  fields 
of  rubble-ice,  all  unfavorable  for  sledging.  Fortu- 
nately, they  had  only  themselves  to  transport.  Though 
the  weather  was  cold,  they  soon  found  fchemselves  op- 
pressively warm  from  the  labor  attending  the  journey. 
Profiting  by  past  experience,  Lockwood  had  this  time 
come  out  warmly  dressed — viz.,  with  two  flannel  shirts, 
a  woolen  jersey,  an  under-shirt  of  light  buckskin, 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXTEDITIONS. 


113 


T  C- 


heavy  woolen  drawers,  a  seal-skin  over-all,  and  two 
pairs  of  socks  under  light  buckskin  moccasins.  IIo 
then  became  convinced,  that  it  was  quite  as  great  a 
mistake  to  wear  too  much  as  too  little  clothing.  Even 
when  they  could  ride  on  the  sledge,  which  was  not 
often,  there  were  numerous  bad  places  where  they  had 
to  run  with  the  dogs  and  lift  the  sledge  over  obstacles. 
Trying  to  avoid  the  moving  ice,  they  struck  too  far 
westward,  so  that  when  they  approached  land  they 
found  themselves  some  two  miles  within  the  cape  for 
which  they  had  started.  Stopping  only  to  take  a  bite 
of  crackers  and  meat,  they  started  to  retrace  their 
steps,  but  not  before  daylight  had  left  them,  and  they 
had  only  the  moon  to  show  them  the  way.  After 
some  time  they  thought  to  reduce  the  distance  by 
taking  what  they  supposed  was  a  short  cut,  but  soon 
found  themselves  scrambling  over  hummocky  ice  of 
the  most  formidable  character.  They  regained  their 
track,  but  not  till  overcome  by  thirst  and  fatigue. 
Resting  at  short  intervals,  they  finally  came  in  sight 
of  Dutch  Island,  and  soon  afterward  were  gladdened 
by  the  sound  of  distant  shouts.  Dr.  Pavy  and  Ser- 
geants Brainard  and  Connell  had  come  out  to  meet 
them,  and  not  empty-handed,  for  they  bore  a  bag 
of  hot  coffee,  and  never  did  coffee  taste  more  de- 
licious. Though  the  mercury  was  nearly  nine  de- 
grees below  zero,  when  they  reached  the  house  every- 
thing they  had  on  was  as  wet  as  if  they  had  fallen 
overboard. 

The  result  of  that  reconnaissance  was  that  they  de- 
cided to  establish  a  ** depot"  near  Cape  Baird,  which 


m 


iji' 


J.' 

'I 


114 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


labor  was  duly  carried  out  by  Lockwood,  Ellis,  Saler, 
and  Bender.  The  weather  being  open,  they  start- 
ed directly  for  Cape  Baird,  but,  finding  that  route 
impracticable,  inclined  westward  and  got  into  their 
old  track.  After  much  delay  and  great  labor,  they 
reached  a  point  on  the  farther  side,  where  they 
found  it  necessary  to  encamp  for  the  night.  The 
tent  was  pitched,  chocoliite  boiled,  and  beans  thawed 
out,  after  which  they  crawled  into  their  sleeping-bags, 
trying  to  forget,  if  possible,  that  the  thermometer 
stood  at  —24**  without.  Resuming  their  journey,  but 
now  with  the  discomfort  of  wind  added  to  intense 
cold,  they  made  their  way  ashore,  established  the 
depot  of  proyisions,  and  with  lightened  sledges  and 
hearts  retraced  their  steps.  Noses  were  frozen  during 
the  day,  and  only  restored  by  friction,  which  made 
them  raw  and  uncomfortable.  Very  soon  after  start- 
ing back,  twilight  disappeared,  and  they  had  only  the 
moon  t'>  light  them  on  their  way.  Passing  the  rest- 
ing-place of  the  previous  night,  they  concluded  to 
make  the  journey  to  the  house  without  stopping. 
They  stumbled  on  in  the  dark,  a  used-up  party, 
Lockwood  having  a  sprained  tendon  Achilles,  and 
also  a  lame  back.  The  air  becoming  calm,  they 
were  enabled  to  stop  sometimes  and  rest,  which  they 
could  not  have  safely  done  in  their  perspiring  condi- 
tion had  the  wind  been  blowing.  When  near  Dutch 
Island,  Dr.  Pavy  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  met 
them  with  hot  coffee,  which  so  much  refreshed  them 
that  the  rest  of  the  journey  seemed  easy,  although  it 
was  probable  that  Lockwood's  raw  red  nose,  frosted 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS. 


115 


toes,  lame  back,  and  tender  heel,  would  be  reminders 
of  this  trip  for  a  long  time. 

On  the  ICth  of  October  the  sun  disappeared,  to 
rise  no  more  until  February.  With  the  mercury  rang- 
ing from  —28°  to  —40°,  Lock  wood  amused  himself 
by  scraping  off  the  accumulated  condensation  of  moist- 
ure from  the  room  on  the  window-panes  near  his  cor- 
ner, the  ice  being  one  inch  thick. 

About  this  time  Lockwood  took  up  a  course  of 
Arctic  literature,  with  which  they  were  liberally  sup- 
plied. This  was  chiefly  in  view  of  his  sledge-journey 
in  the  coming  spring.  Feeling  the  need  of  exercise, 
he  left  the  station  on  the  23d  for  Depot  "B,"  Cape 
Beechy,  with  Brainard,  Connell,  and  the  Esquimaux 
Frederick,  and  a  sledge  with  eight  dogs.  At  Depot 
'*A"  they  took  on  a  small  stove  and  a  bag  of  coal 
from  the  mines,  and  thereby  the  tent  at  Depot  "  B  " 
became  more  comfortable  than  anything  they  had  ex- 
perienced away  from  the  station ;  notwithstanding, 
they  had  a  comfortless  night,  as  the  crowded  condi- 
tion of  the  tent  compelled  some  of  them  to  lie  so  near 
the  stove  as  to  endanger  their  safety.  Lockwood  woke 
up  to  find  a  large  hole  burned  in  his  blanket.  After- 
ward, the  fire  going  out,  they  suffered  more  than 
when  they  had  had  no  fire  at  all.  They  erected  a 
snow-house  for  a  depot  here,  forming  the  sides  of 
tough  blocks  of  compact  snow,  and  ccr'^ring  it  with 
the  boat-sail  supported  by  oars,  and,  by  imitating  the 
natives  in  some  particulars,  had  a  house  impervious 
to  cold. 

While  there,  Lockwood,  v/ith  Brainard,  ascended 


i 


I'* 


■  %  ■ 


:%   ' 


V. 


h 

1  h^ 


116 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Mount  Bufort,  near  at  hand,  and  had  an  uninter- 
rupted view  of  the  straits  as  far  down  as  Cape  Lieber, 
and  of  the  opposite  coast,  between  which  and  them 
hung  water-clouds,  indicating  open  water.  This  fact 
was  also  indicated  by  the  roar,  like  a  moving  railroad- 
train,  made  by  the  crushing  of  the  ice  in  the  current. 
Having  passed  another  night  in  their  warm  snow- 
house,  they  made  their  way  next  day  to  the  station 
in  less  than  five  hours,  and  found  all  hands  there  en- 
gaged in  erecting  an  ice  wall  around  the  house  as 
high  as  the  eaves,  and  filling  in  with  snow.  This 
proved  most  effectual  in  keeping  the  house  warm. 

Lieutenant  Greely  had  an  uncomfortable  experi- 
ence while  assisting  to  make  a  tide-gauge.  He  fell 
in  and  got  a  ducking — not  his  first  experience  in  that 
direction.  Wolves  were  daily  seen  near  the  house, 
and  were  so  bold  and  fearless  that  the  men  deemed  it 
prudent  never  to  leave  the  building  without  fire-arms ; 
for,  as  the  animals  were  of  the  same  color  as  the  snow, 
they  could  not  be  easily  distinguished. 

On  the  29th,  a  singular  aurora  made  its  appear- 
ance, consisting  of  a  ribbon  of  white  light  a  degree 
wide,  stretching  through  the  zenith  from  north  to 
south ;  then  another  arch,  10°  westward,  whose 
base  touched  the  first ;  and  still  another,  also  passing 
through  the  zenith,  and  cutting  the  others  at  right 
angles. 

On  the  80th,  Lockwood  commenced  preparations 
for  a  preliminary  journey  to  Hall's  winter  quarters, 
whenever  the  straits  could  be  crossed  and  the  weather 
and  light  were  suitable.    Among  other  things,  the 


rRELIMIX.UiY  SLEDGE  EXrEDITIONS. 


117 


saddler,  Fredericks,  made  a  tent  to  hold  eight  men, 
using  to  that  end  two  common  "  A"  tents. 

About  this  time,  while  cogitating  on  his  room  and 
room-mates.  Lock  wood  said  :  "  Surely  this  is  a  happy 
quartet  occupying  this  room !  We  often  sit  silent  dur- 
ing the  whole  day,  and  even  a  meal  fails  to  elicit  any- 
thing more  than  a  chance  remark  or  two.  A  charm- 
ing prospect  for  four  months  of  darkness,  such  gloom 
within,  and  penned  up  as  we  are  in  one  room !  I  have 
doubts  of  getting  over  the  straits,  but  I  must  be  off  as 
soon  as  possible,  for  I  jfind  a  relief  in  getting  away." 

Lieutenant  Greely  had  felt  himself  compelled  to 
show  his  dissatisfaction  with  Dr.  Pavy's  explorations, 
or  rather  attempted  explorations.  He  and  the  doctor 
had  also  adverse  views  as  to  how  explorations  should 
be  made.  The  doctor  wanted  to  take  along  many 
creature  comforts,  while  Greely  thought,  with  Lock- 
wood,  that  nothing  could  be  accomplished  without 
sacrificing  all  beyond  bare  necessities. 

Having  everything  complete,  Lockwood  started  on 
the  1st  of  November  to  try  the  passage  of  the  straits, 
with  Brainard,  Lynn,  Saler,  Biederbick,  Ellis,  Fred- 
ericks, and  Connell,  dragging  an  eight-man  sledge, 
weighing,  with  load,  one  thousand  pounds.  They 
left  sledge  and  load  beyond  Cape  Distant,  and  re- 
turned to  lodge  at  the  house,  where  all  hands  fortified 
themselves  with  a  first-class  dinner,  preparatory  to 
the  labors  of  the  next  day. 

They  got  off  early,  but,  owing  to  the  limited  light 
and  other  difficulties,  found  themselves  some  distance 
from  the  snow-house  near  Cape  Beechy  when  dark- 


]k 


t 


118 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


■H 


¥    I 


!     1 


ness  overtook  them.  Having  all  in  readiness  on  the 
4tli,  they  again  got  off,  leaving  Ellis  at  the  snow- 
house  with  an  injured  foot.  This  was  unfortunate, 
as  ho  was  a  strong,  willing  fellow,  with  lots  of  pluck. 
The  prospects  of  crossing  the  straits  at  this  time  were 
not  encouraging,  both  from  the  short  duration  of  light 
and  from  the  open  waters.  Still,  they  determined  to 
make  the  effort.  This  they  first  did  with  the  wliale- 
boat,  which  they  had  picked  up  on  their  route.  They 
mounted  it  on  the  sledge,  but  soon  found  they  could 
not  drag  so  heavy  a  body,  and  returned  to  the  snow- 
house.  Rice,  whom  they  found  there,  was  then  sent 
with  a  dog-sledge  to  bring  up  a  small  boat  from  Cape 
Murchison.  Dr.  Pavy,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  and 
Jans  coming  along  en  route  for  another  attempt  north- 
ward, were  surprised  to  see  how  comfortable  they  were 
in  the  snow-house. 

After  extensive  repairs  to  the  small  boat,  they  again 
got  off  at  noon,  seven  men  and  Lockwood  himself  drag- 
ging the  sledge,  on  which  were  the  boat  and  one  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  pounds  of  rations.  On  reaching 
open  water,  three  only  were  to  proceed  in  the  boat, 
the  others  to  fall  back  on  the  snow-house.  They  got 
along  pretty  well  until  they  came  to  the  hummocks, 
through  which,  with  extreme  labor,  and  frequently 
using  an  axe,  they  made  their  way,  till  they  heard,  in 
the  distance  toward  Polaris  Promontory,  the  roar  of 
the  grinding  ice,  indicating  open  water.  Moving  on 
ahead  of  the  party  over  very  rough  ice,  and  crossing 
some  wet,  slushy  ice  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  wide, 
Lockwx>od  found  himself  on  a  level  floe.     He  had 


I* 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS. 


119 


gone  only  a  short  distance  over  this  toward  a  dark 
streak  beyond,  which  he  took  for  open  water,  when 
he  found  that  the  floe  upon  which  he  stood  was  in  mo- 
tion. Retreating  over  the  bed  of  slushy  ice,  he  found 
this  to  be  really  only  a  thick  mass  of  broken  pieces  in- 
termediate between  the  moving  floe  and  the  firm  ice. 
lie  could  readily  thrust  his  ice-hook  down  through  it 
to  the  water  beneath,  and  did  so.  Reaching  the  sledge- 
party,  and  viewing  the  difficulties  of  the  situation,  ho 
decided,  all  agreeing,  on  the  impracticability  of  cross- 
ing at  this  season.  They  accordingly  displayed  signal- 
torches  from  the  top  of  an  iceberg,  as  agreed  upon, 
that  Lieutenant  Greely  might  know  that  they  had 
found  the  crossing  dangerous  and  had  abandoned  the 
effort.  They  returned  in  darkness,  and  with  consid- 
erable difficulty,  guided  somewhat  by  a  signal-torch 
displayed  by  Ellis  at  the  snow-house.  They  remained 
all  day  at  the  snow-house,  which  the  men  found  so 
comfortable  that  they  preferred  it  to  the  restraints  of 
the  station.  At  noon  Lockwood  and  Brainard  went 
upon  a  tramp,  and  found  the  condition  of  the  open 
water  to  be  such  as  to  demonstrate  the  wisdom  of  their 
return  the  evening  before.  The  men  made  some  ad- 
ditions to  the  snow-house,  which  were  regarded  as  a 
great  success.  The  return  to  the  station  on  the  7th 
was  attended  with  more  difficulty  and  labor  than  had 
been  expected,  arising  from  a  strong  south  wind  hav- 
ing worn  away  the  foot-ice,  and  the  small  amount  of 
light ;  hence,  they  soon  had  wet  feet,  which  in  that 
region  always  means  frost-bitten  feet.    So  much  were 

some  of  the  men  used  up  by  this  journey  of  twenty 
6 


5*i  i 


IB 


'  61 


i 


120 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


|::| 


miles,  which  had  before  been  made  in  one  day,  that 
they  had  to  bo  conveyed  on  the  sledge,  and  did  not 
reach  the  station  till  the  third  day.  At  Dutch  Island 
they  met  Whistler,  who,  missing  Biederbick  at  the 
ropes  and  seeing  a  human  form  on  the  sledge,  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  Biederbick  was  dead,  and  re- 
peatedly exclaimed,  "Poor  Biederbick!  poor  Bieder- 
bick I " 

During  a  period  of  dullness  at  the  station,  Rico 
and  Ilenry  projected  a  newspaper,  to  be  called  the 
"Arctic  Moon,"  and  Lockwood,  to  whom,  also,  the 
idea  had  occurred,  agreed  to  join  them  as  one  of  the 
editors.  They  wanted  something  to  dispel  the  mo- 
notony which  was  depressing  all  hands,  as  all  were 
tired  of  reading,  of  cards  and  other  games,  while  two 
of  Lockwood's  room-mates  were  gloomy  and  taciturn. 
To  counteract  this,  he  resumed  his  reading,  especially 
history  and  travels — anything  but  novels.  Kane's 
work  interested  him  especially,  and  ho  considered 
him  a  remarkable  man,  courageous,  energetic,  and  de- 
termined. Their  own  manner  of  life  just  then  re- 
minded Lockwood  of  a  rainy  day  in  the  country  in- 
tensified. "Yet,"  says  he,  "why  not  be  contented? 
Books  and  leisure  afford  an  opportunity  for  reading 
and  studying  which  we  may  never  have  again.  Wo 
have  a  warm,  comfortable  house,  plenty  of  food,  and 
other  things  which  many  are  without.  Life  in  this 
world  is  just  what  one  chooses  to  make  it.  Man  can 
makft  of  it  a  heaven  or  a  hell."  He  felt  anxious  as  to 
the  effect  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  sunless  days  upon 
himself  and  men,  as  this  might  tell  on  their  sledging 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS. 


121 


i       i 


in  the  coming  spring.  Narcs's  people  broke  down 
under  it,  and,  when  sledging,  were  decimated  by  the 
scurvy.  Tiiey  themselves  were  fortunate  so  far  in  not 
having  had  a  single  man  sick  enough  to  keep  his  bed. 

True  to  his  intellectual  instincts,  Lockwood  formed 
a  class  in  geography  and  grammar,  consisting  of  Elli- 
son, Bender,  Connell,  and  Whistler,  while  Lieutenant 
Grecly  taught  them  arithmetic.  On  the  2M  of  No- 
vember appeared,  with  a  flourish  of  trumpets,  the  first 
number  of  the  "Arctic  Moon."  Of  course  the  editors 
thought  it  a  great  success.  It  had  for  the  frontispiece 
a  sketch  of  the  house,  drawn  by  Lockwood,  while  Rico 
made  fair  copies  of  the  paper  by  the  hectograph  pro- 
cess— enough  for  all,  and  many  to  spare. 

These  trifles  served  to  shorten,  apparently,  tlio 
many  hours  of  gloom  and  darkness,  which  were  wear- 
ing away  the  spirits  of  all.  The  men  were  now  far 
less  hilarious  than  they  had  been,  and,  with  the  game 
of  chess  to  assist,  silence  reigned  supreme. 

Thanksgiving  -  day,  with  its  games,  sports,  and 
dinner,  gave  them  a  pleasant  variety.  First,  came 
the  snow-shoe  race  of  one  hundred  yards,  Brainard, 
victor.  Next,  the  foot-race,  with  many  contestants, 
but  Ellis  coming  out  ahead.  Then  the  dog- team  race 
to  Dutch  Island  and  return,  under  the  Esquimaux 
Jans  and  Frederick,  the  latter,  victor.  And,  finally, 
a  shooting-match,  necessarily  at  short  range,  and  with 
torches,  Henry,  victor.  These  and  other  out-door 
exercises  were  followed  by  the  grand  feature  of  the 
day,  the  Thanksgiving  dinner,  and  not  a  poor  one 
either,  even  for  a  lower  latitude  than  eighty-two  de- 


1 

'  ■ ' '! 
s  ill 


! 


)t^ 


i. 


122 


FARTHEST  NOllTIT. 


^^ 


grees.  In  tho  evening  Lieutenant  Grccly  gave  out 
prizes  to  the  victors  and  second  best,  Kico  acting  as 
master  of  ceremonies,  rigged  out  in  swallow-tail  coat, 
black  pantaloons,  white  vest,  and  "boiled"  shirt.  Tho 
mercury  froze  on  that  day,  and  Lieutenant  Greely 
brought  in  a  teacupful,  which  looked  like  lead  as  it 
comes  from  tho  mold.  The  moon  also  made  its  ap- 
pearance, and  all  fully  appreciated  tho  blessing  of  this 
luminary. 

**  What  a  change,"  exclaimed  Lockwood,  "  when 
she  comes  forth  in  all  her  beauty  and  loveliness, 
flooding  the  landscape  with  her  refulgent  beams  and 
cheering  the  drooping  spirits  of  benighted  mortals  I 
Even  tho  poor  dogs  feel  her  influence  ! "  On  the 
1st  of  December,  they  had  an  almost  total  eclipse  of 
the  moon,  more  remarkable  there  than  an  eclipse  of 
the  sun  elsewhere.  During  the  phenomenon,  the  ex- 
posed part  of  the  disk  was  of  a  dull-red  color.  Lock- 
wood  took  the  altitude  of  the  moon  while  crossing 
the  meridian,  using  a  saucer  of  molasses  as  an  arti- 
ficial horizon.  She  flooded  the  whole  region  with  a 
light,  electric  in  appearance,  and  causing  deep  shad- 
ows. In  the  evening  they  were  treated  to  a  disjilay  of 
mock  moons,  with  a  circular  band  of  bright  light  con- 
necting them,  and  several  bands  or  ribbons  of  light  at 
various  angles,  but  all  passing  through  the  moon. 

The  Esquimaux,  Jans  and  Frederick,  having  of 
late  been  much  depressed,  efforts  were  made  by  kind- 
ly attentions  on  the  part  of  Lieutenant  Greely  and 
others  to  dispel  their  gloom  and  assure  them  of  the 
friendly  feeling   entertained   toward   them  by  all. 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITION'S. 


123 


m 


i 


These  good  offices,  liowevcr,  all  failed.  Dr.  Pary  said 
this  state  of  mind  was  not  infrequent  among  the  natives 
of  lower  Greenland,  and  often  resulted  iu  tlic  wander- 
ing off  of  the  subjects  of  it,  and,  if  not  followed,  by 
their  perishing  in  the  cold.  One  morning  Jans  was 
missing,  and  at  once  his  tracks  were  followed  by  Dr. 
Pavy,  Brainard,  Rice,  and  Whistler,  with  the  dog- 
sledge.  Late  iu  the  afternoon  thoy  returned  with 
poor  Jans,  who  was  found  nine  miles  away,  follow- 
ing at  a  rapid  pace  the  ice-foot  around  Capo  Murchi- 
son.  lie  returned  unwillingly,  and  gave  no  reason 
for  his  strange  conduct.  Kice  and  Whistler  were  both 
rendered  hors  de  combat  by  the  journey,  the  former 
by  a  fall  from  an  ice-hummock,  tho  latter  by  conges- 
tion of  tho  brain  owing  to  having  shaved  before  go- 
ing out.  Both  Dr.  Kane  and  Dr.  Rink  (in  his  book 
on  Greenland)  refer  to  hallucinations  similar  to  that 
of  Jans,  and  the  frequent  fatal  consequences. 

On  tho  14th  of  December  appeared  the  second 
number  of  the  *' Arctic  Moon,"  which  was  thought 
to  be  an  improvement  on  number  one,  and  was  well 
received.  Lieutenant  Greely  gave  a  lecture  on  the 
**  Polar  Question." 

On  the  same  day  also,  Esquimaux  Frederick  came 
to  Lieutenant  Greely  and  asked  permission  to  leave 
the  station,  and,  when  asked  why,  said  some  one  was 
going  to  shoot  him — a  strange  hallucination  I 

On  the  20th  Lock  wood  writes :  **  The  sun  now  be- 
gins his  journey  to  the  north  ;  the  backbone  of  the 
winter  is  broken  I  Walking  out  at  noon  to-day,  I  was 
just  able  to  see  the  hands  of  my  watch  by  holding  it 


!l 


I      I 


I 


^1 


1  i'^ 
i  ^1 ; 

. 

J- 

1 

i 

J 

ji 

ill 

124 


FARTUEST  NOKTH. 


close  to  my  eye.  The  profound  silence  of  this  region 
is  quite  as  striking,  and  almost  as  disagreeable,  as  tiio 
darkness.  Standing  still,  one  can  almost  hear  his  heart 
beat.  The  sense  of  solitude  is  sublime."  Speaking  of 
Arctic  literature,  he  says  that  **  Hayes'  book,  though 
beautifully  written,  is  far  below  that  of  Kane  as  to 
information  and  reliability.  Ko  one  who  has  been 
up  Smith's  Sound  can  fail  to  notice  this." 

On  the  24th  of  December,  after  eating  a  birthday 
dinner,  the  Christmas  presents  from  an  unknown 
friend  to  every  one  of  the  party,  were  distributed. 
The  rooms  were  appropriately  decorated,  and  every- 
thing was  done  to  render  the  occasion  cheerful  and 
pleasant.  Those  articles  not  specifically  assigned  by 
the  donor  were  disposed  of  by  lottery. 

Lockwood  indulged  in  the  following  reflections : 
"  How  suggestive  of  home  and  of  the  dear  ones 
there  I  How  often  do  my  thoughts  wander  away  to 
them !  Has  Providence  been  equally  kin^'  to  them 
as  to  me  ?  The  day  with  mo  suggests  alternately 
the  past  and  the  future.  "Will  next  Christmas  find 
mo  here,  with  everything  around  as  auspicious  as 
now,  and  shall  I  then  be  able  to  look  back  with  satis- 
faction and  self-complacency  on  my  labors  along  the 
Greenland  coast  ?  Or  will  the  future  bring  a  record 
of  dreams  unsatisfied,  of  efforts  unproductive,  of  labor 
in  vain  ?  My  mind  is  far  away  with  that  group  at 
home  assembled  together  and  doubtless  regretting  that 
the  absent  one  is  not  of  their  number.  Could  I  but 
see  them  for  an  hour,  or  know  that  all  is  well  with 
them,  I  should  rejoice,  indeed  ! " 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXTEDITIONS. 


125 


Tho  "Limc-Juicc  Club"  gave  an  cntertiiinmcnt 
on  tljo  fiamc  evening,  at  whicli  Snyder  alTocted  Jans 
to  tears  by  bis  personation  of  an  Esquimaux  hidy, 
and  Connell  brougbt  down  tbc  bouse  as  a  martinet 
captain,  by  exelaiming,  wlien  a  soldier  wbo  bad  sbot 
bimself  was  brouglit  in  :  **  Very  sad  affair,  very  sad, 
indeed  I  Cbargo  bim  witb  two  cartridges  expended, 
Sergeant." 

Lieutenant  Grcely  also  gave  tbe  party  as  a  lecture, 
"Reminiscences  of  tbc  Battle  of  Fredericksburg," 
wbicb  was  interesting  and  two  bours  long,  tbougb 
entirely  ex  tempore ;  and  Lockwood  was  announced 
to  lecture  on  "Arctic  Sledging." 

On  tbe  31st,  rations  of  rum  were  issued  to  belp  tbc 
men  welcome  in  tbe  new  year.  Tbey  were  also  to  firo 
a  salute  witb  rifles.  Fiddles  were  in  full  blast,  witb 
singing  and  otber  marks  of  bilarity. 

Lockwood's  lecture  on  "Arctic  Sledging"  was 
given  January  3,  1882,  and  was  well  received.  Being 
confirmed  in  bis  opinion  tbat  be  was  no  public  speak- 
er, be  intended  to  leave  lecturing  for  otbers  tberc- 
after.  On  tbe  9tb  be  took  bis  usual  walk,  notwitb- 
standing  tbe  tbermometer  was  at  60°  below  zero,  and 
felt  tbe  cold  cbiefly  on  bis  nose.  It  seemed  curious 
to  him,  tbat  wbcn  tbe  tbermometer  was  lowest,  tbe 
air  was  stillest.  Were  it  otberwise,  be  supposed  ex- 
istence in  tbe  Arctic  would  be  an  impossibility. 

But  severe  as  was  the  weather,  it  did  not  deter 
him  from  the  study  of  science,  as  will  be  seen  by  the 
following  record,  made  on  the  9th  of  January  :  "I 
have  been  looking  up  the  subject  of  nautical  astrono- 


«      \ 


m' 


\  I 


si 


1  ■*. 


126 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


'HI 


5f 


my  for  gome  time  past,  and  to-day  and  this  even- 
ing, taking  sextant,  mercury,  etc.,  and  establishing 
an  observatory  on  top  of  an  old  barrel  in  front  of 
the  house,  commenced  observations  on  the  transit  of 
Markab,  Capella,  and  other  stars,  but  have  not  been 
very  successful.  Everything  conspires  against  one  in 
this  climate.  It  reminds  me  of  my  observations  last 
spring.  However,  I  hope  by  dint  of  practice  to  do 
better.  The  winter  is  passing  away  slowly  but  surely. 
The  time  is  coming  when  I  shall  look  at  these  stars 
from  grassy  fields,  on  a  summer  night,  in  the  temper- 
ate zone,  I  hope.  The  stars  up  here  are  very  bright, 
and  a  great  many  of  them  circle  around  the  pole  and 
never  set.  It  is  a  beautiful  sight.  Arcturus,  Aldeba- 
ran,  and  others,  besides  being  very  bright,  show  dif- 
ferent colors,  red,  violet,  and  green.  Jupiter  looks 
immense." 

Still  absorbed  with  his  astronomical  studies,  he 
gives  us  the  following  on  the  13th  of  the  same  month  : 
"  The  moon  appeared  after  noon.  How  welcome  she 
is !  How  a  poet  would  rave  over  the  moon  could  he 
once  experience  a  polar  winter  ! — not  simply  an  Arctic 
winter,  for  anywhere  north  of  the  Arctic  Circle  is  the 
Arctic,  and  the  dark  days  which  most  expeditions 
have  seen  are  trifling  compared  with  ours.  I  think  it 
v/ould  be  a  good  idea  to  exile  a  first-class  poet  into 
these  regions  for  the  purpose,  but  give  him  to  un- 
derstand he  was  never  to  return.  How  he  would 
sing ! " 

On  the  13th,  they  had  a  phenomenon  they  had  nev- 
er heard  of — the  precipitation  of  vapor  with  a  per- 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS. 


127 


fectly  clear  sky.  It  resembled  a  heavy  mist  or  light 
rain. 

On  the  10th  occurred  the  first  hurricane  of  the 
season.  It  began  in  the  morning  with  heavy  south 
wind  and  sudden  fall  of  barometer.  At  noon  the 
wind  whipped  round  to  the  northeast  and  blew  with 
indescribable  fury,  filling  the  air  with  snow-drifts,  and 
blotting  out  the  view  of  everything  even  a  few  feet 
distant.  The  anemometer  registered  sixty-five  miles, 
and  then  broke  down.  The  noise  of  the  storm,  as 
heard  from  the  house,  was  as  though  on  shipboard.  It 
must  have  given  way  but  for  the  ice  walls  around  it. 

On  the  20th,  Lieutenant  Greely  issued  a  circular 
letter,  calling  attention  to  the  order  that  all  should 
be  up  for  breakfast.  Kislingbury  and  Dr.  Pavy  took 
exceptions  to  this,  and  the  latter  declined  to  lecture 
in  his  turn. 

The  next  evening  occurred  a  beautiful  and  unique 
auroral  display,  the  chief  features  of  which  were  many 
broad  bands  of  pure  white  passing  through  the  zenith 
and  reaching  to  the  east  and  to  the  west  horizon, 
which  blended,  twisted,  and  curled  in  upon  each  oth- 
er in  a  very  remarkable  manmr.  The  spectacle  waa 
viewed  with  wonder  and  amazement. 

On  the  26th,  the  twilight  at  noonday  was  quite 
bright.  The  moon  also  lent  her  aid  ;  but  low  spirits 
and  a  sense  of  oppression  and  homesickness  pre  'liled, 
all  induced,  doubtless,  by  want  of  exercise,  and  loneli- 
ness. 

"Another  twenty-four  hours,"  wrote  Lockwood, 
on  the  6th  of  February,  "  of  this  interminable  night 


I 


M 


*  1 


(     I, 


'M 


1 


I. 


i' ,1 


128 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


nearly  gone  !  Tliank  God !  Sometimes  it  seems  as  if 
this  life  must  hold  on  forever,  but  tempus  fugit  up 
here  as  well  as  elsewhere.  The  days  and  weeks  seem 
weeks  and  months  in  passing,  and  yet,  in  the  retro- 
spect, time  seems  to  have  passed  quickly,  because 
there  is  so  little  in  the  past  to  mark  its  progress,  I 
suppose." 

Lockwood  could  not  realize  the  extreme  cold,  and 
seldom  wore  his  gloves  when  going  out  for  a  few 
minutes.  Though  he  put  on  a  thick  dog-skin  coat 
and  seal-skin  over-all  when  taking  his  daily  walk,  he 
really  did  not  regard  so  much  clothing  necessary. 
Exposure  to  such  low  temperatures,  however,  for 
several  hours,  and  particularly  at  night,  was  to  be 
dreaded.  Many  authorities — among  others  Lieuten- 
ant Grcely — spoke  of  a  peculiar  sensation  in  the 
throat  on  first  encountering  a  very  low  temperature, 
as  when  going  out  of  doors  from  a  warm  room,  but 
such  was  not  Lockwood's  experience.  Provided  it 
was  calm,  he  could  stand  any  degree  of  cold  he  had 
yet  met  with.  Owing  to  the  peculiar  and  admirable 
construction  of  their  house,  the  men  were  able  to  keep 
rp  50°  of  heat  within,  however  cold  without. 

On  the  13th  of  February,  Lockwood  with  t^ro  men 
went  to  see  what  damage  had  resulted  from  the  late 
storm  to  the  observatory  on  the  summit  of  Bcllot 
Island,  Contrary  to  their  expectations,  they  found 
the  snow  not  only  deep,  but  with  a  crusi  just  firm 
enough  wo/  to  bear.  Consequently,  the;  sent  the 
dog-sledge  back,  and  proceeded  on  foot,  frequently 
"-mking  down  knee-deep.     Though  the  thermometer 


PRELIMIXiVJlY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS. 


129 


stood  at  —  65°,  they  got  inio  a  profuse  perspiration, 
which  was  not  lessened  by  the  steep  and  slippery  as- 
cent of  two  thousand  feet.  From  this  point  the  sta- 
tion-house seemed  only  a  black  spot,  and  was  hardly 
recognizable  as  a  house.  Having  made  their  inspec- 
tion and  fired  their  rifles  several  times  as  agreed  upon 
with  Lieutenant  Grecly,  who  was  experimenting  on 
sound,  they  returned.  The  result  of  these  experi- 
ments was,  that  at  —65°  sound  travels  nine  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  per  second.  This  was  the  coldest  day 
they  had  yet  experienced,  and  still  they  did  not  suffer 
with  the  cold. 

The  return  to  a  warm  house  was  an  indescribable 
comfort,  and  Lockwood  thought  that  if  this  could 
always  be  done,  Arctic  journeying  would  then  be 
nothing.  It  was  unprecedentedly  cold  even  for  that 
latitude.  Pure  brandy  and  also  glycerine  were  frozen 
hard.  The  poor  dogs  suffered,  yet  many  of  them 
preferred  to  remain  curled  up  on  the  snow-banks 
outside,  to  occupying  the  tent  and  holes  prepared 
for  them. 

On  the  19th,  Lockwood  made  a  dog-slcdgc  trip 
with  Biainard  and  the  Esquimaux  Frederick  to  Depot 
"B,"  to  look  for  a  good  place  to  cross  the  straits. 
Found  that  the  snow  had  drifted  so  as  to  form  a  con- 
tinuous inclined  plane  from  the  bluffs  far  outbade  the 
snow-house  and  tent,  thus  almost  concealing  them. 
They  recognized  the  spot  oply  by  seeing  the  stove-pipe 
jutting  above  the  snow.  Knowing  how  the  mouth  of 
the  tunnel  lay  from  this  point,  they  dug  through  the 
hard,  compact  snow,  cleared  out  the  tunjiel,  and  soon 


i 

W 


\  i'% 


1^ 


,1 


I 


I 


■■.! 


M 


m 


r  I 


130 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


found  themselves  within  the  snow-house.  The  little 
stove  was  swallowed  up  in  a  cone  of  snow  reaching 
from  roof  to  floor.  This  had  drifted  through  a  small 
aperture  where  the  pipe  pierced  the  roof.  The  fire 
going  out  after  they  turned  in,  the  room  became  ex- 
tremely damp  and  chilly.  However,  they  made  up 
for  the  discomforts  of  the  night  by  a  rousing  fire  in 
the  morning,  over  which  they  got  up  a  grand  break- 
fast of  musk-ox  steak,  beans,  coffee,  and  hard-tack. 
They  next  sent  the  team  with  Frederick  down  to  St. 
Patrick's  Bay  for  a  bag  of  coal,  while  Lockwood  and 
Brainard  walked  over  the  straits  toward  Polaris  Pro- 
montory. Going  out  some  four  or  five  miles  over  ice 
of  varied  nature,  some  exceedingly  broken  and  hum- 
mocky  and  some  quite  level,  they  returned,  satisfied 
that  the  cime  for  crossing  over  was  not  yet.  Frede- 
rick had,  in  the  mean  time,  returned,  mended  up  the 
hole  in  the  roof,  made  a  good  fire,  and  prepared  a 
warm  meal. 

They  again  started  out  to  test  the  important  pas- 
sage, taking  a  route  farther  north.  There  the  rubble- 
ice  reached  only  two  hundred  yards  from  the  shore, 
beyond  which,  as  far  as  they  walked  and  could  see, 
smooth  ice  extended.  They  returned,  satisfied  that 
this  was  the  place  to  attempt  the  passa^j  when  the 
time  should  arrive  for  their  contemplated  exploration 
farther  north. 

They  made  the  trip  over  the  foot-ice  to  the  station 
(twenty  miles)  in  four  hours,  thus  proving  the  fine 
condition  of  the  sledge  and  dogs  for  traveling,  and  thi 
eagemeBB  of  the  dogs  to  rejoin  their  companions  and 


PRELIMINARY  SLEDGE  EXPEDITIONS. 


131 


pups.  All  the  way,  they  had  before  them  to  the 
southward  a  rich  glow  on  the  horizon  like  the  sun- 
rise of  a  fine  morning  at  home.  They  found  the  men 
celebrating  the  22d  of  February  by  match-games  of 
yarious  kinds,  and,  after  listening  to  an  appropriate 
speech  on  the  Father  of  his  Country,  enjoyed  a  good 
dinner. 


I 


1  t  i 


'    LP 


m 


'{11 
i' 

Hi 


4 


"THE  ARCTIC  MOON." 


As  already  mentioned  in  this  narrative,  among  the 
events  which  occurred  at  the  Greely  Scientific  Colony, 
or  Fort  Conger,  was  the  establishment  of  a  newspaper, 
the  first  ever  issued  so  near  the  north  pole,  the  near- 
est approach  to  it  previously  having  been  **The  Ice- 
Blink,"  issued  by  Kane's  Expedition  in  1854.  It  was 
projected  by  G.  AV.  Rice  and  C.  B.  Henry,  but  Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood  was  the  editor-in-chief.  The  sheet 
was  fifteen  by  nineteen  inches  in  size,  first  prepared 
in  manuscript  and  then  multiplied  by  photograph, 
published  on  the  2d  of  November,  1881,  and  semi- 
monthly as  to  time.  As  the  musk-oxen,  the  walruses, 
and  the  bears  and  wolves  of  Grinnell  Land  took  no 
interest  in  the  enterprise,  the  patrons  of  the  paper 
were  confined  to  the  colony  of  explorers.  In  his 
opening  address,  the  editor  proudly  claimed  that  his 
corps  of  contributors  embraced  the  finest  minds  in  the 
country  ;  that  his  reporters  would  always  be  **on  the 
spot "  ;  that  the  journal  was  certain  to  be  superior  to 
any  other  in  the  country ;  and  that  the  subscription 
list  numbered  not  less  than  twenty-five  thousand — the 
last  assertion  being  a  servile  imitation  of  what  often 
appears  in  the  papers  of  New  York  and  other  Araeri- 


t  ■^ 


"THE  ARCTIC  MOON." 


133 


can  cities.  And  now,  by  way  of  giving  the  reader  an 
idea  of  the  style  and  character  of  this  unique  jour- 
nal, it  is  proposed  to  reproduce  in  this  chapter,  as 
specimens,  a  collection  of  its  editorials,  contributions, 
items  of  news,  and  advertisements.  In  an  article  on 
**  Christmas,"  the  editor  gives  us  the  following  pathet- 
ic reflections : 

*'  Our  Christmas-time  has  come  and  gone,  and, 
although  our  geographical  position  is  not  a  favorable 
one  for  the  complete  observation  of  this  joyous  anni- 
versary, it  was  attended  with  many  of  the  happy  feat- 
ures that  make  its  memory  a  pleasant  landmark  of  the 
dying  year.  No  boughs  of  *  evergreen  were  berried 
bright'  (our  crop  of  evergreens  failed  this  season),  but 
had  they  existed,  the  conditions  for  making  them 
*  white  with  rime '  were  very  favorable. 

"Christmas  always  attracts  a  crowd  of  joyous 
faces,  and,  although  we  missed  the  pleasure  of  *  child- 
hood's grace  and  fair  maiden's  blushes'  under  the 
mystic  mistletoe,  the  stalwart,  bearded  men  who 
grasped  hands  under  our  smoke-begrimed  roof  felt 
indeed  the  inspiration  of  the  gladsome  time  when  the 
voice  of  man's  good-will  to  man  speaks  forth  in  every- 
thing. Could  the  possessors  of  the  kind  hearts  and 
hands  that  contributed  so  much  to  the  pleasure  of  the 
party  have  looked  in  upon  the  happy,  smiling  faces, 
living  again  a  day  of  their  youth  in  the  anticipation 
and  surprise  attending  the  bestowal  and  opening  of 
the  mysterious  packages  containing  the  presents,  they 
would  have  felt  more  than  rewarded  for  their  kind 
thoughtfulness.     Lips  unused  to  the  task  framed 


lf;^n 


l^ 


M 


134 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


i 


ir 


i. 


|ihl 


'9    n'li 


grateful  acknowledgments  of  the  kind  act.  The  in- 
terest in  our  happiness  taken  by  the  wife  of  the  com- 
manding officer  was  repeatedly  shown,  and  when,  as 
we  sat  down  to  our  inviting  Christmas  dinner,  wo 
contemplated  a  crowning  proof  of  her  kind  good-will, 
repressed  enthusiasm  could  no  longer  be  restrained, 
and  three  rousing  cheers  for  Mrs.  Greely  were  given 
with  an  effect  which  proved  beyond  cavil  the  vigor  of 
our  lungs,  and  rendered  unnecessary  the  weekly  ex- 
amination of  the  doctor. 

"  Of  course,  the  festive  season  brought  with  it  re- 
grets that  would  not  be  repressed,  and  longings  that 
could  not  be  satisfied,  when  processions  of  absent 
loved  ones  and  severed  friends  followed  the  funerals 
of  other  Christmas-days  through  thoughts  that  would 
wander  over  snow,  and  ice,  and  land,  and  sea,  to  the 
happy  firesides  where  we  knew  they  were  gathered. 
But  every  one  looked  on  the  bright  side  of  things,  and 
extracted  as  much  comfort  and  pleasure  as  possible 
under  the  circumstances  ;  we  even  knew  one  sordid 
individual  who  congratulated  himself  on  the  immu- 
nity of  his  exchequer  from  the  heavy  drafts  generally 
entailed  by  the  purchase  of  Christmas  presents.  We 
have  not  space  to  enter  into  a  detailed  account  of  all 
the  happy  features  of  the  holiday.  Altogether,  our 
Christmas  was  a  great  success.'* 

By  way  of  showing  that  there  was  nothing  very 
frigid  in  the  hearts  of  the  explorers,  another  editorial 
is  submitted,  on  the  New  Year  : 

"  Christmas  is  gone,  with  all  its  pleasant  associa- 
tions, and  we  find  ourselves  on  the  threshold  of  a  new 


i 


"THE  ARCTIC  MOON." 


135 


year.  "What  thoughts  the  day  recalls  to  a  reflective 
mind  I  the  exodus  of  the  old,  the  advent  of  the  new 
year ;  the  past  and  the  future,  history  and  p/ophecy, 
the  ceaseless  alternation  of  life  and  death,  the  bternity 
of  nature. 

"The  day  is  suggestive  in  another  way.  Where 
were  we  a  year  ago  ?  what  doing  ?  what  looking  for- 
ward to  ?  Where  shall  we  be  a  year  from  now  ?  what 
will  be  our  surroundings,  and  what  shall  we  look  back 
upon  ?  How  distant  seemed  this  day  a  year  ago  I 
how  short  now  seems  the  time  that  has  since  elapsed  I 

"  The  new  year  of  1882  finds  us  a  community  of 
twenty-five  men,  living  through  the  cold  and  dark- 
ness of  an  Arctic  winter,  in  a  small  house  near  the 
north  pole,  thousands  of  miles  beyond  any  civilized 
habitation.  A  year  ago  saw  us  scattered — some  in 
the  cities,  some  on  the  plains  of  the  far  West,  some 
occupied  in  quiet  routine,  some  in  the  ceaseless 
changes  and  activity  of  the  field.  Will  the  next  year 
find  us  here  with  our  surroundings  as  satisfactory  and 
auspicious  ?  We  trust  so,  and  this  day  is  eminently 
a  day  for  making  good  resolutions.  We  are  free 
agents,  and  the  future  depends,  in  great  part,  on  our- 
selves. Let  us,  then,  determine  that,  so  far  as  lies 
within  our  power,  we  shall  have  no  cause  to  look  back 
with  regret  on  the  year  just  ushered  in.  The  phrase 
is  hackneyed,  but  none  the  less  true  : 

'  Of  all  sad  words  of  tongue  or  pen, 
The  saddest  are  these — it  might  have  been.' " 

And  now  we  come  to  a  contribution  addressed  to 
the  editor  of  the  "  Arctic  Moon,"  as  follows  : 


*■?:,. 


'  S' 


I  M  ■' 


■■J 


J; 


I 


136 


FAUTUEST  NOUTII. 


"As  Grinncll  Land  is  a  recognized  Territory 
of  the  United  States,  and  has  a  territorial  form  of 
government,  a  delegate  from  tliis  Territory  is  to  bo 
elected  who  is  to  take  his  seat  at  the  opening  of  the 
Forty-seventh  Congress.  The  undersigned  offers  him- 
self as  a  candidate  for  the  office,  on  tlie  following 
platform :  I  am  in  favor  of  reaching  the  north  polo 
by  balloon,  a  liberal  appropriation  for  the  purchase  of 
lime-juice,  compulsory  education,  unlimited  emigra- 
tion, a  homestead  and  sixty  acres  of  land,  one  musk- 
ox  and  two  Esquimaux  dogs  to  each  actual  settler.  I 
am  also  a  strong  advocate  of  woman's  rights,  but  there 
is  no  good  in  rights  without  the  woman.  I  am  pre- 
pared to  *  chaw '  the  points  on  the  above  platform  ;  I 
think  it  is  *  plump,*  and  will  stand  without  being 
propped  up. 

(Signed)  "Cornell." 


'■I' I 


And  now,  under  the  general  heading  of  "  Moon- 
BcamSy'*  wc  come  to  the  following  paragraphs,  which 
are  not  only  spicy,  but  characteristic  of  the  time  and 
place  with  which  they  are  identified  : 

"  The  British  expedition  found  the  ice  in  this  har- 
bor, January  1,  1876,  twenty-eight  and  three-quarter 
inches  thick.  Measurements  made  this  day  showed 
thirty-four  inches.  Our  average  temperature  for  De- 
cember was  nearly  eight  degrees  lower  than  theirs  for 
the  same  month. 

**  The  darkest  day  being  a  thing  of  the  past,  we 
shall  soon  find  ourselves  sliding  down  hill  quite  rap- 
idly.    Wo  have  made  complete  arrangements  to  have 


"THE  ARCTIC  MOON." 


137 


tlio  sun  interviewed  on  his  return  to  this  country  tlio 
latter  part  of  February. 

"The  walrus  seem  to  have  emigrated,  so  that  tho 
Dutch  Island  people  now  take  their  daily  exercise  in 

***I  wonder  what  is  in  tho  mess-boxes?'  is  tho 
oft-repeated  query.  Ilavo  patience,  brethren,  timo 
will  show. 

"  Old  Probabilities  will  bo  surprised  to  learn,  that 
his  enterprising  colony  at  this  point  is  indulging  in  out- 
door sports  with  tho  thermometer  at  40°  below  zero. 

"To-day,  at  Dutch  Island,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury 
was  able  to  see  tho  time  of  day  holding  his  watch 
about  one  foot  from  his  face. 

"  Sergeant  Cross  has  made  another  addition  to  his 
already  numerous  trades — that  of  bottling  samples  of 
air  for  the  examination  and  scrutiny  of  those  not  fa- 
vored with  a  sniff  of  Arctic  breezes. 

**  Sergeant  Brainard  is  excellent  authority  for  tho 
statement  that  the  gate-money  taken  at  the  racing 
contest  will  be  devoted  to  the  advancement  of  geo- 
graphical knowledge  within  the  Arctic  Circle.  Such 
being  the  case,  the  number  of  aborigines  present  will 
be  a  crucial  test  of  the  desire  on  tli^  part  of  the  Grin- 
nellites  to  bring  their  country  into  more  general 
knowledge. 

"Wimted — A  good  family  horse.  Will  buy  it 
cheap,  or  will  take  for  his  keeping,  or  keep  for  his 
taking.  To  be  used  on  good  country  roads  and  for 
family  driving.  Must  be  very  gentle.  No  objections 
to  a  Government  mule.    Address  Jacob  Doboy. 


1; 

,      /^ 

1      ' 

■    > 

* 

i 
I 
il 

i 

) 


138 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


El 


I! 


■;'-.< 


"Wanted — A  poot  for  the  'Arctic  Moon/  Must 
be  strictly  temperate  and  a  good  speech-maker.  No 
tailors  need  apply.     Address  tliis  otJico. 

**  Wanted — A  humoristic  writer  for  the  *  Arctic 
Moon.'  The  present  incumbent  has  suddenly  be- 
Gome  ill  from  too  close  application. 

**  Information  wanted  of  the  Greely  Arctic  Expe- 
dition. It  strayed  away  from  homo  last  July,  and 
was  last  heard  from  at  Upernavik,  Greenland. 

"  We  beg  leave  to  announce  to  the  public  that  wo 
have  made  extensive  improvements  in  our  establish- 
ment, whereby  we  can  furnish  at  the  shortest  notice 
bread,  twists,  rolls,  cakes,  pies,  tarts,  and,  in  fact, 
anything  in  the  baker's  line.  Wedding  cakes  made  a 
specialty.  Are  thankful  for  past  patronage,  and  re- 
spectfully ask  its  continuance  in  future. 
"  Frederick  Shootman, 
"  San  Frakcisco  Longman, 

"Merchant  Bakers.'* 


XI. 


It 


EXPEDITION  TO   LOCKWOOD   ISLAND. 

Ox  tho  29th  of  February,  Lieutenant  Ijockwood 
went  upon  an  experimental  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor 
preparatory  to  his  proposed  grand  expedition  along 
tho  coast  of  Northern  Grc  nland.  His  companions 
were  Brainard,  Jewell,  Long,  and  the  Esquimaux, 
Frederick  and  Jans,  with  two  dog-teams.  As  tho 
dogs,  constantly  yelping  and  howling,  competed  for 
the  mastery,  they  traveled  rapidly,  and,  after  many 
twistings  and  turnings,  reached  their  destination, 
where  they  found  the  observatory  still  standing. 
They  took  a  necessary  inventory,  and,  after  a  survey 
of  the  dismal  plain,  visited  the  grave  of  C.  F.  Hall, 
where  Lieutenant  Lockwood  recorded  the  following 
touching  notice  in  his  journal :  **  The  head-board 
erected  by  his  comrades,  as  also  the  metallic  one  left 
by  the  English,  still  stands.  How  mournful  to  me  the 
scene,  made  more  so  by  the  howling  of  the  winds 
and  the  thick  atmosphere !  It  was  doubtless  best 
that  he  died  where  he  did.  I  have  come  to  regard 
him  as  a  visionary  and  an  enthusiast,  who  was  in- 
debted more  to  fortune  than  to  those  practical  abili- 
ties which  Kane  possessed.  Yet  he  gave  his  life  to 
the  cause,  and  that  must  always  go  far  toward  re- 


W  ■it 


140 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


deeming  the  short-comings  of  any  man.  The  conclud- 
ing lines  of  the  inscription  on  the  English  tablet,  I 
think  good  :  *  To  Captain  Hall,  who  sacrificed  his  life 
in  the  advancement  of  science,  November  8,  1871. 
This  tablet  has  been  erected  by  the  British  Polar  Ex- 
pedition of  1875,  which  followed  in  his  footsteps  and 
profited  by  his  experience.*" 

The  American  inscription  on  the  wooden  head* 
board  wan  as  follows : 


'# 


IN  MEMORY  OF 

CHARLES  FEANCIS  IiALL, 

LATE    COMMANDER   U.    3.    STEAMER    P0LARI3, 
NORTH    POLE    EXPEDITION. 

Died  November  8,  1871. 

"Ian;  the  resurrection  and  the  life;  he  that  believeth  in  aie, 
though  h'j  were  dead,  yet  shall  he  live." 

After  various  struggles  with  the  snow,  fog,  and 
cold  weather,  ending  in  frosted  feet  and  faces,  and 
after  inspecting  a  boat  left  by  Buddington,  they  re- 
turned by  way  of  the  snow-house  at  Cape  Beechy,  and, 
all  very  much  exhausted,  reached  the  station,  receiv- 
ing a  hearty  welcome.  Greely  had  been  very  anx- 
ious about  the  party,  owing  to  a  storm  of  great  vio- 
lence, and  had  sent  Dr.  Pavy  with  men  to  their  relief. 
The  trip  thus  made  covered  not  less  than  one  hundred 
and  forty  miles.  Lockwood  now  decided  that  on  the 
Ist  of  April  he  would  start  upon  his  proposed  expedi- 
tion. This  trip  occupied  his  mind  continually.  He 
hoped  he  might  bo  successful,  yet  there  were  many 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


141 


chances  of  failure.  Who  could  divine  the  future  ? 
lie  felt  that  he  ought  to  be  able  to  reach  Cape  Bri- 
tannia, but  that  was  not  enough ;  he  desired  to  do 
more. 

As  the  time  for  taking  his  departure  approached, 
Lockwood  was  greatly  troubled  with  rheumatism, 
but  still  was  very  busy  in  maturing  his  plans. 
Lieutenant  Greely  wrote  him  a  flattering  letter,  put- 
ting the  whole  plan  of  operations  in  his  hands  and 
placing  at  his  disposal  the  entire  personnel  and  mate- 
rial of  the  expedition.  This  would  include  almost  all 
who  could  take  the  field.  The  men  were  becoming 
enthusiastic  and  were  showing  an  admirable  spirit, 
although  they  knew  from  experience  that  they  were 
to  engage  in  no  child's  play.  Almost  all  of  those  se- 
lected had  shown  pluck  hitherto.  Without  this  ele- 
ment no  one  could  endure  the  hardships  that  they 
might  have  to  undergo.  Should  any  of  those  selected 
break  down  early,  there  were  excellent  substitutes 
among  those  left  behind.  Lockwood  was  pleased  with 
an  exhibition  of  pluck  by  Ellis,  who  walked  all  the  way 
from  Depot  "A"  with  a  frozen  foot,  refusing  the  offer 
of  Jewell  to  bring  him  on  the  dog-sledge.  Jewell,  on 
returning  from  Lincoln  Bay,  had  orders  to  convey 
stores  to  the  "  Gap,"  wliere  the  boat  previously  sent 
over  the  strait  lay.  Hence,  before  starting,  supplies 
would  be  placed  at  Depot  "  B,'*  at  the  **  Gap,"  and  at 
a  point  intermediate  on  the  frozen  strait. 

Having  all  things  complex  Sergeant  Brainard  was 
to  proceed  at  once  with  the  supporting  parties  to  Cape 
Sumner.    He  was  to  leave  Depot  "  B  "  with  a  weight 


I'll 


\.V\ 


142 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


■  iwj 


to  drag  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  pounds  per  man. 
Lockwood  was  to  follow  with  dog-sledge  loaded  with 
five  hundred  pounds  of  pemmican.  Thus  they  would 
concentrate  at  Cape  Sumner  with  the  six  hundred 
rations  in  hand,  together  with  seven  hundred  pounds 
of  dog  pemmican.  The  stores  embraced  pemmican, 
bacon,  corned  beef,  roast  musk-ox,  raw  musk-ox,  Eng- 
lish beef,  hard  bread,  canned  beans,  potatoes,  sugar, 
tea,  chocolate,  and  coffee,  besides  which  they  carried 
alcr-hol  for  cooking  and  lime-juice  as  an  anti-scor- 
butic. Their  sledge  ration  had  been  made  up  by  con- 
sultation with  Lieutenant  Greely,  though,  of  course, 
it  might  be  departed  from  if  circumstances  required. 
The  diet  list  was  purposely  a  varied  one.  Xo  rum  or 
spirits  were  taken  except  as  a  medicine.  The  main 
supporting  party  consisted  of  Sergeant  Lynn,  Corporal 
Ellison,  and  privates  Biederbick,  Whistler,  and  Henry, 

Lieutenant  Lockwood,  Sergeant  Jewell,  and  the 
Esquimaux  Frederick  formed  the  advance  party,  while 
Sergeants  Brainard  and  Ralston,  Corporal  Saler,  and 
privates  Connell,  Fredericks,  and  one  other  man  con- 
stituted the  second  supporting  party. 

On  the  2d  of  April,  the  main  and  second  supporting 
parties  moved  off  in  good  style,  amid  the  waving  of 
flags,  firing  of  pistols,  cheers,  and  other  demonstrations. 
Both  Lieutenants  Greely  and  Lockwood  took  occasion 
to  address  the  men  a  few  words  of  encouragement  and 
advice.  Lockwood  confined  his  remarks  to  the  neces- 
sity of  co-operation  and  subordination  as  the  chief 
essentials  to  success.  He  would  follow  with  Jewell 
and  the  dog-sledge,  and,  if  he  knew  himself,  would  not 


nan. 

. 

with 

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can, 

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cor- 

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red. 

a  or 

lain 

oral 

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the 

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and 

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lion 
and 
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veil 
not 


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EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISULND. 


143 


return  unsuccessful.  He  got  off  at  8  p.  m.,  with  Jewell, 
Frederick,  and  the  dog-sledge  Antoinette.  The  team 
of  eight  consisted  of  "  Ritenbank,  the  king,"  a  large 
white  dog,  at  whose  growl  all  the  rest  trembled ; 
**  Major,"  a  friend  of  Eitenbank,  and  a  very  useful, 
good-natured  old  fellow,  hard-working  and  quiet, 
without  any  special  characteristics;  "Howler,"  a 
large,  lean,  mean,  ill-natured  brute,  whom  they  took 
on  board  at  Disco,  and  who  lorded  it  over  the  rest  till 
Ritenbank  came  on  board  at  the  place  of  the  same 
name,  when  Howler  was  dethroned  ;  since  which  he 
had  been  morose  and  misanthropic,  and  never  associ- 
ated with  the  other  dogs.  He  set  up  the  most  un- 
earthly howling  whenever  any  other  dog  approached 
him,  especially  if  that  other  dog  had  designs  on  some- 
thing he  was  engaged  in  eating  or  trying  to  eat — a 
tin  can,  for  instance.  At  the  end  of  a  march,  when 
the  pemmican  was  being  cut  up,  and  he,  with  the 
rest,  was  awaiting  his  opportunity  to  make  a  general 
rush,  his  howling  became  almost  unendurable.  But 
he  was  especially  despicable,  because  he  allowed  any 
and  every  dog  of  the  team  to  jump  on  and  bite  him. 
His  only  redeeming  trait  was  his  earnestness  in  pull- 
ing, for,  when  the  sledge  stuck  in  deep  snow  or 
rubble-ice,  he  was  the  last  of  the  dogs  to  sit  on  his 
haunches  and  look  while  you  got  it  out.  On  sev- 
eral occasions  when  Ritenbank  was  making  efforts 
to  get  inside  the  tent  and  steal  the  meat  while  all 
were  asleep.  Howler  had  given  the  alarm  by  his  un- 
earthly howling.  His  place  in  the  team  was  on  the 
right  flank,  and  he  kept  it  all  the  time,  never  drop- 


II 


^1? 


:| 


I.   . 


.J 


m 


144 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


ping  back  and  coming  up  in  the  wrong  place,  as  did 
the  other  dogs.  Next  to  Howler  was  the  '*  Woolly 
dog,"  a  dirty-looking  cur  with  long  white  h^r,  which 
made  Howler's  life  a  burden  all  the  time  by  snapping 
at  him  as  he  hauled  by  his  side.  Next  came  the 
**kooneys,"  signifying  in  Esquimaux  mother-dogs. 
They  were  called  "Black  Kooney"  and  "White 
Kooney,"  and  were  both  good  workers.  Then  came 
"  Ask-him,"  a  pup  when  brought  on  board  in  Green- 
land, but  now  of  age,  and  bearing  the  airs  of  a  veter- 
an. He  brooked  insult  from  no  dog  but  Ritenbank, 
and  evidently  bided  his  time  to  contest  the  throne 
with  him.  He  had  even  taken  upon  himself  the 
kingly  custom  of  biting  the  adjoining  dog  whenever 
he  felt  the  whip.  On  his  left  were  two  dogs  already 
named,  "Major " and  the  " Boss."  On  the  left  flank 
was  "Gypsy,"  a  little  fat  kooney  dog  which  pulled 
only  under  the  lash,  and  yet  by  foraging  and  stealing 
managed  to  get  twice  the  rations  of  any  of  the  rest, 
and  was  always  plump  and  fat. 

The  advance  party  reached  Depot  "  A "  in  good 
time,  and  took  on  five  sacks  (five  hundred  pounds)  of 
dog  pemmican  and  some  cans  of  corned  beef,  which 
made  their  load  very  heavy. 

On  the  5th  of  April,  Lockwood  reached  the  snow- 
house,  and  there  found  Brainard  and  the  rest,  making 
thirteen  altogether.  They  completely  filled  the  house, 
and  also  the  dug-out  in  the  snow-bank  adjoining, 
Bo  that  Lockwood  and  Jewell  moved  the  provisions 
cut  of  the  tent,  and  slept  there,  and  Frederick  in 
the  tunnel.     The  tent  being  snowed  in  to  the  ridge- 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


145 


F 


pole,  and  connected  with  the  tunnel,  they  were  quite 
comfortable.  On  the  same  day  they  saw  an  eagle 
on  a  floe-berg,  which  was  considered  a  good  omen. 
After  needed  rest  all  hands  took  their  departure.  The 
snow  on  the  ice-floe  was  somewhat  deep,  and  the  loads 
very  heavy.  The  route  across  the  straits,  previously 
determined  on,  was  from  Cape  Beechy  to  within  five 
or  six  miles  of  the  east  shore,  and  then  as  direct  as 
possible  to  Cape  Sumner.  On  reaching  the  tent  on 
the  straits,  about  four  and  one  half  miles  out,  Lock- 
wood  dropped  his  load,  and  went  back  to  look  after 
the  sledges,  then  out  of  sight.  He  found  "Whistler 
sick  and  unable  to  pull,  and  Biederbick  and  Connell 
trying  to  pull  the  load  without  him — not  an  encour- 
aging commencement  of  a  long  journey.  Aided  by 
the  dog-sledge,  all  soon  reached  the  tent  and  camped 
for  the  night.  Lockwood,  Jewell,  and  Frederick  slept 
in  the  wall-tent,  pitched  there  some  weeks  before. 
Lockwood  writes  at  this  point :  **  Finding  it  very  cold, 
I  was  glad  to  get  up  and  out,  leaving  Jewell  to  the  un- 
happy work  of  getting  breakfast.  (Breakfast !  what 
a  misnomer  in  such  cases  !)  I  then  went  to  the  two 
tents  occupied  by  the  others  to  inquire  for  healths. 
Mr.  Henry,  correspondent  of  the  *  Chicago  Times' 
(as  he  called  himself),  the  same  who  had  written  on 
the  side  of  a  large  iceberg,  *  Ho  I  for  Cape  Britannia,' 
said  he  could  go  no  farther,  as  he  had  been  suffering 
dreadfully  all  night  with  rheumatism  ;  or,  if  he  did 
go  farther,  we  would  have  to  haul  him  back,  while 
from  here  he  thought  he  could  manage  to  hobble  by 
himself  to  the  snow-house,  and,  after  resting  there  and 


■'vii 


y  )^ 


4 


I 

:;:i 


146 


FARTIIEST  NORTH. 


%    ( 


again  at  Depot  *  A,'  reach  the  station.  Henry  is  a 
big  fellow,  over  six  feet  in  height,  with  apparently  the 
strength  and  physique  of  Hercules.  It  was  a  bad  omen 
for  the  rest  of  us  when  he  broke  down.  Connell  had 
frozen  his  feet  the  previous  day  quite  badly,  and  only 
discovered  the  extent  of  the  injury  after  getting  into 
camp,  but  thought  he  could  go  on,  or  at  least  was 
determined  to  try.  All  hands  looked  very  forlorn, 
but  generally  were  resolute  and  determined.  Finally, 
Jewell  had  the  tea  and  canned  meat  warmed  suffi- 
ciently, and  we  stuffed  ourselves  with  all  there  was  to 
stuff,  and  prepared  to  follow  the  others  who  had  al- 
ready started.  We  overtook  Fredericks  (the  saddler) 
struggling  along  in  the  snow  with  a  sledge  all  by  him- 
erlf.  Hg  was  a  dwarf  by  the  side  of  the  giant  Henry. 
It  was  necessary  to  do  something,  and  so  I  told  Jewell 
he  must  join  Fredericks,  and  leave  the  Esquimaux  and 
me  to  manage  the  dog-sledge.  I  overtook  the  main 
party  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  camp,  doing  their 
best.  Connell  could  hardly  walk  at  all,  and  it  was 
utterly  impossible  for  him  to  pall.  He  was  very  re- 
luctant to  go  back,  but  there  was  no  alternative  ;  so, 
throwing  off  the  load,  I  took  him  on  the  dog  sledge  as 
far  as  Cape  Beechy,  whence  he  thought  he  cou^d  get 
along  by  himself.  On  returning  I  picked  up  the  load, 
and  proceeded  to  follow  the  trail  of  the  others.  The 
snow  soon  became  worse,  and  the  sledge  so  often  stuck 
that  I  determined  ro  double  up — take  half  the  load  at 
a  time.  The  Esquimaux  dogs  can  pull  a  very  heavy 
load,  and  through  bad  places,  but  the  moment  the 
sledge  comes  to  a  dead  halt  they  sit  on  their  haunches. 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


U7 


turn  complacently  round,  and  wait  till  tlio  sledge  is 
extricated.  If  not  fully  started,  they  will  pull  at 
random,  or  not  at  all.  On  these  occasions  the  hard 
work  comes  upon  the  driver  and  others  with  the 
sledge." 

On  the  7th,  they  joined  the  other  wing  of  the  ex- 
pedition, finding  them  in  camp  some  miles  south- 
west of  the  gap.  The  wind  had  been  blowing  and 
snow  drifting  for  some  hours,  and  everything  indi- 
cated a  storm.  Lockwood  and  Frederick  pitched  tent 
and  went  into  camp,  first  bringing  up  the  rest  of  the 
load. 

While  the  storm  was  still  raging,  they  got  off  with 
half  the  load,  leaving  the  rest  making  preparations 
for  a  move,  and  took  a  course  for  Cape  Sumner,  whoso 
steep,  rocky  face  loomed  up  in  the  distance,  terminat- 
ed by  a  line  of  magnificent  cliffs,  which  extended  un- 
broken, except  by  "  the  Gap,"  as  far  south  as  Capo 
Lupton  of  Polaris  fame.  They  traveled  upon  level 
floes  interrupted  by  ridges  of  hummocky  ice,  over 
which  they  had  to  get  the  sledge  as  best  they  could, 
and  with  frequent  use  of  the  axe.     The  wind  blowing 


stronger,  and  the 


air  being 


obscured  with  drivinir 


snow,  they  could  with  difficulty  pick  their  way.  Trav- 
eling over  the  straits  was  like  navigating  a  ship  in  a 
tortuous  channel.  They  soon  found  themselves  in 
the  midst  of  a  mass  of  rubble-ice  of  the  worst  de- 
scription ;  ^.*ps  and  chasms  between  the  crags  and 
blocks  of  ice,  often  filled  with  loose  snow,  or  entire- 
ly obscured  by  that  flying  through  the  air.  They 
could  barely  see  the  cliffs  on  their  right,  and  could 


^!>        'vm 

• 

in 

^ 

■i 

l-ll 


;/•» 


'•  ; 


;-l 


1  '■ 


m 


148 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Til 


not  recognize  their  position.  The  dogs  became  very 
much  discouraged,  Frederick  also,  and  Lock  wood  him- 
self felt  in  no  very  enviable  frame  of  mind.  After 
many  inelTectual  efforts,  and  unloading  and  reloading 
repeatedly,  they  left  the  load  and  attempted  to  ex- 
plore a  route  to  shore.  Not  succeeding,  they  hunted 
for  some  suitable  snow-drift  in  which  to  burrow,  and 
there  await  better  weather  ;  but  saw  none.  Finally, 
the  storm  letting  up  for  a  moment,  they  found  a 
level  floe,  and,  with  the  use  of  the  axe,  Lockwood  and 
Frederick  got  the  sledge  upon  it. 

On  the  8th,  at  3  a.  m.,  they  arrived  at  Cape  Sum- 
ner, and,  getting  through  the  rubble-ice  near  the 
shore,  gained  the  steep  snow-slope  which  lay  between 
the  foot  of  the  cliffs  and  the  line  of  immense  floe- 
bergs  along  the  shore,  stranded  and  pressed  close  up 
to  the  snow-slope.  Between  the  bergs  and  the  slope, 
the  wind  had  made  great  gaps,  deep  and  tortuous. 
The  only  way  to  get  along  was  either  through  these 
gaps — often  like  pits — or  to  take  the  slope  above  and 
run  the  risk  of  tumbling  down  into  them,  sledge  and 
all,  sometimes  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  There  was 
often  no  alternative  but  the  latter.  Lockwood  ex- 
pected to  find  it  calm  there  by  reason  of  the  pro- 
tection of  the  bluffs,  but,  on  the  contrary,  the  wind 
came  down  from  above  in  gusts  and  whirlwinds,  filling 
the  air  with  eddying  columns  of  snow.  Wien  about 
a  mile  from  the  Polaris  Boat  Camp,  they  encountered 
an  immense  mass  of  snow  entirely  filling  up  the  ra- 
vine from  top  to  bottom.  Leaving  the  sledge,  Lock- 
wood  went  on  to  see  if  he  could  reach  the  Boat  Camp, 


EXTEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOO  ISLAND. 


149 


but  could  liardly  keep  bis  feet  on  account  of  tbo 
wind.  Returning,  lie  and  Frederick  made  a  small  liolo 
in  tbo  side  of  a  large  drift,  and,  pulling  in  everytbing 
tbo  dogs  could  possibly  eat,  prepared  to  **  wcatber  tbo 
storm."  By  0  A.  M.,  supper  bad  been  eaten  in  dark- 
ness, for  tbcy  bad  no  candles,  and  Frederick,  wedged 
close  up  to  bim  in  tbe  frozen  sleeping-bag,  was  snorting 
away  like  a  steam-engine.  Lockwood  soon  fell  asleep 
too,  but  woke  up  to  find  tbe  sleeping-bag  and  bis  foot- 
gear and  clotbes  wet  witb  tbo  moisture  sucb  closo 
quarters  produced.  Everytbing  inside  was  tbawing. 
Soon  after,  masses  of  snow  falling  down  tbrougb  a 
number  of  rents  in  tbe  side  and  roof  of  tbe  excavation, 
bo  began  to  tbink  tbey  would  be  smotbered  alive.  But 
wbile  tbinking  about  it,  be  went  to  sleep  again,  leav- 
ing Frederick  snorting  as  before.  Just  bow  long  tbey 
slept  in  tbat  snow-bank,  tbey  did  not  know,  but  wben 
tbey  did  wake  up  and  try  to  emerge,  tbey  found  tbem- 
selves  completely  snowed  in,  and  only  got  out  by  vig- 
orous use  of  tbeir  knives,  so  bard  and  compact  bad 
tbe  ice  and  snow  become.  Frederick  being  ab^o  to 
understand  only  signs  and  a  very  few  words  cbiefly 
referring  to  food,  tbeir  conversation  was  very  limited. 
Tbey  found  tbe  dogs  and  sledge  almost  buried  in 
snow.  Hastily  barnessing  up,  tbey  reacbed  tbe  Boat 
Camp  on  Newman's  Bay  at  noon.  Here  tbey  again 
went  into  camp  by  digging  into  a  snow-bank  and  cov- 
ering tbe  bole  witb  tbe  tent.  "  Skaffer,"  or  eating, 
being  first  in  order,  tbey  supplied  tbem.«elves  by  tbaw- 
ing tbeir  prepared  roast.  Tben  they  bad  a  smoke — 
tbat  great  solace  of  tbe  traveler  in  every  clime.   Snow- 


.uS, 


it 


m 


1 


'  ^;i 


■  ., 


f  '« 


4 


if 

II 


; 


» 


: 


L 


150 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


houses  and  Bnow-holcs,  they  concluded,  have  many 
objections,  but  they  always  have  the  merit  of  being 
warm.  Feeling  uneasy  about  Briinard  and  his  par- 
ty, imagining  all  manner  of  things  about  them,  at 
9  p.  M.,  Lockwood  left  everything  behind  and  went 
forth  with  dogs  and  sledge  to  hunt  them  up,  and  at 
midnight  met  them  valiantly  struggling  along  toward 
the  Boat  Camp.  They  had  found  shelter  from  the 
storm  behind  a  large,  friendly  floe-berg,  where  the 
tent  could  stand.  On  the  10th,  preceding  them,  ho 
picked  up  the  bags  of  pemmican  he  had  put  off,  and 
returned  to  Boat  Camp,  where  they  came  also  and 
burrowed  in  the  snow.  All  thus  found  themselves 
at  their  first  station.  Jewell,  being  originally  of  the 
party  of  the  dog-sledge,  lodged  and  fed  with  them 
when  together,  he  sleeping  in  a  single  bag,  and  Lock- 
wood  and  Frederick  together.  "It  was,"  Lockwood 
remarks,  "  a  choice  of  evils  which  to  prefer — Frederick 
groaning  like  a  piece  of  machinery,  or  Jewell  always 
getting  the  stockings  and  wraps  mixed  up,  and  invari- 
ably laying  hold  of  the  dry  ones  as  his  own." 

"  Snow-holes,"  he  again  says,  ** having  the  insu- 
perable objection  of  asphyxiation,  we  repaired  the 
tents  and  returned  to  civilization  —  that  is,  went 
really  into  camp.  Whistler  and  Bender  were  found 
completely  done  up  this  morning  both  in  flesh  and 
spirits — all  kinds  of  pains,  shortness  of  breath,  spit- 
ting of  blood,  faintness.  Not  being  enthusiastic  about 
going  farther,  I  deemed  it  best  to  send  them  back, 
and  they  left  at  once  for  the  station." 

They  now  had  several  things  to  look  to  before  go- 


EXTEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


151 


ing  further — to  bring  up  the  rations  sent  across  to 
the  Gap,  also  to  bring  over  those  left  at  the  tent  on 
the  straits. 

At  midniglit,  Bniinard  and  party,  with  three 
Hudson  Bay  sledges,  started  on  this  work,  and  Lock- 
wood  left  two  hours  after,  with  a  dog-sledge  and  Fred- 
erick, for  the  same  purpose.  Taking  advantage  of 
smooth  ice,  interrupted  now  and  then  outside  the  pack 
near  shore,  ho  soon  overhauled  Braiuard,  and  they 
reached  the  Gap  together.  There  they  found  the  boat, 
which  had  been  sent  over  with  so  much  labor,  a  com- 
plete wreck.  They,  however,  placed  it  out  of  reach 
of  further  damage,  as  it  might  yet  become  important 
to  them.  They  then  went  into  camp  by  going  into  a 
snow-burrow  prepared  there  some  weeks  before  when 
the  boat  had  been  brought  over,  and  proceeded  to 
have  a  feast,  which  possessed  at  least  one  merit,  that 
of  being  enough,  for  Lockwood  did  not  deem  it  neces- 
sary to  adhere  strictly  to  sledge  rations  till  they  had 
left  their  base  of  supplies.  Leaving  the  others  to  load 
up  and  return  to  Boat  Camp,  he  and  Frederick  left 
with  the  dog-sledge  for  the  food  put  out  on  the  straits 
en  route.  Part  of  this  they  took  up  and  then  joined 
the  others  at  Boat  Camp,  men  and  dogs  well  spent 
and  tired ;  but  a  g^od  meal,  a  good  smoke,  and  a 
snooze  in  their  bags,  set  them  all  right. 

Their  number  was  now  reduced  to  nine,  two  hav- 
ing been  sent  back  soon  after  leaving  the  snow-house 
(Depot  **B"),  and  two  from  Boat  Camp.  The  Hud- 
son Bay  sledges  were  much  worn,  and  likely  to  become 
useless.    Lockwood  now  determined  to  return  to  the 


:!' 


Hr 


U 


152 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


'n 


H    ; 


main  station  for  new  runners,  leaving  the  men  under 
Brainard  to  bring  ap  the  supplies  still  out,  and  other- 
wise make  ready  for  the  advance.  The  round  trip 
would  be  one  hundred  miles,  and  would  add  much 
to  the  labor  of  the  dogs,  but  there  was  no  help  for  it, 
as  he  c.yuld  take  no  chances  on  the  threshold  of  the 
long  journey  before  them. 

Soon  after  making  this  resolve,  he  and  Frederick 
got  off  with  their  team,  carrying  nothing  but  an  axe 
and  half  a  pound  of  tobacco.  The  dogs  were  in  fine 
condition,  notwithstanding  their  recent  haid  work. 
True,  they  supplemented  their  rations  and  thus 
added  to  their  strength  by  stealing  thirty-five  pounds 
of  bacon!  "It  is  wonderful,''  Lockwood  here  re- 
marks, "what  these  Esquimaux  dogs  can  do.  This 
team.,  which  was  regarded  as  a  scrub  affair — Dr.  Pavy 
having  had  his  pick  of  dog" — ^hauled  ice  all  through 
the  winter,  made  a  tr:p  beyond  Cape  Beechy  in  Feb- 
ruary, another  to  Thank-God-Harbor  and  Newman's 
Bay  in  March,  and  then  hauled  a  load  to  Lincoln 
By  and  four  days  after  started  on  this  present  trip  ; 
yet  now  they  travel  along  as  lively  as  ever — so  lively 
that  the  driver  finds  it  difficult  to  keep  up." 

They  duly  reached  the  station,  and,  of  course, 
Greely  and  all  were  surprised  to  see  them,  probably 
taking  them  for  another  cargo  of  cripples.  After  a 
good  sleep  and  a  feast,  they  were  off  on  their  return 
at  10  p.  M.  of  the  14th.  They  took  on  the  runners,  a 
feed  of  walrus-meat,  a  few  other  trifles,  and  also  a 
heliograph,  the  last  to  open  communication  in  case  of 
delay  or  disr-ster.     Stopping  six  hours  at  the  snow- 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


153 


house  to  rest  and  feed,  they  started  across  the  strait 
with  a  small  load  of  meat,  and,  notwithstanding 
some  rubble-ice  which  delayed  them,  reached  the 
Boat  Camp  at  5.30  p.  m.,  very  tired  and  very  sleepy, 
too,  having  accomplished  this  remarkable  journey  of. 
one  hundred  miles  in  fifty-four  hours.  During  their 
absence,  Brainard  had  brought  in  everything,  and 
all  was  ready  for  the  advance  as  soon  as  they  could 
repair  the  sledges. 

After  repairing  and  rebuilding,  they  had  for  the 
trip  : 

1.  Dog-sledge,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Esqui- 
maux Frederick ;  total  weight,  743  pounds. 

2.  Large  sledge  (the  "Nares"),  drawn  by  Ser- 
geants Brainarc?  and  Ralston  and  Corporal  Saler; 
estimated  total  weight,  651  pounds. 

3.  Hudson  Bay  sledge  ("Hall"),  drawn  by  Ser- 
geant Jewell  and  private  Fredericks  ;  estimated  total 
weight,  300  pounds. 

4.  Hudson  Bay  sledge  ("  Hayes  "),  drawn  by  Ser- 
geant Lynn  and  Corporal  Ellison  ;  estimated  total 
weight,  300  pounds. 

Of  this  weight,  225  pounds  was  of  equipments, 
independent  of  weight  of  sledges,  and  900  pounds,  of 
food  for  men  and  dogs. 

At  10.30  p.  M.,  they  left  the  Boat  Camp  and 
crossed  Newman's  Bay,  to  a  ravine,  or  narrow  valley, 
directly  opposite,  which  the  lieutenant  called  Gorge 
Creek  after  finding  it  was  not  the  route  he  had  taken 
it  for — that  of  Beaumont's  return.  The  others  being 
far  behind,  he  left  the  sledge  and  proceeded  on  alone 


?!i! 


'•'i 


ih\ 


i    .1 


,^:tV 


■n 


I 


Hi 


M 

I'lH! 


li' 


154 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


to  explore.  Passing  through  a  narrow  gap,  tlie  val- 
ley widened  out  ad  belore,  in  some  places  the  exposed 
stones  offering  a  serious  obstacle  to  heavily  laden 
sledges.  Returning,  he  and  Frederick  went  back 
with  the  team  and  assisted  in  bringing  up  the  foot- 
sledges.  Then,  after  an  advance  of  ten  miles  in  eight 
hours,  all  went  into  camp  again.  Leaving  the  camp 
at  10  p.  M.,  and  doubling  up  from  the  start,  they 
made  their  way  up  the  valley,  through  the  gap,  and 
to  iha  head  of  the  valley  beyond.  They  found  the 
exposed  stones  so  annoying  that  Lockwood  regretted 
often  ho  had  not  taken  the  route  round  Cape  Brc- 
voort,  notwithstanding  the  rubble-ice.  Though  Lock- 
wood  felt  conlSdent  he  had  reached  the  divide,  yet, 
throwing  off  the  load,  he  sent  Frederick  with  the  team 
back  to  assist  the  others,  while  he  went  ahead  to  fur- 
ther reconnoitre.  Although  he  ascended  a  high  hill, 
he  could  see  little  encouraging  beyond.  He  returned 
to  the  load  and  continued  down-stream  until  he  met  the 
others  painfully  advancing,  when  all  went  into  camp, 
after  making  an  advance  of  six  miles  in  eight  hours. 

Got  off  again  with  half-load  at  10  p.  m.  Preced- 
ing the  others,  Lockwood  and  Frederick  made  their 
way  over  slightly  undulating  plains,  keeping  as  far  as 
possible  northward  until  they  came  to  a  decided  de- 
pression in  that  direction,  sciietimes  following  blind 
leads,  and  then  returning  and  continuing  on  their 
former  way.  Lockwood  finally  saw  before  him  the 
crest  of  the  bluff  of  a  water-course,  gaining  which  he 
found  to  his  joy  a  stream  running  north,  which  ho 
entered.     Though  filled  with  snow,  it  afforded  good 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


155 


traveling  for  the  dog  team.  Continuing  down  this 
stream,  he  passed  between  two  large  masses  of  rock 
like  a  gateway.  Here  was  a  regular  caiion  as  straight 
as  a  street  and  nearly  level,  whose  sides  were  almost 
perpendicular  and  estremely  picturesque.  Seeing  no 
signs  of  the  sea,  he  resolved  to  camp  here.  To  this 
end,  throwing  off  the  half  load,  he  went  back  for  that 
left  behind,  expecting  to  meet  the  foot-sledges  on  tho 
way.  Disappointed  in  this,  he  returned  to  the  ravine, 
and  at  6  p.m.  he  .and  Frederick  were  into  their  sleep- 
ing-bags, feeling  much  uneasiness  about  their  route, 
for  they  had  already  traveled  a  much  greater  distance 
than  the  English  maps  called  for  as  lying  between 
Kewman's  Bay  and  the  north  coast. 

Although  thj  men  with  the  drag-sledges  had  not 
come  up,  Lockwood  resolved  to  leave  everything  be- 
hind and  go  ahead  down  the  canon  with  the  empty 
sledge  till  assured  that  he  was  en  route  to  the  sea  by 
finding  the  sea  itself.  Carrying  out  this  resolve  at 
10  A.  M.,  the  caiion  soon  widened  into  a  valley,  with 
deep,  soft  snow-bed  or  stones,  and  inclosed  by  lofty 
mountains.     He  crossed  this,  and  came  to  a  gorge 


like  a  railroad-cutting. 


through  which  tho  stream 


ran.  Ascending  an  adjacent  hill,  before  him  lay  what 
seemed  an  extended  plain,  which  he  recognized  as  tho 
sea,  from  a  line  of  floe-bergs  marking  the  coast. 

Just  where  they  were,  he  did  not  know,  nor  did  ho 
find  out  till  their  return.  The  sea  had  been  found, 
so  now  they  were  to  find  and  bring  up  the  men  and 
sledges.  Lockwood  and  Frederick,  with  the  wearied 
team,  rapidly  went  back  and  happily  found  the  ab- 


lilt 


>uf 


ft 


h  > 


!  i 


!), 


! 


II        ! 


il 


156 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


sent  ones,  safely,  if  not  comfortabl}'',  camped  along- 
side their  load. 

All  broke  camp  at  7  p.  m.  and  proceeded  to  bring 
up  such  of  the  impedimenta  as  had  been  left  behind  ; 
after  which  they  made  their  way  with  great  labor 
through  the  canon,  valley,  and  gorge  to  the  sea,  reach- 
ing there,  at  4  A.  m.  of  the  22d,  with  everything  e:  - 
cept  a  seal-skin  mit,  which  got  adrift  and  went  flying 
before  the  wind  over  the  hills  like  a  bird  ;  for  a  terrific 
snow-storm  was  then  raging.  They  found  great  dif- 
ficulty in  making  the  tents  stand,  and,  indeed,  aban- 
doned the  attempt  except  as  to  one,  into  which  they  all 
huddled  to  weather  out  the  storm.  The  cooking  was 
confined  to  making  a  little  tepid  tea.  They  remained 
in  their  bags,  sleeping  at  intervals,  and  even  going 
without  food  and  water  rather  than  venture  out. 

Finally,  on  the  morning  of  the  33d,  the  storm  had 
abated,  and  they  ventured  out,  to  find  that  the  dogs 
had  taken  advantage  of  the  circumstances  to  eat  up 
twenty  pounds  of  bacon  and  twelve  pounds  of  beef, 
although  these  had  been  secured,  as  was  supposed,  at 
the  bottom  of  a  sledge.  They  had  also  eaten  a 
seal-skin  mitten.  After  some  repairs  to  the  sledges, 
which  had  suffered  by  the  ston;y  route  passed  over, 
they  proceeded  on  their  way  along  the  coast,  keeping 
on  the  ice-foot  which  here  ran  along  a  low,  sloping 
shore  backed  by  a  range  of  hills.  At  Drift  Point, 
the  snow  formed  steep  slopes,  extending  from  the 
bluffs  (now  near  the  sea)  to  the  tops  of  the  line  of 
floe-bergs  along  shore.  There,  the  sledge  "Nares" 
breaking  down,  it  was  necessary  to  abandon  it  and 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


157 


increase  the  loads  on  the  other  sledges,  carrying 
along  the  good  parts  of  tlie  "Nares"  to  repair  the 
others  when  needful.  Doubling  up,  they  made 
their  way  along  those  steep  slopes  until  near  Black 
Horn  Cliffs.  Here  the  slopes  became  so  abrupt  that 
they  were  driven  on  to  the  rubble-ice  near  the  shore. 
So  difficult  was  their  way  over  this  with  the  heavily 
loaded  sledges,  that  in  many  places  by  standing  pulls 
only  could  progress  be  made.  Near  these  cliffs  they 
went  into  camp  after  bringing  up  the  half-loads  left 
behind,  having  advanced  five  miles  in  eight  and  a  half 
hours.  Leaving  half  their  stuff,  they  then  made  their 
way  over  the  rubble-ice,  frequently  using  the  axe,  till 
they  came  to  the  end  of  the  cliffs,  when  the  sledges 
went  back  for  the  rest  of  the  stuff,  while  Lock  wood 
looked  for  a  more  practicable  route.  Off  shore,  half 
a  mile  seaward,  he  found  a  fair  route,  following 
which  he  reached  Cape  Stanton.  He  thought  Stan- 
ton Gorge,  where  Beaumont  had  left  forty  rations,  to 
be  near.  These,  however,  he  failed  to  find.  After 
taking  a  short  nap  in  the  lee  of  a  hummock,  he  re- 
turned to  find  Frederick  and  the  dog-sledge.  The 
others  coming  up,  all  went  into  camp  fully  tired 
out,  for,  besides  the  roughness  of  the  ice,  they  had 
encountered  a  stiff  wind.  Two  ptarmigans  were  seen 
near  Cape  Stanton. 

On  the  25th  of  April  Frederick  declined  break- 
fast— evidence  of  something  wrong  with  him.  Lock- 
wood,  therefore,  resolved  to  go  up  to  a  gorge  he  had 
seen  the  previous  day,  and  there  go  into  camp  and  lie 
oyer  a  day.     Frederick  could  hardly  walk,  and  hence 


i       .I;"- 


1 


n 


|3-' 


158 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


■'•■  ■.■:(      1 


::i  ' 


rodo  when  it  was  possible.  Finding  a  snow-slope 
inside  the  hummocks,  they  made  good  progress  and 
reached  **Goi'ge  Rest"  in  one  hour.  In  the  mean 
while  the  sun  came  out,  and  the  air  became  calm  and 
warn;,  affording  a  good  opportunity  for  drying  wet 
clothe^'  and  bags.  Lockwood  gave  a  drink  of  brandy 
to  Frederick,  and  then  displayed  Mrs.  Grccly's  silk 
flag,  as  they  had  now  attained  a  point  higher  than 
any  American  had  before  reached.  In  the  afternoon, 
Jewell  and  Ralston  succeeded  in  finding  Beaumont's 
cache  farther  on,  and,  as  proof  of  their  discovery, 
brought  back  a  can  of  rum  marked  "  Bloodhound," 
the  name  of  his  sledge-.  It  was  about  there  that  his 
first  man  was  sent  back  with  the  scurvy.  Afterward, 
when  all  but  two  had  the  disease,  they  had  to  go  on 
or  die  in  the  traces. 

On  the  26th,  Frederick  was  well,  otherwise  ho 
would  have  been  sent  back.  They  built  a  cache  and 
left  one  day's  ration  for  men  and  dogs  ;  also,  to  lighten 
load,  snow-shoes,  head  and  foot  gear,  blankets,  indeed 
everything  they  could  do  without.  They  reached  Stan- 
ton Gorge,  dropped  load,  and  Frederick  was  sent  back 
W'th  the  team  for  the  rest  of  their  stuff.  The  men 
came  in  without  doubling,  having  also  found  Beau- 
mont's cache  on  a  high  hill.  They  all  agreed  that  such 
unnecessary  labor  was  enough  to  bring  on  the  scurvy. 
They  found  there  fifty-six  pounds  of  pemmican,  ten 
pounds  of  bacon,  and  a  large  box  containing  bread, 
potatoes,  chocolate,  tea,  sugar,  onion-powder,  and 
stearine  used  for  fuel,  all  of  which  were  taken  on  to 
Cape  Bryant.     Beyond  this  point,  to  Cape  Stanton, 


111 


:M 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


159 


their  route  lay  along  the  foot  of  steep  snow-slopes 
beneath  the  cliffs,  with  lines  of  floe-bergs  and  hum- 
mocks outside,  and  was  exceedingly  rough.  Lockwood 
and  Frederick,  after  crossing  Hand  Bay,  passed  the 
men  moving  slowly  and  laboriously.  Their  troubles 
were  increased  by  frequent  upsettings  of  the  sledgr^s 
along  the  slope  and  by  the  friction  of  the  splintered 
bottoms  owing  to  the  runners  cutting  through. 

It  was  not  till  8  p.  m.  that  they  all  reached  Frank- 
field  Bay,  and,  thoroughly  tired  out,  went  into  camp, 
after  an  advance  of  nine  miles  in  thirteen  hours. 

Here  they  cached  one  day's  rations  for  all,  and 
then  traveled  along  the  low  shore  which  skirted  the 
base  of  Mount  Lowe,  and  came  upon  the  snow-covered 
surface  of  Frankficld  Bay,  a  small  and  pretty  harbor 
surrounded  by  steep  mountains.  Beyond  this  bay, 
they  crossed  a  spit  of  land,  going  up  a  steep  slope,  and 
down  another  equally  steep  at  a  run.  There  they 
threw  off  a  half  load  and  went  back  for  the  rest. 
Afterward  all  proceeded  with  half-loads,  Lockwood 
taking  his  post  at  the  traces  and  pulling  with  the 
men.  After  a  while  he  dropped  off  to  help  Frederick, 
while  the  men  went  on  to  Cape  Bryant.  Taking  ad- 
vantage of  an  interval  of  leisure,  he  got  out  the  lamp 
and  made  just  two  pint-cups  of  tea  for  Frederick  and 
himself.  *' Of  all  the  occasions,"  he  says,  "when  a 
draught  of  tea  tasted  particularly  good,  none  like  this 
lingers  in  my  memory.  Though  without  milk  and 
with  very  little  sugar,  it  tasted  like  nectar.  In  fact, 
as  the  gods  never  undertook  any  Arctic  sledge-jour- 
neys, their  nectar  was  not  half  so  delicious." 


::  ^1 


i 


■ . 


160 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


m 


•r  S' 


■■■■  4« 


B: 


On  the  27th,  Lockwood  shot  five  ptarmigans  or 
Arctic  quails.  Sitting  on  a  floe-borg,  they  were  scarce- 
ly distinguishable  from  tlio  srow.  The  traveling  on 
fl  at  day  was  on  the  'ho^  aii  ;  yet  fj  hea^nly  wure 
the  sledges  loc^ued,  unil  m)  much  worn,  that  when, 
after  making  fifteca  mik.;\  in  twelve  hours,  they 
reached  Cape  Bryant  at  8.30  p.  x.,  both  men  and  dogs 
were  nearly  exhausted.  To  add  to  their  joylessness, 
they  had  to  be  very  sparing  of  their  rations.  Cracker- 
dust  was  with  them  the  grand  panacea  for  short  ra- 
tions. This  went  into  every  stew,  was  mixed  with 
their  tea,  and  was  even  taken  alone,  and  found  to  bo 
\QYy  filling.  By  its  aid,  they  persuaded  themselves 
that  the  short  allowance  was  a  hearty  repast. 

On  the  28th,  Brainard  and  others  made  an  unsuc- 
cessful search  for  a  cache  left  there  by  Beaumont,  but 
got  a  good  view  of  Cape  Britannia  from  a  high  cliff. 
Lockwood  and  Jewell  also  saw  it  from  a  height  back 
of  the  camp.  Beaumont  had  seen  Cape  Britannia, 
but  never  reached  it.  He  got  only  thirty  miles  far- 
ther than  Cape  Bryant ;  that  is,  to  the  opposite  side 
of  the  fiord  which  here  appears,  and  which  they  called 
"Beaumont's  Fiord."  While  Frederick  brought  up 
some  stores  left  behind,  Lockwood  busied  himself 
with  many  details  connected  with  his  further  advance 
toward  the  north,  for  now  his  supports  were  to  leave 
him  and  return  to  the  Boat  Camp,  while  Brainard, 
Frederick,  and  himself,  with  the  dog-sledge,  were  to 
proceed  alone. 

Lockwood  now  satisfied  himself  by  a  careful  in- 
spection of  the  sledges  that  the  supporting  party 


EXPEDITIOM  TO  LOCK^V^OOD  ISLAND.  161 

'"3uld  go  1.0  farther,  cspeciullj  as  some  of  tlic  men 
^"ere  fjuffering  with  snow-blindness.  lie  therefore 
broke  up  one  o^  the  sledges,  and  with  it  repaired  tho 
remaining  drag-sledge  and  the  dog-sledge.  Brainard, 
also  suifering  with  snow-blindness,  remained  in  tho 
tent,  while  Lockwood  with  the  others  built  a  cache 
and  deposited  therein  the  Beaumont  stores  and  such 
others  as  they  could  not  take  on.  Food  for  the  retur  i 
party  to  Boat  Camp  having  been  dropped  cii  rot  'e, 
ho  decided  to  take  with  him  twenty-five  days'  rati'  ns. 
Hence  their  advance  must  be  limited  to  the  time  theio 
rations  would  feed  them,  going  northeast  and  r(  'Tn»- 
ing  to  Cape  Bryant. 

He  started,  therefore,  with — 

Men-rations,  weighing 230  pounds. 

Dog-pemmiean,  weighing 300       " 

Equipments,  weighing 176       *' 

Dog-sledge,  weighing 80      " 

Total 780      " 

or  about  98  pounds  to  each  dog. 

The  weather,  though  cold,  causing  some  frost- 
bites, had  been  beautiful  during  their  stay  here.  The 
men  had  done  their  parts  well,  and  had  endured  un- 
complainingly much  hard  work,  hardship,  and  expos- 
ure. The  supporting  party  left  at  4  p.  m.,  after  hearty 
hand-shaking  and  wishing  good  luck  to  Lockwood, 
Brainard,  and  Frederick,  leaving  the  three  lonely  and 
depressed  on  that  desolate  shore. 

And  now,  as  the  returning  party  disappeared  in 


Mil 


^f'lj 


'  n 


11 


in 


i 

iii 


162 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


( 


r  t- 


■  ;?;: 


llf' 


if 

HI  In 


tlio  distance,  the  explorers  turned  toward  Cape  Bri- 
tannia. Although  they  started  with  a  very  heavy  load, 
yet  the  traveling  was  fine,  and,  all  three  pushing, 
they  made  rapid  progress,  having  Cajie  May  directly 
ahead  and  across  the  fiord.  The  dogs  seemed  to  ob- 
ject to  going  over  the  sea,  and  kept  deflecting  con- 
stantly to  the  right,  the  only  difficulty  arising  from 
tlie  deepening  of  the  snow  and  its  becoming  soft. 
When  they  got  stuck,  Brainard  would  pull  at  the 
traces,  while  Lockwood  would  push  at  the  upstand, 
and  Frederick  divide  his  energies  between  helping 
them  and  inducing  the  dogs  to  do  so. 

At  1  A.  M.  on  April  30th,  they  camped  on  the  fiord, 
well  sat'Ped  with  their  advance  of  sixteen  miles  in 
eight  hours  without  once  doubling. 

Moving  off  at  5  p.  m.  with  full  load,  they  had  not 
gone  far  before  they  were  forced  to  throw  off  half  of 
it,  and  soon  with  this  half  they  found  it  difficult  to 
get  along,  for  the  sledge  would  sink  down  to  the  slats 
and  the  men  to  their  knees  through  the  deep,  soft 
snow.  Lockwood  could  fully  appreciate  poor  Brain- 
ard's  efforts  and  labors  in  a  fiord  at  the  southwest, 
when  he  crawled  through  snow  waist-deep,  and  on 
hands  and  knees,  for  two  hundred  yards.  At  9  p.  m. 
they  came  to  hummocks,  pitched  tent,  threw  off  load, 
and,  while  Lockwood  prepared  supper,  the  others  went 
back  with  the  team  to  bring  up  what  they  had  thrown 
off.  They  had  to  adhere  strictly  to  the  allowance,  for 
they  had  rations  for  just  so  many  days.  They  had 
advanced  six  miles  in  seven  hours  and  three  quarters. 

They  started  again  the  next  morning  with  full 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


1C3 


load,  but  soon  had  to  pitch  off  again.  Had  better 
traveling,  on  the  whole,  than  on  the  previous  day, 
though  meeting  with  ranges  of  old  floes  and  hum- 
mocks filled  in  with  snow.  Shortly  after  midnight, 
they  came  abreast  Capo  May,  the  desire  of  Beaumont, 
but  which,  with  his  orew  broken  down  with  scurvy, 
and  with  heavy  sledges  loaded  down  with  all  kinds  of 
equipments,  ho  never  attained.  The  party  pitched 
tent  near  an  immense  floe  extending  as  far  back  as  the 
eye  could  rear^h.  Brainard  a;.  J  Frederick  went  back 
for  the  dismounted  stuff,  while  Lockwood  turned  cook 
again,  the  first  thing  being  to  pulverize  a  lot  of  ice  and 
set  it  on  the  lamp  to  melt.  Cape  Britannia  and  Beau- 
mont Island  were  very  distinctly  seen,  the  latter  from 
refraction  double.  Their  allowance  of  alcohol  was  a 
constant  source  of  trouble.  They  could  not  afford 
meat  for  both  breakfast  and  supper,  hence  their  sup- 
per consisted  of  tea,  cracker-dust,  and  bean-stew. 
Advanced  twelve  miles  in  fourteen  hours, 

Lockwood  and  Brainard  now  took  turns  in  cook- 
ing, Frederick  being  excused.  The  two  former  did 
not  sleep  well,  and,  as  usual,  the  Esquimaux  blew  his 
trumpet  loudly,  but  not  sweetly.  They  left  at  7  p.  m. 
with  full  load,  but  as  usual  threw  off  a  portion,  leaving 
Brainard  with  it.  Toward  midnight  they  rpme  to 
an  open  crack  in  the  ice  ten  feet  wide,  through  which 
sea-water  could  be  seen  below,  and  had  to  follow  it 
several  hundred  yards  before  coming  to  a  crossing. 
Thinking  this  a  favorable  chance  to  get  a  deep-sea 
sounding,  they  threw  off  the  load,  and  Frederick  went 
back  for  Brainard  and  the  balance  of  the  stores,  while 


il 


it] 
If 


ftl 


!i 


'  1 
^1 


« 


( 


1G4 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Lockwood  got  into  a  sleeping-bag  and  read  "King 
Lear  "  until  their  return.  In  sounding,  they  ran  out 
all  the  line  they  had,  then  four  coils  of  seal-thongs, 
then  some  rope,  and  finally  Frederick's  dog-whip, 
and  got  no  bottom  at  eight  hundred  and  twenty  feet. 
They  began  to  haul  up  after  debating  whether  they 
should  not  risk  the  dog-traces,  when,  presto  I  the  rope 
broke,  and  all  below  was  lost.  Leaving  their  treasures 
in  the  deep,  they  moved  on  with  half-load  over  a  low 
lino  of  hummocky  ice  having  the  same  general  direc- 
tion as  the  crack,  namely,  toward  Beaumont's  Island. 
Beyond  was  an  unbroken  field  of  snow  extending  ap- 
parently to  Cape  Britannia.  Ice  being  required  for 
supper,  they  went  into  camp  on  the  hummocks,  going 
back,  however,  for  the  stores  left  behind,  having  ad- 
vanced eight  miles  in  ten  hours. 

After  taking  bearings,  they  broke  camp  at  4  p.  m., 
and,  with  a  full  load,  proceeded  over  the  level  snow- 
field,  broken  here  and  there  only  by  hummocks  trend- 
ing in  a  curve  toward  Cape  Britannia.  Until  mid- 
night the  snow-crust  sustained  the  sledge,  but  after 
that,  failing  to  do  so,  they  had  to  reduce  load.  Wind 
and  snow  coming  on,  they  camped  near  a  small  ice- 
mound,  after  advancing  fourteen  miles  in  fourteen 
hours,  and  again  brought  up  the  stores  left  behind. 

The  next  morning  proved  clear  and  calm,  and  gave 
them  a  full  view  of  the  long-desired  cape,  which  they 
reached  at  8  p.  m.,  pitching  tent  on  the  ice-foot — 
four  miles  in  one  hour  and  a  half.  Lockwood  had 
read  so  much  of  scurvy,  deep  snows,  etc.,  as  associated 
with  sledge- jounieys  in  the  experience  of  the  English 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


1C5 


expedition,  that  he  had  come  to  regard  tlicra  as  insep- 
arable from  sucli  enterprises.  Yet  here  they  were,  at 
a  point  wliich  lioaumont  saw  only  from  afar,  without 
the  first  and  without  serious  difficulty  from  the  others. 
Cape  Britannia  liad  been  the  ultima  Thule  of  Beau- 
mont's hopes,  and  quite  as  far  as  Lieutenant  Creely 
expected  Lockwood  to  reach.  But  he  was  able  to  go 
much  farther,  and  would  do  so.  lie  built  a  cairn,  and 
deposited  a  record  of  their  journey  to  date,  also  rations 
for  five  days  for  use  on  their  return,  the  spare  slcdgo- 
runner,  and  everything  tliey  could  do  without.  Leav- 
ing Frederick  to  see  that  the  dogs  did  not  eat  up  tho 
tent  and  everything  in  it,  Lockwood  and  Brainard 
climbed  the  adjacent  mountain,  two  thousand  and 
fifty  feet  high,  to  view  the  magnificent  j»fospcct  spread 
out  before  them  from  that  point.  "Wo  seemed," 
Lockwood  writes,  "to  be  on  an  island  terminating 
some  miles  to  the  north  in  a  rocky  headland.  To  tho 
northeast,  seemingly  twenty  miles  away,  was  a  dark 
promontory  stretching  out  into  the  Polar  Ocean,  and 
limiting  the  view  in  that  direction.  Intermediate, 
were  several  islands  separated  by  vast,  dreary  fiords, 
stretching  indefinitely  southward.  Extending  half- 
,way  round  the  horizon,  the  eye  rested  on  nothing  but 
the  ice  of  the  I'olar  Sea ;  in-shore,  composed  of  level 
floes,  but  beyond,  of  ridges  and  masses  of  the  rough- 
est kind  of  ice.  The  whole  panorama  was  grand,  but 
dreary  and  desolate  in  the  extreme.  After  erecting  a 
monument,  we  were  glad  to  escape  the  cold  wind  by 
returning." 

While  here,  Lockwood  took  several  astronomical 


i  '!1 


>ii 


1 


iir 


>i 


iti 


I: 


i 


M: 


n 


t.*^»^ 


16G 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


observations.  They  broke  camp  at  7  p.  m.,  and  trav- 
eled northward  over  smooth  ice  free  from  snow,  to 
the  promontory,  wliere  they  came  in  sight  of  the  dis- 
tant headland  northeast,  which  they  had  seen  from 
the  mountain-top.  Hearing  a  low,  moaning  sound, 
and  looking  to  the  north,  they  saw  a  line  of  hum- 
mocks, and  near  it  their  old  acquaintance,  the  tidal 
crack,  stretching  in  one  direction  toward  Beaumont 
Island,  and  in  the  other,  curving  toward  Black  Cape, 
as  Lockwood  named  the  headland  northeast  of  them. 
Repairing  their  sledge,  which  had  given  way,  they 
proceeded  toward  this  headland,  having  fairly  good 
traveling  though  somewhat  obstructed  by  soft  and 
deep  snow,  and  camped  at  midnight  near  a  hummock 
and  not  far  from  the  cracky  from  which  Frederick 
tried,  without  success,  to  get  a  seal.  This  would 
have  relieved  his  mortified  feelings  at  the  loss  of  a 
ptarmigan  he  had  shot  at  the  cape,  and  which  Riten- 
bank  had  stolen.  Took  observations  for  latitude  and 
longitude  before  turning  into  their  sleeping-bags. 
Advanced  eleven  miles  in  five  hours. 

The  observations  were  repeated  next  morning,  and 
they  then  went  on  their  course.  After  going  a  con- 
siderable distance,  they  halted  to  rest  and  to  view 
the  tide-crack,  now  near  them  and  alout  one  hun- 
dred yards  across,  filled  in  here  and  there  with  young 
ice  or  detached  masses.  This  crack  was  incomprehen- 
sible, differing  from  those  seen  in  the  straits,  which 
were  near  shore  and  so  narrow  as  to  attract  little  at- 
tention. Frederi-'k  gave  Lockwood  to  understand  by 
signs  ind  gestures  that  after  a  while  the  ice  outride. 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


1G7 


or  north  of  the  crack,  would  move  off  seaward.  Re- 
suming their  way,  they  soon  after  passed  Blue  Cape, 
and  thence  crossing  a  small  fiord  got  to  Black  Cape, 
the  bold,  rocky  headland  they  had  seen  from  the 
mountain.  Beyond  Black  Cape,  and  in  the  same  gen- 
eral direction,  but  seen  indistinctly,  appeared  a  dark, 
rocky  cape,  which  Lock  wood  called  Distant  Cape, 
because,  seeming  so  near,  it  was  yet  so  far,  as  they 
afterward  found.  At  Black  Cape  were  seen  bear- 
tracks,  also  those  of  the  fox,  hare,  and  lemming,  in 
great  numbers.  The  tide-crack  here  came  near  the 
shore,  and  then  extended  directly  across  to  the  next 
cape.  The  ice  along  shore  indicated  having  sus- 
tained enormous  pressure.  Great  bergs  and  hum- 
mocks, weighing  thousands  of  tons,  had  been  pushed 
upon  the  ice-foot  like  pebbles. 

The  ice-foot  offering  better  traveling,  they  fol- 
lowed that  course,  though  it  took  them  somewhat 
away  from  Distant  Cape.  Leaving  it,  they  crossed 
what  seemed  to  them  a  little  bay,  but  it  took  them 
one  hour  and  a  half  to  reach  the  cape  on  the  farther 
side.  Seeing  a  large  fiord  intervening  between  them 
and  Distant  Cape  which  they  had  wished  to  reach 
before  encamping,  they  gave  up  the  effort  and  pitched 
their  tent.  Soon  after,  Frederick  shot  a  nare,  but 
'^nly  wounding  him,  they  had  to  expend  all  their  re- 
maining strength  in  running  him  down.  But  food 
was  now  everything,  and  they  spared  neither  the  liare 
nor  themselves.  They  called  that  point  Itabbit  Point, 
in  memory  of  the  friend  who  served  them  a  good  turn. 
Advanced  seventeen  miles  in  ten  hours. 


m 

M 


M 


168 


FARTEEST  NORTH. 


:'<•!' 


Having,  on  account  of  a  snow-storm,  failed  to  get 
the  sun  on  the  south  meridian,  Lockwood  waited  un- 
til it  should  come  round  to  the  north  meridian,  as 
this  matter  of  observations  was  important,  and  diffi- 
cult to  attend  to  e7i  route.  In  the  mean  time,  they 
cached  some  rations.  Saw  some  ptarmigans,  but 
failed  to  shoot  them.  Left  near  midnight,  and  hav- 
ing crossed  the  hummocks  thrust  in  against  ail  these 
capes,,  reached  the  level  surface  of  an  immense  bay 
which  they  were  two  and  one  quarter  hours  in  cross- 
ing, after  untold  labor  and  fatigue,  through  deep 
snow,  so  wet  that  they  seemed  to  be  wading  through 
soft  clay.  They  reached  tlie  opposite  shore,  bathed  in 
perspiration,  Lockwood  going  in  advance  to  encour- 
age the  dogs.  Soraetimes  they  went  down  waist-deep. 
The  mass  of  hummocks  came  up  so  near  the  cliffs  as 
to  force  the  travelers  outside.  Still,  Distant  Cape  was 
farther  on,  with  a  fiord  intervening.  At  four  o'clock, 
they  reached  this  long-sought  point,  and  looked  ahead 
to  see  what  lay  beyond.  Away  off  in  the  same  general 
direction  (northeast)  was  seen  another  headland,  sepa- 
rated from  them  by  a  number  of  fiords  and  capes, 
which  lay  on  an  arc  connecting  Distant  Cape  with 
that  in  the  far  distance.  Inclining  to  the  right,  they 
made  their  way  toward  one  of  these  intermediate 
capes.  Sometimes  seeing  it  and  sometimes  not,  they 
finally  reached  it  at  6  A.  m.,  and,  being  unable  to  see 
anything  ahead,  went  into  camp.  Soon  afterward  a 
pyramidal  island  loomed  up  through  the  storm  in  the 
northeast.  They  enjoyed  part  of  their  rabbit  for  sup- 
per, almost  raw,  for  they  had  no  alcohol  to  waste  on 


r 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLxiXD. 


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luxuries,  and  carefully  laid  away  the  other  half  for 
further  indulgence.  But  Ritenbank  saw  that  half 
rabbit  stowed  away,  and  he  too  liked  rabbit,  as  will 
be  seen.  After  supper  Lockwood  made  observations, 
and  of  trials  and  tribulations  this  was  not  the  least. 
Face  chilled,  fingers  frozen,  and  sun  so  low  as  to  re- 
quire him  to  lie  in  the  snow  ;  the  sun  like  a  grease- 
spot  in  the  heavens,  and  refusing  to  be  reflected  ; 
snow-drifts  over  artificial  horizon  cover ;  sextant 
mirrors  becoming  obscure,  vernier  clouded,  tangent- 
screw  too  stiff  to  work ;  then,  when  one  had  nearly 
secured  a  contact,  some  dog  interposing  his  ugly  body 
or  stirring  up  the  snow  ;  such  were  some  of  the  diffi- 
culties to  be  overcome.  Still,  these  observations  must 
be  made,  and  carefully  and  correctly  made,  or  other- 
w^ise  the  chief  value  of  the  expedition  would  be  lost. 
They  secured  double  sets  of  observations  here,  which 
delayed  them,  but  got  off  near  midnight  from  this 
cape,  which  Lockwood  called  Low  Point,  and  made 
good  time  toward  the  dim  headland  at  the  northeast. 
In  two  hours  and  a  half  they  reached  the  cape,  which 
ho  named  Surprise,  because  they  came  upon  it  unex- 
pectedly looming  up  through  the  gloom.  Beyond 
and  to  the  right  was  seen  through  the  storm  a  dome- 
capped  island,  the  inevitable  inlet  intervening.  The 
traveling  proving  good,  they  reached  it  at  four,  and 
found  it  to  be  the  end  of  a  long  lino  of  grand,  high, 
rocky  cliffs,  bearing  far  to  the  south. 

The  ice-foot  here  being  free  from  snow,  the 
dogs  took  the  sledge  along  at  a  trot,  ar  ',  the  ex- 
plorers rode  by  turns — the   first  time  since  leaving 


I 


^1 


I' 


170 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


m 


I ' 


[i. 


Boat  Camp.  The  trend  of  the  coast-line  becoming 
nearly  east,  Lockwood  began  to  think  the  time  had 
come  for  leaving  the  coast  and  striking  off  directly 
toward  the  pole,  as  arranged  for  in  his  orders.  As  this 
was  a  matter  requiring  full  consideration,  he  stopped 
to  get  an  observation,  but,  defeated  in  this  by  the 
drifting  snow,  they  went  into  camp  at  6  A.  m.,  having 
advanced  seventeen  miles  in  less  than  seven  hours. 

After  sleeping,  Lockwood  rose  to  take  observa- 
tions. While  so  doing,  and  hence  out  of  the  tent,  he 
heard  a  noise  in  it,  and  suspected  mischief.  Sure 
enough,  there  was  that  old  thief,  Eitenbank,  coolly 
eating  up  the  remains  of  the  rabbit  they  had  kept  for 
a  second  feast.  A  dash  and  a  blow,  and  the  dog 
scampered  off,  dropping  part  of  the  animal  in  his 
flight.  They  had  reached  the  state  of  not  being  par- 
ticular about  what  they  ate,  so  they  gathered  up  the 
remains  and  ate  them  on  the  spot. 

Resuming  their  journey  at  1  A.  M.,  they  traveled 
under  a  long  line  of  high  cliffy,  with  hills  in  the 
rear.  The  travel  was  excellent,  but  the  weather 
abominable — high  winds,  with  failing  and  drifting 
snow.  After  three  hours  of  progress  in  an  easterly 
course,  a  headland  was  seen  obliquely  to  their  left, 
between  which  and  themselves  lay  a  wide  fiord.  Aft- 
Ci*  an  observation  of  the  sun,  they  struck  directly 
aoro?«  r'll-  fiord  for  the  headland  in  question,  which 
they  fir;  illy  readied  after  repeatedly  losing  themselves 
in  ihi.;  nii.^t  iuA  gloom.  Here  they  stopped  awhile 
f>^  0  '  p  inrnicuT.  and  ,  :ew  the  surroundings.  Found 
i.:;trv  rabbit -tracks,  b  t  saw  none  of  the  animals.     In 


1 


l'  ■'  I'l 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAYD. 


171 


Arctic  traveling,  one  ?ravcs  warm  meat,  but  seldom 
gets  any  but  tbat  which  is  frozen.  Continuing  along 
this  coast  over  a  good  ice-foot,  they  were  jdcascd  to 
see  on  their  left  a  small  island  with  a  high,  narrow 
ledge,  a  few  hundred  yards  long.  This  they  reached 
and  went  to  the  north  side  or  end  of  it.  Mist  and 
snow  shutting  in  tlie  land  farther  on,  and  also  tliat 
already  passed,  they  camped,  having  advanced  twenty- 
two  miles  in  nine  and  a  half  hours. 

Finding  traveling  so  troublesome  in  the  storm,  imd 
much  difficulty  in  getting  observations,  Lockwood  re- 
solved to  remain  there  for  better  weather,  all  sleeping 
as  much  and  eating  as  lit  ,le  as  possible.  Indeed,  Brain- 
ard  agreed  with  Lockwooi^  that,  if  the  easterly  trend  of 
the  coast  should  continue,  they  had  better  spend  their 
time  in  going  directly  nort  i  over  the  sea.  On  the  ilth, 
it  being  still  stormy  and  no  other  land  in  sight,  tliey 
remained  in  their  sleeping-bags  on  the  island,  wliich 
from  its  shape  was  first  called  "  Shoe  Island,"  uit 
afterward  "Mary  Murray."  All  of  them  suf  >ed 
greatly  with  cold  feet  in  the  mean  while  ;  and,  alth  ugh 
Lock  wood's  feet  were  wrapped  in  blankets,  fur^;.  and 
socks,  they  were  like  lumps  of  ice.  To  husbanu  iheir 
few  rations,  they  had  eaten  very  little  of  1  e.  and 
doubtless  to  this  may  be  attributed  their  cold  feet. 
The  dogs  were  ravenous  for  food.  When  feeding-time 
came,  it  was  amid  blows  from  the  men  and  lights 
among  the  dogs  that  the  distribution  was  made.  Old 
Ilowler  was  conspicuous  on  these  occasions.  Thot  ho 
might  secure  all  he  could,  he  bolted  ball  after  Lull  of 
the  frozen  mass,  and  then  would  wander  around,  ut- 


iii 


II 


172 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


V  .i    A 


tering  tlie  most  unearthly  howls  wliilo  the  mass  was 
meltnig  in  his  stomach.  He  was,  indeed,  a  character. 
He  had  an  air  of  utter  weariness  and  dejection,  as  well 
he  might,  for  who  can  be  more  miserable  than  the  de- 
throned monarch,  jeered,  cuffed,  and  condemned  by 
his  late  subjects  ?  One  day  one  of  the  dogs  swallowed 
a  live  lemming,  ind  the  little  animal  went  squealing 
all  the  way  down  to  the  corporation. 

The  weather  clearing  up  a  little  the  next  morning, 
Lockwood  took  sun  observations,  and  soon  after  saw  a 
cape  with  very  high  land  behind  it,  at  the  northeast. 
But  the  storm  setting  in  again,  they  could  not  attempt 
to  cross  the  mouth  of  the  deep  fiord  intervening  be- 
tween them  and  the  capo  until  nearly  two  hours  after 
midnight.  The  traveling  being  good,  and  aided  by  a 
high  wind,  they  made  good  time  across  the  fiord  toward 
the  cape,  alternately  visible  and  invisible,  and  reached 
it  in  tro  hours.  This  cape  proved  to  be  the  extremity 
of  a  line  of  high,  rocky  cliffs,  stretching  toward  the 
southeast.  Here  they  found  the  ice-foot  entirely 
obstructed  by  lines  of  floe-bergs  and  hummocks 
pressed  up  nearly  to  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  and  to  add 
to  their  difficulty,  the  tide-crack  ran  here  close  to  the 
cape.  With  great  labor  they  got  tlie  dogs  and  sledge 
upon  a  hummock,  thence  along  its  surface,  using  the 
axe,  and  finally  lowered  them  down  again,  and,  by  a 
bridge  over  the  crack,  gained  a  level  fioe  half  a  mile 
beyond  the  cape.  There,  finding  a  branch  crack 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  wide,  Frederick  went  forth  to 
peek  a  crossing,  while  Lockwood  and  Brainard  ob- 
tained a  peep  at  the  sun  for  position.    The  fog  rising:, 


ile 

ck 

to 

lob- 


m 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


173 


the  grandest  view  they  had  yet  seen  was  suddenly  dis- 
closed. To  their  right  were  seen  the  liigh  cliffs  con- 
nected with  the  capo  just  passed,  bending  to  the 
southeast  to  form  an  inlet.  Away  beyond  and  across 
this  inlet,  and  east  of  them,  was  the  farther  shore — 
a  line  of  very  high  cliffs,  terminating  in  a  bold  head- 
land northeast  of  their  position,  l^ack  of  the  capo 
and  cliffs,  the  land  became  higher  and  higher,  till,  just 
cast  of  the  travelers,  stood  a  peak  apparently  four  thou- 
sand feet  high.  Between  them  and  the  cliffs  below  the 
peak  was  seen  an  island  of  pyramidal  shape  and  quite 
high.  The  explorers  made  good  time  toward  it,  over 
a  level  floe,  as  some  hummocks  and  tide-*  nuks  at  the 
mouth  of  the  inlet  prevented  them  from  going  direct 
to  the  cape.  Thence,  after  a  short  rest  and  a  relish  of 
pemmican,  they  took  their  way  toward  the  cape,  now 
standing  nearly  north  of  them.  Soon  the  snow  be- 
came so  deep  and  soft  that  the  sledge  often  sank  bo- 
low  the  slats,  the  dogs  to  their  bellies,  and  the  men  to 
their  knees.  Fortunately,  the  load  was  very  light, 
and  yet,  liad  not  the  deep  snow  soon  after  become 
dry  and  feathery,  they  could  not  have  proceeded.  It 
was  then  that  Lockwood  promised  himself  never  to 
undertake  another  sledge- journey,  a  resolve  afterward 
easily  forgotten  when  in  camp  with  a  full  stomach. 
Time,  rest,  plenty  to  eat,  and  a  good  smoke,  some- 
times make  philosopliers,  was  the  reflection  recorded. 
About  noon,  after  changing  their  course  around  an 
easterly  bend  of  the  cliff,  they  came  to  wliat  might  be 
regarded  as  the  northern  extremity  of  tlic  cape,  be- 
yond  which  lay  the    inevitable   fiord.      Here  they 


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■J  If 


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174 


FARTHEST  NORTH 


CI 


camped  on  the  ice-foot,  below  a  mass  of  picturesquely 
colored  rocky  cliffs,  and  essayed,  but  failed,  to  get  obser- 
vations.  Their  advance  was  sixteen  miles  in  ten  hours. 

On  the  14th  of  May,  occurred  a  storm  so  violent 
that  it  seemed  as  if  the  tent  must  be  blown  down. 
Ritcnbank  took  advantage  of  it  to  burrow  under  the 
tent  and  lay  hold  of  a  bag  of  pemmican,  but  a  timely 
blow  on  his  snout  "saved  their  bacon."  After  dis- 
cussion with  Brainard,  Lock  wood  concluded  to  go  no 
farther,  as  their  remaining  rations  would  hardly  suf- 
fice to  enable  them  satisfactorily  to  determine  their 
present  position.  While  waiting  for  the  sun  that  this 
iniqht  be  done,  they  improvised  a  checker-board  from 
the  chopping-board,  and  played  some  games.  After 
a  while,  finding  that  the  cliil's  somewhat  interfered 
with  the  observations,  they  moved  the  tent  farther 
west,  stoppii-L  to  build  a  cairn,  large  and  conspicu- 
ous, and  depofaiting  a  full  record  of  their  journey  and 
a  thermometer.  This  cairn  stood  on  a  little  shelf 
or  terrace  below  the  top  of  the  cliff.  Brainard  also 
cut  **XXX  Bitters"  on  the  highest  rock  of  the  cliff 
he  could  reach,  Lockwood  telling  him  he  only  want- 
ed to  get  a  bottle  for  nothing  on  the  strength  of 
his  advertisement.  They  were  engaged  until  mid- 
night, chiefly  in  taking  observations  and  in  collecting 
specimens  of  rocks  and  vegetation.  Some  snow-birds 
were  seen. 

The  next  morning  the  weather  became  warm, 
beautiful,  and  delightful,  the  sun  bright  and  sky 
clear,  and  there  was  no  wind — surely  a  bit  of  sunshine 
in  a  shady  place. 


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EXTEDITIOX  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISL.VND. 


175 


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Tlicy  took  advantage  of  this  to  bring  out  hand- 
gear,  foot-gear,  bags,  and  rubber  blankets  to  dry, 
everything  having  been  damp  or  wet  for  nearly  a 
week.  Lockwood  and  Brainard  got  but  a  few  short 
naps  after  supper,  for  it  was  necessary  for  one  of  them 
to  be  awake  to  insure  their  getting  up  at  the  right 
time  to  take  *^  double  altitudes,"  etc.  They  secured 
a  complete  set  of  observations,  thirty-six  in  all.  A 
few  hours  later,  Lockwood  and  Brainard  started  to 
make  the  ascent  of  the  cliffs  and  of  the  height  beyond. 
They  gained  a  considerable  elevation,  and  stood  on  a 
little  plateau  overlooking  both  sides  of  the  promon- 
tory, the  sea,  and  a  large  extent  of  mountainous  coun- 
try to  the  south  thickly  covered  with  snow.  Lock- 
wood  unfurled  Mrs.  Greely's  pretty  little  silk  flag  to 
the  breeze,  and  felt  very  proud  that,  on  the  lath  day 
of  May,  1882,  it  waved  in  a  higher  latitude  than  was 
ever  before  reached  by  man.  By  careful  astronomical 
observations  under  peculiaily  favorable  circumstances, 
they  found  themselves  in  latitude  eighty-three 

DEGREES  AND  TWENTY-FOUR  AND  A  HALF  MINUTES 
NORTH,  LONGITUDE  FORTY  DEGliEES  AND  FORTY-SIX 
AND  A  HALF   MINUTES  WEST    01'    GREENWICH,   tllUS 

surpassing  the  English,  who  sent  the  Nares  Expedi- 
tion of  1875-'7G,  costing  upward  of  a  million  dollars, 
for  the  express  purpose  of  reaching  the  north  pole, 
and  which  expedition  sent  its  chief  sledge-party  di- 
rectly north  over  the  ice  for  the  purpose  of  making 
latitude  alone.  The  view  from  their  lofty  station 
was  grand  beyond  description.  At  their  feet,  toward 
the  east,  was  another  of  those  innumerable  tiords, 


f! 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Scisices 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY.  M5S0 

(716)  •7a-4S03 


176 


FARTHEST  NORTU. 


ill 


m 


'I:  I 


a  bald  licadland  forming  its  farther  capo,  bearing 
northeast.  Seemingly  projecting  from  its  foot  was  a 
low  point  of  land,  doubtless  separated  from  another 
by  still  another  fiord.  This  was  as  far  as  Lockwood 
could  see  in  that  direction — probably  fifteen  miles. 
Thence  round  toward  the  north  and  in  the  direction 
of  Cape  Britannia  lay  the  vast  Polar  Sea,  covered 
with  ice  and  desolate  in  the  extreme.  Toward  the 
south  lay  a  vast  panorama  of  snow-capped  mountains, 
BO  overlapping  and  merging  one  into  another  that  it 
was  impossible  to  distinguish  the  topography  of  the 
country.  They  stayed  on  the  top  only  twenty  min- 
utes, and  at  4.50  reached  camp  again,  greatly  to  the 
delight  of  Frederick.  He  had  seemed  a  good  deal 
**  down  at  the  mouth  "  of  late,  which  Brainard  thought 
was  caused  by  their  long  distance  from  home  and  the 
absence  of  dog-food  and  "skaffer."  Hastily  packing 
up  their  small  load,  they  started  on  their  return  at 
5.30  P.  M.  Though  taking  a  more  direct  course  across 
the  first  fiord,  they  met  with  soft  snow,  which  T7a8 
very  tiresome  to  pass  through.  The  weather  now 
commenced  to  cloud  up  again,  threatening  another 
storm.  It  was  very  fortunate  that  they  reached  their 
farthest  just  in  time  to  take  advantage  of  the  thirty 
hours  of  fine  weather.  However,  they  were  now 
homeward  bound,  and  did  not  care  for  storms  or  any- 
thing else,  provided  they  could  "move  on"  nor  did 
they  require  any  policeman  to  help  them  in  that  par- 
ticular. 

And  now  that  Lockwood  is  returning  from  his 
special  expedition  in  safety  and  good  health,  a  few 


EXPEDITION  TO  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND. 


177 


additional  facts  and  a  passing  reflection  on  liis  exploit 
will  not  bo  out  of  place.  Lieutenant  Lockwood'a 
motives  in  undertaking  this  special  expedition,  in 
wliich  he  was  so  successful,  ho  explained  in  these 
words  :  "  My  great  wisli  is  to  accomplish  sometlung 
on  the  north  coast  of  Greenland  which  will  reflect 
credit  on  myself  and  on  the  expedition.  But  there 
are  mauy  ifs  in  the  way — many  visible  contingen- 
cies on  which  success  depends,  as  well  as  many  in- 
visible ones  which  have  never  suggested  themselves. 
Among  the  former,  scurvy  stands  like  a  giant,  and  if 
this  giant  attacks  us,  far  from  accomplishing  anything, 
we  may  not  ourselves  get  back."  As  we  think  of  Lock- 
wood,  at  the  end  of  his  journey,  with  only  two  compan- 
ions, in  that  land  of  utter  desolation,  we  arc  struck  with 
admiration  at  the  courage  and  manly  spirit  by  which 
he  was  inspired.  Biting  cold,  fearful  storms,  gloomy 
darkness,  the  dangers  of  starvation  and  sickness,  all 
combined  to  block  his  icy  pathway,  and  yet  he  perse- 
vered and  accomplished  his  heroic  purpose,  thereby 
winning  a  place,  in  history  of  which  his  countrymen 
may  well,  and  will  be,  proud  to  the  end  of  time. 
Of  all  the  heroic  names  that  have  blossomed  on  the 
charts  of  the  Arctic  seas  during  the  present  century, 
there  is  not  one  that  will  hereafter  be  mentioned  with 
more  pride  and  enthusiasm  than  that  identified  with 
Lockwood  Island,  memorable  as  the  nearest  point  to 
the  north  pole  ever  reached  by  man. 


1' 
11 


fli 


ti  11 


.1 


i   If 


t 


ii 


i  1 


I'-l  \ 


^1 


i 


r 


XII. 

FROM  LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY 
FRANKLIN  BAY. 

When  returning  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  Lock- 
wood  and  his  companions  reached  Shoe  Island  short- 
ly after  midnight.  They  deposited  a  record  in  the 
cairn  there,  and  proceeded  to  the  cape  west  of  the 
island,  where  they  went  into  camp,  after  a  retreat 
of  twenty  miles  in  eight  hours.  Lockwood  suffered 
much  from  his  eyes,  having  evidently  strained  them 
while  endeavoring  to  see  the  sun  during  the  late 
stormy  weather.  The  cold  food,  upon  which  alone 
they  could  depend,  seemed  to  weaken  the  stomachs 
of  all  the  party,  and  yet  they  plodded  on.  At  Storm 
Cape,  they  left  the  grand  line  of  cliffs  behind,  and  took 
a  compass  course  across  the  great  fiord,  amid  a  storm 
as  before  when  they  crossed  that  inlet.  As  usual, 
the  dogs  thought  they  knew  best,  and  Frederick 
thought  he  knew  best,  so  the  compass  received  little 
consideration,  and  they  inclined  too  much  to  the  left, 
being  three  hours  and  twenty  minutes  in  crossing. 
They  stopped  at  a  cairn  and  deposited  a  record.  In 
another  hour  they  reached  Pocket  Bay,  and  in  an- 
other, Dome  Cape,  and  then,  crossing  the  inlet,  went 
into  camp.     "  Skaffer  "  was  soon  ready,  cold  choco- 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.    179 


ll 


3 


late,  and  a  stew  with  lumps  of  ice  floating  round 
in  it,  particularly  unfortunate  after  a  march  which 
was  perhaps  the  most  uncomfortable  of  the  trip.  It 
had  been  blowing  and  snowing  all  day  directly  in 
their  faces — very  severe  on  snow-blind  eyes,  which  it 
was  necessary  in  crossing  the  fiords  to  keep  open  in 
order  to  see  the  way.  In  addition  to  this,  strange  to 
say,  Lockwood  suffered  with  cold  hands.  Generally, 
while  traveling,  they  were  warm  enough,  and  only 
got  cold  when  stopping ;  but  on  that  day  they  were 
aching  with  cold  a  great  part  of  the  time.  The  dogs 
had  eaten  up  his  seal-skin  mits  some  time  before, 
and  the  woolen  ones  gave  little  protection  against  the 
storm,  with  the  mercury  30°  below  zero.  They  found 
the  ice-foot  now  generally  covered  with  snow,  but 
they  retreated  twenty-seven  miles  in  eight  hours  and 
forty  minutes.  Left  camp  shortly  after  5  p.  m.,  and, 
passing  Cape  Surprise,  struck  directly  across  the  fiord 
for  Distant  Cape.  When  opposite  their  old  camp  at 
Low  Point,  a  glacier  was  seen  in  the  interior,  a  green 
^  all  of  ice  lying  at  the  foot  of  what  looked  like  a  low, 
dome-shaped  hill,  but  which  must  have  been  a  mass 
of  ice  covered  with  snow,  as  is  all  the  interior  of  this 
country.  The  travel  over  the  floe  was  quite  good, 
but  when  just  beyond  Distant  Cape,  they  found  them- 
selves in  the  deep  snow  of  the  wide  fiord  to  the  west 
of  it,  a  part  of  the  route  they  had  been  dreading  for 
some  time.  They  finally,  however,  reached  the  far- 
ther side.  The  dogs  must  have  smelled  the  pemmi- 
can  in  cache  there,  for,  during  the  last  two  hundred 
yards,  they  bent  all  their  energies  to  the  work  and 


4 


I  II 


!   ' 


■    : 


ll] 


180 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


»i  ! 


II 


seemed  wild  to  get  ashore.  They  pulled  the  sledge 
through  a  fringe  of  hummocky  ice  at  the  coast  in 
a  way  that  proved  how  they  could  pull  when  they 
set  their  hearts  on  business.  The  weather  during 
the  day  was  variable.  When  they  started,  it  was 
quite  thick,  and  the  wind  blew  strongly  in  their  faces, 
making  the  traveling  very  disagreeable ;  but  toward 
the  latter  part  of  the  march,  the  wind  died  away  and 
the  sun  appeared.  The  traveling  was  better  than 
when  outward  bound,  the  late  storm  having  improved 
it  very  much.  Brainard  did  all  the  cooking,  Lockwood 
chopping  the  ice  and  assisting  in  various  ways.  They 
got  off  a  little  after  six,  and  in  two  hours  were  at 
Black  Cape.  Here  they  stopped  awhile  and  built  a 
cairn,  and  at  Blue  Cape  stopped  again.  The  next 
four  and  a  half  hours  they  pursued  their  monotonous 
course  across  the  floe,  Lockwood  indulging  in  these 
reflections  :  "  What  thoughts  one  has  when  thus  plod- 
ding along !  Homo  and  everything  there,  and  the 
scenes  and  incidents  of  early  youth  I  Home,  again, 
when  this  Arctic  experience  shall  be  a  thing  of  the 
past !  But  it  must  be  confessed,  and  lamentable,  it 
is,  as  well  as  true,  that  the  reminiscences  to  which  my 
thoughts  oftenest  recur  on  those  occasions  are  con- 
nected with  eating — the  favorite  dishes  I  have  en- 
joyed— while  in  dreams  of  the  future,  my  thoughts 
turn  from  other  contemplations  to  the  discussion  of 
a  beefsteak,  and,  equally  absurd,  to  whether  the  stew 
and  tea  iit  our  next  supper  will  be  hot  or  cold." 

They  next  camped  some  miles  from  North  Cape, 
opposite  the  immense  fiord  there,  which  runs  inland 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.     181 

an  intcrminablo  distance  without  visible  land  at  its 
head.  Lockwood  had  intended  going  up  this  fiord  to 
■what  seemed  like  the  opening  of  a  channel  on  the 
south  side  of  Cape  Britannia,  but  the  uncertainty  and 
their  fatigue  finally  induced  him  to  continue  the  way 
they  had  come,  the  weather  being  delightful.  Ri ten- 
bank  went  about  all  day  with  his  head  and  tail  down, 
perhaps  repenting  his  numerous  thefts.  Advanced 
seventeen  miles  in  eight  hours. 

Left  camp  at  6  p.  m.,  and  in  about  three  hours 
reached  North  Cape,  where  they  stopped  some  time 
to  take  a  sub-polar  observation,  making  its  latitude 
82°  51'.  Cape  Britannia  was  reached  without  event, 
and  there  they  stopped  long  enough  to  get  the  rations 
left  in  cache,  and  deposit  a  record  in  the  cairn  ;  then 
continued  on  the  floe  a  half-mile  to  get  out  of  the 
shadow  of  the  mountain.  At  the  cairn  they  got  the 
snow-shoes  left  there,  and  the  spare  sledge-runner. 
They  also  collected  some  specimens  of  the  vegetation 
and  rocks,  and  saw  traces  of  the  musk-ox,  showing 
that  these  animals  wander  even  this  far  north.  They 
saw  also  some  snow-birds.  They  had  thought  that 
when  they  reached  Cape  Britannia  they  would  feel 
near  home ;  but  now  having  reached  it,  the  station 
seemed  as  far  off  as  at  any  point  they  had  left  behind, 
and  they  could  not  rest  until  Cape  Bryant  was  reached. 

The  sun  was  very  bright  and  warm  when  they  left 
camp  at  9.50  p.  m.,  but  a  heavy  fog  hung  like  a  cur- 
tain on  the  horizon,  and  shut  cat  the  land  all  around. 
They  were,  in  fact,  traveling  on  the  Polar  Sea,  out  of 
sight  of  land.     Shortly  after  starting,  Lockwood  put 


i      I 


\ 


ii 


i 


182 


FARinEST  NORTH. 


on  snow-shoes  to  try  them,  and  found  immense  relief 
at  once.  lie  blamed  himself  every  day  for  a  week  for 
not  having  tried  them  during  the  journey  out,  and 
thus  saved  himself  many  hours  of  the  most  fatiguing 
travel  through  deep  snow.  Brainard,  seeing  the  advan- 
tage, put  on  the  other  pair,  and  from  that  time  there 
was  nothing  about  which  they  were  so  enthusiastic  as 
the  snow-shoes.  They  afterward  wore  them  more  or 
less  every  day.  At  6  A.  m.  they  went  into  camp  on 
the  floe.  The  fog  by  this  time  had  disappeared,  and 
everything  was  singularly  bright  and  clear.  Advanced 
sixteen  miles  in  eight  hours,  and  got  off  again  a  little 
after  8  a.  m. 

It  was  a  beautiful  day,  calm  and  clear,  and  the  sun 
was  really  too  warm  for  dogs  and  men.  They  got 
along  very  well,  however,  on  the  snow-shoes,  and  one 
of  the  men  keeping  ahead  to  encourage  the  dogs  and 
make  a  straight  course,  they  finally  reached,  at  the 
place  they  had  crossed  before,  their  old  friend,  the 
tidal  crack,  now  frozen  over.  They  lunched  regularly 
every  day  on  pemmican  and  hard  bread,  and  rested 
whenever  tired.  A  beautiful  parhelion  was  seen,  one 
of  the  most  complete  yet  observed,  in  the  perfection  of 
its  circles  and  the  brightness  of  its  colors.  The  blue, 
yellow,  and  orange  were  very  distinct.  They  went 
into  camp  after  four,  the  weather  cloudy  and  threat- 
ening snow,  having  advanced  sixteen  miles  in  eight 
hours.  They  left  again  at  8. 40  p.  m.  Snow  falling,  and 
no  land  being  in  sight,  they  kept  near  the  right  course 
by  means  of  the  compass.  Their  course  was  north- 
west (magnetic),  the  variation  being  in  the  neighbor- 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.     183 

hood  of  ninety  degrees.  Went  into  camp  near  St. 
George's  Fiord  at  4.40  A.  m.,  suffering  a  good  deal 
from  snow-blindness  afterward.  During  the  march 
were  troubled  very  little,  strange  to  say.  Kations 
were  now  getting  low.  The  snow  was  very  soft, 
and,  owing  to  this  and  the  warm  sun,  the  dogs 
"  complained  "  a  good  deal.  Advanced  sixteen  miles 
in  eight  hours.  Started  off  again  at  8.40  p.  M., 
reached  shore  shortly  after  twelve,  about  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  short  of  Cape  Bryant,  and,  following 
the  coast,  pitched  tent  at  the  old  camping-ground. 
After  visiting  the  cairn  on  tlie  hill,  thoy  determined 
to  make  up  arrears  by  having  a  royal  feast — antici- 
pated for  many  days.  **  How  nice  that  English 
bacon  must  be  I  How  superior  that  English  pem- 
mican  to  the  abominable  lime-juice  pemmican  1 " 
Brainard  made  a  generous  stew  out  of  the  afore- 
said, with  a  liberal  allowance  of  desiccated  pota- 
toes, etc.,  and  they  ** pitched  in  I"  But  oh  I  what 
disappointment  I  Before  eating  a  half-dozen  spoon- 
fuls they  came  to  a  dead  halt,  and  looked  at  each 
other.  Even  Frederick  stopped  and  gazed.  The 
dish  was  absolutely  nauseating.  "Oft  expectation 
fails,  and  most  where  most  it  promises."  Fortunate- 
ly, there  was  left  there  a  tin  of  frozen  musk-ox  meat, 
with  other  stores  rendered  surplus  by  the  supporting 
party  being  able  to  go  no  farther.  After  this  feast  on 
the  English  stores,  they  confined  themselves  to  the 
musk-ox.  The  English  pemmican,  though  a  little 
musty,  when  eaten  cold  was  quite  palatable.  This 
and  the  bacon  were  each  put  up  in  metallic  cases. 


I 


\ 


ft 


r! 


184 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


"! 


The  bacon  they  subsequently  found  to  bo  inclosed  in 
tallow,  and  this  it  was  that  made  their  feast  so  disap- 
pointing. After  this  they  all  went  to  look  for  Lieu- 
tenant Beaumont's  cache,  left  here  when  his  party 
waa  disabled  by  scurvy.  Tlio  search  was  unsuccess- 
ful, although  they  traveled  the  coast  for  two  miles 
and  a  half,  advancing  twelve  miles  in  four  hours. 
Getting  up  at  twelve,  Lockwood  and  Brainard  went 
out  to  the  tide-crack  about  half  a  mile  from  shore, 
and,  by  means  of  a  rope  and  stone,  undertook  to  get 
a  set  of  tidal  observations.  They  kept  up  the  ob- 
servations for  nearly  twelve  hours,  and  then  becom- 
ing satisfied  that  their  arrangements  did  not  register 
the  tide,  owing  io  the  dei)th,  currents,  etc.,  gave  it 
up,  much  disappointed.  All  their  work  went  for 
nothing.  These  observations  made  their  eyes  much 
worse,  and  both  suffered  with  snow-blindness  all  the 
rest  of  the  way. 

While  thus  occupied,  the  dogs  took  advantage  of 
their  absence  to  visit  the  cache  and  eat  up  part  of  a 
sack  of  hard  bread  and  half  a  dozen  shot-gun  car- 
tridges— the  shot  and  the  brass  being  rather  indigesti- 
ble. They  left  camp  after  midnight  and  a  beautiful 
morning  followed,  calm  and  clear,  the  sun  unpleas- 
antly warm  ;  and  no  wonder,  since  Lockwood  was 
wearing  three  heavy  flannel  shirts,  a  chamois-sk:n 
vest,  a  vest  of  two  thicknesses  of  blanket  (double  all 
round),  a  knitted  guernsey  and  canvas  frock,  besides 
two  or  three  pairs  of  drawers,  etc. 

They  tramped  along  on  snow-shoes,  and  a  couple 
of  hours  after  starting,  Brainard,  who  was  on  the 


ob- 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.     185 

hill-sido  to  tlie  left,  discovered,  with  his  one  unbiind- 
apjed  eye,  relics  of  Beaumont — an  old  Enfield  rifle,  a 
polo  shod  with  iron,  a  cross-piece  of  a  sledge,  three  or 
four  articles  of  underwear,  some  cartridges,  sewing- 
threud  and  thimble,  and  the  remains  of  a  shoe  with 
a  wooden  sole  about  an  inch  thick.  Other  articles 
mentioned  by  Lieutenant  Beaumont  in  his  journal 
were  not  to  be  found.  They  may  have  been  carried 
ofl  by  animals  or  buried  in  the  snow  near  by.  The 
articles  found  were  in  a  little  bare  mound  near  the 
ice-foot.  "  Poor  Beaumont  I  how  badly  ho  must  have 
felt  when  he  passed  along  there  with  most  of  his  party 
down  with  scurvy,  dragging  their  heavy  sledge  and 
heavier  equipments  ! "  Farther  on,  Lockwood  shot  a 
ptarmigan  on  top  of  a  largo  floe-berg  thirty  feet  high, 
and,  by  taking  advantage  of  a  snow-drift  and  doing 
some  **  boosting,"  they  secured  the  bird.  They  stopped 
at  cache  No.  3  (near  Frankfield  Bay)  and  took  out  what 
the  supporting  party  had  left  there.  Gave  the  dogs 
the  lime-juice  pemmican  and  ground  beans,  but  it 
was  only  by  seeming  to  favor  first  one  dog  and  then 
another  that  they  were  induced  to  eat  it,  thus  illus- 
trating the  advantage  of  their  "  dog-in-the-manger  " 
spirit.  Went  into  camp  on  the  east  shore  of  Hand 
Bay.  Their  buffalo  sleeping-bag  now  began  to  feel 
too  warm,  but  was  always  delightfully  soft  and  dry. 
Eyes  i»ainful.  Advanced  twelve  miles  in  ten  hours. 
After  crossing  Hand  Bay  they  made  a  short  stoj)  at 
Cape  Stanton.  The  Grinnell  coast  aow  became  very 
distinct,  and  seemed  home-like.  They  could  see  Cape 
Joseph  Henry,  or  what  they  took  for  that  headland. 


il 


!^'L 


i  u ' 


180 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Tho  floes  off  shore,  con8i8tin<^  of  ultcniuto  floes  crossed 
by  ridf];es  of  hummocks,  miuiu  very  luboriuus  travel- 
ing. Ou  reaching  tho  cache  near  Stanton  (Jorge,  tlicy 
got  tho  rations  left  there.  Tho  traveling  continued 
very  diflicult  and  tiresome.  On  reaching  the  Black 
Horn  Cliffs,  they  decided,  as  their  old  tracks  were  en- 
tirely obliterated,  to  follow  along  under  tho  cliffs, 
instead  of  taking  tho  wide  detour  they  had  made  go- 
ing out.  They  got  along  pretty  well  for  a  while,  and 
then  reached  a  mans  of  hummocks  and  rubble-ice. 
There  they  found  a  relic  of  tho  past — a  towel  which 
tho  men  had  used  to  wipe  tho  dishes,  and  had  lost  or 
abandoned.  By  dint  of  hard  work  they  got  through 
this  bad  ice,  crossed  tho  smooth,  level  floe  adjoining, 
and  then  came  to  the  next  patch  of  rubblo-icc.  After 
proceeding  through  this  some  distance,  the  sledge 
needing  relashing,  Lockwood  went  on  alone  with 
tho  axe,  making  a  road  as  ho  went.  Found  tho 
site  of  their  old  camp  on  tho  shore,  but,  as  the 
enow  slope  there  had  become  impassable,  he  kept 
along  the  coast  on  tho  floe  and  finally  found  a  land- 
ing several  miles  to  tho  west.  Sledge  and  all  got  hero 
at  eight  o'clock,  and  they  continued  on  over  the  snow 
slopes,  passing  tho  remains  of  tho  **Narcs"  sledge 
and  reaching  Drift  Point,  where  they  went  into  camp 
alongside  a  big  floe-berg,  with  lots  of  icicles  upon  it 
waiting  for  them,  ha,ing  advanced  twenty-two  and 
a  half  miles  in  ten  hours.  Finding  strong  winds  and 
snow  from  tho  west,  they  delayed  starting  till  almost 
midnight.  The  ice-foot  along  this  low,  sloping  shore 
being  excellent,  they  made  good  time,  in  an  hour 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.   187 

reaching  tlio  place  of  their  first  camp  on  this  coast. 
The  melting  of  the  lloc-borgs  and  the  fall  of  the  snow 
had  so  changed  the  general  aspect,  that  the  place  was 
hardly  recognizable.  At  2  a.  m.  they  came  opposite 
the  break  in  the  clilf  where  tliey  had  entered  on  the 
coast  in  April.  They  soon  made  ont  the  dark  object 
seen  previously  from  this  point  to  be  a  cairn,  and  dis- 
covered a  small  bay  which  they  knew  must  bo  Kopulso 
llarbor.  Crossing  this  bay,  they  reached  the  cairn  at 
three  o'clock.  It  was  a  tremendous  affair,  and  the 
tin  can  inside  was  full  of  papers  by  Beaumont,  Dr. 
Coppinger,  and  others.  As  a  cold  wind  was  blowing, 
Lockwood  made  a  short-hand  copy  of  the  documents 
and  left  the  originals. 

Lockwood's  eyes  filled  with  tears  as  he  read  tho 
last  postscript  of  the  several  which  followed  the  main 
record  of  poor  Beaumont.  Sitting  on  these  bare  rocks 
amid  snow  and  wind,  with  a  desolate  coast-line  on  one 
side,  and  the  wide,  dreary  straits  on  tho  other,  ho 
could  well  appreciate  what  Beaumont's  feelings  must 
have  been  when  he  reached  hero  with  his  party  all 
broken  doT  n  with  scurvy,  and,  after  trying  to  cross 
the  straits  and  failing  on  account  of  open  water,  had 
no  other  recourse  but  to  try  and  reach  Thank-God 
Harbor.     His  last  postscript  reads  thus  : 


n 


"  Repulse  Harbor  Depot,  June  13,  1876.--Threo 
of  us  have  returned  from  my  camp,  half  a  mile  south, 

to  fetch  the  remainder  of  the  provisions.     D has 

failed  altogether  this  morning.    Jones  is  much  worse, 
and  can't  last  more  than  two  or  three  days.     Craig  is 


188 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I 


1^  li-** 


nearly  helpless.  Therefore  wo  can't  hope  to  reach 
Polaris  Bay  without  assistance.  Two  men  can't  do 
it.  So  will  go  as  far  as  we  can  and  live  as  long  as  we 
can.     God  help  us  ! 

(Signed)  "L.  A.  Beaumont." 

lie  and  Gray  were  the  only  ones  left,  and  both  shortly 
discovered  scorbutic  symptoms. 

Chilled  through,  Lockwood  now  continued  along 
the  coast  to  the  west,  following  the  ice-foot  under  a 
grand  line  of  cliffs.  After  a  while,  they  came  to  a 
narrow  break  or  cleft  in  the  cliffs,  the  gateway  of 
a  small  mountain-torrent.  It  was  like  a  winding 
and  dark  alley  in  a  city,  with  vertical  sides  rising 
to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet.  Entering 
it,  they  presently  came  to  an  immense  snow-drift, 
probably  fifty  or  more  feet  high  and  filling  up 
the  gorge  like  a  barricade,  with  another  a  little  be- 
yond. They  returned  to  the  sledge,  thoroughly  satis- 
fied that  Beaumont  never  went  through  that  place. 
About  seven  they  came  to  what  seemed  to  be  the 
**  Gap  Valley  "  of  the  English,  a  wide,  broad  valley, 
extending  due  south  about  three  miles  to  a  ravine. 
They  therefore  turned  off  from  the  coast  and  fol- 
lowed it,  encountering  a  good  deal  of  deep  snow  and 
bare,  stony  spots.  At  11  A.  m.  they  camped  in  the 
ravine  near  its  head,  thoroughly  tired  out.  They 
now  had  only  one  day's  food  left,  and  it  behooved 
them  to  make  Boat  Camp  in  another  march,  even 
though  fifty  miles  off.  Advanced  seventeen  miles  in 
eleven  hours.     The  dogs  for  several  days  had  been  on 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRAXKLIN  BAY.    189 


short  allowance,  and  during  their  sleep  tore  open  the 
bag  of  specimen  rocks  and  stones,  but  fortunately 
did  not  chew  them  up  as  they  had  done  the  cartridges. 
Getting  off  at  3.29  and  crossing  the  table-land, 
they  struck  a  narrow  gorge  running  precipitately 
down  to  Newman's  Bay.  At  its  head  was  a  mountain- 
ous drift  of  snow,  which  they  descended  on  the  run  ; 
then  came  a  number  of  smaller  drifts,  completely 
blocking  up  the  gorge,  oyer  which  they  had  to  lower 
the  sledge  by  hand.  Near  the  bay,  they  discovered  a 
singular  snow-cave  one  hundred  feet  long,  and  occu- 
pying the  entire  bed  of  the  stream,  arched  through  its 
whole  length  by  beautiful  ribs  of  snow,  from  which 
depended  delicate  snow-crystals.  The  entrance  was 
quite  small,  but  inside,  the  roof  was  far  above  their 
heads.  They  lost  sight  of  its  picturesqueness  in  the 
thought  of  its  fitness  for  the  burrow  of  a  sledge- 
party.  This  brought  them  on  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  bay,  with  familiar  landmarks  before  and  around 
them — Cape  Sumner,  Cape  Beechy,  and  far  in  the  dis- 
tance, Distant  Point  and  the  land  near  Franklin  Bay. 
Looking  back  at  the  ravine  from  the  bay,  Lockwood 
felt  sure  no  one  would  ever  take  this  little,  insignifi- 
cant, narrow  gully  for  the  route  of  a  sledge-party,  and 
that  no  one  traveling  this,  or  the  one  they  took  going 
out,  would  ever  take  either  again  in  preference  to  going 
round  Cape  Brevoort.  They  delayed  along  the  shore 
of  the  bay  almost  an  hour,  leisurely  building  a  cairn 
and  viewing  the  scenery,  and  then  going  on,  reached 
the  farther  side  at  eight  o'clock,  making  their  last 
final  retreat  of  ten   miles  in  five  hours  and  a  half. 


Ifli 


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19a 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


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There  was  the  whale-boat,  and  pitched  alongside 
it,  anchored  down  by  stones  and  held  by  ropes,  the 
six-man  tent  of  the  supporting  party.  Inside  were 
Sergeants  Lynn  and  Ralston,  and  Corporal  Ellison, 
fast  asleep.  Lockwood  had  told  Lynn  to  send  back 
to  Conger  three  of  his  party  on  reaching  Boat  Camp. 
The  remaining  three  awaited  his  return.  The  work 
of  pitching  tent  woke  up  the  other  party,  and  soon 
they  heard  the  sound  of  the  Polaris  fog-horn  (picked 
up  near  by),  and  saw  three  heads  projecting  from  the 
tent,  whose  owners  gave  them  a  warm  welcome,  as 
well  they  might,  after  awaiting  their  return  nearly  a 
month  at  this  pli'ce,  the  dreariest  of  all  in  that 
dreary  region.  The  remaining  stores  were  ransacked 
for  a  big  feast,  without  regard  to  the  rations. 
Corned  and  boiled  beef,  canned  potatoes  and  beans, 
butter,  milk,  and  canned  peaches,  made  a  meal  fit  for 
a  king  or  for  gods  that  had  just  experienced  an  Arc- 
tic sledge-journey.  The  monotonous  life  of  these 
men  had  been  varied  only  by  a  visit  from  two  bears, 
and  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Pavy — sent  by  Lieutenant 
Greely  with  some  rations. 

The  news  from  the  station  was  that  Dr.  Pavy  with 
Sergeant  Rice  and  Esquimaux  Jans  had  got  only  as 
far  as  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  when  they  were  stopped  by 
open  water.  Lockwood  had  taken  ii  for  granted  that 
the  doctor  would  attain  Markham's  latitude  and  excel 
his  own.  Lieutenant  Greely  had  been  west  from  Fort 
Conger  on  a  trip  of  twelve  days  in  the  mountains, 
and  had  discovered  a  large  lake  with  a  river  flowing 
out  of  it,  which  had  no  ice  on  its  surface — something 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.    10: 


very  wonderful.  The  vegetation  had  also  shown  a 
much  milder  atmosphere  than  anywhere  else  in  these 
latitudes.  Numerous  Esquimaux  relics  had  been 
found,  and  many  musk-oxen  seen. 

Turning  their  backs  on  the  Boat  Camp,  and  with 
many  loud  blasts  on  the  Polaris  fog-horn,  they 
started  at  11.25  p.  m.  for  Fort  Conger. 

The  snow  along  the  snow-slopes  was  badly  drift- 
ed, but  with  so  many  to  help,  they  got  along  with- 
out much  delay  and  soon  reached  Cape  Sumner. 
They  found  the  rubble-ice  south  of  that  point  worse 
than  before,  and  here  and  there  were  little  pools  of 
water.  The  weather  was  very  thick,  the  wind  blow- 
ing and  snow  falling,  and  the  farther  side  of  the 
straits  completely  hidden,  so  that  they  went  via 
the  Gap,  but  there  had  to  leave  the  shore  and  di- 
rect their  course  as  well  as  possible  by  compass. 
Presently  they  could  see  neither  shore,  and  got  into 
a  mass  of  rubble-ice,  mixed  with  soft  snow-drifts. 
Lynn  and  party  (Ralston  and  Ellison)  had  not  trav- 
eled any  for  so  long  that  they  began  to  get  very 
much  fatigued,  and  could  not  keep  up  with  the 
sledge.  They  had  not  slept  since  the  arrival  at  the 
Boat  Camp,  owing  to  the  excitement  of  the  occasion. 
The  driving  snow  hurt  their  eyes,  and  they  were  a 
very  sorry  party.  However,  they  kept  on,  and  finally 
came  in  sight  of  the  west  coast,  and  some  hours  after- 
ward, finding  good  floes  to  travel  over,  a  little  be- 
fore noon  reached  the** tent  on  the  straits" — about 
five  miles  from  Cape  Beechy — Ellison  and  Ralston 

completely  exhausted. 
9 


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192 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


En  route  again,  they  spread  the  American  flag  on 
a  long  pole  and  carried  it  thus  till  they  reached  the 
station.  At  the  snow-house,  where  they  remained 
some  hours  to  rest  and  get  something  to  eat,  they 
found  Ellis  and  Whistler,  who  had  come  up  from 
Fort  Conger  to  look  out  for  the  party. 

All  found  their  eyes  more  or  less  affected  except- 
ing Frederick.  Ealston's  were  so  bad  that  he  was  sent 
on  in  advance,  led  by  Ellis.  lie  walked  almost  the 
whole  way  with  his  eyes  closed.  Lynn  held  on  to 
the  upstanders  of  the  sledge,  and  thus  found  his 
way. 

On  the  first  day  of  June,  Ralston  and  Lynn  went 
in  advance,  led  by  Ellis  and  Ellison.  They  could  not 
see  at  all,  and,  as  their  guides  carried  the  guns  and 
each  had  his  man  made  fast  by  a  strap,  they  looked 
very  much  like  a  party  of  prisoners.  At  Watercourse 
Bay  they  met  Lieutenant  Greely,  who  had  come  out 
to  meet  them,  and  was  well  satisfied  with  the  result 
of  the  expedition,  and  soon  after  they  reached  Fort 
Conger. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  not  only  received  many 
hearty  congratulations  from  his  companions,  but 
even  the  weather,  as  if  in  sympathy  with  the  gen- 
eral gladness,  became  bright  and  cheerful.  The  im- 
portant business  of  working  out  the  latitude  that 
had  been  attained  was  now  proceeded  with.  Efforts 
were  made  to  verify  the  prismatic  compass  which 
was  serviceable,  but  had  a  limited  range.  Much  of 
the  ground  around  the  station  was  bare  of  snow, 
and,  as  the  temperature  was  rising  rapidly.  Lock- 


LOCKWOOD  ISLAND  TO  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY.    193 

wood  felt  as  if  he  would  like  to  be  off  again  on  a 
wild  tramp.  When  he  said  something  about  certain 
sledge  operations  in  the  future,  Greely  replied,  "If 
you  are  content  to  go,  I  will  give  you  all  the  help  I 
can." 


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XIII. 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


:      I 


To  a  man  of  Lockwood's  character,  the  return  to 
the  station  did  not  mean  that  idleness  was  to  be  the 
order  of  the  day,  and  while  yet  suffering  from  rheu- 
matic pains  in  his  back,  shoulders,  legs,  feet,  and 
joints,  he  began  to  mark  out  a  trip  for  himself 
through  Lady  Franklin  Bay.  In  the  mean  time, 
some  of  the  men  were  off  trying  to  obtain  fresh  meat, 
Frederick  killing  a  hare  and  Jans  a  seal  weighing 
oyer  five  hundred  pounds.  Kislingbury  amused  him- 
self with  a  pet  owl,  which  delighted  him  with  a  pres- 
ent of  eggs.  On  the  9th  of  June,  the  people  at  the 
station  celebrated  the  birthday  of  their  companion 
Long  by  a  good  dinner,  and  on  the  following  day 
Lockwood,  accompanied  by  his  friends  Brainard  and 
Frederick,  started  with  a  dog-train  for  his  proposed 
tramp.  They  made  their  first  halts  at  Basil  Norris 
Bay  and  at  Sun  Bay,  and  traveling  over  a  level  bed 
of  what  had  once  been  a  fiord,  thence  passed  on  to 
Stony  Point,  and  then  to  Miller's  Island,  where  they 
encamped.  Although  they  saw  a  number  of  seals, 
they  succeeded  in  killing  only  a  couple  of  hares  and  a 
brace  of  brants.  Their  next  stopping-place  was  Kep- 
pel's  Head,  the  route  being  very  wet,  in  fact,  almost 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


195 


a  continuous  lake.  Having  nothing  to  wear  but  his 
moccasins,  Lockwood's  feet  were  saturated  three 
minutes  after  starting,  and  became  so  cold  that  ho 
thought  they  would  freeze.  The  pools  were  some- 
times so  deep  as  to  wet  the  load  on  the  sledge.  How- 
ever, the  dogs  made  good  time,  and  they  reached 
Keppel's  Head  at  11  p.  m.  Here  the  traveling  be- 
came much  better,  and  they  were  able  to  avoid  a  good 
many  of  the  pools. 

Passing  Keppel's  Head,  they  kept  a  sharp  lookout 
for  Hillock  Depot,  where  Lieutenant  Archer,  R.  N., 
had  left  a  large  number  of  rations.  They  searched 
for  some  time  before  finding  any  signs,  but  finally 
found  the  cachey  and  near  by  some  pieces  of  United 
States  hard  bread,  and  a  little  bag  of  American  tea. 
This  was  interesting,  as  proving  that  to  have  been  the 
farthest  that  Long  attained,  although  he  claimed  to 
have  reached  the  head  of  the  fiord.  The  unpleasant 
task  then  devolved  on  Lockwood  of  taking  him  down 
a  peg  or  two.  Lieutenant  Archer  was  a  week  reach- 
ing this  place.  Hillock  Depot,  half-way  up  the  fiord, 
which  is  about  sixty  miles  long.  The  scenery  is 
grand.  High  cliffs,  generally  nearly  vertical,  ran 
along  the  shores  everywhere.  Whenever  they  looked 
inland  they  saw  a  lofty  mass  of  snow-covered  mount- 
ains. All  this  was  so  common,  however,  in  all  the 
region,  that  it  was  only  when  new  that  it  was  appre- 
ciated. Lockwood  and  Brainard  had  a  good  laugh 
at  Long's  expense,  and  then  turned  into  the  two-man 
summer  sleeping-bag,  made  of  two  blankets,  trimmed 
off  so  as  to  weigh  no  more  than  necessary,  and  inclosed 


i' 


^  i' 


i 


; 

I. 


#     i 


196 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


in  another  bag  of  light  canvas.  Their  breakfast  con- 
sisted of  corned  beef,  baked  beans,  tea,  hard  bread,  and 
butter — a  very  fine  repast.  Lock  wood  and  Brainard 
both  thought  that  this  kind  of  traveling  did  not  pay 
on  a  ** picnic"  excursion,  but,  as  they  had  started  to 
go  to  the  head  of  the  fiord,  they  did  not  like  to  turn 
back.  The  ice  promised  to  bo  worse  on  their  return, 
and  this,  and  Lockwood's  lame  foot,  and  the  lameness 
of  one  of  the  dogs,  decided  him  to  return.  Leaving 
camp  on  return,  they  soon  reached  Keppel  Head,  and 
afterward  Basil  Norris  Bay,  where  they  camped,  and 
decided  to  remain  a  day  or  two  and  have  a  hunt 
for  musk-oxen.  Mud,  water,  and  **  sludge,"  as  well 
as  Lockwood's  lameness,  proved  a  drawback  to  his 
success;  but  Frederick  returned  from  his  tramp, 
bringing  along  a  quarter  of  a  musk-ox,  having  killed 
two  and  wounded  a  third,  he  said.  They  seemed  to 
have  cost  two  dozen  cartridges,  and  he  had  probably 
stood  off  at  a  distance  and  bombarded  them. 

Brainard  returned  after  him.  He  had  been  up  the 
vale  as  far  as  the  lake,  and  had  seen  a  few  geese  and  a 
rabbit.  He  brought  back  a  "skua"  bird  and  some 
Esquimaux  relics ;  had  seen  several  circles  of  stone, 
marking  the  summer  camps  of  these  people,  and 
picked  up  a  good  many  bones,  etc.  All  had  some- 
thing to  eat,  when  the  two  started  out  with  the  dog- 
team  for  the  musk-oxen  killed  by  Frederick.  Then 
came  on  a  heavy  rain,  lasting  for  several  hours,  while 
the  snow  and  ice  were  fast  disappearing.  This  was 
the  first  rain  they  had  seen  in  the  country. 

During  their  absence  from  the  station,  to  which 


WAITIKO  AND  WATCHING. 


197 


they  returned  with  their  game,  seven  musk-oxen  had 
been  killed  and  four  calves  caught  alive.  The  men 
had  had  an  exciting  time.  The  animals  formed  a 
hollow  square  with  the  calves  inside,  and  did  some 
charging  before  they  were  all  down. 

The  calves  had  been  put  i ;  a  pen  a  short  distance 
from  the  house,  were  very  tame,  and  it  was  supposed 
little  difficulty  would  be  found  in  raising  them.  They 
ate  almost  anything. 

On  the  17th,  Lockwood  expressed  his  feelings  as 
follows  :  "  I  find  myself  oppressed  with  ennui,  caused, 
I  suppose,  by  the  present  monotonous  existence  fol- 
lowing the  activity  of  my  life  since  the  early  spring." 

On  the  22d  of  June,  a  "  turn-stone  "  (a  bird  of  the 
snipe  species)  and  two  or  three  ducks  were  shot.  The 
little  stream  back  of  the  house  was  babbling  along  at 
a  great  rate,  the  snow  fast  disappearing.  Tempera- 
ture 44°,  which  was  a!>out  as  high  as  it  was  likely  to 
be,  the  sun  having  reached  its  greatest  northern  de- 
clination, and  the  temperature  not  having  gone  above 
this  during  the  previous  August. 

On  the  24th,  Lieutenant  Greely  and  a  party  left 
for  Hazen  Lake  and  beyond,  to  visit  the  western  coast 
of  the  country  if  possible.  In  the  mean  time,  the  dogs 
having  attacked  the  young  musk-oxen,  came  near 
killing  one  of  them.  The  dog  King  and  two  others 
were  found  on  top  of  "John  Henry,"  the  smallest 
of  the  calves,  and,  but  for  Frederick  happening  to  see 
them  and  going  to  the  rescue,  "  John  Henry  "  would 
soon  have  surrendered  his  ghost. 

During  a  walk  on  the  28th,  Lockwood  found  North 


=  ''ip: 


11! 


:     i 


$  '• '  111 
111 


198 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Valley  Uiver  quite  full,  and  rushing  along  like  a 
mountain-torrent.  Open  water-pools  were  numerous 
near  the  shore.  Had  a  fine  view  from  Cuirn  Hill,  two 
thousand  feet  high,  seeing  extensive  lanes  of  open 
water  toward  Petermann*s  Fiord.  Weather  delight- 
ful. 

On  the  1st  of  July  they  had  the  second  rain  of  the 
season,  and  Lockwood  was  gloomy  ;  existence  ex- 
tremely monotonous ;  he  was  almost  ashamed  to  con- 
fess how  "blue"  he  felt.  Ducks  and  other  fowl 
brought  in  almost  daily  ;  also  Esquimaux  relies  fre- 
q'ontly  brought  in.  Men  arrived  from  Lieutenant 
(jrreely^s  party  on  Lake  Hazcn  and  reported  all  well 
there.  Ho  had  found  many  interesting  relics,  and 
had  seen  large  droves  of  musk-oxen — between  two 
and  three  hundred — in  Black  Vale.  On  the  4th  the 
men  at  the  station  celebrated  the  day  by  displays  of 
flags,  shooting  and  other  matches,  and  a  base-ball 
game.  They  succeeded  in  getting  the  Lady  Greely 
afloat,  and  Cross  repaired  pipes  found  to  be  out  of 
order.  They  found  that  the  flies  were  blowing  their 
fresh  meat  badly.  Fearing  that  it  might  be  lost,  it 
was  ordered  to  be  served  more  frequently.  Long  and 
Ellis,  who  had  returned  from  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  re- 
ported it  as  open. 

Lieutenant  Greely  and  party  returned  on  the  10th 
from  Lake  Hazcn.  They  had  a  good  view  westward 
for  fifty  miles  from  a  mountain  four  thousand  feet 
high ;  saw  no  sea,  but  many  glaciers.  Found  a  large 
river  entering  the  lake  at  its  southwestern  extremity. 

Lockwood  took  the  launch  down  to  Dutch  Island, 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


199 


giving  all  the  men  an  excursion.  But  for  entertain- 
ments of  this  sort  he  was  afraid  he  should  forget  how 
to  talk.  The  officers  often  went  tlirougli  a  meiil 
without  exchanging  a  word  ;  so  also  through  the  day. 
Ho  could  not  say  who  was  in  fault. 

Loose  ice  was  still  lilling  the  harhor  and  bay — 
paleocrystic  floes  that  had  floated  in. 

Brainard  and  Cross  brought  in  eleven  ducks  killed 
at  Breakwater  Point,  having  to  swim  in  order  to  get 
them. 

"Weather  now  mild,  ice  in  harbor  much  broken  up, 
and  channel  outside  open.  Lieutenant  Grecly  thought 
there  was  every  reason  for  expecting  a  relief-ship 
soon.  It  was  very  desirable  on  many  accounts  that 
she  should  come.  A  false  alarm  of  her  approach 
created  great  excitement.  Some  one  said  he  saw  her 
smoke  in  the  distance. 

The  hunters  brought  in  ducks  or  other  game  al- 
most daily.  A  weasel  was  shot  near  the  house — a 
beautiful  little  animal,  yellow  with  black  tail.  Dead 
wolves  were  sometimes  found — probably  those  poi- 
soned in  the  winter.  Brainard,  Cross,  and  Ellis  re- 
turned from  Beechy,  where  they  killed  three  musk- 
oxen,  two  dozen  gocso,  and  some  ducks. 

Lockwood  occupied  himself  on  his  maps  of  the 
Greenland  coast,  adding  pictures  of  scenery  from 
sketches  taken  en  route. 

Jans,  desiring  to  capture  seals,  tried  to  approach 
them  by  interposing  a  cotton  screen.  But  the  seal 
had  too  much  sense  to  wait  for  him,  and  slij)pcd  off 
the  ice  into  the  water. 


1 


li 


'*  i  ■ 

I      ' 


200 


FARTflEST  NORTH. 


I  1 


tV:    ' 


On  the  31  tit,  Lock  wood  measured  some  ice-floes 
aground  in  tlio  liarbor,  finding  them  to  bo  fourteen 
feet  tliick.  He  had  seen  many  on  his  nortlicrn  trip 
which,  by  Nares's  rule  of  one  seventh  above  water, 
would  have  been  thirty-live  to  forty-five  feet  thick. 
Of  course,  these  were  imlcocrystic  floes,  the  accumu- 
lation of  years. 

On  the  7  th  of  August,  Lock  wood  went  with  Lieu- 
tenant Grcely  and  a  party  in  the  launch  to  Cai^ 
Liebcr,  finding  the  bay  very  free  from  ice.  Left  near 
the  capo  some  provisions  for  use  in  case  of  having  to 
retreat  next  year  in  boats,  a  subject  which,  from  the 
non-arrival  of  the  ship,  was  then  agitated.  They  got 
many  Esquimaux  relics.  The  straits  away  down  as 
far  as  Franklin  Island  and  Cape  Constitution,  as  seen 
from  an  elevation,  were  free  from  ice.  They  could 
see  nothing  to  prevent  the  ship  from  coming.  Re- 
turned in  the  evening,  landing  at  Proteus  Point,  be- 
cause a  large  floe-berg  had  floated  in  during  their  ab- 
sence and  occupied  their  harbor. 

Lieutenant  Greely  did  not  expect  the  ship  before 
the  15th.  Many  eyes  were  daily  fixed  on  the  bold 
profile  of  Capo  Lieber,  from  behind  whose  rocky  face 
she  must  emerge,  if  she  came  at  all. 

On  the  13th,  Lockwood,  with  Brainard,  Lynn, 
Cross,  Ralston,  and  Fredericks,  started  in  the  launch 
on  an  excursion  up  Lady  Franklin  Bay  to  the  head 
of  Archer  Fiord,  having  in  tow  the  boat  Valorous 
with  Rice  and  crew  as  far  as  Musk-ox  Bay.  There 
they  left  Rice  and  his  boat  and  proceeded  up  the 
Archer  Fiord,  somewhat  annoyed  by  scattered  ice  and 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


201 


by  some  largo  borgs  which  they  had  to  go  around. 
Tliey  had  not  gone  far  up  the  liord  before  they  saw, 
on  a  gentle  h1oi)0  of  the  southern  shore,  a  herd  of 
musk-oxen  grazing  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
water.  Though  strategy  was  em])loyed  to  approach 
without  being  seen,  the  herd  took  the  alarm  and 
scampered  over  the  hills  which  terminated  the  slope. 
Lynn,  anticipating  this,  liad  gone  some  way  up  these 
heights,  but  the  animals  by  a  detour  avoided  him  and 
soon  passed  over  the  crest  of  the  heights.  The  slope 
along  there  was  sulficiently  gentle  to  afford  foothold 
to  grass  and  willows,  and  thus  presented  a  landscape 
charming  to  those  who  had  gazed  on  little  other  than 
rocks  and  ice  for  so  many  months.  Seeing  two  other 
oxen  somo  time  after,  near  a  steep  hill  overlooking  a 
rocky  gorge,  Lockwood,  Brainard,  and  Frederick 
went  for  them,  Fredericks  approaching  in  front,  and 
Lockwood  and  Brainard,  by  a  flank  movement,  cut- 
ting off  retreat.  This  resulted  in  the  slaying  of  both 
animals.  But  how  to  get  them  to  the  launch  was  the 
question,  as  they  were  then  a  mile  inland.  Finally, 
cutting  off  the  heads,  they  gave  the  bodies  an  impetus 
down-hill.  They  went  from  steep  to  steep  like  com- 
ets, leaving  clouds  of  dust  behind.  Once  or  twice 
they  lodged  on  stops  or  terraces,  from  which  they 
were  dislodged,  thence  to  renew  their  journey  down- 
ward. Afterward  several  other  musk-oxen  and  some 
ptarmigans  were  shot,  thus  providing  abundant  food 
for  all  hands,  with  a  large  surplus  to  carry  back  to  the 
station. 

As  they  progressed  up  the  fiord,  the  scenery  be- 


i' 


• 


IN 


'* 


l'  I 


'■■\ 


202 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


came  more  and  more  grand  and  interesting.  A  gla- 
cier was  seen  some  distance  inland,  at  the  head  of  a 
stream  bordered  by  yertical  cliffs  curiously  colored 
and  of  fantastic  shapes.  One  pinnacle  was  apparently 
surmounted  by  an  old  dilapidated  castle.  Though 
the  fiord  was  not  wide  at  BuUey's  Lump,  nor  the  cliffs 
very  high,  yet  they  encountered  a  furious  wind,  as 
though  blowing  vertically.  Toward  the  head  of  the 
fiord,  they  saw  numerous  ducks  and  flocks  of  geese  on 
shore,  apparently  overcome  by  the  force  of  the  wind. 
Many  of  these  they  added  to  their  abundant  stores. 
Here,  too,  they  found  Esquimaux  relics,  indicating 
the  abodes  of  men  long  years  ago — circles  of  stones, 
very  old ;  also  pieces  of  drift-wood,  whence  coming 
they  marveled.  Reaching  the  head  of  the  fiord,  where 
the  water  became  shallow,  they  landed,  spread  their 
sleeping-bags  on  the  rocks,  and  made  amci.  Is  for  their 
twenty-five  hours'  want  of  sleep. 

Waking  up,  they  found  that  the  receding  tide 
had  left  them  high  and  dry  by  one  quarter  of  a 
mile.  This  rendered  Lockwood  very  uneasy,  and  in- 
duced him  to  give  up  his  intended  journey  of  half  a 
dozen  miles  into  the  interior.  He  went,  however,  a 
mile  or  so  inland,  and  from  a  height  saw  a  lake,  and 
several  miles  above  it  a  glacier,  apparently  very  large. 
Vast  cliffs,  three  thousand  feet  high,  bordered  the 
valley  or  ravine  he  followed,  and  beyond  these  were 
snow  and  ice  clad  summits  of  vast  elevation.  Yet 
here,  in  this  desolate  region,  were  seen  proofs  of  the 
abode  of  man — circles  of  stones  covered  with  lichens, 
a  proof  of  their  antiquity.     Here,  also,  he  found  the 


li 


WAJTIXG  AND  WATCHING. 


203 


hip-bone  of  some  immense  mammal,  and  afterward 
added  it  to  his  museum.  He  returned  to  the  launch 
near  the  time  of  high  tide,  and  after  lightening,  they 
got  the  launch  into  deep  water,  with  much  labor,  but 
greatly  to  their  relief.  On  their  return  they  visited 
Record  Point,  left  a  short  account  of  their  visit,  and 
copied  that  of  Lieutenant  Archer.  He  had  explored 
this  fiord  in  1876,  occupying  one  month,  but  they  did 
it  in  sixty-nine  hours.  lie  traveled  with  sledges  and 
a  supporting  party — they  with  a  steam-launch,  all 
being  on  board.  Their  coal  getting  low,  they  made 
few  other  stops  en  route  except  to  pick  up  their  meat 
and  game,  returning  direct  to  the  station.  The  re- 
sult of  the  expedition,  as  to  game,  was,  twelve  musk- 
oxen,  three  hares,  twenty-four  geese,  thirty-six  turn- 
stones,  six  knots,  three  terns,  and  twenty  ptarmigans. 
Distance  made,  going  and  returning,  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles.  Long  and  others  killed  numbers  of 
musk-oxen  during  their  absence,  so  that  they  now 
had  on  hand  about  eight  thousand  pounds  of  fresh 
beef.  Another  musk-ox  was  killed,  soon  after  their 
return,  in  full  view  of  the  house,  and  thus  four  hun- 
dred and  thirty  pounds  were  added  to  their  stock. 
This  was  the  eightieth  musk-ox  shot  since  their  ar- 
rival, the  year  before.  They  had  a  good  view  of  the 
bay  and  straits,  both  of  which  seemed  open,  offering 
no  obstacle  whatever  to  the  passage  of  the  ship. 
They  were  all  very  much  disappointed  at  her  non-ap- 
pearance. 

Lieutenant  Greely,  wanting  Howgatc's  Fiord  ex- 
plored and  surveyed,  and  Dr.  Pavy  wishing  to  make 


■  1 

«   i-t 


1  j   K 


i 
i 

i 


H*' 


i 


i! 


i:: 


204 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


an  excursion  from  Cape  Baird,  Lock  wood,  on  the 
21st,  left  in  the  launch,  with  Rice,  Cross,  Lynn,  Fred- 
ericks, Snyder,  and  Israel,  and  with  Dr.  Pavy  and 
Ellison  as  jiassengcrs,  to  land  the  doctor  on  the  south 
shore,  and  thence  proceed  westward  to  Ilowgate's 
Fiord.  Following  a  lead  westward,  they  finally  found 
open  water,  which  enabled  them  to  reach  the  south 
shore  of  the  bay  some  five  miles  above  Cape  Baird, 
where  they  landed  the  doctor  and  Ellison,  with  their 
rations,  etc.  In  crossing  the  open  water,  they  had 
strong  south  winds,  and  heavy  seas  which  boarded  the 
launch  and  washed  her  from  stem  to  stern.  Thou^di 
much  strengthened  against  ice,  when  heavily  laden 
she  sat  too  near  the  water  to  be  a  comfortable  sea-boat. 
Thence  they  proceeded  to  Miller  Island,  where  they 
had  smooth  water,  and  were  enabled  to  cook  their  food 
and  enjoy  an  excellent  meal.  They  found  much  ice 
in  Ilowgate's  Fiord,  yet,  after  trying  to  kill  a  musk- 
ox  seen  on  shore,  made  their  way  to  Ida  Bay,  at  its 
head,  and  proceeded  to  the  north  shore,  for  Israel  to 
lay  out  his  base-line  and  take  angles,  and  Rice  to  take 
photographs  of  prominent  objects.  While  they  were 
so  doing,  the  others  started  in  pursuit  of  a  musk-ox 
some  distance  from  the  shore.  The  animal,  seeing 
them,  went  up  the  valley  at  a  rapid  rate,  leaving  be- 
hind him  so  strong  a  musk  odor  as  to  mark  his  wake 
as  distinctly  by  the  smell  as  that  of  a  steamboat  is 
marked  by  the  eye.  Lockwood  abandoned  the  chase 
for  other  duties,  but  the  men  kept  on,  and  afterward 
brought  in  the  animal's  carcass.  These  having  re- 
turned, and  Israel  and  Rice  having  finished  their 


!•    Ill 
i     •      i 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


205 


work,  all  proceeded  toward  a  very  high  and  con- 
spicuous promontory,  marking  the  entrance  to  the 
bay,  which  Lieutenant  Greely  wished  Lockwood  to 
ascend,  and  afterward  go  up  the  northern  arm  of 
the  fiord ;  but  they  were  unable  to  do  either,  hav- 
ing been  brought  to  a  full  stop  in  the  narrow  channel 
by  an  immense  floe  of  old  ice.  They  therefore  re- 
turned out  of  this  cul-de-sac  to  the  south  shore, 
where  Israel  wanted  to  take  other  angles.  Here  they 
found  traces  of  Esquimaux  habitations — meat  caches, 
and  various  bone  implements,  all  very  old.  Thence, 
via  Miller's  Cape,  they  made  their  way  to  Stony 
Cape,  not,  however,  without  great  difficulty  because 
of  moving  ice,  which  sometimes  forced  them  too  close 
to  the  island,  and  compelled  them  to  make  detours. 
The  weather  threatening,  they  did  not  stop  to  take 
other  angles,  but  crossed  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  near 
the  Bellows,  and  cast  anchor ;  and,  while  the  others 
slept,  Lockwood  walked  up  the  Bellows  in  quest  of 
game,  but  saw  none. 

The  vegetation  was  just  sufficient  to  remind  him 
of  the  glorious  trees  and  grasses  of  another  zone  far, 
far  away.  Still,  with  all  its  desolation,  Lockwood 
thought  it  a  very  picturesque  region,  and  that  per- 
haps the  moon,  to  one  on  its  surface,  presents  a  simi- 
lar aspect.  They  left  for  the  station  on  the  25th, 
encountering  much  ice  all  the  way.  Off  Cape  Clear 
it  whirled  about  in  such  a  manner  as  to  threaten  to 
crush  the  launch.  At  one  time  a  large  piece  of  ice — 
larger  than  the  launch  itself — was  caught  between  the 
moving  pack  and  the  grounded  ice  and  thrown  up 


I 


i^p 


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1. 

■ ,  }■ 

4 

'       I-          ■ 

1  - 

■  *  1 

'i 

i 


.rf 


206 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


into  the  air  fifteen  feet.  Finally,  they  reached  the 
station,  sadly  disappointed  not  to  see  the  masts  of  tl^e 
hoped-for  ship.  They  could  not  divine  the  reason  for 
her  non-appearance.  Dr.  Pavy  thought  that  it  never 
started,  for  want  of  an  appropriation.  Lieutenant 
Greely  thought  otherwise.  It  looked  then  as  though 
they  would  have  to  retreat  in  boats  during  the  next 
summer,  and  might  fail  to  meet  the  ship  in  the  chan- 
nel ;  or,  on  reaching  Littleton  Island,  find  she  had 
not  been  there,  and  then  undoubtedly  all  of  them 
would  perish. 

A  fine  salmon-trout  of  three  pormds  and  three 
quarters  was  caught  in  a  net  about  this  time,  and, 
while  Eice  tried  to  obtain  more,  Brainard  went  to 
Depot  "B"  on  a  hunt  for  musk-oxen  and  other 
game. 

On  the  26th,  Lockwood  went  across  Lady  Franklin 
Bay  in  the  launch  after  Dr.  Pavy.  Saw  many  seals, 
but  failed  to  secure  any.  Found  the  doctor  and  Elli- 
son awaiting  them,  forlorn  enough.  They  had  reached 
Carl  Ritter  Bay,  seen  musk-oxen,  and  discovered  some 
lakes.  Lockwood  left  more  stores  over  the  bay,  and 
returned  through  much  ice.  It  was  pleasant  to  see 
how  readily  the  launch  cut  through  the  young  ice 
then  forming  in  the  midst  of  falling  snow. 

On  the  28th,  Lieutenant  Greely,  desiring  some 
further  exploration  up  Ella  Bay,  and  inland  from  its 
head,  Lockwood  and  a  select  party  made  several  at- 
tempts in  the  launch  to  accomplish  it ;  but  the  young 
ice  was  forming  so  rapidly,  there  was  so  much  pack- 
ice,  and  the  snow  was  obscuring  the  atmosphere  so 


Wu' 


so 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


207 


badly,  that  Lieutenant  Greely,  after  some  hesitation, 
decided  they  had  better  not  go,  and,  instead,  request- 
ed them  to  take  the  long-boat  Valorous  to  Cape  Baird 
and  leave  her  there,  and  then  lay  up  the  steam-launch 
for  the  winter. 

This  they  attempted  to  do,  but,  on  reaching 
Dutch  Island,  had  to  give  it  up,  as  the  entire  harbor, 
bay,  and  straits  were  full  of  drifting  ice,  many  of  the 
floes  standing  five  feet  out  of  water.  The  launch 
having  been  left  at  anchor  near  the  island,  the  next 
morning  Lieutenant  Greely  ordered  all  hands  down 
to  the  island  to  rescue  her  from  impending  peril. 
They  found  her  very  much  careened  and  half  full  of 
water.  She  had  been  anchored  in  shoal  water,  and, 
heeling  over  at  ebb-tide,  had  filled  at  the  next  flood. 
Fortunately,  no  harm  was  done  to  the  boat,  which 
might  yet  prove  to  bo  their  salvation,  and  should  bo 
got  into  safe  winter  quarters,  as  that  season  was  evi- 
dently already  setting  in.  It  was  after  this  boat 
excitement  that  Lockwood  indulged  in  these  reflec- 
tions :  "  I  find  myself  constantly  reading  over  old 
letters  brought  with  me  and  received  at  St.  John's, 
though  read  before  again  and  again.  The  effect  is 
depressing,  bringing  too  strongly  into  view  home  and 
the  dear  ones  there.  I  am  oppressed  with  ennui  and 
low  spirits,  and  can't  shake  off  this  feeling,  partly  in- 
duced by  the  cruel  disappointment  of  no  ship." 

Subsequently  he  wrote,  "Have  been  reading  of 
Kane  and  his  travels.  He  is  my  beau  ideal  of  an 
Arctic  traveler.  How  pitiful  that  so  bold  a  spirit 
was  incased  in  so  feeble  a  frame !    Why  is  Nature 


'P 


i|l 


1 1' 


'  I- 


i  4 

f 


i 


208 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


P: 


inconsistent  ?  In  the  Arctic  his  health  seems  to  have 
been  fair.  lie  of  all  his  advance  party  escaped  the 
scuryy.  It  was  his  spirit,  doubtless,  that  kept  him 
up.  Hayes  does  not  compare  with  him.  Though 
beautifully  written,  there  is  an  air  of  exaggeration 
about  Hayes*  book,  which  destroys  its  interest.  Doc- 
tor Pavy,  who  has  hitherto  been  the  advocate  of 
Hayes,  since  his  return  from  Carl  Ritter  Bay  seems 
to  have  changed  his  mind  about  him,  and  now  agrees 
with  Greely  and  me  that  Hayes  never  reached  Cape 
Lieber.  To  have  done  so,  he  must  have  performed  in 
part  of  his  journey  ninety-six  miles  in  fourteen  hours 
— an  impossibility. 

"  The  life  we  are  now  leading  is  somewhat  similar 
to  that  of  a  prisoner  in  the  Bastile  :  no  amusements, 
no  recreations,  no  event  to  break  the  monotony  or 
dispel  ennui.  I  take  a  long  walk  every  day  along 
shore  to  North  Valley  with  that  view,  study  French 
a  little,  or  do  some  tailoring,  now  doubly  necessary, 
as  our  supply  of  clothing  is  getting  low.  Our  stock 
of  reading  matter,  unfortunately,  is  limited  except 
in  Arctic  books.  One  must  live  up  here  within  him- 
self, and  is  unfortunate  if  dependent  on  others  for 
happiness.  The  others  are  as  moody  as  I  am — Greely 
sometimes,  Kislingbury  always,  and  as  to  the  doctor, 
to  say  he  is  not  congenial  is  to  put  it  in  a  very  mild  way 
indeed.  But  why  not  study  ?  Well,  the  atmosphere 
is  not  conducive  to  it.  I  must  go  on  another  sledge- 
journey  to  dispel  this  gloom.  Lieutenant  Greely  was 
thinking  of  sending  me  to  Lake  Hazen  to  continue 
his  explorations,  but  thinks  the  snow  too  deep.     I 


WAITING  AND  WATCHINO. 


209 


will  make  a  trip  to  the  Bellows,  and  follow  up  the 
caiion  at  its  head. 

**  The  hilarity  in  the  other  room  is  in  marked  con- 
trast to  the  gloom  in  this.  For  several  days  the  skat- 
ing on  the  young  ice  of  the  harbor,  now  three  inches 
thick,  has  afforded  pleasure  to  the  men.  Israel  broke 
in  some  distance  from  shore,  and,  being  unable  to 
get  out  by  himself,  would  have  perished  but  for  the 
aid  of  others  who  saw  him  after  he  had  been  in  the 
cold  water  fifteen  minutes.  Biederbick  is  constantly 
chaffed  by  the  men  for  his  persistent  gunning  expedi- 
tions, from  which  he  always  returns  empty-handed. 
He  takes  everything  seriously,  and  hence  resents  with 
warmth  any  insinuations  against  Germany,  particu- 
larly if  his  own  little  principality  of  Waldeck  be 
assailed.  Biederbick  tried  to  poison  some  foxes,  and 
boasted  of  his  plans.  A  fox  having  been  caught  by 
some  one  else  and  killed,  Ilenry  placed  the  body  near 
Biederbick's  poison,  first  placing  within  its  mouth  a 
paper  stating  (as  though  written  by  the  fox)  how  and 
where  he  met  his  death.  Soon  after  Biederbick  in- 
spected his  poison,  and  finding  the  fox,  brought  him 
home  in  triumph.  Henry  gravely  declared  the  fox  had 
not  been  poisoned,  much  to  Biederbick's  amazement. 
They  proceeded  to  examine  the  fox,  and  Ilenry  pulled 
from  its  throat  the  certificate  that  had  been  placed 
there.  The  men  around  laughed  at  Biederbick's  ex- 
pense, and  he  wilted." 

The  foregoing  allusion  to  Dr.  Kane  can  not  but  be 
read  with  special  interest,  as  it  gives  one  an  insight 
into  the  noble  character  of  Lock  wood,  who  had  the 


I, 


p 


'1        ' 


•■  it 


n\ 


H 


li 


'  II 


210 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


,1 


I'll 


rv! 


heart  to  appreciate  a  man  like  the  discoverer  of  Grin- 
nell  Land.  Both,  indeed,  were  men  of  rare  and  ex- 
alted qualities,  whose  memories  will  always  be  treas- 
ured with  respect  and  affection  by  the  whole  American 
people. 

An  effort  was  made  under  Lieutenant  Kislingbury 
to  raise,  from  calves  caught,  a  herd  of  tame  musk- 
oxen.  They  became  very  docile  and  tractable,  even 
to  the  extent  of  hauling  in  teams.  The  chief  diffi- 
culty was  to  keep  the  dogs  from  them.  One  of  these 
calves  was  seriously  wounded  by  them,  and  was  there- 
fore killed.  It  was  rumored  that  its  meat  would  be 
served  for  dinner,  and  some  of  the  men,  to  carry  out 
the  joke,  hung  the  quarters  on  the  meat-rack  near 
the  house.  When  other  meat  was  served  for  dinner, 
Fredericks,  who  had  cared  for  the  calf  and  named  it 
John  Henry,  ate  nothing — very  proper  conduct  for  a 
man  of  feeling  and  a  hater  of  jokes. 

Lockwood  frequently  went  to  the  observatory  with 
Israel  to  get  some  insight  into  the  workings  of  the 
magnetic  instruments.  On  "  term-day,"  the  instru- 
ments were  read  every  five  minutes  during  the  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  for  one  hour  every  twenty  seconds. 
*'  Poets  write  of  the  constancy  of  the  magnetic  needle," 
said  Lockword,  "while  in  fact  it  is  the  most  incon- 
stant thing  known.  Not  only  does  it  vary  yearly,  but 
monthly,  daily,  hourly,  yea,  every  minute  and  second. 
Here  the  magnetic  disturbances  are  very  pronounced, 
and  at  times  the  magnetic  needle  is  apparently  almost 
beside  itself.  The  aurora,  too,  has  frequently  a  very 
noticeable  effect  upon  it.' 


» 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


211 


It  was  now  becoming  a  matter  for  discussion  that, 
should  they  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  have  to  spend  a 
third  winter  in  this  region,  they  would  have  to  live 
on  salt  meat  and  hard  bread.  Dr.  Pavy  said  they 
were  already  getting  short  of  many  articles  of  food, 
and  of  some  they  were  entirely  out — short  of  sugar 
and  also  of  candles  and  foot-gear,  of  the  latter,  only 
a  few  pairs  of  cork-soled  boots,  unfitted  for  use  in 
these  parts,  remaining.  Lockwood  felt  that  he  would 
rather  take  any  risks  in  boats  than  stay  there  another 
winter. 

The  weather,  which  had  been  variable,  having 
settled  calm  and  clear,  Lockwood  started  on  his  pro- 
posed sledge  trip  up  the  "  Bellows  "  with  Jewell,  the 
Esquimaux  Frederick,  and  an  eight-dog  team.  Hav- 
ing young  ice  most  of  the  way  and  no  load,  they  made 
rapid  progress  to  the  tent  at  Basil  Norris  Bay.  The 
dogs  moved  at  a  gallop,  giving  to  all  the  rare  oppor- 
tunity of  a  ride.  Here  they  found  sleeping-bags  and 
provisions.  The  next  morning  they  reached  Black 
Rock  Vale  and  followed  the  windings  of  its  stream- 
bed  until  they  came  to  Lake  Heintzelman,  a  beautiful 
body  of  water,  or  rather  ice,  perfectly  smooth  and 
free  from  snow,  filling  the  whole  valley,  some  three 
miles  wide,  to  towering  cliffs,  and  extending  about 
five  miles.  So  smooth  was  the  surface  that  the  dogs 
could  have  pulled  a  ton.  Feeling  rather  chilly,  they 
all  held  on  to  the  upright  of  the  sledge  behind,  and 
were  dragged  along  on  the  soles  of  their  shoes. 
Reaching  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  finding  the  way  so 
rough  as  to  endanger  the  sledge-runners,  they  deemed 


I  8  ' 

if 

m  \ 


h 


mmmm:MmmmttiMiiti>>^ 


212 


FARTHEST  NORTU. 


it  best  to  go  into  camp  and  reconnoitre  before  pro- 
ceeding farther.  While  Lockwood  and  Jewell  got 
supper,  Frederick  went  on  a  hunt  for  musk-oxen. 
The  former  afterward  followed  with  the  team  to  bring 
in  the  game  which  ho  had  killed,  first  skinning  and 
cutting  it  up,  not  an  easy  job,  as  they  had  only  a  very 
dull  hatchet  and  equally  dull  case-knives.  They  final- 
ly succeeded,  however,  after  much  labor,  and  returned 
to  camp  at  a  late  hour.  The  ox  killed  was  the  only 
one  seen,  although  it  was  there — three  miles  above 
the  lake — that  a  hundred  had  been  formerly  seen. 
The  following  morning  being  chilly  and  the  sky  over- 
cast, they  returned  to  the  tent  at  Basil  Norris  Bay, 
the  dogs  carrying  the  men,  as  well  as  nearly  four  hun- 
dred pounds  of  meat,  over  the  smooth  lake  at  a  rapid 
rate. 

While  crossing  they  heard  an  unusual  noise,  like 
distant  thunder,  which  at  first  they  were  unable  to 
account  for,  but  finally  concluded  was  due  to  the 
cracking  of  the  ice,  arising  probably  from  changes 
of  temperature.  The  whole  expanse  of  ice  was  marked 
by  cracks  extending  in  every  direction,  not,  however, 
coming  to  the  surface,  but  visible  below. 

In  returning  to  the  station,  they  avoided  some 
rough  places  by  hugging  the  south  shore  of  the  har- 
bor, a  rumbling  noise  of  moving  and  crushing  ice  be- 
ing heard  in  the  direction  of  Dutch  Island.  On  reach- 
ing the  station,  they  found  that  a  large  bear  had  visited 
the  house,  dragging  off  the  skeleton  of  a  musk-ox 
which  Dr.  Pavy  had  hung  out  to  dry  as  a  specimen. 
Tracks  of  another  bear  were  afterward  seen  near  the 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


213 


^   J 


house.  At  Lieutenant  Grcely's  request,  Lock  wood 
with  others  followed  these  tracks,  came  in  sight  of 
the  animal,  and  sau  him  make  liis  way  toward  the 
middle  of  the  straits  through  leads  of  open  water  and 
over  hills  of  ice  with  seeming  ease.  Of  course,  they 
failed  to  add  bear-meat  to  their  well-stocked  larder. 

After  enjoying  a  hot  bath,  which  Lockwood  com- 
mended as  a  grand  luxury,  he  penned  the  following 
from  his  corner  in  the  station-house  : 

**  The  men  have  added  a  bagatelle-board  to  their 
other  sources  of  amusement,  and  sometimes  have 
bagatelle  tournaments.  Lieutenant  Grecly  and  I  often 
play  chess,  and  sometimes  I  take  a  game  of  checkers 
with  the  Esquimaux.  These,  by-the-way,  seem  much 
better  reconciled  than  they  were  last  winter.  Prob- 
ably have  come  to  understand  us  better,  and  we  them. 

**  Much  of  my  time  has  been  occupied  in  making 
maps  of  the  several  launch  trips  and  in  writing  out 
stenographic  notes.  Still,  the  monotony  here  is  dread- 
ful, and  tells  on  all.  It  certainly  does  on  me.  Dr. 
Pavy  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  spend  much  of  their 
time  in  the  other  room,  and,  when  in  here  and  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  absent,  are  engaged  in  the  most  gloomy 
prognostications  as  to  the  future,  and  in  adverse  criti- 
cisms on  the  conduct  of  the  expedition.  It  is  really 
dreadful,  anc'  I  sometimes  think  the  life  of  an  exile 
in  Siberia  preferable  to  this.  The  absence  of  light 
without  keeps  us  within-doors,  and  the  want  of  exer- 
cise and  fresh  air  promotes  restlessness.  Our  supply 
of  books  comprises  only  novels  and  Arctic  literature. 
A  few  really  solid  books  of  history,  biography,  essays, 


i : 


I 


.    I 


214 


FAnTHEST  NOIiTH. 


y," 


■J' 
I » 

( • 

i. 

M 
!i'/if  t 


etc.,  arc  much  to  be  desired,  thon^^h,  under  the  cir- 
cumstances, I  suppose  it  would  be  difficult  to  concen- 
trate one's  mind  on  them. 

"  Our  experiment  witli  calves  had  to  be  given  up. 
All  died  but  one.  Long  took  that  to  Dutch  Island, 
but  it  would  not  stay.  Like  the  human  animal,  the 
poor  thing  wanted  sympathy  and  something  to  love, 
and  followed  him  all  the  way  back,  notwithstanding 
all  he  could  do  to  restrain  it.  Tame  foxes  and  tamo 
owls  have  also  been  given  up.  The  former  bit  their 
keepers,  the  latter  ate  each  other  up.  The  dogs 
multiply  rapidly,  and  would  increase  faster,  but  that 
the  pups  are  eaten  by  the  old  ones.  I  saw  the  mother 
of  a  dead  pup  keeping  Ritenbank  from  swallowing  it, 
while  she  hesitated  whether  or  not  she  would  do  the 
same  thing  herself. 

"We  are  again  building  around  our  house  with 
ice,  which  proved  such  an  addition  last  winter,  and 
the  double  sashes  to  the  windows  have  bt  ..  put  in. 
I  have  added  a  side-board  to  my  bunk  and  covered 
the  adjacent  walls  with  paper,  thus  adding  to  the 
warmth.  Much  may  be  done  to  mitigate  the  evils  of 
this  climate.  The  moral  and  social  evils  are  what  we 
can  not  meet,  or  rather  do  not  repel." 

Mrs.  Greely*s  birthday  was  again  observed,  chiefly 
by  a  good  dinner  with  wine  furnished  by  Lieutenant 
Greely.  Lockwood's  own  birthday  was  also  cele- 
brated in  like  manner,  when  he  recorded  the  follow- 
ing :  "After  dinner  Lieutenant  Greely  and  I  had  a 
long  talk — reminiscences  of  army-life,  speculations  as 
to  our  retreat  in  boats,  etc.     When  alone,  my  mind 


• 

0  cir- 

ncen- 

n  up. 
ihmd, 

. 

ll,  tlio 

love, 

nding 

tame 

their 

dogs 
;  that 

• 

lother 

.  .* 

ngit, 

lo  tho 

.  ,#     . 

with 

r,  and 

at  in. 

' 

)vered 

0  the 

nls  of 

lat  we 

jhiefly 
enant 

,'     ■ 

cele- 

dUow- 

1-     '              '  • 

had  a 

3ns  as 

mind 

• 

_ 

4 


S  I' 


it 


t      f' 


h 


m 


!■■ 


f'jf 


s    f< 


M 


ii.  i' 


p  '1 


l!    f  '? 


'W'' 


m  -If 

U  ..g^^ 

Ii  ■ 

I'f 

'i  ■    -vi 

;  r     1 

Ml 

i  '[ 

1 

1 1 

o 


o 

o 

o 


c 
o 
O 


■o 
o 
o 

i 

o 

o 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


215 


turned  to  the  dear  ones  at  home  and  the  many  warm 
friends  I  had  elsewhere,  and  to  the  happy  days  spent 
with  them. 

"  My  corner,  which  is  the  coldest  of  all  the  cor- 
ners, was  improved  by  covering  floor  and  walls  with 
paper.  I  also  found  an  improvement  by  adding  side- 
boards to  the  bunk,  and  finally  by  converting  the  bed 
into  a  regular  sleeping-bag.  Before  this  was  done,  I 
sometimes  became  very  chilly  during  the  night  after 
the  fires  went  down.  Our  lamps  now  burn  all  day. 
IIow  wearisome  this  constant  artificial  light  becomes, 
we  know  from  the  experience  of  last  winter.  I  dread 
it  under  our  present  social  relations.  Even  Lieutenant 
Greely  refers  to  these  as  intensifying  what  would  other- 
wise not  much  distress  him.  My  daily  routine  is  some- 
what as  follows :  Breakfast  at  half-past  seven,  with 
scarcely  a  word  spoken  by  any  one.  Then  I  smoke, 
standing  by  the  stove  in  the  cook's  room.  After- 
ward, tailoring  or  some  other  work.  At  noon,  a  walk 
to  Proteus  Point  if  possible.  Afterward,  read  or  sleep 
till  dinner  at  four.  Again  smoke  as  before.  Then 
a  few  games  of  chess  with  Lieutenant  Greely  or  check- 
ers with  the  Esquimaux.  Then  read  a  little  French 
or  a  good  deal  of  whatever  I  find  most  interesting. 
Then  to  my  army-bunk,  to  sleep  till  next  morning, 
when  the  same  routine  is  repeated." 

On  the  20th,  he  made  a  trip  to  Depot  "  B  "  with 
some  of  the  m.sn  and  two  dog-sledges  to  bring  down 
the  musk-ox  meat  left  there  in  cache.  They  found 
the  foot-ice  near  shore  so  rough  that  they  had  to  keep 
well  out,  but  still  they  made  the  eighteen  miles  in  six 


'*-^ 


^ 


1^ 

1 


fl 


th 


n 


■    ^1 


216 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


hours,  which  may  be  regarded  as  fair  traveling  with 
dogs. 

They  met  many  bear-tracks,  but  old,  probably  made 
by  the  same  animals  that  visited  the  station.  They 
found  that  these  animals,  and  also  foxes,  had  found 
their  me&i-cache  and  had  done  much  damage,  four 
quarters  of  meat  and  fifteen  geese  having  been  eaten 
by  them  or  taken  away.  Returning  next  day  with 
what  reaiained,  and  taking  in  more  meat  at  St.  Pat- 
rick's Bay  in  still  worse  condition,  they  made  their 
way  home  over  a  sea  of  rubble-ice.  To  show  the 
effects  of  ice-mo vemei-ts,  Lockwood  observed,  when 
crossing  Watercourse  Bay  on  their  return,  the  sledge- 
tracks  made  the  day  before  fifty  feet  in  the  air  on  top 
of  floe-bergs ! 

They  made  a  visit  to  some  floe-bergs  at  the  mouth 
of  Lady  Franklin  Bay  to  get  specimens  of  colored  ice 
seen  there  on  a  berg.  These  were  mostly  yellow,  but 
some  specimens  almost  black.  On  melting,  they  gave 
an  offensive  odor,  and  made  deposits  of  their  color. 
Analysis  only  could  determine  the  nature  of  the  col- 
oring-matter. Young  ice  was  measured,  and  found 
to  be  twenty  inches  thick. 

Lockwood  would  have  been  glad  enough  to  be 
away  from  that  cold  region,  and  yet  he  seemed  de- 
termined again  to  explore  the  north  Greenland  coast, 
and  thought  that,  under  favorable  circumstances,  he 
could  go  farther  than  he  had  already  gone  by  at  least 
seven ty-fi:e  miles,  thereby  manifesting  a  degree  of 
pluck  almost  unique  in  its  character.  Difficulties 
might  arise  to  defeat  his  plans,  but,  these  surmount- 


lii  \  «tt 


to  be 
3d  de- 
I  coast, 
)es,  he 
It  least 
fee  of 
julties 
lount- 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


217 


ed,  all  his  energies  and  hopes  would  be  directed  to 
returning  home.  It  was  Lieutenant  Greely's  opinion, 
however,  that  his  "farthest"  would  not  be  again 
reached  in  the  present  century. 

On  the  5th  of  November  Dr.  Pavy  returned  from 
an  expedition  to  Carl  Rittcr  Bay,  which  he  had 
reached  by  following  the  valley  back  of  Cape  Lieber, 
as  the  ice-foot  was  found  impracticable.  The  dog- 
food,  or  dried  fish,  taken,  being  insufficient  and  poor, 
one  of  the  dogs  died,  and  was  immediately  eaten  by 
the  ot^f^rs.  The  straits  below  were  found  quite  open. 
They  killed  one  musk-ox,  but  could  not  bring  in  the 
meat.  On  the  return,  so  rough  was  the  ice  over  the 
bav  that  twelve  hours  were  required  to  cross  from 
Cape  Baird. 

The  doctor  urged  the  policy  of  storing  provisions 
at  Cape  Hawkes  for  their  boat-journey,  a  thing  easier 
to  talk  about  than  to  do,  as  Cape  Ilawkes  was  one 
hundred  and  fifty-five  miles,  in  a  straight  line,  south 
of  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  and  it  would  occupy  a  dog- 
sledge  to  go  and  return  at  least  one  month.  If  any- 
thing was  to  be  done  in  that  direction,  all  thoughts  of 
further  exploration  must  be  abandoned.  The  doctor 
predicted  that  a  naval  expedition  would  be  sent  for 
them  the  next  year.  Congress  having  hitherto  failed 
to  provide  for  their  relief. 

In  one  of  his  tramps  to  Proteus  Point,  Lockwood's 
feet  were  again  frosted,  owing  partly  to  his  imperfect 
foot-gear,  and  he  then  became  convinced  that  a  light, 
flexible  moccasin  was  the  best  thing  to  wear  in  that 
country. 


n 


'i:  A 


'J 


I'.        f 


f  !■ 


■V 


\ 

|,. 

w 

t 

Ml 

'Ini 

1 

i  nil 

'» 

i 

1 

' 

1 

1 

1  '*m 

t  I 

218 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


For  several  days  about  the  middle  of  November, 
there  were  magnetic  disturbances  of  a  pronounced 
character  coincident  with  the  storms  and  auroras  they 
were  experiencing.  Storms  were  always  indicated  by 
rapid  changes  of  barometer,  but  sometimes  the  ba- 
rometer fell  and  no  storm  followed.  Auroras  had 
recently  been  attended  with  varied  colors,  which  was 
unusual,  as  they  had  formerly  been  uniformly  white. 
A  surveyor  working  there  would  find,  at  times,  his 
compass-needle  almost  unmanageable.  Seals  were 
seen  in  the  most  unexpected  places,  one  of  them  hav- 
ing been  killed  with  a  hatchet  in  a  tide-hole. 

On  the  21st,  Lockwood  was  startled,  when  setting 
out  on  his  usual  walk,  to  see  what  looked  like  smoke 
coming  from  the  roof  of  the  house  ;  but  what  he  mis- 
took for  smoke  was  only  the  condensation  of  vapor 
escaping  from  the  house.  The  appearance  of  the 
smoke  coming  from  the  chimney,  and  of  the  steam 
from  the  roof,  projected  as  they  were  on  the  sides  of 
the  snow-covered  mountains,  was  very  pretty.  The 
ice-wall  around  the  house  was  a  great  protection,  not 
only  keeping  the  hot  air  in,  but  protecting  the  house 
from  the  furious  blasts  which  would  otherwise  enter 
it,  if,  indeed,  they  did  not  destroy  it. 

Lieutenant  Greely  resumed  his  lecture?  which  had 
before  proved  so  interesting.  He  gave  one,  which 
they  all  admired,  on  the  history  of  his  native  town, 
Newburyport.  Israel  had  also  assumed  the  rSle  of 
lecturer  on  astronomy,  with  which  he  was  familiar. 

When  Lockwood  became  desperate  with  ennui)  he 
got  out  his  old  letters  and  again  read  them,  as  they 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


219 


'^4^ 


'l. 


carried  him  back  to  his  distant  home  and  parents  and 
sisters.  He  earnestly  prayed  that  a  kind  Providence 
would  restore  him  to  them.  This  was  the  end  of  all 
his  hopes. 

On  the  30th  of  November  Lockwood  wrote  as  fol- 
lows :  "  This  is  the  day  Lieutenant  Greely  appointed 
for  thanksgiving,  and  thankfully  should  we  keep  it ; 
for  we  have  not  only  escaped  sickness  and  any  serious 
discomforts,  but  we  have  had  undoubted  success  in 
our  efforts  both  scientific  and  geographical.  We  have 
had  a  royal  feast  of  soup,  beef,  corn,  Lima  beans, 
pineapple-jelly,  nuts,  and  figs." 

Contrary  to  his  resolve,  a  few  days  later  he  com- 
menced reading  novels.  His  feeling  was  that  they 
withdraw  one  from  one's  self,  which  is  something 
gained ;  but  th  put  one  up  in  the  clouds  from 
which  it  is  often  painful  to  descend.  They  cause 
the  reader  to  live  for  a  time  in  an  ideal  world,  and 
bring  him  back  to  the  stern  reality  with  a  sense  of 
disappointment. 

On  the  8th  of  December,  Lockwood  was  greatly 
impressed  by  the  absence  of  light,  and  gave  his  views 
as  follows  :  "It  is  now  very  dark,  even  at  noon,  ex- 
cept when  we  have  the  moon  and  a  clear  sky.  Even 
on  the  floe,  where  the  pure  white  snow  reflects  every 
bit  of  light,  it  is  now  so  obscure  that  it  is  difficult  to 
see  the  path  at  one's  feet ;  and  even  the  outlines  of  the 
mountains,  high  above  the  horizon,  arc  very  dim.  A 
faint  gleam  of  twilight  over  the  south  horizon,  at 
noon  only,  shows  the  direction  in  wliich  the  sun  and 
*  God's  country '  lie.     So  dark  is  it  that  I  have  sev- 


ill 


:.  I! 


m 

BIS 


11 


li 


4 


220 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


eral  times  stumbled  over  the  dogs  lying  outside  at  the 
door ;  and  when  in  a  pathway,  one  has  rather  to  feel 
the  way  than  see  it,  requiring  the  use  of  a  lantern  in 
going  from  the  house. 

**  No  wonder,  then,  that  the  moon  is  so  highly  ap- 
preciated in  this  benighted  region.  How  delightful  it 
is,  after  a  fortnight's  absence,  to  haye  her  with  us  once 
again  I  How  a  poet  would  rave  over  the  moon  could 
he  once  know  a  polrr  winter !  We  have  her  now  in 
all  her  glory,  lighting  up  this  vast  desert  waste,  which, 
covered  with  its  mantle  of  snow  and  ice,  now  becomes 
a  thing  of  beauty. 

"The  effect  of  continued  absence  of  sunlight  is 
very  marked  in  the  complexion  of  all  the  men,  as  well 
as  in  their  loss  of  vigor.  They  are  as  blanched  as 
potato-sprouts  in  a  dark  cellar.  Blessed  orb  of  light 
and  life  !  One  can  hardly  imagine  the  one  without 
the  other.  The  moral  as  well  as  the  physical  influ- 
ence of  sunlight  is  very  soon  seen  after  the  sun's  reap- 
pearance, the  middle  of  February." 

They  still  kept  up  birthdays,  and  the  24th  was 
that  of  Saler,  when  they  had  a  feast  selected  by  him- 
self. The  musk-ox  beef  was  particularly  good,  being 
young  and  tender,  and  free  from  the  musk  flavor  so 
common  with  old  oxen.  They  were  now  used  to  this, 
however,  and  it  did  not  trouble  them. 

In  the  evening  Lieutenant  Greely  brought  out  a 
few  Christmas  presents  to  distribute,  which  had  not 
bt'.n  issued  the  previous  year,  and  there  were  some 
prizes  of  tobacco,  soap,  etc.,  raffled  for.  A  chromo- 
picture  of  good  **King  Billy"  of  Prussia  was  given 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


221 


to  Long,  whose  hair  is  somewhat  red.  The  hair  in 
the  picture  being  of  the  same  color,  much  mirth  was 
elicited,  as  Long  was  sensitive  about  his  hair,  and  was 
constantly  chaffed  by  the  men  on  that  account.  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  made  a  few  appropriate  remarks,  refer- 
ring to  the  success  of  the  expedition,  and  praying  that 
their  good  fortune  might  continue,  etc. 

The  Christmas-dinner  was  remarkably  good — one 
that  might  have  been  enjoyed  anywhere.  The  appe- 
tites of  the  men  and  of  the  oflQcers  were  equal  to  the 
occasion.  Of  late  some  of  them  had  shown  less  appe- 
tite than  formerly,  possibly  because  their  supplies 
showing  signs  of  failing  in  a  few  particulars,  the  table 
had  shovi^n  less  variety.  The  average  weight  of  the 
men  was  found  to  be  one  hundred  and  seventy-one 
pounds,  Lockwood's  weight  being  one  hundred  and 
seventy-six,  embodying  a  good  deal  of  caloric. 

On  the  8th  of  January,  1883,  after  repairing  some 
damage  done  to  the  launch  by  the  ice.  Lieutenant 
Greely  announced  his  resolve  to  leave  for  home  in 
boats  not  later  than  August  8th,  and  sooner,  if  the 
ice  permitted. 

On  the  23d,  efforts  were  made  to  cross  the  bay  to 
Cape  Baird,  but  without  success,  the  difficulties  being 
the  absence  of  light,  the  intense  cold,  and  the  ex- 
tremely rough  ice.  It  was  desired  to  open  a  passage 
to  Cape  Baird,  and  make  a  depot  of  provisions  there 
for  use  on  the  retreat.  Their  first  efforts  carried  these 
stores  only  to  mid-channel,  but  afterward  Sergeant 
Lynn  and  others  carried  them  over  to  Cape  Baird. 

Much  of  Lockwood's  time  was  of  necessity  occu- 


..*. 


'llM 


M 


rf! 


H 

'A 


r'\ 


■; 


'ii 


222 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


I  f, 


pied  in  tailoring,  and  he  had  become  quite  an  export. 
Service  in  the  north  not  only  diemanded  much  cloth- 
ing, but  the  garments  must  be  strong  and  warm. 
Their  supply  in  store  being  somewhat  limited  and  not 
judiciously  chosen,  particularly  in  foot-  and  hand- 
gear,  all  were  from  time  to  time  engaged  in  repaii 
ing  old  garments  or  making  new.  Rico  suggested  a 
method  of  doubling  the  supply  of  woolen  socks  by 
cutting  off  the  legs  of  long  stockings  and  sewing  up 
the  bottoms  of  the  leg  part.  For  his  proposed  spring 
trip,  Lockwood  was  counting  upon  a  rig  consisting  of 
two  merino  shirts,  three  flannel  shirts,  one  chamois 
Test,  one  vest  made  of  two  thicknesses  of  army- 
blanket,  one  woolen  Jersey,  one  swan-skin  cloth  over- 
shirt,  one  pair  of  merino  drawers,  two  pairs  of  flannel 
drawers,  soldier's  trousers,  cloth  cap  covering  head 
and  neck  with  a  skirt  covering  the  shoulders,  and  a 
pair  of  moccasins  over  heavy  woolen  socks — all  to  be 
worn  at  once,  though  seemingly  heavy  enough  to 
weigh  down  an  elephant.  The  only  clothing  in  re- 
serve was  woolen  wrappers  and  socks  for  the  feet, 
and  a  seal-skin  "  timiak "  for  exceptionally  cold 
weather.  Having  suffered  much  from  cold  feet.  Lock- 
wood  had  paid  special  attention  to  foot-gear,  but  with- 
out great  success.  Frequently  he  was  kept  awake 
most  of  the  night  from  this  cause.  He  noticed  that 
the  dogs  suffered  more  in  their  feet  than  elsewhere, 
and  might  be  seen  at  any  time  standing  around  with 
their  feet  drawn  up  under  their  bodies.  The  feet  and 
the  nose  seemed  to  be  the  only  highly  sensitive  parts 
of  the  Esquimaux  dog,  these  being,  indeed,  the  only 


if 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


223 


parts  not  covered  with  long  wool.  Lookwood  never 
tired  of  watching  these  animals.  They  Tcrc  suscepti- 
ble to  kindness,  though  generally  getting  l.ttlo  of  it. 
Ufhey  followed  him  on  his  lonely  walks,  and  seemed 
grateful  for  any  notice  or  attention  on  his  part.  The 
young  pups  soon  became  docile  and  tractable  in  har- 
ness, though  a  little  more  difticult  to  manage  than 
old  dogs. 

When  the  1st  of  March  arrived,  all  hands  were  en- 
gaged in  preparing  for  their  spring  work.  First  in 
order  was  the  supply  of  their  depot  on  the  eastern 
side,  and  Lockwood  purposed  leaving  soon,  to  convey 
several  hundred  pounds  of  rations  to  that  place.  As 
usual  in  such  cases.  Dr.  Pavy  and  two  others  of  the 
party  indulged  themselves  in  the  most  gloomy  prog- 
nostications as  to  the  future,  declaring  that  all  idea 
of  further  explorations  should  be  abandoned,  and  all 
their  efforts  applied  to  depositing  provisions  down  the 
straits  to  secure  their  safe  retreat  in  boats  in  August 
and  September.  Both  Lieutenants  Greely  and  Lock- 
wood  did  all  they  could  to  make  a  success  of  this  expe- 
dition, but  the  social  atmosphere  was  not  congenial, 
and  there  was  little  enthusiasm  manifested.  How 
different  would  have  been  this  life  if  all  had  pulled 
together  !  Lockwood  was  impatient  to  be  away  from 
this  trouble  and  at  work.  If  he  could  not  go  farther 
than  on  his  previous  trip,  he  could  at  least  try,  and 
no  man  could  do  more  than  his  best. 

On  the  10th  of  March,  Lockwood  left  with  two 
sledge-teams  of  ten  dogs  each  for  the  purpose  of  plac- 
ing supplies  on  the  Greenland  side  of  the  straits — he, 


ft! 

ill! 


; 


224 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Sergeant  Brainard,  and  Esquimaux  Frederick,  with 
one  sledge ;  Sergeant  Jewell,  Corporal  Ellison,  and 
Jans,  with  the  other.  After  leaving  Depot  A,  where 
they  added  to  their  load,  they  had  on  each  sledge 
about  nine  hundred  and  thirty  pounds,  or  nearly  one 
hundred  pounds  per  dog.  Found  much  rubble-ice 
on  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  but,  generally,  the  route  to 
Depot  B  was  good,  and  the  journey  was  made  in 
eight  hours  from  the  station.  Although  they  had  a 
fire  in  the  little  stove  of  the  depot  tent,  all  passed  an 
uncomfortable  night,  not  only  from  cold,  but  from 
their  cramped  and  crowded  condition.  Their  feet 
were  higher  than  their  heads,  and  the  head  in  one  in- 
stance was  under  the  edge  of  the  damp,  frost-covered 
canvas.  "Woolly"  was  found  to  be  lame,  and  had 
to  be  left  in  a  hole  in  the  snow-bank,  with  a  supply  of 
hard  bread  ;  Ellison  was  feeling  badly,  yet  said,  "All 
right,"  and  insisted  on  proceeding.  Seeing  no  favora- 
ble passage  from  Cape  Beechy,  they  concluded  to  go  uj) 
to  Wrangell  Bay  and  try  the  passage  direct  from  there 
to  Cape  Brevoort.  To  reach  Wrangell,  they  had  to 
leave  the  ice-foot  and  move  out  on  the  straits,  and  soon 
found  themselves  in  an  awful  mass  of  rubble-ice  like 
a  vast  plain  covered  with  bowlders.  A  great  deal  of 
chopping  had  to  be  done  with  the  axe,  and  what  prog- 
ress they  made,  was  with  half-loads.  They  encamped 
on  the  straits,  and,  while  the  others  returned  for  the 
discarded  loads,  Lockwood  prepared  supper,  succeed- 
ing only  in  making  some  ice  into  lukewarm  tea,  which, 
with  cold  bread  and  meat,  they  hastily  swallowed  be- 
fore creeping  into  their  sleeping-bags.     They  secured 


WAITING  AND  WATCHING. 


225 


but  little  sleep,  as  may  bo  imagined  when  it  is  known 
that  the  thermometer  registered  that  night  —48°. 
Under  such  circumstances,  they  seemed  never  com- 
pletely unconscious,  and  got  up  in  the  morning  under 
the  belief  that  they  had  not  slept  at  all. 

Reaching  the  south  cape  of  Wrangell  Bay,  they 
turned  to  the  right  and  went  directly  toward  Capo 
Brevoort,  still  meeting  with  ice  of  the  most  formida- 
ble kind,  over  which  the  heavily  loaded  sledges  had 
frequently  to  be  lifted.  Tired  out,  they  camped  at 
5  P.  M.  in  the  midst  of  the  strait.  The  first  thing  to 
be  done  was  to  look  out  for  the  foot-gear.  This  al- 
ways had  a  lining  of  frost  inside  as  well  as  out,  being 
wet  from  perspiration  if  not  from  leakage.  Brainard 
always  changed  his  stockings  for  dry  ones  when  ho 
could  do  so,  but  Lockwood  and  Frederick  generally 
let  theirs  go,  the  latter  from  indifference  to  frost-bites, 
and  the  former  to  escape  the  pain  arising  from  tender 
feet  and  fingers.  By  incasing  his  feet  in  dog-  or 
sheep-skin  wrappings,  he  managed  to  pass  the  night 
comfortably. 

Ellison,  being  really  sick,  was  sent  back  to  the 
depot  to  the  tender  care  of  Woolly.  After  moving 
for  a  time  over  rubble,  several  of  the  pieces  of  which 
came  up  to  a  man's  shoulders,  they  were  greatly  en- 
couraged by  coming  to  a  grand  paleocrystic  floe,  whose 
gently  undulating  surface  stretched  east,  north,  and 
south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  This  floe  re- 
minded Lockwood  of  a  Western  prairie,  its  mounds 
and  gullies  making  the  resemblance  more  complete. 
As  an  offset  to  this  smooth  way,  they  had  to  face  an 


if 


I 


0  !, 


220 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


fe     . 


icy  north  wind  with  tho  thermometer  from  —35°  to 
—48°.  Frederick  got  one  cheek  and  a  finger  frost-bit- 
ton,  Brainard  his  face,  and  Lockwood  his  nose.  Here 
they  put  off  tho  load,  and  at  a  run  with  tho  empty 
sledge  returned  to  their  former  encampment,  where 
the  tent  was  left  standing,  to  await  the  return  of 
Jewell,  who  had  gone  back  to  Depot  B  to  leave  El- 
lison with  Woolly. 

The  next  morning,  packing  everything  on  the  two 
sledges,  they  soon  gained  the  smooth  floe  seen  the  day 
before,  whence,  detaching  Jewell  for  some  stores  at 
Lincoln  Bay,  which  he  was  to  leave  at  this  point  and 
then  return  to  Fort  Conger,  Lockwood,  Frederick, 
and  Brainard  proceeded  across  the  floe  with  as  much 
of  tho  total  loads  as  tho  dogs  of  their  sledge  could 
drag.  Coming  within  five  miles  of  Cape  Brcvoort, 
and  seeing  formidable  ice  in  that  direction,  while 
toward  Newman  Bay  the  ice  was  better,  Lockwood 
concluded  to  head  toward  that  bay.  They  did  so  until 
5  p.  M.,  and  then  camped  on  the  straits,  completely 
exhausted.  During  the  night  they  had  a  violent 
south  wind,  but  they  had  campaigned  too  much 
not  to  be  i>repared  for  this  with  tent-pins  securely 
driven. 

In  the  morning  they  made  their  way  over  pretty 
good  floes  with  some  rubble,  and  reached  at  noon  the 
whale-boat  at  Polaris  Point,  finding  the  rations  in  her 
intact.  Thence,  following  the  snow  slope  along  tho 
cliffs,  and  passing  the  point  where  Lockwood  and 
Frederick  had  spent  many  hours  the  year  before  in  a 
snow-hole,  they  passed  round  Cape  Sumner  through 


!■'  ' 


WAITING  AND   WATCUIXO. 


227 


masses  of  ice  in  some  places  piled  fifty  feet  high,  and 
finally  reached  the  Boat  Camp  on  Newman  Buy. 

Having  thus  provisioned  the  Boat  Camp,  they  took 
a  survey  of  the  routes  back,  and  concluding  that,  all 
things  considered,  the  one  direct  to  Capo  Bcechy  was 
the  best,  returned  by  it  with  the  empty  sledge,  making 
rapid  progress  and  reaching  tiio  west  shore  in  just 
seven  hours.  Notwithstanding  they  had  no  load,  the 
passage  was  by  no  means  easy,  for  they  had  to  pass 
over. mountain-ridges,  deep  pits,  and  gullies  in  the 
rubble-ice,  where  the  dogs  could  scarcely  keep  their 
footing.  Lock  wood  wa  impressed,  as  often  before, 
with  the  power  and  endurance  of  the  dogs.  Elli- 
son had  left  the  depot,  but  Woolly  still  remained,  and 
there,  also,  they  found  Jewell,  who  had  been  up  to 
Lincoln  Bay,  where  ho  found  that  the  foxes  had  eaten 
up  a  large  part  of  the  meat  in  cache  there, 

"With  Woolly  on  the  sledge,  they  returned  to  tho 
station,  meeting  Snyder  and  Whistler  en  route  with 
a  pup-team  and  sledge,  going  for  Woolly.  It  was  in- 
teresting and  touching  to  witness  tho  demonstrations 
and  delight  of  these  youngsters  on  meeting  their 
elders,  among  which  were  tho  mothers  of  some  of 
them. 

Jewell  said  that,  on  his  return  to  the  depot,  he 
put  away  his  dog-harness  in  one  of  the  empty  tents, 
and  that  when  he  awoke  the  next  morning  he  found 
nothing  remaining  but  the  bone  buttons  and  tho 
whip-handles,  the  dogs  having  eaten  everything  else. 
Another  dog-story  is  recorded  as  follows  : 

"  Milatook  had  pups  the  other  day,  and  all  were 


I  « 


I  . 


228 


FARTEEST  NORTH. 


killed  except  one.  It  was  discovered  yesterday  in  a 
very  unfortunate  condition,  with  tail  frozen  hard  and 
stiff,  and  legs  in  nearly  the  same  condition.  Some 
of  the  men  soaked  the  tail  in  water,  and  eventually 
*  brought  it  to.'    It  is  a  sad  tail." 


! 


%  ii' 


mm 

;|  ,, 

m'M 

.r    '■" 

mm 

|9 

Im      '"■ 

M  m  \ 

m  'if  ^'    ■ 

U     I  I 

ll 

1 1 

li;  ir 

in  a 
and 
ome 
ally 


XIV. 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 

Ok  the  19th  of  March,  fair  weather  came  out  of 
the  north,  and  not  only  cheered  the  hearts  of  the 
whole  colony  at  the  station,  but  f5red  the  desire  of 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  for  the  new  campaign,  which  he 
had  long  been  contemplating.  After  a  consultation 
with  Lieutenant  Greely,  he  concluded  to  start  on  the 
following  day,  or  soon  after.  As  usual,  some  cold 
water  was  thrown  upon  his  plans,  one  of  the  critics 
declaring  that  they  had  experienced  enough  of  that 
kind  of  business ;  and  another,  that  they  had  better 
be  thinking  of  their  coming  fate.  But  Lock  wood's 
reasoning  was  as  follows  :  "  Before  I  go  home,  I  must 
make  another  *  strike '  on  the  north  Greenland  coast. 
If  the  conditions  of  the  ice  are  no  worse,  I  ought  to 
be  able  to  discover  the  northeast  extremity  of  Green- 
land, and  add  several  miles  to  my  latitude,  although 
Lieutenant  Greely  thinks  that  my  present  'farthest' 
will  not  again  be  reached  in  our  day.  I  say  nothing 
about  all  this,  however.  Act  first  and  talk  afterward 
has  always  been  my  way." 

Lockwood  was  both  h,  .ful  and  determined,  and 
on  the  23d  he  received  his  final  orders  to  the  effect, 
that,  should  he  not  be  able  to  reach  a  higher  latitude 


% 


230 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


,!  I 


than  he  did  before  without  undue  danger,  or  should 
he  or  any  of  his  men  break  down  or  become  danger- 
ously ill,  he  w..:;  to  return  forthwith.  To  this  he  re- 
plied that  he  knew  not  what  might  happen,  but  he 
intended,  if  possible,  to  reach  the  eighty-fourth  paral- 
lel. In  anticipation  of  his  own  birthday,  and  to  honor 
the  explorers  with  a  good  "send-off,"  Lieutenant 
Greely  gave  a  dinner  on  the  26th,  and,  thus  fortified, 
they  were  prepared  to  move  on  the  following  day, 
rejoicing. 

Lockwood  had  two  fine  teams  of  ten  dogs  each  as- 
signed for  his  use,  and,  as  before,  the  faithful  Brainard 
and  Esquimaux  Frederick  were  to  accompany  him. 
Everything  passed  off  quietly,  without  the  excitement 
or  enthusiasm  of  the  previous  spring.  They  left  the 
station  at  8.30  A.  m.,  the  advance  sledge  bearing  the 
silk  flag  of  Mrs.  Greely,  with  Brainard  and  Frederick 
the  Esquimaux ;  the  supporting  sledge  with  Jewell, 
Ellis,  and  Esquimaux  Jans ;  and  then  the  pup-team 
and  sledge  driven  by  Snyder,  and  carrying  Greely  and 
Lockwood.  On  reaching  Watercourse  Bay,  whence 
they  were  to  take  back  a  load  of  coal.  Lieutenant 
Greely  and  team  left  them,  after  biddinjnj  God-speed, 
and  telling  them  to  be  sure  and  bring  back  the  north 
end  of  Greenland  I  Eeaching  Depot  A  in  two  and 
a  quarter  hours,  they  took  on  two  small  seals  left 
there,  and  passing  Depot  B,  where  they  obtained  more 
"provisions,  they  reached  Cape  Beechy  at  4  p.  m. — the 
dogs  quite  fresh,  but  the  men  much  wearied. 

When  they  resumed  their  journey,  it  was  snowing 
and  the  Greenland  shore  invisible.    They  took  a  di- 


the 

ing 
di- 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE, 


231 


rect  course  by  compass  for  Cape  Sumner  over  rubble- 
ice  until  they  reached  the  first  floe,  on  whose  hard, 
undulating  surface  they  made  rapid  progress  until 
they  came  to  rubble-ice  again.  Brainard,  with  axe  in 
hpnd,  went  ahead,  clearing  the  way  over  impassable 
places,  until  the  high  cliff  of  Polaris  Promontory  came 
in  sight.  Finally,  both  Jewell  and  Ellis  suffering 
from  pain,  when  three  miles  from  Cape  Sumner  they 
stopped  for  the  night,  after  making  twenty  miles,  and 
all  went  into  bags. 

Moving  early  next  morning  with  considerable 
wind,  they  got  into  bad  ice  with  cracks,  down  which 
some  of  the  dogs  fell  and  had  to  be  drawn  up  ;  but 
finally,  finding  a  better  route,  reached  the  Polaris 
Boat  Camp,  where,  leaving  some  meat  for  the  dogs 
when  returning,  they  continued  on  toward  Gap  Val- 
ley, generally  over  rolling  floos,  and  through  rubble, 
requiring  a  good  deal  of  cutting,  tugging,  and  push- 


ing. 


When  three  miles  out  they  went  into  camp  again, 
leaving  Ellis  to  prepare  supper  for  all,  while  the 
others,  with  both  sledges,  returned  to  the  Boat  Camp. 

Leaving  Brainard  to  get  ready  the  alcohol  to  be 
taken  from  the  whale-boat,  they  kept  on  along  shore 
to  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  and  the  cache.  Here  they 
found  the  snow-slopes  much  worse  than  on  their  last 
visit,  but,  the  sledges  being  empty,  they  could  have 
gone  along  over  anything  except  a  stone  wall,  and 
even  that  would  have  had  to  be  very  high  to  stop  them. 
Fox- tracks  were  seen  near  the  cache,  but  they  found 
it  intact.    The  ice  they  had  piled  about  it  was  al- 


I  il 


t 

i   4 ' 


i 


-3? 


232 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


sVf^ 


I    n 


most  covered  by  the  drifting  snow.  The  contents  of 
the  cache,  about  one  thousand  pounds  in  all,  were  put 
on  the  two  sledges,  and  soon  after  they  went  down  a 
snow-bank  so  steep  and  hard  that  the  sledges  took 
entire  command,  though  all  hands  tried  to  hold  them 
back  ;  but  the  dogs  keeping  out  of  the  way,  no  harm 
was  done.  This  was  at  Cape  Sumner,  whence  they 
returned  to  the  Boat  Camp.  Here,  taking  on  the 
things  prepared  by  Brainard,  they  returned  to  the 
tents.  After  supper  some  hours  were  spent  in  getting 
ready  the  rations  for  from  twenty  to  forty-eight  days. 
Jewell  and  Ellis  were  both  complaining;  otherwise, 
everything  looked  very  promising. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th,  it  was  clear  overhead 
but  cloudy  around  the  horizon,  and  a  slight  snow 
was  falling.  The  loads  were  about  eleven  hundred 
pounds  to  each  team,  but  the  dcgs  did  admirably, 
and  good  speed  was  made,  the  ice  being  covered  with 
a  very  light  depth  of  snow.  At  the  mouth  of  the 
gorge  by  which  they  were  to  ascend  and  cross  the 
Brevoort  Peninsula,  they  reduced  the  load  on  each 
sledge  and  started  up  this  narrow,  rocky,  winding 
cation.  The  snow  was  hard  and  they  were  getting 
along  well,  when  right  before  them  appeared  a  wall 
of  snow,  so  steep  and  hard  that  Lockwood  had  to 
use  his  big  knife,  to  ascend.  It  was  about  thirty 
feet  high.  He  went  alone  to  view  the  situation.  A 
few  yards  beyond  was  a  kind  of  ice  tunnel  whose  roof 
was  about  three  feet  high.  Then  came  another  high, 
steep  snow-drift  with  a  snow-cavern  alongside,  prob- 
ably fifty  yards  in  length ;  and  also  a  few  feet  far- 


'i     I 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  oTRUGGLE. 


233 


ther  was  found  a  deep  pit  formed  by  the  snow. 
Climbing  around  this  and  proceeding  half  a  mile,  he 
found  that  the  gorge  made  a  bend  to  the  east  and  be- 
came still  more  narrow  and  rocicy ;  but  a  side  ravine 
offered  a  chance  to  get  out  of  this  big  gutter,  up  a 
long,  steep  slope  of  hard  snow,  three  or  four  times  the 
height  of  the  preceding  drifts ;  and  then  Lockwood 
found  himself  on  the  table-land  oyerlooking  Newman 
Bay. 

The  sledges  with  great  difficulty  gained  this  com- 
paratively level  divide.  The  landmarks  not  being 
altogether  familiar  to  Lockwood,  he  took  a  long  walk 
aftCi.'  supper  to  a  distant  ridge,  where,  seeing  the  sea- 
coast,  his  way  became  perfectly  clear.  It  was  a 
lonely  and  dismal  walk,  and  the  ridge  seemed  to  get 
farther  away  as  he  approached  it.  After  more  i  han 
two  hours'  absence  he  returned  to  the  tents,  crawled 
in  alongside  of  Sergeant  Brainard,  and  was  quickly 
lulled  to  sleep  notwithstanding  the  snoring  of  Fred- 
erick. The  horrid  sound  issuing  from  his  bag  was 
as  loud  as  a  brass  band  at  a  circus. 

The  process  of  getting  breakfast  was  to  be  preferred 
to  that  of  getting  supper.  "When  a  man  went  into 
camp,  after  a  toilsome  day  of  travel,  and  had  helped 
to  pitch  tent  and  unload  the  sledge,  it  was  hard,  while 
covered  with  frost,  with  cold  and  perhaps  wet  feet,  to 
chop  ice  and  meat,  and  handle  cold  metal. 

After  an  uncomfortable  night,  with  the  tempera- 
ture down  to  —45°,  they  started  again.  Proceeding 
several  miles,  they  reached  a  narrow,  winding  ravine, 
and  finally  a  gorge,  which  they  followed  until  they 


I.' 

I 


ii\ 


H\ 


234 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


w 


■n 


came  to  the  head  of  the  wide  Gap  Valley,  and  thence 
to  the  sea-coast.  Turning  east,  they  continued  on  a 
few  hundred  yards,  and  were  then  stopped  by  the  ice- 
wall,  which  crowded  so  closely  to  the  shore  that  the 
sledges  could  not  be  hauled  through.  Lockwood  and 
Frederick  pitched  the  tent,  while  Brainard  went  ahead 
with  the  axe,  and,  after  much  hard  work,  made  a 
passage  about  one  eighth  of  a  mile  long  through  this 
place.  They  managed  to  worry  through  with  half 
the  load  by  three  o'clock,  and,  leaving  Brainard  to  get 
supper,  Lockwood  and  Frederick  went  on  with  half 
the  load  for  about  one  and  a  half  miles.  The  route 
beyond  the  bad  place  was  excellent.  Dropping  the 
load,  they  returned  to  the  tent  by  four  o'clock.  Jew- 
ell came  along  later,  he  and  Ellis  complaining  again 
of  their  diflBculty  in  keeping  up  with  the  sledge  when 
it  went  faster  than  a  slow  walk. 

While  approaching  the  cairn  at  Repulse  Harbor, 
on  the  1st  of  April,  Brainard's  sharp  eyes  discovered 
the  site  of  the  English  depot  of  rations,  which  con- 
tained LJeutenant  Beaumont's  sextant,  an  English 
flag,  a  cooking-lamp,  old  clothes,  and  some  foot-gear. 
The  road  before  them  was  excellent,  and  they  made 
good  time,  soon  passing  the  route  of  the  preceding 
year,  which  reached  the  coast  just  east  of  Repulse 
Harbor. 

On  coming  near  Drift  Point,  they  were  better  able 
to  see  the  northern  expanse  outside  the  ice-wall  which 
lined  the  coast  and  had  interrupted  the  view.  Lock- 
wood  saw  a  good  deal  of  young  ice  interspersed  with 
holes,  and  leads  of  open  water.     The  main  pack  be- 


r  able 
vhich 
(ock- 
with 
k  be- 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


235 


yond  seemed  permeated  by  leads  of  what  bad  been 
quite  recently  open  water-  Dark,  misty  "water- 
clouds  "  were  seen  everywhere  northward.  The  young 
ice  extended  along  shore  in  both  directions  as  far  as 
they  could  see,  and  out  from  shore  a  hundred  yards 
or  m'^rc.  Beyond  it  was  the  polar  pack,  broken  into 
small  floes  and  rubble-ice,  which  had  a  glistening 
green  appearance,  as  though  recently  pushed  up  by 
the  grinding  of  the  fields  about  it ;  all  this  was  very 
surprising. 

They  made  their  way  over  the  snow-slopes  of  Drift 
Point  and  beyond  until  the  near  approach  of  the  cliffs 
on  one  side  and  the  ice-wall  on  the  other  brought 
them  to  a  halt  eighty  miles  from  Fort  Conger.  Hera 
they  encamped  with  everything,  having  come  thus  fr.r 
in  six  days. 

The  ice-wall  along  here  was  from  forty  to  fifty 
feet  high.  Outside,  there  was  a  good  deal  of  ice  late- 
ly formed,  with  smooth  floes.  Tliey  passed  on  near 
the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  to  see  if  there  was  any  way  of 
getting  along  the  cliffs,  making  their  way  between 
the  ice-wall  and  the  foot  of  the  steep  slopes  of  the 
bluffs  with  great  effort.  The  debris  of  stone,  etc., 
from  the  cliffs  above  made  the  route  almost  impracti- 
cable for  a  sledge.  Before  reaching  Black  Horn  Cliffs, 
they  were  obliged  to  find  a  route  along  the  top  of  the 
ice-wall,  and  thus  got  a  short  distance  along  the  bot- 
tom of  these  vertical  cliffs.  But  now,  from  a  fissure 
in  the  cliffs  above,  came  a  steep  drift  of  very  hard 
snow,  slanting  down  to  the  water  at  its  foot.  To 
scale  the  cliffs  by  means  of  this  drift  was  dangerous. 


■^   i.  ' 

4 


1 1 


li! 


I 


i 


'i 


r-' 


ii,L 


236 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


as  a  slip  would  inevitably  have  taken  one  directly  into 
the  water. 

By  cutting  steps  in  the  snow  they  gained  a  consid- 
erable elevation,  but,  on  looking  round  a  point  of 
rocks,  the  height  beyond  was  so  much  greater  and 
worse  than  they  expected,  that  they  could  not  proceed. 
All  along  shore  was  the  crack  of  open  water  about  a 
yard  wide,  with  young  ice  beyond,  through  which  a 
stone  or  fragment  of  ice  might  be  thrown.  Dense 
water-cloudg  appeared  in  many  directions.  They  re- 
turned to  camp,  and,  after  enjoying  some  tea,  Lock- 
wood  gave  Jewell  the  tidal  rod  to  make  observations, 
while  with  Brainard  he  started  out  again,  this  time 
to  the  south  and  up  a  stream-bed,  at  whose  mouth 
they  were  encamped,  hoping  to  find  a  route  back  of 
thu  cliffs  overland.  They  soon  found  themselves  in 
a  ravine  with  high,  rocky  sides,  and  encountered  a 
steep  snow-drift.  Beyond  was  a  small  hole  in  the 
enow,  which  seemed  to  be  a  cavern  or  grotto  formed 
of  snow  and  ice,  and  probably  running  down  to  the 
bed  of  the  stream — if  that  may  be  called  a  stream 
which  has  no  water.  Beyond  this  v/ere  exposed 
rocks  under  foot,  and  tlicy  saw  ptarmigan-tracks, 
where  the  birds  had  used  theii  wings  in  getting 
down  a  snow-drift.  Finally,  ihey  came  to  a  branch 
ravine  from  the  southeast,  the  main  stream  leading  off 
toward  the  south.  Thej  turned  up  the  branch,  and 
kept  on  for  a  while,  when  the  high  rocky  sides  seemed 
to  come  to  a  formiition  of  ice  like  a  glacier,  p,  hun- 
dred feet  high,  at  least,,  and  very  steep.  The  crest  was 
perpendicular.     The  route  thus  far  was  difficult  yet 


.:^i 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


237 


practicable,  but  it  was  clearly  impossible  for  a  dog- 
team  to  haul  an  empty  sledge  up  this  place,  and  yet 
it  was  the  only  place  where  there  was  anything  else 
than  an  inclined  plane  of  rocks.  The  glacier  was 
covered  with  snow,  but  in  many  places  the  ice  could 
be  seen  cropping  out,  the  snow  being  only  a  thin  cov- 
ering. Some  ice-grottoes  were  also  seen.  They  clam- 
bered up  the  rocks  to  the  left,  and  found  themselves 
on  a  stony  plateau.  Off  to  the  east  was  an  elevated 
ridge  or  knoll,  toward  which  they  traveled  about  a 
mile  and  a  half.  On  gaining  it,  the  barometer  showed 
an  elevation  of  thirteen  hundred  feet.  Toward  the 
south  was  a  chain  of  mountains  running  east  and  west, 
through  the  western  extremity  of  which  the  main 
stream-bed  they  had  ascended  seemed  to  break,  about 
six  miles  from  the  sea.  The  branch  appeared  to  end 
at  the  glacier ;  but  to  the  east  of  it  the  land  sloped 
north  and  south,  and  formed  a  surface-drain  which, 
running  east,  soon  narrowed  into  a  gorge,  and,  bend- 
ing to  the  north,  reached  the  sea  just  west  of  Rest 
Gorge,  as  well  as  they  could  make  out.  At  the  bend 
was  a  large  formation  of  ice  or  snow. 

They  returned  to  camp  at  3  p.  m.,  and  found 
every  one  there  walking  vigorously  up  and  down  to 
keep  warm,  or,  rather,  to  keep  from  freezing,  the 
thermometer  marking  —48°.  Jewell  left  his  beat 
every  few  minutes  to  note  the  height  of  the  water  on 
the  tide-rod.  There  was  now  nothing  else  to  do  ex- 
cept to  get  into  the  sleeping-bags,  and  this  in  cold 
weather  always  involves  a  change  of  foot-gear.  At 
six  o'clock  Brainard  had  prepared  supper,  and  shortly 


I   i 


m 


u  i'  j^ 


II 


233 


FARTHEST  NORTIT. 


11! 


after,  the  advance  sledge-party  was  trying  to  sleep. 
Jewell  kept  on  taking  observations  until  after  eleven, 
when  he  caught  the  high  tide.  It  was  a  severe  ordeal, 
but  he  preferred  to  do  it,  without  assistance,  as  it 
was  much  better  for  the  record. 

Brainard  complained  of  want  of  sleep,  and  Lock- 
wood's  rest  was  much  the  same  as  usual — an  uneasy, 
oppressed  feeling  of  being  half  asleep  and  half  awake ; 
every  few  hours  getting  broad  awake,  and  wondering 
if  it  were  time  to  rise,  or  how  much  colder  his  feet 
would  have  to  get  before  freezing.  Having  decided 
to  examine  the  main  ravine  running  south,  Lockwood 
started  from  camp  before  eight,  with  Brainard,  Fred- 
erick, and  Ellis.  On  reaching  the  branch,  he  and 
Ellis  continued  south,  and  the  other  two  went  up  the 
branch.  Continuing  along  between  the  high,  rocky 
sides  of  the  ravine,  with  abundance  of  hard  snow 
under  foot,  but  some  bad  snow-drifts,  they  found  a 
very  good  sledge-route.  After  a  while,  they  came  to 
a  huge  formation  of  snow,  filling  the  whole  breadth  of 
the  ravine,  and  sloping  up — in  one  place  by  a  very  easy 
ascent — to  the  west  bank.  Gaining  this,  they  contin- 
ued on  and  reached  a  ridge  some  twelve  hundred  feet 
high,  which  commanded  a  view  of  the  sea,  and  of  the 
valley  to  the  south  as  far  as  the  mountains.  The  val- 
ley seemed  to  grow  wider  and  deeper  as  far  as  the 
mountains,  through  which  it  broke  from  a  southwest 
direction.  No  break  or  defile  of  any  kind  offered  an 
outlet  to  the  east.  Beyond  the  east  bank  was  a  wide 
plateau  covered  with  stones,  and  about  four  miles 
from  the  sea.     After  taking  a  good  survey  of  the 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


239 


country,  they  turned  back  toward  the  camp.  Brain- 
ard  and  Frederick  joined  tliem  some  time  afterward, 
and  reported  that  they  had  cut  ono  hundred  and 
fifty-two  .^teps  in  the  side  of  the  glacier  to  get  up,  and 
found  that  tlio  branch  extended  a  short  distance  be- 
yond, but  that  a  vertical  ledge  of  ice  some  twelve  feet 
high  presented  itself  afterward,  and  that,  on  getting 
beyond  this,  they  found  themselves  on  a  plateau  cov- 
ered with  bare  stones.  Brainard  thought  the  route 
utterly  impracticable,  and  went  no  farther.  He  after- 
ward said  that  they  might  bo  able  to  get  round  to 
Rest  Gorge  in  two  weeks,  with  the  sledges  and  loads, 
by  taking  the  sledges  to  pieces,  and  carrying  them 
and  the  loads  piecemeal  over  these  obstructions.  The 
young  ice  seemed  to  be  getting  thicker,  and  they  be- 
gan to  think  they  might  get  around  the  cliffs  after 
all.  They  had  some  tea  and  **pap,"  and  began  to 
calculate  how  many  days  it  would  take  to  reach  Cape 
Bryant.  During  the  afternoon,  a  way  for  the  sledge 
was  cut  through  a  low  place  in  the  ice-wall,  a  short 
distance  west  of  the  camp,  and  two  days'  rations  were 
also  deposited  in  a  cache  on  the  hill.  A  slight  wind 
blew  during  the  day,  and  by  eight  o'clock  all  were  in 
their  sleeping-bags  again,  excepting  Jewell,  who  kept 
up  tidal  observations  until  ten,  securing  a  very  satis- 
factory set,  two  high  tides  and  the  intervening  low 
tide. 

Thermometer  during  the  night  —43°.  After  break- 
fast, Brainard  went  down  to  the  tide-gauge,  and,  com- 
ing back,  reported  that  the  rising  tide  had  widened 

the  crack  a  little,  but  that  he  had  fixed  it  by  chop- 
11 


1 


Siii 


:  ■  'r 


^!^ 


■  I. 'I 


i'l 


240 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


!     i 


ping  snow  blocks  and  throwing  them  into  tlio  water. 
Being  unwilling  to  risk  everything  on  the  young  ice, 
thinking  that  it  might  break  through,  Lockwood  put 
the  five  sacks  of  pemmican  on  'd\Q  sledge,  and  leaving 
the  tent,  etc.,  and  the  supporting  sledge-party  pack- 
ing up,  he,  Brainard,  and  Frederick  started  on.  They 
reached  the  ice  with  no  trouble,  and,  proceeding  out 
from  shore  one  or  two  hundred  yards,  turned  to  the 
east  and  went  a  short  distance  when,  Frederick  seeming 
to  think  the  ice  all  right,  Lockwood  sent  Brainard 
ahead  with  the  axe,  while  with  Frederick,  having 
thrown  off  the  load,  he  proceeded  back  for  the  rest  of 
the  stores,  so  as  to  take  all  on  together.  They  had 
nearly  reached  the  shore,  when  suddenly  Lockwood 
saw  two  or  three  of  the  dogs  in  the  water,  and  knew 
from  Frederick's  tones  that  something  had  happened. 
The  ice  was  moving  out  from  shore,  and  they  saw  no 
way  of  getting  off.  Lockwood  called  for  Jewell,  and 
then  leaving  Frederick  and  his  team  to  find  a  way  to 
shore  if  possible,  started  on  the  run  to  get  within 
hailing  distance  of  Brainard.  He  was  speedily  over- 
taken by  Frederick  and  the  dog-team,  the  dogs  going 
at  a  fast  gallop,  and  Frederick  laying  his  whip  about 
them  in  all  directions.  Lockwood  proceeded  to  find 
some  place  to  get  ashore,  but  there  was  none,  except 
at  a  little  promontory  of  rubble-ice,  in  front  of  the 
camp,  and  about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  tide- 
gauge.  Elsewhere  up  and  down,  as  far  as  they  could 
see,  was  a  continuous  belt  of  water,  every  moment  get- 
ting wider.  The  ice  had  a  motion  toward  the  east,  as 
well  as  out  from  tlie  shore,  and  thus  kept  in  position 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


241 


a  small  cake  of  ice  by  moans  of  which  Lock  wood  got 
on  the  promontory,  and  then  directed  the  movements 
of  the  dog-sledge  which  now  came  along.  On  the  way 
back  they  stopped  and  threw  the  pcmmican  on  the 
sledge  again,  the  ice  being  perfectly  smooth  and  hard. 
They  first  saved  the  dogs,  pulling  them  np  one  by  one, 
and  then,  the  little  ice-cake  seeming  to  keep  its  posi- 
tion, a  bridge  was  made  of  tho  sledge,  and  all  the 
pemmican  saved.  The  ice  continued  to  move  out 
from  the  shore,  until  up  and  down  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  was  a  wide  belt  of  open  water.  Before 
they  left,  it  was  in  many  places  between  one  and  two 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  the  ice  at  the  same  time 
moving  toward  the  east.  They  got  ashore  at  eleven 
o'clock,  and  by  12.30  the  sledge-tracks,  which  had 
been  opposite  the  tidal  rod,  were  opposite  the  camp, 
a  distance  of  two  hundred  yards.  While  the  sledges 
were  being  packed,  a  seal  made  his  appearance  and 
eyed  the  party  curiously.  The  guns  were  not  con- 
venient, and  he  was  not  disturbed.  Many  water- 
clouds  were  seen  to  the  north  at  this  time,  and  the 
whole  polar  pack  seemed  to  be  on  the  move.  They 
were  all  grateful  for  getting  out  of  the  trap  so  well. 
Referring  to  their  living  on  the  moving  floe,  Fred- 
erick made  signs  to  suggest  their  eating  the  dog- 
pemmican  ;  certainly  this  would  have  lasted  a  long 
time  had  they  not  frozen  to  death  in  the  mean  while, 
which  they  would  have  done  very  soon,  as  they  were 
without  :!eeping-bags  or  alcohol. 

There  seemed  nothing  to  do  but  turn  about  and  go 
home,  and  yet  Lockwood  was  extremely  averse  to  the 


- 1  '1 

m 


.{, 


n 


I 


: 


> 

1  ■     ' 


'«<iS   I 


lli 


t; 


242 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


idea.  The  overlaid  route  looked  we^x-iiigh  impossi- 
ble, or  somethijig  at  ieast  that  could  not  be  accom- 
plished in  time  to  allow  them  to  reach  the  farthest  of 
1883.  Lockwood's  orders  directed  his  return  in  case 
this  contingency  should  arise,  as  well  as  in  case  of  any 
"signs  of  the  disintegration  of  the  polar  pack,"  or 
in  case  he  became  incapacitated  for  rapid  travel.  IIo 
walked  up  and  down  and  thought  of  it  for  some  time, 
both  Brainard  and  Jewell  having  declared  that  there 
was  nothing  else  to  do  but  return.  At  12.30,  the 
teams  being  all  ready,  they  turned  toward  the  west. 
As  they  came  near  the  slopes  of  Drift  Point  a  verj 
disagreeable  south  wind  with  drifting  snow  was  met, 
which  continuing  to  get  worse,  their  cheeks  and  noses 
began  to  suffer,  and  therefore,  at  about  two  o'clock, 
they  halted  and  pitched  the  tents,  driving  the  pins 
first,  and  raising  the  tents  afterward.  By  this  time 
it  was  blowing  almost  a  gale,  and,  the  thermometer 
being  very  low,  the  tent  was  tied  up,  and  they  pre- 
pared to  weather  it  out,  Lockwood  having  a  severe 
headache,  which  added  to  his  tribulations. 

The  whole  of  April  5th  was  passed  in  the  sleeping- 
bags,  giving  all  hands  an  opportunity  to  meditate  on 
the  delights  of  an  Arctic  sledge-journey.  The  time 
was  spent  in  sleep,  or  in  trying  to  keep  v/arm  and 
sleep  at  the  same  time.  During  the  day  Lockwood 
counted  up  the  exact  number  of  rations  remaining, 
and,  still  bent  on  his  dream  of  the  eighty-fourth  de- 
gree, calculated  that,  if  they  could  get  around  over- 
land to  Rest  Gorge  in  five  days,  they  could  yet  go 
to  the  farthest  of  1882  and  a  few  days  beyond,  pro- 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


213 


vided  the  traveling  was  not  worse  than  the  previ- 
ous year.  lie  announced  his  intention  accordingly. 
Brainard  and  Jewell  were  not  hopeful,  but  willing  to 
do  their  best  in  attempting  it.  One  great  obstacle 
was  the  lame  and  crippled  condition  of  both  Jewell 
and  Ellis.  The  signs  of  disintegration  in  the  polar 
pack,  Lock  wood  proposed  to  disregard. 

The  wind  continuing  to  blow,  it  was  noon  before 
they  started  off  toward  the  east  to  reconnoitre  ;  but, 
prior  to  this,  Lockwood  went  up  on  the  high  ground 
back  of  the  tents  and  saw  a  great  deal  of  open  water. 
Some  time  after  starting,  he  stopped  t  lie  sledges  and 
went  up  on  another  elevation  to  reconnoitre,  feeling 
that,  if  he  went  on  and  anything  happened,  his  re- 
sponsibility would  be  heavy,  from  his  disobedience  of 
orders.  From  this  point  could  be  seen  a  belt  of  open 
water  running  along  shore,  in  both  directions,  for 
miles.  In  no  place  was  it  less  than  two  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  from  that  it  increased  to  four  and  five  hun- 
dred. Westward  from  the  vicinity  of  Eepulse  Harbor, 
it  extended  in  a  lead,  growing  wider  and  wider,  all  the 
way  across  the  straits,  apparently  to  the  vicinity  of 
Lincoln  Bay,  where  it  seemed  to  swing  round  to  the 
north.  This  lead  was  upward  of  five  miles  wide  in  the 
middle.  Whether  there  were  other  leads  south  of  it, 
between  Newman  Bay  and  Beechy,  could  not  be  de- 
termined. In  the  polar  pack  to  the  north  were  sev- 
eral small  leads  and  a  great  many  dark  water-clouds. 
The  ice  was  again  noticed  moving  rapidly  to  the 
northeast.  Beyond  Cape  Bryant,  ho  supposed  the  ice 
to  be  intact,  as  in  1883,  but  around  the  cape,  north 


hi  ^ 


r1 


244 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


i  M? 


f>:!l 


'ilS 


1  i 


of  Britannia,  they  had  then  traveled  on  new  ice,  and, 
going  out  on  the  polar  pack  at  Cape  Dodge,  just  this 
side  of  the  farthest,  had  traveled  on  it  for  several 
miles.  The  condition  of  this  route  now  could  not  be 
known,  of  course,  but  what  they  had  seen  made  the 
prospect  very  unfavor.'ible.  The  signs  of  disintegra- 
tion were  unmistakablt.,  and  Lockwood  therefore  de- 
termined to  turn  back  once  again.  Near  this  spot  he 
remarked  a  very  curious  stratified  floeberg.  It  was 
about  forty  feet  high,  and  a  dozen  or  more  horizontal 
lines  were  very  plain.  The  weather  had  now  cleared 
up  beautifully,  and  they  were  soon  at  Repulse  Har- 
bor. Here  they  left  a  short  notice  of  their  defeat  in 
an  English  cairn,  and,  taking  Beaumont*s  sextant, 
the  English  flag,  etc.,  on  the  sledge,  continued  on 
their  way  to  the  mouth  of  Gap  Valley,  where  they 
went  into  camp,  and  remained  long  enough  to  take  a 
set  of  tidal  observations. 

The  observations  here  were  very  satisfactory,  and 
were  kept  up  by  Jewell  for  more  than  twelve  hours. 
Brainard,  with  Ellis  and  the  two  teams  and  drivers, 
advanced  the  heaviest  part  of  the  loads  en  route  nine 
miles  to  the  shore  of  Newman  Bay.  Lockwood  and 
Jewell  remained  in  camp,  and  the  former  found  it 
extremely  monotonous,  having  nothing  to  do  but  to 
prepare  supper.  The  only  way  to  keep  warm  was  by 
constantly  moving  about,  and,  as  a  cold  wind  was 
blowing,  this  in  itself  was  not  comfortable.  The  ob- 
servations were  very  trying  to  Jewell,  continued  as 
they  were  long  after  the  rest  were  in  their  bags. 

On  the  8th  of  April,  they  suffered  more  than  usual 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


245 


with  cold.  The  sloeping-bags,  frozen  stiff,  wore  a 
long  time  in  thawing  out  after  they  got  into  them. 
Dark  water-clouds  were  seen  along  the  northern  hori- 
zon, although  elsewhere  the  sky  was  bright  and  clear. 
One,  particularly  noticeable,  to  the  northeast  and  near 
shore,  looked  like  a  huge  cliff  in  a  fog.  They  also 
noticed  a  movement  in  an  ice-hillock  some  distance 
off  the  coast.  It  changed  its  angle  to  the  east  dur- 
ing their  stay,  and  suggested  open  water  across  their 
route  before  reaching  Cape  Beechy.  They  left  camp 
at  ten,  and  found  the  traveling  very  good — rather  im- 
proved by  the  late  storm.  Jewell  and  Ellis  began  to 
suffer  again,  r.nd  the  latter  was  carried  on  the  sledge 
several  miles,  the  loads  being  very  light.  They  soon 
reached  the  mid^He  of  the  divide,  and  then  the  loads 
left  on  the  shore  of  Newman  Bay,  making  very  fast 
time  through  the  gorge,  though  the  sledges  had  to  bo 
let  down  the  snow-slopes  and  drifts  by  ropes.  After 
stopping  some  time  to  take  on  everything,  they  pro- 
ceeded slowly  and  reached  the  Boat  Camp,  and  soon 
after  Cape  Sumner,  where  they  stopped  to  make  tidal 
observations,  Lockwood  and  Brainard  remarking  what 
a  particularly  dreary  and  dismal  place  it  was,  and  won- 
dering if  they  should  ever  see  it  again.  It  brought 
to  mind  the  trials  and  tribulations  of  the  previous 
spring.  Yet,  in  spite  of  those  trials,  the  novelty  of 
everything,  and  the  imperfect  equipment,  that  expe- 
dition was  a  success  ;  and  this  one,  notwithstanding 
their  experience  and  the  completeness  of  their  ar- 
rangements, a  failure.  "  Oft  expectation  fails  where 
most  it  promises."    Lockwood  felt  thankful  that  they 


•i.; 


i  ■ 


if 


I'  "J 


h 


246 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


w\ 


I    i 


had  escaped  from  the  ice-pack,  and  from  passing  the 
forty-eight  hours  of  the  recent  storm  upon  it,  living 
on  the  pemmican  until  finally  frozen  to  death ;  but 
the  sense  of  defeat  was  predominant.  They  passed  a 
tedious,  cold  afternoon,  but  enjoyed  a  good  dinner, 
having  now  an  abundance  of  rations  of  all  kinds.  It 
warmed  them  up  and  put  new  life  in  all.  Jewell  saw, 
during  his  observations,  a  white  owl  flying  oveiiiijad 
toward  the  east. 

The  morning  of  tlie  10th  was  bright,  clear,  and 
calm.  They  noticed  a  stratum  of  misty  clouds,  sup- 
posed to  be  water-clouds,  hanging  along  the  foot  of 
the  clills  on  the  Grinnell  Land  shore,  and  extending 
from  above  r^ape  Beechy  northward  indefinitely.  After 
passing  through  several  bands  of  rubble-ice  with  great 
labor,  and  yet  without  having  to  double  up,  they 
found  the  tracks  made  on  the  outward  journey,  and 
followed  them  continuously.  This  saved  a  great  deal 
of  time  in  chopping  and  picking  out  a  road.  About 
noon  they  suddenly  encountered  a  very  cold  south 
wind.  It  seemed  to  come  out  of  Devil's  Gap,  Polaris 
Promontory,  and  as  usual  carried  along  ti  lot  of  fine 
drifted  snow,  continuing  during  the  day.  Their  heavy 
loads  made  the  dogs  travel  at  a  slow  walk,  otherwise, 
no  doubt,  both  Jewell  and  Ellis  must  have  been  left 
behind  or  carried  on  the  sledges.  They  went  into 
camp  on  a  hard  snow-drift. 

After  an  uncomfortable  night,  with  the  mercury 
at  45°  below  zero,  they  left  camp  and  followed  the  old 
trail,  as  on  the  previous  day,  jolting  along  with  little 
difiiculty  in  the  rubble-ice,  the  dogs  doing  admirably. 


RESUMING  A  DESPERATE  STRUGGLE. 


247 


bracing  themselves  to  the  effort  at  bad  places,  like  so 
many  men. 

They  reached  Depot  B  at  2.50  p.  m.,  and  pitched 
the  tents,  this  making  the  tenth  time  that  Lockwood 
had  crossed  the  straits  above  Fort  Conger. 

The  traveling  was  tedious  and  slow,  but  they 
reached  Depot  A  at  noon,  stopping  only  half  an  hour, 
and  arrived  at  Fort  Conger  in  the  afternoon.  Ev- 
erything there  was  quiet  as  the  grave.  "General 
Grant "  was  the  only  one,  man  or  beast,  that  knew  of 
their  approach  and  came  out  to  meet  them.  Even 
when  they  passed  the  windows  and  reached  the  door, 
no  one  saw  or  heard  them,  and  Lockwood  walked  in 
on  Lieutenant  Greely  like  a  ghost,  and  simply  said  : 
**  Well,  I'm  back  again ;  open  water  at  Black  Horn 
Cliffs."  Some  of  his  further  reflections  were  to  this 
effect : 

"  Do  I  take  up  my  pen  to  write  the  humiliating 
word,  failed?  I  do,  and  bitter  is  the  dose,  although 
it  is  now  a  week  since  first  I  tasted  it.  My  return 
here,  the  inaction  after  two  and  a  half  weeks  of  ac- 
tivity, and  the  monotony,  not  to  mention  the  dis- 
appointment of  Lieutenant  Greely,  make  it  fresh  as 
when  first  mixed.  I  tried  yesterday  and  to-day  to 
induce  Lieutenant  Greely  to  let  me  go  out  again,  but 
he  says  this  is  our  last  year  here,  that  I  still  have 
last  year's  work  to  fall  back  on,  and,  above  all,  that 
it  is  not  prudent.  I  have  a  scheme  by  which  I  could 
travel  four  days  beyond  the  farthest  of  '82,  a\id  get 
back  here  in  forty-four  days,  leaving  April  21st  and 
returning  June  3d — that  is,  provided  an    overland 


: 


I    -! 


■I 


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, 

t 

1 

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4 ;  1  i 

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t        i  0    .'    :   M 


248 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


route  around  the  Black  Horn  Cliffs  can  be  I'ound,  and 
provided  the  conditions  beyond  are  no  worse  than  last 
year.  Mj  proposal  was  to  take  the  two  teams,  the  two 
Esquimaux  and  Brainard,  five  sacks  of  pemmican, 
0i>e  tent,  two  sleeping-bags,  etc.,  and  forty-four  days* 
rat'ons  for  the  party.  The  five  sacks  would  last  the 
dogs  twenty-three  days,  after  which  about  eight  dogs 
of  the  twenty  would  be  killed  one  by  one,  and  thus 
the  remainder  fed  on  the  return.  We  should  have  to 
make  long  marches,  it  is  true.  Perhaps  the  refusal  is 
for  the  best,  and  I  still  have  the  country  southwest  of 
the  head  of  Archer  Fiord  to  operate  in ;  but  I  am  re- 
luctant to  give  up  this  scheme  for  passing  83°  24'.'* 
Everything  at  the  station  was  very  quiet,  and  much 
as  when  they  left,  except  that  a  party  had  been  sent 
for  the  boat  at  Thank-God  Harbor. 


XV. 


^i 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 

While  the  disappointment  which  attended  the 
late  expedition  was  very  great,  it  did  not  make  Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood  unhappy  or  morose.  He  was  only 
conyinced,  perhaps,  that  when  the  ice  and  snow  and 
storms,  minions  of  tlie  Nortli  Pole,  undertake  to  play 
the  game  of  April  fool,  they  do  it  very  effectually. 
The  absence  of  so  many  of  his  companions  from  the 
station  had  a  depressing  effect  upon  his  spirits,  but 
as  usual  he  prepared  the  report  of  his  last  journey, 
and  duly  submitted  it  to  Lieutenant  Greely,  all  the 
while  suffering  from  the  severe  rheumatic  pains 
which  invariably  followed  his  exposure  to  severe  cold. 
Many  of  the  men  were  complaining,  and  the  weather 
outlook  was  not  encouraging,  and  yet,  after  consulting 
with  Lieutenant  Greely,  Lockwood  fixed  his  mind 
upon  an  exploration  up  and  beyond  the  Archer  Fiord. 
His  idea  was  to  go  west,  at  least  as  far  as  the  English 
had  gone  along  the  northern  shore  of  Grinnell  Land, 
feeling  that  he  could  hardly  fail  of  finding  something 
of  interest,  and  would  perhaps  make  important  dis- 
coveries. Indeed,  he  might  be  able  to  determine  the 
coast-line  on  the  west.  As  usual,  he  wanted  the  com- 
pany of  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Esqrimaux  Frederick, 


*J 


n 


I  i 


250 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


and  would  be  content  with  one  dog-team  and  supplies 
for  thirty  days,  with  a  proper  supporting  party  for 
two  days. 

His  spirits  no^^'  becau;  3  1 3ttcr  than  they  had  been, 
caT'sed  chi^^fiy,  a^  bo  euiae.^Ljd,  by  the  glorious  sun  ; 
and  yet  he  could  nui  refnun  from  thinking  of  home, 
and  again  resorting  i\:  con^f  rt  to  his  old  family  let- 
ters, which  he  had  so  frequently  read  before. 

His  late  failure  had  been  a  disappointment  to  him- 
self as  well  as  to  Lieutenant  Greely  and  the  men. 
Some  of  them  seemed  down  in  the  mouth  and  gloomy, 
and,  by  way  of  cheering  them,  Lieutenant  Greely  in- 
formed them  that  he  intended  to  leave  Fort  Conger 
on  the  5th  of  August,  or  as  soon  thereafter  as  the  ice 
would  permit.  The  personal  relations  of  Dr.  Pavy 
and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  with  Lieutenant  Greely 
and  himself  were  not  what  they  should  have  been, 
and,  instead  of  getting  better,  thei'e  relations  seemed 
to  grow  worse.     Could  he  not  have  gone  abroad  on 


these  fatiguing 


T^  i 


to  escape  such  companion- 


ship, he  would  have  felt  utterly  desperate.  He  cer- 
tainly would  cheerfully  take  any  risks  during  the 
summer  than  longer  endure  the  existing  personal 
troubles.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  only  thought 
seemed  to  be  that  a  sledge-party  should  be  sent  down 
to  Littleton  Island  to  have  the  ship  leave  her  sup- 
plies at  Cape  Sabine,  therein  merely  reflecting  the 
latest  opinion  of  the  doctor. 

The  start  for  the  western  trip  was  made  on  the 
25th  of  April,  1883,  with  two  sledges,  each  drawn  by 
ten  dogs  and  carrying  about  one  thousand  pounds  of 


Across  GRINNELL  L^LND. 


251 


rations  ^r  thirty  days.  Tl'  y  moved  along  the  south 
sit!  of  the  harbor  over  very  soft  and  deep  snow, 
through  which  the  dogs  labored,  yet  made  tlieir  way 
wilh  full  loads.  On  getting  near  ''Sun  Land,"  how- 
ever, the  snow  became  abominable,  and  the  traveling 
was  as  bad  as  they  had  ever  experienced.  After  try- 
ing for  some  time  to  go  ahead,  but  sticking  incessant- 
ly, tney  turned  short  off  to  the  left,  and  after  a  ;; 'e^?"* 
deal  of  work  reached  the  shore,  Brainard  en  tou'^' 
falling  down  a  crack,  and  Lock  wood  feeling  coTU'Luoed 
that  his  feet  were  frozen,  as  all  sensation  iiad  ^^ft 
them. 

Reaching  Black  Knob  Point,  where  thei  >'as  a 
tent,  they  found  it  blown  down.  After  some  delay  in 
repitching  it,  they  started  overland  toward  Sun  Bay, 
through  soft  and  deep  snow,  and  soon  afterward 
reached  Stony  Cape,  where  they  encamped,  all  the 
party  being  very  much  fatigued. 

Resuming  their  march,  they  found  the  snow  not 
particularly  deep,  but  with  a  light  crust,  not  quite  hard 
enough  to  bear,  which  made  the  traveling  fatiguing. 
They  stopped  to  rest  every  hour,  the  weather  being 
really  too  warm  for  comfort,  so  that  Lockwood  act- 
ually longed  for  the  cold  and  hard  work  he  had  ex- 
perienced in  north  Greenland.  They  reached  Kep- 
pel  Head  in  three  hours,  and  found  that  Mr.  Keppel 
had  a  very  stony  face,  and  not  a  handsome  head  by 
any  means,  being  a  lofty  promontory  and  precipitous 
mass  of  rocks,  very  grand  and  imposing.  In  two 
hours  more  they  reached  Hillock  Depot,  and  stopped 
to  get  some  corned  beef  left  there  by  Lockwood  in 


J 


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252 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


June  of  the  preceding  year,  the  English  rations  left 
there  having  all  been  eaten  by  foxes. 

On  reaching  Depot  Point,  they  transferred  every- 
thing from  the  supporting  sledge  and  sent  it  back  to 
the  station,  afterward  getting  along  with  the  whole 
load  very  well.  The  high,  steep  cliils  on  their  right 
threw  their  shadows  almost  across  the  fiord,  and  kept 
them  out  of  the  glare  of  the  sun  moving  along  the 
northern  horizon.  Fox-tracks  constantly  appeared. 
These  tracks  were  found  everywhere,  and  yet  it  was 
but  seldom  that  the  animals  themselves  were  seen ; 
and  in  thinking  of  their  habits,  Lockwood  wondered 
if  they  laid  up  in  store  their  surplus  food  against  the 
days  of  want.  A  tame  fox  kept  at  the  station  would 
always  c^ke  what  was  offered  ;  but,  when  the  ice-wall 
was  pulled  down,  a  large  supply  was  found  which  Mr. 
lieuben  had  abandoned  on  regaining  his  liberty. 

Greatly  enjoying  the  pleasant  weather,  after  find- 
ing some  Esquimaux  relics,  and  making  a  vain  effort 
to  surmount  a  glacier,  they  finally  reached  the  head 
of  Ella  Bay,  where,  after  some  delay  in  finding  fresh- 
water ice,  and  snow  hard  and  deep  enough  to  pitch 
the  tent,  they  went  into  camj).  Lockwood  and  Fred- 
erick then  took  the  team  and  empty  sledge,  and  pro- 
ceeded up  a  little  water-course  a  few  miles.  Found 
less  ice  and  more  stones  than  they  expected,  but,  hav- 
ing ascertained  that  they  could  advance  up  the  valley 
with  some  extra  labor,  returned.  Numerous  fox, 
ptarmigan,  hare,  and  musk-ox  tracks  were  seen,  but 
no  game.  Brainard  became  permanent  cook,  as  the 
difficult  business  of   making  observations  devolved 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


253 


entirely  on  Lock  wood.     Tho  cliiTs  about  hero  wero 
grand,  at  least  three  thousand  feet  high. 

Lockwood  was  disappointed  in  gettin^^  equal  alti- 
tudes of  tho  sun  for  longitude  (time),  tho  lofty 
cliffs  shutting  out  tho  orj  of  light  on  each  side  of  tho 
meridian  ;  and  yot  he  had  camped  away  out,  a  mile  or 
two  from  the  cliffs,  in  order  to  avoid  this  difficulty. 
This  was  one  of  the  annoyances  he  had  frequently 
exi)erienced.  After  lying  awako  for  hours,  or  taking 
his  sleep  by  sliort  cat-naps  with  one  eye  open,  and 
running  out  in  order  to  catch  the  sun  at  the  right 
time,  and  all  this  after  a  tiresome  march,  it  was  very 
provoking  to  have  "  some  miserable  cliff"  lift  its  ugly 
head  right  in  his  way.  To  get  the  local  time  wdly  it 
was  necessary  to  take  the  sun's  altitude  some  hours 
before  noon,  and  then  catch  the  precise  instant  of  tho 
same  altitude  in  the  afternoon,  the  sun  being  nearly 
on  the  meridian  at  a  time  midway  between  the  times 
of  the  two  observations.  This  middle  time  needed 
certain  corrections,  and  then,  the  watch  or  chronome- 
ter being  regulated  to  Greenwich  or  Washington  time, 
the  difference  of  time,  or  longitude,  was  known.  The 
little  streams  occupying  the  valleys  (or  caflons,  as  they 
should  be  called)  of  this  Arctic  country  are  utterly  in- 
significant compared  with  the  depressions  themselves. 
A  great,  ditch-like  break  in  the  country,  from  two 
to  five  miles  wide  and  ten  to  thirty  miles  long,  the 
sides  of  which  are  vertical  walls  rising  thousands  of 
feet,  may  be  the  bed  of  a  little  brook  that  in  sum- 
mer-time can  be  readily  waded,  and  at  other  times  of 
the  year  can  hardly  be  seen  under  the  universal  man- 


• 


i  i 


■5  <T 


.^p^'ii 


i 


ill  I 


254 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


tic  of  snow.  It  was  one  of  thcso  tlmt  they  followed 
in  its  windings.  Here  and  there  they  would  encoun- 
ter very  deep  snow,  and  the  sledge-runners  would 
stick  on  the  beds  of  stone,  requiring  all  their  efforts 
to  get  under  way  again.  In  about  an  hour  they 
came  to  a  long,  level  area,  indicating  Lake  Kather- 
ine,  which  Lockwood  had  previously  discovered  and 
named  when  up  near  here  in  the  launch,  and  then 
the  view  up  the  valley  was  unbroken  as  far  as  the 
glacier.  Its  terminal  face  could  be  clearly  seen,  look- 
ing like  a  little  wall  of  ice  three  or  four  feet  high, 
upon  which  one  could  readily  step.  Back  of  this  the 
surface  gently  ascended  until  lost  in  the  snow-cov- 
ered mountain-side  fur  beyond.  The  whole  thing 
looked  like  a  mass  of  barber's  lather,  1  jwing  slowly 
down  a  deep  ditch.  For  some  hours,  Lockwood  and 
Brainard  both  thought  there  would  be  no  trouble  in 
getting  sledge  and  dogs  up  the  little  fajc  to  the  un- 
dulating and  gradually  ascending  surface  beyond. 
After  proceeding  some  distance  on  the  lake.  Lock- 
wood  stopped  the  sledge,  and  with  Brainard  went  off 
to  the  right,  ascending  a  low  ridge  that  ran  parallel 
with  the  lake  and  between  it  and  the  high  cliffs  on 
the  north  side  of  the  valley.  They  found  the  top 
to  be  four  hundred  feet  high,  and  beyond  was  a  wide 
ravine  running  down  to  the  bay.  There  they  saw  the 
tracks  of  three  musk-oxen  that  had  evidently  passed 
along  on  their  way  toward  the  fiord ;  also  many  tracks 
of  foxes,  ptarmigan,  lemming,  and  hare.  Probably, 
the  chief  reason  for  seeing  so  few  animals,  though  so 
many  tracks,  was  that  the  birds  and  animals  (except- 


ACROSS  ORLVXELL  LAND. 


255 


ing  the  musk-ox)  arc  all  pure  white  in  color  for  three 
fourths  of  the  year.  One  might  look  at  a  hare  or 
ptarmigan  a  few  yards  away  and  yet  not  see  it.  The 
lake  called  Katherine  was  found  to  bo  three  or  four 
miles  long.  At  its  farther  end,  the  ground  was  quite 
bare  of  snow  in  places,  and  everywhere  the  snow  was 
hard  and  thin,  so  that  they  went  along  very  rapidly. 
Every  half-hour,  they  thought,  would  bring  them  to 
the  glacier,  but  the  longer  they  traveled,  tlic  farther 
the  glacier  seemed  to  move  away.  When  only  a  short 
walk  from  the  glacier,  as  Lockwood  thought,  ho  stop- 
ped the  sledge,  and  with  Brainard  went  on  ahead. 
The  face  seemed  much  higher  than  they  had  sup- 
posed it,  but  it  was  only  after  walking  a  mile  that 
they  realized  what  it  was — a  wall  of  ice,  straight  up 
and  down,  stretching  a  mile  across  the  valley  from 
side  to  side,  and  nearly  two  hundred  feet  high. 

After  surveying  this  wonderful  object,  they  re- 
turned to  the  sledge  and  pitched  the  tent,  seeing  no 
way  of  proceeding  farther  ;  and  there  they  remained 
a  day  or  two  to  get  a  good  look  at  the  surroundings 
before  deciding  upon  the  proper  course  to  pursue.  A 
decided  fall  in  the  temperature  was  quite  noticeable, 
due,  doubtless,  to  the  proximity  of  the  glacier.  They 
got  to  sleep  ai  ^r  a  while,  and  during  the  day  took  a 
good  rest,  getting  up  in  tlie  afternoon.  The  twain 
went  again  to  reconnoitre,  leaving  Frederick  to  hunt, 
or  amuse  himself  in  any  other  way  ho  chose.  They 
went  to  the  glacier-wall  again,  and  followed  along  its 
foot  to  the  south  side  of  the  valley.  This  wall  was 
beautiful  and  imposing.     From  the  top,  one  third 


'*■  1 

in 


^    'J 


!»■«:»  ■yi 


256 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


of  the  way  downward,  the  ice  was  of  a  charminj^ 
green  color,  and  looked  like  glass;  below  this  came  a 
white  surface,  in  whidh  small  stones  were  numerous 
imbedded  in  the  ice,  with  here  and  there  streaks  of  a 
brownish  color,  like  chocolate  ice-cream  mixed  with 
■vanilla.  A  close  approach  showed  that  it  was  earth. 
At  the  foot  of  the  wall,  probably  concealing  a  "termi- 
nal moraine,"  was  an  undulating  bank  of  snow,  and 
oyer  the  upper  edge  of  the  wall  hung  wreaths  of 
drifted  snow  that  looked  like  the  icing  of  cake.  The 
ground  for  some  distance  out  was  strewed  with  blocks 
of  ice  and  stone  of  all  imaginable  shapes  and  sizes. 
On  reaching  the  corner  of  the  glacier,  a  similar  wall 
was  seen  extending  up  along  its  flank,  abutting  against 
an  inclined  plain  of  immense  bowlders  and  masses  of 
rock,  the  debris  from,  the  cliffs  above.  The  angle 
thus  formed  was  full  of  large  blocks  of  ice,  many 
recently  detached  from  the  wall  of  ice.  Traveling 
along  the  flank  proved  so  difficult  that  they  took  to 
the  incline  and  scrair.bled  for  some  time  over  immense 
masses  of  rock  and  snow,  often  across  deep  cracks 
and  openings  concealed  by  the  snow  covering  them. 
After  gaining  an  altitude  of  several  hundred  feet,  they 
reached  aomething  like  a  terrace  formation,  from 
which  they  overlooked  all  the  lower  part  of  the  gla- 
cier. It  presented  an  undulating  and  gradually  ris- 
ing surface,  extending  up  the  valley  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles,  or  more.  Just  opposite  to  them.,  a  branch 
glacier  came  in  from  the  north  through  a  gap  in  the 
mighty  cliffs.  The  slope  of  this  branch  in  places 
wrs  very  precipitous,  showing  great  rents  and  fis- 


^. 


irminj^ 
came  a 
mcroiis 
ks  of  a 
d  with 
earth. 
'  termi- 
>w,  and 
atbs  of 
}.     The 
L  blocks 
d  sizes. 
lar  wall 
against 
asses  of 
je  angle 
),  many 
raveling 
took  to 
mmense 
cracks 
y  them, 
et,  they 
from 
the  gla- 
lally  ris- 
twenty 
branch 
p  in  the 
L  places 
and  fis- 


ACROSS  GRIXNELL  LiXD. 


257 


Bures.  The  surface  of  the  glacier  wa.>  free  from 
snow,  except,  licre  and  there,  in  what  seemed  little 
depressions  in  the  ice.  There  WaS  no  way  of  climb- 
ing upon  the  glacier,  mncli  less  of  getting  the  sledge 
and  dogs  up.  It  would  simply  have  been  ascending 
a  precipice  of  ice  two  hundred  feet  high.  To  get  up- 
on it  had  been  their  original  intention,  although  Fred- 
erick went  through  a  pantomime  at  the  time,  which 
they  did  not  exactly  understand,  expressing  how  a 
sledge  would  go  faster  and  faster,  and  finally  shoot 
over  the  edge  like  a  waterfall.  Whether  he  ever  had 
had  such  an  experience  in  Greenland  he  did  not  say, 
but  he  would  never  have  had  it  more  than  once.  See- 
ing no  way  of  getting  on  or  along  the  glacier,  except 
with  the  greatest  labor,  Lockwood  proposed  to  Brain- 
ard  that  they  sliould  ascend  the  cliffs  and  get  an  out- 
look from  the  top.  It  did  not  seem  very  far  to  the 
crest,  and  accordingly  they  started,  but  a  more  severe 
cHmh  they  had  never  had,  and  hoped  never  to  have 
again.  It  was  a  very  steep  incline  of  rocks  and  snow 
all  the  way  up.  When  the  barometer  showed  an  ele- 
vation of  twenty-five  hundred  feet,  Lockwood  found 
himself  on  a  ledge  of  rocks  from  which  he  could  get 
neither  up  nor  down  for  some  time.  Beneath  him 
was  a  steep  surface  of  frozen  snow,  falling  on  which 
he  would  have  gone  down-hill  like  an  avalanche. 
Brainard  had  inclined  more  to  the  left,  and,  by  fol- 
lowing the  side  of  a  steep  gully  full  of  ice,  had  got 
ahead  of  him  and  out  of  sight. 

Finally,  Lockwood  reached  what  had  long  seemed 
the  summit,  and  stopped  to  rest.     Presently  Brainard 


'  in 

'  5<1 


•   f 


i 


)  ' 


(    y 


258 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


came  in  sight,  and  said  the  top  was  about  a  mile  oU. 
They  then  started  together,  walked  over  a  gradually 
ascending  surface  like  the  top  of  a  vast  dome,  covered 
with  hard  frozen  snow  and  ice,  and  very  smooth  and 
slippery,  giving  them  frequent  falls,  and  at  4  A.  m. 
reached  the  summit  and  viewed  the  country  around  for 
many  miles.  Being  cold,  they  did  not  stay  long — only 
long  enough  to  take  bearings  by  compass  of  bovernl 
distant  mountains  to  the  south,  snow  and  ice-clad 
peaks  with  many  glaciers  between.  To  tlie  west  the 
country  was  less  broken,  and  seemingly  was  a  lofty 
surface  of  snow  and  ice.  They  traced  the  glacier  near 
their  camp  about  twenty  miles  toward  the  west-south- 
west, when  it,  and  the  valley  containing  it,  came  to 
an  end  in  a  high  mountain-ridge.  This  wonderful 
feature  of  nature  possessed  great  interest  for  Lock- 
wood.  The  tae  of  the  barometer  gave  an  elevation 
of  the  mountain  or  cliff  on  which  they  stood  of  5,050 
feet  above  the  sea-level.  As  their  tent  was  only  three 
hundred  feet  above  tide-water,  their  climb  had  not 
been  a  small  one.  They  descended  tlie  mountain 
readily,  although  they  had  to  use  hands  as  well  as 
feet  all  the  way  down,  in  some  places  carrying  with 
them  a  land-slide  of  earth  and  stones. 

They  were  constantly  deceived  as  to  distances  and 
heights.  A  headland  on  the  fiord  looked  but  a  half- 
hour's  travel  away,  yet  it  took  two  or  three  hours  to 
reach  it.  So  these  cliffs,  which  looked  from  below 
like  an  easy  climb,  proved  the  highest  and  steepest  in 
that  benighted  region.  They  got  back  to  the  tent 
after  thirteen  hours  of  as  hard  work  as  they  had  yet 


:i; 


>^^ 


ACROSS  GRIXNELL  LAND. 


259 


ile  off. 
idually 
sovcred 
>th  and 

t  A.  M. 

and  for 
f— only 
bcvoral 
ce-clad 
est  the 
a  lofty 
er  near 
;-soutli- 
ame  to 
nderful 
p  Lock- 
evation 
f  5,050 
y  three 
lad  not 
Duntain 
well  as 
ig  with 

ces  and 
a  half- 

lours  to 

below 

pest  in 

he  tent 
lad  yet 


experienced,  and  completely  tired  out.  They  took 
meridian  observation  for  latitude,  and  then  enjoyed 
a  hearty  meal  of  ptarmigan  killed  by  Frederick  dur- 
ing their  absence. 

On  the  2d  of  May,  tliey  left  their  beds  and  had 
breakfast  at  about  midnight.  Found  it  snowing  and 
unpleasant.  Saw  little  else  to  do  tlian  retrace  their 
steps  to  Ella  Bay,  and  thence  proceed  around  to  Bea- 
trix Bay  and  try  to  get  inland  from  that  place  ;  spent 
the  day,  however,  in  farther  reconnoitring,  as  Lock- 
wood  did  not  wish  to  leave  before  night.  Brainard 
went  over  to  the  northeast  corner  of  the  glacier,  but 
found  no  way  of  proceeding  in  that  direction,  and, 
after  carefully  studying  the  surroundings,  Lockwood 
could  see  no  means  of  getting  on  even  with  packs. 
Spent  most  of  the  day  in  taking  observations,  etc. 
Occasionally  they  heard  a  noise  like  thunder,  caused 
by  the  falling  in  of  sections  of  the  great  wall  before 
them,  more  formidable  than  any  to  be  seen  in  China. 
The  ground  at  the  foot  of  the  wall  was  only  the  bed 
of  a  stream  with  blocks  of  ice,  and  here  and  there 
a  big  bowlder.  Everything  being  packed  up  and 
ready,  they  started  down  the  stream  again,  examin- 
ing several  deep  breaks  in  the  cliffs  to  see  if  there 
was  any  prospect  of  flanking  the  glacier  by  means  of 
one  of  them,  but  without  success.  There  was  no  way 
of  getting  up  even  a  short  distance,  except  by  leaving 
dogs  and  sledge  beliind  and  taking  to  the  knapsacks, 
which  was  not  then  to  be  thou^jht  of. 

They  got  along  without  event  and  reached  their 
old  camp  after  midnight,  i)itching  the  tc  i;  farther 


Jl 


I  \ 


260 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


•is       ' 


r\' 


toTard  the  north  side,  in  order  to  see  the  sun  when 
ready  to  take  observations.  Shortly  after  getting  in. 
Frederick  laid  his  whij)  down  for  an  instant,  and  the 
promising  dog  Barker  gobbled  up  all  except  about  six 
inches  of  the  butt-end  in  much  less  time  than  it  takes 
to  mention  the  fact.  The  praises  of  Barker  had  been 
sung  ever  since  his  birth,  and  this  was  only  one  of 
many  of  the  tricks  by  which  ho  proved  his  proficiency. 
Frederick  quickly  made  a  new  lash,  however,  and 
gave  it  to  Barker  on  the  next  march. 

On  the  3d  of  May,  as  they  pushed  their  way  on- 
ward, they  took  a  series  of  angles  and  paced  distances 
to  get  at  the  height  of  the  tremendous  cliffs  near  at 
hand.  The  result  gave  an  altitude  of  forty-one  hun- 
dred feet,  which  was  almost  vertical,  the  debris  ex- 
tending a  third  of  the  way  up,  and  not  being  quite  so 
steep.  They  then  followed  the  north  shore  to  Kecord 
Point,  and  thence  took  a  straight  course  for  the  head 
of  Beatrix  Bay.  The  cliffs  were  so  grand  that  Lock- 
wood  never  tired  of  gazing  at  them,  wondering  how 
they  were  first  formed,  and  thinking  what  tremen- 
dous force  of  nature  had  scoopec^  out  the  awful  chasm 
that  comprised  the  fiord.  These  walls,  high  as  they 
were,  were  only  one  half  or  one  third  of  the  height  of 
the  great  snow-covered  elevations  back  of  and  beyond 
them. 

The  appreciation  of  the  grand  in  this  region  was 
Ai.',;q^'3nLi\  marred  by  fatigue  and  hunger,  and  so  it 
was  on  the  present  occasion,  Lockwood  being  glad 
SI  oagi'  ^^helJ-  at  hal^  past  one,  they  reached  the  head 
c.  .Btatrjj  Bay.     In  the  valley  which  they  now  en- 


11 


il.i 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


201 


tered,  tlioy  conCiUded  ^o  spend  another  day.  This 
one,  like  nearly  all  the  /alleys  in  this  region,  was 
simply  a  canon,  a  narrow,  ditch-like  formation,  walled 
in  by  steep,  high  cliffs.  It  was  occui)ied  as  usual  by  a 
very  insignificant  stream,  the  successor  of  some  mighty 
mass  of  water  or  ice  which  had  originally  hollowed 
out  the  great  gorge.  This,  and  the  head  of  Ella  Bay, 
were  the  farthest  reached  by  Lieutenant  Archer,  II. 
N.,  who  explored  the  fiord  named  for  him  to  tind  out 
whether  it  was  simply  a  fiord,  or  a  strait  or  channel, 
as  the  Polaris  people  had  asserted  it  to  be.  His  Mount 
Neville,  thirty-eight  hundred  feet  high,  Lockwood 
looked  for  in  vain  as  a  rc^'^.lin'  head  to  the  valley,  and 
finally  fixed  it  as  one  of  tiie  cliffs  which,  a  little  way 
back,  rose  slightly  higher,  to  a  dome.  Archer  was 
a  day  making  the  ascent.  I-ockwood  and  Brainnrd 
walked  about  four  miles  up  t  '.le  valley,  and  saw  its  ter- 
mination nearly  six  miles  bejond,  when  they  retraced 
their  course  to  camp,  greatly  disappoiiited  in  seeing  no 
game,  except  two  or  tliree  ptarmigans.  The  vail  v 
seemed  practicable  for  the  sledge,  and  so,  after  con?  .- 
ering  one  or  two  narrow  and  rocky  gorges  which  a  le 
in  from  the  west,  they  determined  to  follow  it  t  ts 
head  (north-northwest),  and  then  seek  farther  a  r  ate 
in  the  direction  desired,  which  was  west  or  sout  west. 
As  they  proceeded,  the  weather  became  briglit  and 
clear,  and  the  mercury  was  only  2°  below  zero.  They 
passed  up  the  valley,  leaving  in  cache  for  return  two 
days'  rations.  The  dogs  were  in  excellent  condition, 
and,  in  spite  of  stones,  went  along  very  well.  Thrrre 
was  some  ice  in  the  stream-bed,  and  of  snow  quite  an 


I(-"' 


ii 

I   I 

I'i 

i 

t 

&   J'     i 


';;ll 


2G2 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


abundance.  Above  the  farthest  reached  the  day  be- 
fore, a  small  lake  was  discovered — a  level  expanse  of 
saow  with  ice  beneath.  The  lower  part  of  the  valley 
had  two  distinct  elevations,  the  stream-bed,  a  very 
easy  grade,  forming  one,  while  along  tlie  stream  ex- 
tended broken  terraces,  termed  shoulders,  which  from 
the  cliils  projected  out  on  either  side,  sometimes  be- 
yond the  middle  of  the  valley,  which  was  from  one  to 
three  miles  wide.  The  breadth  decreased  as  they  as- 
cended, and  after  several  miles  it  was  but  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  wide.  At  this  point,  they  suddenly  came  to 
a  place  where  the  valley  seemed  to  run  out,  the  whole 
breadth  being  a  mass  of  rcoks.  Good  traveling  was 
seen  beyond,  however,  and,  after  working  an  hour 
doubling  up  (taking  half -load  at  a  time),  they  got 
over,  and  shortly  afterward  the  real  end  of  the  valley 
was  reached.  They  then  turned  short  off  to  the  north, 
and,  going  up  a  steep,  rocky  ravine,  about  midnight 
pitched  the  tent  for  further  survey  of  the  scene  on 
the  morrow. 

From  this  camp  a  low-looking  "hog-back"  was 
seen  to  close  in  the  head  of  the  valley.  They  deter- 
mined to  ascend  this  and  get  a  look  at  the  country,  it 
seeming  certain  that  the  Mff  sledge  could  go  no  far- 
ther. After  making  some  coffee  as  strong  as  it  could 
be  made,  and  drinking  about  a  quart  each,  to  bolster 
up  their  spirits,  the  twain  again  started  out,  leaving 
Frederick  to  crawl  into  his  sleeping-bag  or  keep  warm 
as  best  he  might.  They  proceeded  north  up  a  rocky 
ravine  about  a  mile,  and  then  came  to  a  level  plain 
stretching  northward,  some  half  a  dozen  miles  far- 


¥1 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


2G3 


ccne  on 


ther,  to  a  line  of  cliffs  running  across  which  seemed 
to  indicate  another  valley  or  lake.  To  the  riglit  were 
two  or  three  high,  dome-shaped  elevations,  and  to  the 
left  was  Mount  Easy,  so  called,  afterward,  on  ac- 
count of  the  ease  with  which  they  ascended  it,  and  in 
contradistinction  to  Mount  Ditticult,  the  last  they 
had  ascended.  They  soon  came  to  a  pretty  little 
lake — Lake  Carolyn — only  a  few  miles  long.  This 
they  crossed,  and,  in  places  where  the  snow  had  been 
blown  off,  they  could  see  down  through  the  beauti- 
ful transparent  ice,  seven  feet  in  thickness,  even  to 
the  stones  on  the  bottom  of  the  lake  near  the  shore. 
This  lake  had  an  elevation  of  eleven  h  nirod  feet 
above  the  sea.  In  three  hours  from  camp,  they 
reached  the  top  of  the  mountain,  an  elevation  of 
2,720  feet,  and  had  a  good  view.  To  the  south  the 
country  was  very  high,  and  several  glacier- walls  came 
into  view,  probably  connections  of  the  glacier  above 
Ella  Bay.  The  Henrietta  Nesmith  glacier,  the  Gar- 
field range,  and  the  United  States  Mountains,  were 
plainly  seen,  and  also  the  depression  in  which  lay 
Lake  Hazen.  Snow  and  ice  in  every  direction.  The 
cliffs  to  the  north  of  the  camp  were  very  conspicuous, 
but  whether  along  a  valley  or  lake  they  could  not 
make  out.  They  stayed  on  top  two  hours,  and  then 
descended  the  south  side  of  the  mountain  through 
a  deep  ravine  filled  in  places  with  snow-drifts,  and 
lower  down  with  stones  and  bowlders.  However, 
they  went  down  very  rapidly,  and  got  to  camp  in  two 
hours.     The  cliffs  to  the  north  seeming  to  extend  to 

the  west,  Lockwood  decided  to  visit  them  and  take 
12 


' 


tMI 


'i 


f  ■  • 


tl 


J> 


264 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


that  route.  The  only  other  feasible  route  was  by  way 
of  the  ravine  they  had  descended  from  the  mountain- 
top. 

Shortly  after  midnight  of  the  7th,  Frederick  had 
the  dogs  and  little  sledge  ready,  and,  with  nothing 
upon  it  but  the  shot-gun,  hatcliet,  and.  telescope,  they 
all  started.  The  dogs  were  irrepressible,  and  took 
the  little  sledge  over  the  rocks  in  a  way  calculated  to 
cripple  all  hands,  for  they  had  to  run  alongside  and 
hold  on  to  the  upstanders  to  keep  up.  Occasionally 
a  runner  of  the  sledge  would  catch  under  a  bowlder 
and  bring  the  sledge  to  a  sudden  stand-still,  the  im- 
mense strain  of  the  strong  dogs  threatening  to  break 
it.  On  reaching  the  lake,  all  three  of  the  men  man- 
aged to  crowd  upon  the  sledge,  and  the  dogs  went 
at  a  rapid  trot  over  its  smooth,  level  surface.  Be- 
yond Lai  t  Carolyn  was  a  ravine  leading  toward  the 
river,  and  there  the  dogs  took  to  a  gallop,  and  in  an 
hour  they  reached  a  rocky  height  overlooking  a  long, 
wide  valley  walled  in  on  the  north  side  by  high,  pre- 
cipitous cliffs,  and  on  the  south  by  heights  of  even 
greater  elevation,  but  not  so  steep.  There  seemed  no 
way,  however,  to  get  down.  The  water-course  from 
the  lake  here  became  a  narrow  gorge  blocked  with 
large  bowlders,  the  spaces  between  which  were  full  of 
soft  snow.  It  was  not  inviting,  but  they  tried  it,  and 
in  an  hour  reached  the  river-bed,  the  descent  being 
most  laborious.  Here  they  found  themselves  only 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and,  turning 
to  the  right,  went  down-stream  in  a  northeastern  di- 
rection, the  barometer  constantly  showing  that  they 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


2G5 


were  going  cJown-strcam.  En  route  they  passed  over 
several  small  lakes  formed  by  expansions  of  the 
stream.  In  many  places  the  ice  was  very  thick  and 
beautifully  transparent.  Seven  miles  from  Rocky 
Gorge,  where  they  entered  the  river,  they  suddenly 
saw  four  musk-oxen.  Frederick  being  very  anxious 
for  slaughter  was  allowed  to  go  after  them,  while 
Brainard  remained  to  watch  the  sledge  and  dogs,  and 
Lockwood  went  off  to  the  right  to  take  some  com- 
pass-bearings. After  a  while  he  heard  a  shot  from 
Frederick,  and  saw  one  of  the  animals  fall.  The  oth- 
ers did  not  seem  at  all  frightened,  but  stood  by  their 
dead  comrade  until  Frederick  drove  them  away  by 
throwing  stones  at  them.  The  dogs  became  greatly 
excited,  and,  going  to  where  the  dead  game  lay — a 
second  ox  having  been  killed — they  gorged  themselves 
with  the  entrails  until  there  was  dangor  of  ruining 
their  own. 

Having  returned  to  the  camp,  Lockwood  now  pro- 
jected a  special  trip  westward  of  twelve  days,  and  pre- 
pared his  outfit  as  follows  :  Shelter-tent,  sleeping-bags, 
axe,  sextant,  etc.,  telescope,  shot-gun  and  ammunition, 
medicine,  cook's  bag,  rubber  blankets,  small  lamp, 
knapsacks,  snow-shoes,  rations  for  three  at  forty-five 
ounces  each  per  day,  and  one  sack  of  pemmican  for 
dogs ;  total,  328|  pounds.  The  large  tent  was  left 
standing  with  the  big  sledge  alongside  and  the  Ameri- 
can flag  flying  from  the  upstander.  They  got  off  at 
an  early  hour  on  the  8th  with  the  dogs  in  excellent 
condition.  Much  work  was  required  to  get,  over  the 
rocks,  but  after  that  they  proceeded  satisfac.orily  un- 


•  II 


.\- 


■/■  I 


,ii 


I'll ;' 


ill. 


266 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


til  near  the  valley.  This  was  found  to  be  quite  wide  for 
a  region  where  everything  of  the  kind  was  more  like  a 
caflon  than  a  valley  in  the  ordinary  sense.  Its  width 
was  two  or  three  miles,  or  perhaps  in  some  places  four, 
and  the  general  gradients  of  the  stream-bed  (Dodge 
Eiver)  were  very  slight,  perhaps  thirty  feet  to  the 
mile.  Narrow,  deep  cuts  in  the  cliirs  and  high  ground 
around  indicated  tributary  streams. 

Frederick  having  shot  a  hare,  and  gathered  up  the 
other  food,  they  proceeded  on  their  way,  traveling 
now  over  thick,  clear  ice  and  hard  snow,  with  now  and 
then  patches  of  stones.  The  valley  seemed  to  come 
to  an  end  some  fifteen  miles  up-stream,  a  range  of  high 
hills  running  directly  across  it. 

After  various  tribulations  in  exploring  a  side  gorge, 
at  midnight  on  the  10th  of  May  the  party  resumed 
travel  up  the  valley.  The  condition  of  the  sledge- 
runners  rendered  it  necessary  to  reduce  the  weight  to 
the  least  amount  possible.  This  doubtless  pleased 
the  dogs,  for  the  driver  had  to  restrain  their  ardor. 
Leaving  the  sledge  to  pursue  its  way  along  the  base 
of  the  hills,  Lockwood  ascended  a  considerable  ele- 
vation and  obtained  a  good  outlook  over  the  country. 
He  was  very  agreeably  surprised  to  fir.d  at  the  farther 
end  of  a  gap  up  stream  an  apparent  prolongation  of 
the  valley  in  the  same  general  direction.  On  either 
side  of  this  prolongation  was  a  range  of  low  heights, 
while  the  intermediate  surface  looked  very  level — so 
level  that  he  took  it  for  a  long  lake.  To  the  left, 
just  outside  the  heights  on  that  side  of  the  valley,  he 
could  see  at  intervals  a  glacier- wall,  the  north  bound- 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


2G7 


ary  of  a  great  mer  de  glace.  About  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant, the  valley  seemed  again  to  be  shut  in  by  a  range 
of  hills,  but  over  the  tops  of  them,  and  at  a  great 
elevation  on  the  distant  horizon,  he  saw  what  seemed 
to  be  a  snow-bank.  This  he  made  his  objective  point. 
Passing  onward  through  the  gap,  they  came  to  a  long 
and  picturesque  lake  which  was  named  Lake  Nan  af- 
ter an  interesting  niece ;  and  coming  to  a  place  near 
the  end  of  the  valley,  a  break  in  the  low  heights  to 
the  left  revealed  the  glacier  they  had  before  seen.  Its 
surface  was  very  distinct.  Extending  to  the  south 
a  few  miles,  it  soon  reached  an  elevation  that  formed 
the  horizon  in  that  direction.  It  seemed  a  vast  un- 
dulating surface,  and,  as  was  afterward  discovered,  is 
the  backbone  of  Grinnell  Land.  The  wall  of  the  gla- 
cier near  which  they  camped  presented  a  vertical  face 
of  solid  ice  140  feet  high.  At  intervals  they  heard 
the  sound  of  falling  ice — small  fragments  which  be- 
came detached  and  dropped  to  the  base.  The  alti- 
tude of  this  camp  above  the  sea-level  was  found  to 
be  1,240  feet,  and  of  Lake  Nan  920  feet ;  that  of  thoir 
last  camp  was  G85  feet,  and  of  the  first  camp  in  the 
valley,  420  feet. 

Passing  onward,  they  crossed  several  small  lakes 
close  along  the  wall,  with  brooks  emptying  into  them 
from  the  north.  In  a  few  hours  they  were  on  the 
divide,  the  surface  to  the  north  having  more  slope 
than  that  on  the  other  side.  The  summit  gave  an 
elevation  by  barometer  of  2,G10  feet,  about  400  feet 
higher  than  where  they  left  the  wall.  They  had  an 
extensive  view  to  the  east,  and  could  see  Dodge  lliver 


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Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  •73-4503 


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FARTHEST  NORTH. 


as  far  as  they  had  explored  it^  also  Mount  Easy  and 
the  country  adjacent.  To  the  southeast^  south,  and 
southwest,  was  seen  the  glacier,  which  was  named 
after  Agassiz.  It  formed  the  horizon  for  half  a  dozen 
miles  in  these  directions.  All  the  ice-capped  coun- 
try and  glaciers  seen  from  the  former  camps  were 
found  to  be  connected  with,  and  to  form  a  part  of 
this  one  glacier.  Toward  the  north,  the  country  had 
comparatively  little  snow.  Presently  they  came  in 
view  of  a  mountain-peak  toward  the  northwest,  not 
many  miles  distant,  which  was  recognized  as  Mount 
Arthur,  the  farthest  point  reached  by  Lieutenant 
Greely  during  the  previous  year.  Away  beyond  it 
were  seen  very  distinctly  the  United  States  and  Gar- 
field Mountains.  Just  to  the  west  of  Mount  Arthur, 
they  discovered  a  large  lake,  which  Lockwood  named 
Lake  Fletcher,  They  were  now  on  a  surface  rapidly 
sloping  to  the  west.  Some  miles  distant  in  this  direc- 
tion appeared  a  broken  range  of  clifEs  and  mountains, 
and  between  their  stand-point  and  these  moui: tains 
was  a  wide  valley,  connected  by  a  stream  with  Lake 
Fletcher,  and  a  small  lake,  close  to  the  Chinese  Wall, 
which  they  called  Lake  Harry,  the  latter  having  an 
elevation  of  1,320  feet.  They  crossed  Lake  Harry,  and 
beyond  it  came  to  another  called  Lake  Bessie,  having 
an  elevation  of  1,630  feet,  and  covered  with  deep  snow. 
Beaching  the  clifEs  to  the  west,  they  found  the  de- 
scent exceedingly  precipitous  and  rugged.  No  other 
passage  offered  than  that  through  a  gorge  which  was 
filled  with  ice  and  hard  snow,  whose  surface  was  al- 
most perpendicular.     As  this  was  the  only  passage. 


ACROSS  6RINNELL  LAND. 


269 


^\ 


\  i 


they  went  into  camp  to  deyise  ways  and  means.  Next 
morning,  Lockwood  attached  all  the  ropes  he  had,  in- 
cluding dog-traces,  to  the  sledge,  and  while  he  rode 
to  guide  caused  the  others  to  ease  down  the  sledge. 
Unfortunately,  the  rope  was  too  short,  and  those  at 
the  top  let  go.  Gravity  carried  the  sledge  and  rider 
down  the  foot  of  the  slope,  now  somewhat  reduced, 
with  fearful  rapidity,  till  they  brought  up  against 
rocks  covered  with  snow,  fortunately  without  serious 
damage.  The  other  men  and  dogs  got  down  as  best 
they  could,  the  former  digging  footholds  as  they  pro- 
gressed. 

Further  descending  the  canon,  they  came  to  an- 
other glacier  stretching  entirely  across  their  way,  and, 
as  it  seemed  impossible  to  surmount  it  or  the  walls 
on  either  side,  they  came  to  a  halt  and  enjoyed  a 
night  of  rest.  The  next  day  they  pushed  on,  though 
troubled  with  snow-blindness,  and,  overcoming  the 
obstacle  of  the  previous  day,  crossed  a  lake  and  en- 
camped on  its  farther  end.  On  the  following  day, 
after  passing  through  a  gorge,  the  outlet  of  the  lake, 
between  high  clifEs,  they  were  surprised  to  see  a  num- 
ber of  flocbergs  similar  in  every  respect  to  the  floe- 
bergs  of  the  east  Grinnell  coast.  At  the  same  time 
they  found  the  water  to  be  salt,  and  saw  the  fresh 
tracks  of  a  bear.  These  facts  convinced  Lockwood 
that  they  were  near  the  western  sea,  probably  at  the 
head  of  a  fiord.  This  soon  became  still  more  ap- 
parent. Here  they  also  saw  another  glacier  com- 
ing in  some  miles  west  of  the  last.  They  crossed  a 
crack  of  open  water,  formed  by  the  tide,  and  found 


ril 


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270 


FARTDEST  NORTH. 


themselves  on  well-recognized  floe-ice,  quite  level  but 
covered  in  places  with  deep  snow.  Ahead  of  them, 
twenty  miles  distant,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  fiord, 
was  a  bold  headland,  and  toward  this  they  now  direct- 
ed their  course.  This  fiord,  which  Lockwood  named 
after  Lieutenant  Greely,  separated  at  its  head  into 
two  bays.  These  he  called,  after  Greely's  daughters, 
Adola  and  Antoinette.  The  latter  bay  they  were  now 
crossing,  while  they  bore  away  to  the  north.  It  had 
become  very  foggy,  and  was  snowing  and  blowing 
hard.  When  some  miles  out  they  crossed  other  bear- 
tracks,  and  finally  reached  the  cape  for  which  they  had 
been  striving.  Ilere  the  south  shore  of  the  fiord  bent 
off  toward  the  west-southwest  being  very  wide  and 
walled  in  on  all  sides  by  steep  cliffs  broken  in  a  few 
places  by  branch  fiords  or  bays.  They  encamped  at 
the  cape  on  the  13th,  had  supper,  and  soon  turned  in 
to  sleep  and  fast  as  long  as  possible,  or  until  the  storm 
abated,  as  the  party  was  now  reduced  to  what  they 
called  a  starvation  allowance.  There  was  nothing  to 
do  but  to  make  observations  when  the  sun  appeared. 

The  mouth  of  the  fiord  at  the  north  side  was 
found  to  be  about  forty  miles  off,  but  the  snow  was 
deep  and  soft,  and  they  could  not  attempt  it  without 
rations,  all  of  which  was  extremely  provoking.  The 
Bun  became  dimly  visible  through  a  snow-storm,  look- 
ing like  a  grease-spot  in  the  sky ;  but,  notwithstand- 
ing, observations  were  attempted  for  latitude  and  lon- 
gitude, and  many  compass -bearings  were  taken.  At 
times  everything  was  shut  out  of  sight  excepting  the 
nearest  cliff.      Brainard  feared  they  would  have  a 


ACROSS  6RINNELL  LAND. 


271 


very  hard  time  in  getting  back,  and  Frederick  evident- 
ly thought  he  was  a  long  distance  from  Fort  Conger, 
seeming  rather  "down  in  the  mouth." 

Soon  after  breakfast  on  the  15th,  Lockwood  and 
Brainard  started  to  ascend  the  cliffs  near  by,  the 
weather  having  partially  cleared.  They  did  so  by 
means  of  a  ravine  opposite  the  camp,  and  had  hardly 
reached  the  top  before  the  snow  began  to  fall  again, 
and  the  wind  to  blow  from  the  east ;  but,  notwith- 
standing, they  saw  a  large  glacier  to  the  south  twenty 
or  thirty  miles  away,  and  another  to  the  northwest 
at  about  the  same  distance.  The  first  was  apparently 
an  offshoot  of  the  great "  Chinese  Wall "  already  men- 
tioned. They  saw  also  a  lofty  range  of  mountains 
far  to  the  north,  running  generally  parallel  with  the 
fiord.  The  cliffs  to  the  west  shut  out  the  mouth  of 
the  fiord,  and,  before  they  could  get  far  enough  in  that 
direction  to  see  over  them,  the  coming  storm  obscured 
almost  everything.  These  cliffs  were  2,140  feet  high 
by  the  barometer,  and  almost  vertical.  The  driving 
F  low  now  became  very  uncomfortable,  and,  after  going 
three  miles  westward,  they  concluded  to  return.  En 
route,  they  found  a  number  of  fossils  of  what  seemed 
to  be  trees,  snakes,  or  fishes,  Brainard  being  the  first 
to  notice  them.  They  also  saw  a  ptarmigan,  an  owl, 
and  some  snow-buntings,  these  being  the  only  living 
objects  observed.  Reached  the  tent  after  six  hours* 
absence,  and  found  Frederick  tramping  around  in  the 
snow,  not  knowing  what  to  do  with  himself.  After 
supper,  all  three  of  the  party  with  the  sledge  and 
dogs  went  an  hour's  journey  toward  the  opposite  shore 


!'    ll 


;? 


I,  ■ 


:4: 


272 


FABTHEST  NORTH. 


^^1^ 


of  the  fiord,  ten  miles  away.  The  sky  was  partially 
clear,  and  they  got  a  yery  good  view  down  the  fiord, 
the  telescope  bringing  into  view  another  cape  (Cape 
Lockwood).  Between  that  and  the  cape  on  the  north 
side  (Cape  Brainard),  they  failed  to  see  any  land, 
though  they  examined  long  and  carefully  with  the 
telescope.  The  fiord  between  those  two  capes  was 
very  wide.  Several  branch  fiords,  or  what  appeared 
to  be  such,  were  noticed.  Cape  Lockwood  seemed  to 
be  on  the  farther  side  of  one  of  these,  or  on  an  island. 
The  country  on  both  sides  of  the  fiord  was  very  ele- 
vated, that  on  the  north  side  much  broken,  and  that 
on  the  south,  away  from  the  fiord,  apparently  an  ice- 
clad  surface  rising  into  immense,  dome-like  undula- 
tions against  the  horizon. 

After  a  meager  breakfast,  they  started  on  their 
return,  finding  the  snow  very  deep  and  soft.  The 
effect  of  short  rations  on  the  dogs  was  noticed.  They 
saw  two  seals  lying  on  the  ice,  which  Frederick  tried 
hard  to  shoot,  but  in  \ain.  Lockwood  was  especially 
anxious  to  get  a  seal,  for  it  looked  as  if  they  would 
have  to  kill  one  dog  to  save  the  remainder.  After 
much  trouble  for  want  of  food,  they  resumed  their 
journey  on  the  17th,  verifying  at  various  points  the 
observations  that  had  been  previously  made  in  regard 
to  the  great  ice-wall  and  the  lake  over  which  they 
had  already  passed. 

On  reaching  the  end  of  the  lake,  they  began  the 
ascent  of  the  ravine.  The  snow  at  the  head  of  the 
ravine  was  very  soft  and  deep,  and  they  had  hard 
work  to  get  through  it.    Arriving  at  the  big  snow-drift 


ACBOSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


273 


ill 


which  they  had  descended  with  so  much  difficulty  and 
danger,  it  became  a  question  how  to  ascend,  but  they 
managed  it  by  first  cutting  some  steps  and  getting 
the  dogs  up,  and  then,  attaching  them  by  long  lines 
to  the  sledge  below,  men  and  dogs  together  pulled 
the  load  up  the  almost  vertical  face.  The  party 
went  into  camp  at  the  old  place,  and  decided  to  kill 
one  of  the  dogs,  yet  very  reluctantly,  Frederick  op- 
posing it.  Brainard  had  suggested  White  Cooney, 
but  Frederick  named  Button,  a  young  dog.  Button 
had  eaten  up  his  harness  that  morning,  and  this  de- 
cided his  fate.  He  was  shot  by  Frederick,  and  soon 
the  carcass  was  skinned  and  presented  to  his  brethren. 
Old  Howler  at  once  seized  a  hind-quarter,  but  the 
others  did  nothing  more  than  smell  the  meat.  They 
walked  around  it  in  a  reflective  mood,  debating 
whether  to  yield  to  their  hunger  or  to  their  repug- 
nance. When  the  party  awoke  next  morning,  noth- 
ing remained  of  poor  Button  but  some  of  the  larger 
bones. 

On  the  18th,  Lockwood  and  Brainard  ascended  a 
neighboring  mountain  and  got  a  look  at  the  country. 
The  ascent  was  easy  and  they  gained  the  top  in  a 
short  time;  altitude,  2,008  feet.  From  this  point 
they  could  see  the  "  Chinese  Wall "  stretching  off  to 
the  southwest  forty  miles,  over  hills  and  dales,  as  far 
as  the  glacier  south  of  Fossil  Mountain,  although 
Lockwood  could  not  recognize  that  particular  glacier. 
The  glaciers  at  the  two  ends  of  the  lake,  near  Greely 
Fiord,  were  readily  seen  to  be  offshoots  of  the  greater 
one,  whose  surface  toward  the  south  could  be  seen  for 


.1  : 
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274 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


several  miles.  In  that  direction,  Lockwood  took  the 
bearings  of  several  ice-capped  mountains,  one,  as  he 
thought,  identical  with  a  very  high  mountain  seen  to 
the  south  from  Antoinette  Bay.  The  "Chinese 
Wall "  had  the  same  general  aspect  everywhere — a 
vertical  face  of  pure  white  or  green  ice  upward  of 
two  hundred  feet  high,  and  extending  across  the 
country  in  a  fashion  he  could  liken  to  nothing  else. 

From  here  Lockwood  made  a  short  excursion  by 
himself  to  Lake  Harry,  discovered  a  number  of  other 
small  lakes,  and  obtained  the  altitude  of  several  locali- 
ties, lie  returned  to  camp  only  to  find  the  dogs  in  a 
bad  way  for  food,  and  a  scarcity  for  himself  and  men. 
Resuming  their  course  the  next  morning,  after  the 
dog  Howler  had  performed  the  remarkable  feat  of 
stealing  a  piece  of  meat  when  it  was  cooking  on  the 
alcohol-stove,  they  passed  many  of  the  localities  they 
had  seen  before,  but  in  some  cases  hardly  recognized 
them  on  account  of  the  flying  snow.  Making  two 
marches  in  twenty-four  hours,  they  reached  their  first 
camp,  and  found  the  tent  blown  down,  but  the  big 
sledge  in  its  position,  with  the  American  flag  flying 
over  it  as  gayly  as  if  in  a  pleasant  and  genial  clime. 
The  dogs  were  gratified  with  a  good  feast  of  pemmi- 
can,  and  the  men  themselves  found  it  delightful,  once 
more  to  have  a  full  supply  of  food. 

Their  next  move  was  for  Archer  Fiord,  by  way 
of  Beatrix  Bay  and  Record  Point.  They  crossed 
another  lake,  where,  as  once  before,  they  could  see 
the  bottom  through  ice  that  was  seven  feet  in  thick- 
ness, having  revisited  the  north  side  of   Musk-ox 


ACR0S8  GRINNELL  LAND. 


275 


Valley,  which  was  separated  from  the  lake  by  a  very 
low  and  narrow  divide.  Dodge  River  was  seen  bend- 
ing off  to  the  northeast  toward  Howgate  Fiord.  The 
surroundings  were  very  picturesque,  but  barren  and 
desolate  in  the  extreme.  They  saw  no  signs  of  game, 
and  even  the  poor,  stunted  vegetation  of  the  region 
was  wanting.  Rocks  and  snow,  with  stretches  of  bare 
ground,  composed  the  prospect. 

The  lake  alluded  to  above  was  about  twelve  mik  s 
long — ^a  considerable  sheet  of  water — and,  no  doubt, 
in  summer  would  be  an  interesting  place  to  visit,  as 
places  go  in  the  Arctic  regions. 

After  camping  they  proceeded  along  to  the  east  of 
Murray  Island,  the  weather  cloudy  and  calm.  Depot 
Point  was  revisited,  to  look  for  the  English  rations, 
but  nothing  found. 

Having  killed  a  seal,  they  took  the  meat  and  blub- 
ber along,  and  camped  about  ten  miles  from  Bulley*8 
Lump,  where  they  had  a  good  feast  of  meat  and  liver. 
The  latter  was  greatly  relished,  Brainard  making  it 
into  many  dishes. 

On  the  24th,  they  enjoyed  their  breakfast  at  mid- 
night, Lockwood  calling  it  a  real  midnight  mass,  as  it 
was  a  black  mass  of  seal-liver,  English  meat,  corned 
beef,  potatoes,  and  hard  bread,  all  cooked  together  in 
one  stew  which  was  very  good,  notwithstanding  its 
miscellaneous  character. 

The  comments  of  Lockwood,  in  regard  to  the  ex- 
pedition, and  how  matters  were  at  the  station,  were  as 
follow  : 

**No  such  word  as  'failed*  to  write  this  time,  I 


n 


i 


n 


h 


I 


v.- 


276 


FAUTHEST  NORTfl. 


am  thankful  to  say,  but  the  happy  reflection  is  mine 
that  I  accomplished  more  than  any  one  expected,  and 
more  than  I  myself  dared  hope — the  discovery  of 
the  western  sea,  and  hence  the  western  coast-line  of 
OrinncU  Land.  I  have  now  the  rather  ponderous 
task  of  preparing  a  report,  making  a  map,  and  writ- 
ing out  this  journal  from  my  notes.  Tidal  observa- 
tions have  been  taken  at  Capes  Baird,  Distant,  and 
Bcechy,  simultaneously,  showing  that  the  tides  arrive 
at  these  places  in  the  order  named.  This  is  very 
singular,  as  the  previous  expeditions  into  these  parts 
established  (?)  the  tides  as  coming  from  the  north. 
This  agrees,  however,  with  the  order  of  their  arrival 
at  Cape  Sumner,  Gap  Valley,  and  Black  Uorn  Cliffs, 
where  I  took  observations  in  April.  No  more  musk- 
ox  meat  left ;  it  ran  out  on  the  20th  inst.,  and  hunt- 
ing-parties sent  out  April  25th  saw  nothing.  I  sur- 
mised as  much,  from  the  absence  of  game  on  my  trip, 
though  Brainard  did  not  agree  with  me.  Two  seals 
have  been  shot,  but  only  one  secured. 

"  I  find  the  social  relations  of  our  room  not  im- 
proved— rather  worse  than  better.  Dr.  P.,  though 
he  shook  hands  and  asked  me  several  questions  as 
to  my  trip,  relapsed  into  silence,  which  he  seldom 
breaks.  Lieutenant  E.  had  but  one  question  to  ask. 
I  often  contrast  ours  with  the  pleasant  relations  of  the 
English  officers  when  here,  and  think  how  much  hap- 
pier we  should  be  in  following  their  example.  As  it 
is,  I  soon  relapse  into  ennui  and  apathy.  A  sledge- 
journey,  with  all  its  trials,  is  preferable  to  this.  I  view 
those  ahead  of  us  with  indifference,  as  it  will  rid  me 


ACROSS  GRINNELL  LAND. 


277 


of  this  forced  association.  Another  winter  would 
render  me  a  maniac,  or  put  me  under  a  cairn. 

**  The  spirits  of  the  men  seem  good.  The  sun  has 
revived  them.  Merry  groups  may  be  seen  at  any 
time  on  the  sunny  sides  of  the  house. 

"  How  often  do  I  think  of  home,  which  now  seems 
to  me  like  a  series  of  pictures  or  objects  long  since 
seen  I  how  often  of  my  dear  father,  whom  may  a  kind 
Providence  spare  for  many,  many  years  1 

"  Both  Brainard  and  I  lost  a  score  of  pounds 
weight  on  our  late  trip ;  but  we  are  rapidly  regain- 
ing our  avoirdupois.  My  appetite  is  frightful,  and 
nothing  comes  amiss.  I  want  to  eat  every  three  or 
four  hours.  Fortunately,  we  have  a  supply  of  musk- 
ox  beef  on  hand,  having  killed  three  recently  aggre- 
gating four  hundred  pounds,  to  which  are  added  many 
water  and  other  fowl  daily  brought  in.  There  was 
felt  at  one  time  some  apprehension  that  our  resource 
in  this  respect  had  disappeared,  and  fears  were  enter- 
tained of  scurvy.  The  men  seem  to  have  fared  so 
well  that  their  appetites  have  become  dainty.  One 
would  suppose  that  pork  and  beans  were  not  staples  at 
our  army  posts. 

**  Israel  makes  mj  farthest  of  the  last  trip,  latitude 
80°  47',  longitude  88°  29'.  Hence  my  explorations  ex- 
tend over  2^°  of  latitude  and  38°  of  lon^ritude.  Have 
plotted  my  western  journey,  and  find  that  my  farthest 
carries  me  far  oS.  the  English  map.  1  took  latitude 
and  longitude  observations  at  eve.y  camp,  and  also 
frequent  compass-bearings;  to  reconcile  all  these  is 
a  task. 


r 


!l 


t-,' 


'-  m\ 


14 


278 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


"  Rice  has  taken  a  photograph  of  my  corner^  where 
I  do  all  my  work  and  also  sleep. 

**  Uave  hoen  reading  the  authorities  on  glaciers, 
and  regret  I  did  not  inform  myself  better  before  going 
out.  But  perhaps  that  Chinese  Wall  will  make  up 
for  my  short-comings. 

**  Those  rheumatic  pains  I  had  a  year  ago  haye  re- 
turned and  trouble  me  much.  I  must  bo  moving 
again  soon. 

"  Several  of  the  dogs,  becoming  mangy,  have  been 
shot.  Poor  old  '  Howler,'  whom  we  left  on  the  ice- 
floe, hoping  he  would  recover  and  follow  us,  was 
found  dead  near  the  same  place.  Oh !  the  hours  of 
misery  I  have  spent  in  sleeping-bags,  kept  awake  by 
that  howling  brute — howling,  perhaps,  just  because 
another  dog  looked  at  him  I  But,  for  all  his  bowlings 
and  stealings,  the  ex-king  was  a  good  worker  and  did  his 
duty,  and  that  should  be  all  required  of  any  one,  man 
or  dog.  May  he  rest  in  peace  in  the  happy  hunting- 
grounds  of  the  canine  race  I  Frederick,  I  presume, 
will  put  on  crape  for  him." 


XVI. 


PREPARING  FOR  HOME. 

Hardly  had  Lieutenant  Lockwood  rcoccupied 
his  corner  long  enough  to  get  thoroughly  rested  and 
warm,  before  wo  find  him  hard  at  work  again  and 
ready  for  any  emergency.  At  the  request  of  Lieuten- 
ant Greely,  ho  undertook  a  task  in  which  he  himself 
feared  that  he  manifested  more  zeal  than  discretion. 
Dr.  Pavy,  the  natural  history  custodian  of  the  expe- 
dition, having  failed  to  render  reports  of  the  collec- 
tions, or  properly  care  for  them,  was  relieved  soon  after 
Lockwood's  return  from  the  west,  and  the  department 
was  transferred  to  Lockwood.  With  very  little  aid 
from  the  doctor,  he  made  lists  and  secured  the  speci- 
mens from  further  injury,  the  men  having  shown 
much  industry  and  zeal  in  adding  to  the  collection. 
In  the  mean  time,  Fredericks,  who  was  a  saddler  by 
trade,  rendered  good  service  by  making  for  Lockwood 
and  the  men  seal-skin  boots,  which  were  of  great  use  ; 
and  he  also  made  himself  useful  by  overhauling  the 
sleeping-bags  and  making  new  ones  for  the  contem- 
plated boat-voyage  to  Littleton  Island  at  a  later  day. 
Snyder  had  also  made  some  wearing  gear  for  use  on 
board  the  relief -ship. 

"What  a  change  for  us  all,"  wrote  Lockwood  on 


i 


Il  I 


•s¥.- 


280 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


the  3d  of  June,  "if  we  ever  return  home  I  And  how 
much  to  talk  about,  and  how  much  to  hear  I  Just 
two  years  ago,  I  left  Baltimore  on  the  Nova  Scotia,  to 
join  the  Proteus  at  St.  John's.  Open  water  is  re- 
ported in  the  straits  near  Cape  Baird.  How  eagerly 
we  watch  for  any  change  that  may  effect  our  release  I  '* 

On  the  22d  of  June,  a  party  was  sent  up  the 
Bellows  for  game  and  returned  successful,  having 
killed  eight  musk-oxen,  one  seal,  and  a  few  geese,  all 
of  which  were  duly  brought  in.  Many  waterfowl  and 
ptarmigans  were  brought  from  other  points ;  and  then 
followed  a  grand  dinner  in  honor  of  Dr.  Pavy's  birth- 
day. To  show  the  social  relations  of  the  officers.  Lock- 
wood  says,  "The  only  remark  at  dinner  was  a  very 
sage  one  by  myself,  viz.,  that  the  sun  was  now  on  his 
way  south,  to  which  Lieutenant  Greely  assented. 

"  The  men  all  busy  and  all  cheerful.  Lieutenant 
Greely  remarked  that  it  did  not  look  as  if  the  *  gloom 
which  their  coming  fate  cast  over  the  spirits  of  the 
men'  was  quite  as  deep  as  Lieutenant  Kislingbury 
thought  it  to  be.  Another  day  gone,"  wrote  Lock- 
wood — "  another  day  nearer  the  end  of  our  stay  here  1 
A  miserable,  gloomy  day  it  is  too.  Snow,  or  snow 
mixed  with  rain,  all  day,  and  last  night  it  blew  a  gale 
from  the  right  direction  to  clear  away  the  ice — north- 
east. I  think  myself  now  in  excellent  condition  for  a 
hermit's  life,  having  had  two  years'  experience  of  a 
life  not  very  dissimilar." 

On  the  3d  of  June,  Lockwood  made  the  ascent  of 
an  immense  "hog-back"  north  of  the  station.  Hog- 
back was  the  term  used  by  the  English  to  designate 


PREFARINO  FOR  HOME. 


281 


the  oval-shaped  elevations  so  common  in  this  region, 
being  neither  mountain  nor  table-land,  but  immense 
undulations  which,  with  more  or  less  slope,  rise  three, 
four,  or  even  five  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level. 
He  was  the  first  to  ascend  this  one,  and  did  so  to  view 
the  country  northwest  of  it,  which  he  desired  to  ex- 
plore. It  was  the  highest  of  a  series  of  ridges,  half 
a  mile  or  so  apart,  each  just  high  enough  to  suggest 
the  idea  of  its  being  the  genuine  top,  but  showing 
another  beyond  still  higher.  He  pressed  on,  fre- 
quently resting,  and  finally  did  reach  the  top,  and 
saw,  beyond,  the  United  States  Mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  view  from  this  elevation,  more  than  half 
a  mile  above  the  sea-level,  was  superb.  The  straits 
seemed  one  solid  mass  of  ice.  The  Greenland  shore 
and  Archer's  Fiord  were  in  full  view.  The  whole 
land  was  made  up  of  mountains. 

The  4th  of  July  was  celebrated  by  a  game  of  base- 
ball, in  which  Lieutenant  Greely  took  part ;  also  the 
Esquimaux,  but  they  confined  themselves  to  running 
after  the  ball.  A  good  dinner  followed,  to  which 
Lieutenant  Greely  contributed  four  bottles  of  Sau- 
teme  ;  but  the  doctor  declined  the  wine,  and  made  a 
hasty  meal.  They  also  had  a  rifle-match.  Several 
of  the  men  donned  white  shirts  and  other  **  store- 
clothes,"  metamorphosing  themselves  completely,  flan- 
nel shirts,  with  trousers  in  boots,  being  the  usual  cos- 
tume. 

On  the  same  day  Lieutenant  Greely  issued  an 
order  directing  Dr.  Pavy  to  turn  over  to  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  all  the  medical  stores,  journals,  and  col- 


li 


111 


h 


;1 

« ■ 


!«  ■ 


*i 


m 


282 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


lections,  the  former  having  declined  to  renew  his  en- 
gagement, which  had  expired.  On  the  11th  of  July, 
Lockwood  started  with  Brainard  on  an  exploration  to- 
ward the  northwest  with  a  view  of  reaching,  if  pos- 
sible, the  United  States  range  of  mountains.  They 
carried  an  outfit  weighing  one  hundred  pounds,  or 
twenty-five  pounds  for  each  man  at  the  start,  as 
Henry  and  Biederbick  were  to  help  them  with  the 
impedimenta  for  one  day  and  then  return.  They 
went  without  sledge  or  tent,  and  carried  only  blanket, 
sleeping-bags,  a  small  lamp,  and  a  few  pounds  of 
food,  with  instruments,  snow-shoes,  etc.  They  soon 
reached  the  top  of  the  hog-back  beyond  **Sugar- 
Loaf,"  and  afterward  the  true  hog-back  Lockwood 
had  visited  before,  finding  it  2,700  feet  high. 
Thence  they  kept  a  north-northwest  course  toward 
a  prominent  glacier  in  the  United  States  Range,  mov- 
ing about  parallel  to  North  Valley  Creek,  which  emp- 
ties into  St.  Patrick's  Bay.  After  traveling  fourteen 
miles  they  camped — that  is,  selected  as  smooth  and 
sheltered  a  spot  as  could  be  found,  made  some  tea, 
spread  out  the  sleeping-bags,  and  crawled  in. 

Henry  and  Biederbick  left  the  next  morning  evi- 
dently well  satisfied  to  forego  the  pleasures  of  this 
trip.  Their  departure  rendered  it  necessary  to  reduce 
the  load  somewhat,  which  was  done  by  leaving  behind 
the  snow-shoes  and  rubber  spread,  trusting  to  luck  to 
find  a  bare  spot  for  their  sleeping-bag.  After  tramp- 
ing through  much  wet  snow  alternating  with  mud 
and  stones,  and  getting  their  feet  soaking  wet,  they 
came  to  two  deep  gorges  close  together,  each  occupied 


PREPARING  FOR  HOME. 


283 


by  a  considerable  stream  of  water.  They  crossed 
these  and  ascended  a  dome  beyond,  three  thousand 
feet  high,  and  thence  came  to  a  still  larger  stream 
whose  gorge  was  one  thousand  feet  deep.  Here  they 
stopped  for  the  night  after  a  tramp  of  twelve  miles. 
The  next  morning  the  sky  was  overcast,  with  baromet- 
ric indications  of  a  storm  ;  but  they  continued  their 
way  with  reduced  loads,  havirg  only  one  day's  food 
left.  Following  the  stream  northwest  a  few  miles, 
they  crossed  it  and  ascended  a  high  elevation,  from 
which  the  United  States  range  could  be  very  distinct- 
ly viewed,  and  then  came  to  the  conclusion  that  they 
had  gone  far  enough. 

With  the  telescope  they  could  see  distinctly,  about 
twenty  miles  away,  the  walls  of  the  great  glacier,  and 
its  face  ten  miles  wide.  In  fact,  the  whole  range  was 
full  of  glaciers.  The  country  intervening  between 
them  and  the  glaciers  seemed  comparatively  level.  At 
noon  they  started  back,  and  did  not  stop  until  the 
camping-place  of  the  night  before  was  reached. 
Thence,  after  a  drink  of  tea  and  something  to  eat, 
abandoning  their  sleeping-bags,  they  made  for  their 
first  camp,  where  had  been  left  the  rubber  spread  and 
one  extra  bag.  The  traveling  was  execrable,  but 
they  reached  Fort  Conger  on  the  14th,  hungry,  tired, 
and  decidedly  used  up. 

On  the  24:th,  preparations  began  for  the  proposed 
boat-journey  toward  the  south  on  which  they  would 
start  when  the  ice  would  permit.  Lockwood,  in  obe- 
dience to  a  general  order,  prepared  to  take  no  cloth- 
ing except  what  he  wore,  and  the  few  pounds  of  his 


}  ^■: 


■'«! 


11 


^M 


284 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


baggage  would  consist  of  his  journal  and  other  pa- 
pers. He  felt  depressed  and  low-spirited,  and  totally 
indifferent  as  to  the  risks  they  were  to  encounter. 

The  straits  were  reported  clear  of  ice  below  Cape 
Lieber  on  the  26th,  but  the  bay  near  by  was  still  full, 
though  with  many  leads.  Every  preparation  was 
made  to  leave  on  the  1st  of  August,  if  possible,  or 
as  soon  after  as  the  ice  would  allow.  The  men  fid- 
dled and  sang,  and  seemed  in  joyous  spirits ;  and  the 
hilarity  was  kept  up  by  the  dogs  Ritenbank  and  Ask- 
him  having  a  terrible  fight,  resulting  in  victory  to  the 
latter.  The  probable  consequence  was  that  Ask-him 
would  now  be  king.  Ritenbank  went  about  with  his 
head  down  and  tail  between  his  legs,  a  dethroned  and 
friendless  monarch.  The  usurper's  reign,  however, 
was  likely  to  be  a  short  one,  as,  on  the  party's  leaving, 
the  dogs  would  either  be  shot  or  left  to  starve  to  death. 

The  5th  of  August  arrived,  and  the  ship  was  the 
only  thing  talked  about.  Some  of  the  men  reported 
smoke  down  the  straits,  but  it  was  soon  found  to  be 
only  water-clouds  or  fog.  In  the  midst  of  these  ex- 
citements, Lockwood  gave  expression  to  the  following 
feelings  :  "As  the  time  for  moving  approaches,  I  feel 
a  singular  apathy.  If  we  had  plenty  of  fresh  meat  and 
more  good  books,  I  could  stand  another  winter  here.'* 

Soon  after,  heavy  winds  from  the  south  making 
great  changes  in  the  condition  of  the  ice,  active 
preparations  were  made  for  leaving. 

Lockwood  writes  :  "  I  don't  feel  as  though  I  was 
going  away,  much  less  toward  the  south.  Have  felt 
more  stirred  up  on  beginning  a  sledge-journey." 


i; 


PREPARING  FOR  HOME. 


285 


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XVII. 


HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

The  time  having  arriyed,  the  final  orders  were 
given  for  the  Arctic  exiles  to  make  ready  for  the  first 
stage  of  travel  leading  to  their  far-distant  home.  They 
were  now  to  leave  the  station  at  Fort  Conger,  and, 
as  best  they  could,  find  their  way  to  Littleton  Island, 
where  they  hoped  to  meet  a  vessel  that  would  take 
them  back  to  Newfoundland.  They  were  to  depart  in 
boats,  viz.,  the  steam-launch  Lady  Greely,  a  whale- 
boat,  an  English  boat  of  which  they  had  come  into 
possession,  and  a  still  smaller  affair,  that  might  prove 
serviceable  for  special  purposes. 

The  journal  kept  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  after 
his  departure  from  Fort  Conger  was  written  in  short- 
hand, as  always  while  in  the  field,  and  is  a  very  com- 
plete record.  In  the  following  pages,  only  a  brief 
summary  of  purely  personal  incidents  will  be  at- 
tempted, without  presuming  to  give  the  phraseology 
of  the  youthful  explorer. 

On  the  9  th  of  August,  the  little  fleet  pushed  off 
from  shore,  laden  with  the  twenty-five  adventurers 
and  a  comfortable  supply  of  provisions.  They 
reached  Bellot  Island  without  much  trouble,  but 
afterward  encountered  a  good  deal  of  ice,  and,  while 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


2S7 


working  very  hard  to  get  through,  Rice  accidentally 
fell  overboard,  which  was  for  him  a  poor  beginning. 
The  ice  continued  to  be  troublesome  until  the  close  of 
the  next  day,  when  the  boats  were  so  severely  nipped 
that  they  had  to  be  drawn  up  on  the  floe.  Afterward, 
open  water  appearing  all  the  way  across  the  fiord,  the 
launch  and  the  other  boats  made  a  successful  crossing 
nearly  opposite  Sun  Bay.  They  reached  the  depot 
near  Cape  Baird,  at  about  2  p.  m.,  up  to  which  hour, 
from,  the  time  of  leaving  Fort  Conger,  they  had  not 
been  able  to  secure  any  sleep,  nor  anything  to  drink 
but  cold  water.  Reaching  Cape  Lieber  on  the  11th 
in  a  snow-storm,  they  landed  on  a  blufE  about  a  mile 
from  the  cape,  where  they  waited  for  the  ice  to  move, 
so  that  they  might  continue  on  their  route  toward  the 
south  along  the  western  shore  of  the  strait.  The  only 
animals  seen  in  that  vicinity  were  two  narwhals,  fight- 
ing near  the  shore.  The  fog  now  became  so  very 
dense  that  no  headway  could  be  made,  and  this  gave 
them  an  opportunity  to  obtain  some  needed  rest. 
Their  next  advance  was  in  the  midst  of  a  severe  storm 
of  wind  and  snow,  in  spite  of  which  they  reached  Carl 
Ritter  Bay  on  the  morning  of  the  12th.  The  next 
morning,  while  they  had  open  water  near  the  shore, 
they  discovered  ice-barriers  extending  to  the  south  as 
far  as  they  could  see.  At  this  point  a  young  seal  was 
killed,  which  was  greatly  enjoyed  by  all  of  the  party ; 
but  this  luxury,  in  the  case  of  Lockwood,  was  coun- 
terbalanced by  the  discomfort  of  sleeping  on  shore 
without  any  protection  excepting  that  of  his  bag. 

He  also  spent  several  nights  on  a  floe-berg,  where, 
13 


it 


111 


1    ;■ 


i 
I 

Ik 


288 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


! 


by  laying  his  sleoping-bag  on  a  sheep-skin,  ho  slept 
more  comfortably.  From  the  13th  until  the  20th, 
when  the  party  reached  Rawlings's  Bay,  it  was  a  con- 
tinual conflict  with  floating  ice,  snow-storms,  and 
fog,  the  monotony  of  the  struggle  having  been  broken 
by  an  accident  to  the  launch,  and  also  one  to  Lieuten- 
ant Greely,  who  had  a  fall  into  ihe  water,  from  which 
he  was  rescued  without  harm.  At  all  the  places  where 
they  encamped,  they  had  great  diflBculty  in  securing  a 
safe  harbor  for  the  launch.  Having  passed  across 
Richardson  Bay  in  safety  and  reached  Cape  Collinson, 
they  found  about  one  hundred  and  twenty,  out  of  two 
hundred  and  forty,  English  rations  which  had  been  de- 
posited there,  the  missing  portion  having  been  eaten 
by  the  foxes.  On  the  22d  they  reached  Scoresby  Bay, 
where  observations  of  the  strait  showed  it  to  be  full 
c^  floating  ice  ;  and  in  this  vicinity  they  were  brought 
to  a  halt  by  the  ice-pack  near  the  shore  at  Cape  John 
Barrow.  Here  the  boats  were  pulled  up  on  the  floe, 
and,  as  the  thick  sludge-ice  was  all  around,  no  open 
water  in  sight,  and  the  supply  of  coal  getting  very 
low,  the  prospect  was  gloomy  in  the  extreme.  When 
able  to  continue  on  their  course,  the  travelers  were 
still  greatly  troubled  by  heavy  fogs,  and  while  pass- 
ing over  a  space  of  open  water,  abounding  in  floe-bergs 
which  could  not  be  seen,  they  were  in  constant  danger 
of  being  lost.  Notwithstanding  all  these  obstacles, 
they  pushed  their  way  onward,  and  in  due  time 
reached  Cape  Louis  Napoleon,  Cape  Hawks,  and  Prin- 
cess Marie  Bay,  when  they  were  again  stopped  by  the 
floating  ice,  and  detained  by  the  newly  fornpied  ice. 


1 1 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


289 


b  ■ 


In  his  desire  to  comply  with  the  order  as  to  weight 
of  baggage,  Lockwood  had  left  his  seal-skin  coat  at 
Fort  Conger,  but  this  step  he  afterward  regretted,  as 
the  weather  continued  stormy,  and  he  was  greatly  ex- 
posed to  the  cold.  To  this  was  added  the  misfor- 
tune of  having  a  badly  fitti  g  seal-skin  boot  which 
gave  him  great  pain,  so  that  he  had  to  resort  to  a  pair 
of  moccasins.  When  the  boats  were  caught  in  floes 
and  detained  for  days,  the  only  exercise  available  was 
that  of  walking  over  the  level  floes.  Some  of  the 
men  were  wont  to  march  around,  under  the  light  of 
the  moon,  singing  aloud  their  wild  and  uncouth 
songs.  "When  tired  of  walking,  Lockwood  would 
creep  into  a  cozy  corner  of  the  launch,  and  pore  over 
a  pocket  copy  of  Shakespeare  which  he  had  fortunate- 
ly brought  along ;  and  then,  after  getting  into  his 
sleeping-bag,  his  thoughts  would  wander  far  away 
and  find  expression  in  such  words  as  these  :  "  What 
are  they  doing  at  home  ?  How  often  I  think  of  the 
dear  ones  there  !  The  dangers  and  uncertainties 
ahead  of  us  are  only  aggravated  by  the  thoughts 
of  the  concern  felt  by  them  on  my  account.  Most 
of  us  have  given  up  the  idea  of  getting  homo  this 
fall.'' 

On  the  3d  of  September,  while  in  the  floe  below 
Cape  Hawks,  Lieutenant  Greely  held  a  consultation 
with  Lockwood,  Kislingbury,  Pavy,  and  Brainard, 
expressing  the  opinion  that  their  situation  was  criti- 
cal, and  that  they  were  really  working  for  their 
lives.  One  of  the  suggestions  was  that  the  launch 
should  be  abandoned^  and  further  progress  made  in 


';  I 


4' 


290 


FARTHEST  NOKTH. 


the  smaller  boats  along  the  western  shore  of  the 
strait ;  but  to  this,  Greely  and  the  majority  ob- 
jected, still  hoping  that  they  might  yet  be  able  to 
reach  Littleton  Island  through  a  lead  or  over  the 
young  ice.  On  the  6th  the  hunter  Jans  killed  his 
fourth  seal,  and  was  rewarded  by  a  drink  of  rum. 
After  five  more  days  of  travel,  and  while  approaching 
Cocked-Hat  Island,  there  was  a  great  excitement  caused 
by  the  report  that  one  of  the  men  had  heard  the 
barking  of  dogs,  whereupon  guns  were  fired  and  a 
flag  displayed ;  but  all  the  commotion  ended  in  noth- 
*ng.  The  tides  were  contrary,  the  small  boat  was 
abandoned,  and  the  outlook  was  very  gloomy.  The 
faithful  Esquimaux,  Frederick,  who  had  latterly  been 
somewhat  unlucky  as  a  hunter,  now  came  to  the 
front  by  killing  a  seal  that  weighed  six  hundred 
pounds,  receiving  the  usual  drink  of  rum.  On  this 
occasion  Lockwood  mentioned  that  he  swallowed 
a  cupful  of  the  seal's  blood,  and  found  it  somewhat 
tasteless.  On  the  6th  of  September,  the  party 
after  great  labor  came  abreast  of  Victoria  Head  and 
Cape  Albert,  and  while  drifting  along  on  the  floe  the 
American  flag  was  hoisted  over  the  launch,  and  the 
fire  under  the  engine  was  put  out  to  save  coal,  Lock- 
wood  enjoying  a  little  needed  sleep.  On  the  7th 
they  came  in  sight  of  the  coast  extending  from  Alex- 
ander Harbor  to  Cape  Sabine,  and  the  impossibility  of 
proceeding  in  the  launch  becoming  apparent,  it  was 
decided  to  resort  to  sledge-travel,  two  of  the  sledges  to 
carry  a  boat  each,  and  both  of  them  to  be  drawn  by 
the  men.    When  they  were  fully  prepared  for  moving, 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


291 


it  was  found  that  ono  of  them  weighed  1,700  pounds 
and  the  other  2,100  pounds.  Owing  to  the  various 
difficulties  which  soon  beset  the  travelers,  tliey  were 
obliged  to  abandon  one  of  the  boats,  whereby  it  be- 
came necessary  to  retrace  several  sections  of  the 
journey  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  on  the  extra 
supplies,  thus  adding  greatly  to  the  fatigue  of  the 
men.  Lockwood  now  expressed  his  doubts  as  to 
whether  ho  would  live  to  write  out  his  notes,  and 
also  his  fears  that  the  floe  upon  which  the  party 
then  were,  might  take  them  down  into  Baffin's  Bay. 
Not  only  were  they  at  the  mercy  of  the  floe,  but  the 
currents  were  contrary,  sludge-ice  abundant,  and  their 
supply  of  food  reduced  to  seal-blubber,  bread,  and  tea. 
At  one  time,  strange  to  say,  their  position  in  the  straits 
was  directly  north  of  Littleton  Island,  and  nearer 
the  Greenland  coast  than  that  of  Grinnell  Land.  It 
now  seemed  to  Lockwood  that  there  was  nothing 
ahead  of  them  but  starvation  and  death,  and  yet  tho 
men  kept  up  their  spirits  in  a  manner  that  greatly  sur- 
prised him.  One  of  the  floes  upon  which  they  had 
drifted  for  many  days,  when  found  to  be  cracking  in 
one  or  two  places,  caused  the  party  to  move  upon 
another  nearer  the  shore,  and  in  a  short  time  tho 
floe  previously  occupied  was  entirely  broken  up.  On 
the  29th  of  September,  the  floe  on  which  they  were 
floating,  finally  touched  another  toward  tho  west, 
and  that  another  connected  with  the  shore,  by  which 
means  they  were  enabled  to  reach  tho  land,  very 
thankful  to  be  in  a  place  of  security  once  more.  The 
locality  was  really  a  rock  forming  a  promontory  be- 


-'  m 


292 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


twcen  two  glaciers,  and  thought  to  be  about  thirteen 
miles  directly  south  of  Cape  Sabine.  To  that  place  a 
reconnoitring  party  was  ot  once  sent,  but  the  cape 
could  not  be  reached  on  account  of  open  water  near 
it,  and  the  party  was  compelled  to  return.  In  the 
mean  time,  arrangements  were  made  for  building  out 
of  stones  and  ice  the  necessary  huts  for  ]>rotection 
during  the  coming  winter,  should  it  be  their  fate  to 
remain  there.  While  this  work  was  progressing,  it 
was  decided  that  the  daily  rations  would  have  to  be 
reduced.  Lockwood  expressed  the  opinion  that  they 
had  only  three  chances  for  their  lives  :  first,  the  chance 
of  finding  an  American  cache  at  Cape  Sabine ;  secondly, 
a  chance  of  crossing  the  straits,  here  thirty-five  miles 
wide,  when  their  provisions  were  gone  ;  thirdly,  the 
chance  of  being  able  to  kill  enough  game  for  their 
support  during  the  winter.  A  second  effort  was 
made  by  Rice  and  a  party  to  reach  Capo  Sabine,  which 
was  successful.  They  not  only  brought  news  about 
the  wreck  of  the  Proteus,  but  also  a  copy  of  the 
Army  Register  for  1883,  in  which  appeared  Lock- 
wood's  name  as  a  first  lieutenant.  Bice  also  succeed- 
ed in  discovering  the  English  cache  with  two  hundred 
and  forty  rations,  the  cache  left  by  the  Neptune  in 
1882,  and  the  stores  brought  from  the  wreck  of  the 
Proteus  in  1883,  all  of  which  information  was  hailed 
with  delight  by  the  party.  Among  the  stores  left 
by  the  Proteus,  a  newspaper  slip  was  picked  up,  from 
which  was  gathered  the  news  that  President  Garfield 
had  died  ;  that  the  Jeannette  had  been  lost ;  and  that 
serious  apprehensions  were  felt  in  the  United  States 


nOMEWARD  BOUND. 


203 


about  tho  fate  of  tlio  Grcoly  Expedition.  This  latter 
intolligcnce  gave  Lockwood  great  pain,  seeming  al- 
most prophetic,  except  in  tho  remark  **  lying  down 
under  the  great  stars  to  die  1 "  and  induced  him  to 
make  this  record  :  "  This  article  gives  me  great  pain, 
because  of  the  alarm  and  sorrow  which  must  be  felt  by 
my  dear  father  and  mother  and  sisters  on  my  behalf. 
Should  my  ambitious  hopes  bo  disappointed,  and  these 
lines  only,  meet  the  eyes  of  those  so  dear,  may  they 
not  in  thought  add  to  my  many  faults  and  failings 
that  of  ingratitude  or  want  of  affection  in  not  record- 
ing more  frequently  my  thoughts  regarding  them  1 " 

One  of  the  results  of  the  trip  made  by  Rice  to 
Cape  Sabine  was  the  selection  of  a  spot,  between  the 
cape  and  Cockcd-Uat  Island,  for  a  homo  during  tho 
approaching  winter.  Here,  officers  and  men  alike 
laboring,  a  new  hut  was  built,  which  was  forthwith 
occupied  by  the  party,  all  the  supplies  being  at  onco 
brought  from  the  camp  south  of  Cape  Sabine.  Tho 
place  where  they  now  found  themselves  established, 
Lieutenant  Greely  called  Camp  Clay,  in  honor  of 
one  of  the  party — a  grandson  of  Ilenry  Clay — who 
had  been  attached  to  the  expedition  until  it  reached 
Lady  Franklin  Bay,  whence  he  returned  home  on  ac- 
count of  his  health.  As  soon  as  the  new  hut  was 
occupied,  the  announcement  was  made  that  six  of 
the  party  were  on  the  sick  list ;  but  shortly  afterward, 
and  notwithstanding  tho  deplorable  condition  of  af- 
fairs, Lockwood  recorded  the  following  in  his  jour- 
nal:  "We  are  all  now  in  comparatively  high  spir- 
its, and  look  forward  to  getting  back  to  the  United 


i 


.;   tj 


■'i\ 


294 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


States  with  a  great  deal  of  certainty.  We  shall  have 
to  live  on  half-rations  or  less  until  April,  and  there 
will  be  shortness  of  fuel.  Many  hardships  are  ob- 
vious, but  we  all  feel  sound  again." 

On  the  23d  of  October,  twelve  of  the  party  went 
from  Camp  Clay  upon  a  visit  to  Cape  Sabine,  and, 
while  some  of  them  opened  the  English  cache  at  the 
south  side  of  Payer  Harbor,  Lockwood  built  a  cairn 
there  and  deposited  under  it,  among  other  things,  the 
records  of  the  expedition,  with  a  note  in  lead-pencil  to 
the  following  effect : 

"  October  23y  1883. — This  cairn  contains  the  origi- 
nal records  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition,  the 
private  journal  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  and  a  set  of 
photographic  negatives.  The  party  is  permanently 
encamped  at  a  point  midway  between  Cape  Sabine  and 
Cocked-Hat  Island.    All  well. 

"J.  B.  Lockwood, 
''First  Lieutenant  Tiocnty-third  Infantry, ^^ 

On  their  way  back  to  Camp  Clay,  Dr.  Pavy  met 
with  an  accident  to  one  of  his  feet,  and,  while  most 
of  the  party  went  on,  Lockwood  and  Ellison  remained 
behind  to  look  after  him.  When  night  came  on,  they 
lost  their  way,  stumbling  and  floundering  over  the 
rubble-ice  until  overcome  by  fatigue  and  hunger ;  but 
were  revived  by  a  limited  mutton  stew  on  their  ar- 
rival at  the  camp.  One  of  the  results  to  Lockwood 
of  his  Samaritan  conduct  was  an  accident  to  one  of 
his  knees,  which  gave  him  trouble  for  several  days, 
and  prevented  his  being  as  useful  as  he  desired  in 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


295 


contributing  to  the  comfort  of  the  party.  It  was 
about  this  time  that  Lieutenant  Greely  declared  his 
intention  of  reducing  the  rations,  all  assenting,  so 
that  they  might  last  until  the  1st  of  March;  and 
this  fact,  added  to  the  discovery  that  some  of  their 
meat  was  far  more  bony  than  it  should  have  been, 
caused  some  consternation.  Cold,  dampness,  dark- 
ness, and  hunger  continued  to  be  their  hourly  and 
daily  portion,  the  allowance  of  food  being  only  about 
one  fourth  of  what  they  actually  needed. 


I 


*i 


m 


XVIII. 
THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


While  the  following  pages  will  contain  necessarily 
brief  notices  of  the  life  of  the  party  during  an  entire 
winter,  they  must  conclude  with  the  record  of  the 
great  calamity  which  befell  the  band  of  heroes.  Short- 
ly after  they  found  themselves  settled  for  a  campaign 
of  idleness,  as  they  expected  it  to  be,  Lockwood  was 
again  confined  to  his  sleeping-bag  on  account  of  an 
injury  to  his  feet  which  had  not  been  properly  pro- 
tected ;  his  discomforts  being  aggravated  by  tlie  re- 
flection that  both  provisions  and  fuel  were  beginning 
to  reach  a  low-tide  level.  The  constant  hunger  which 
was  experienced  by  all  hands  went  far  to  make  their 
circumstances  dismal  and  depressing ;  while  the  only 
entertainment  that  could  be  provided  was  the  reading 
aloud,  by  one  of  the  men,  of  a  story  and  some  newspa- 
per scraps  which  Rice  had  picked  up  at  Cape  Sabine. 
A  little  excitement  was  afforded  by  a  lottery  for  the 
distribution  of  some  clothing  and  two  mattresses  which 
had  been  brought  ashore  from  the  Proteus,  one  of 
the  latter  falling  to  the  lot  of  Lockwood.  And  now 
came  a  proposition  for  a  sledge  expedition,  not  to  dis- 
cover islands,  glaciers,  fiords,  and  prominent  capes, 
but  to  go  after  the  abandoned  whale-boat  which  had 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


297 


floated  down  with  the  floe.  This  must  be  broken  up 
and  used  for  fuel.  Then  followed  another  expedi- 
tion, occupying  not  less  than  eight  days,  to  Cape  Isa- 
bella, to  obtain  one  hundred  pounds  of  preserved 
meat  left  there  by  the  English.  Feeling  the  want  of 
exercise,  Lockwood  occasionally  took  a  long  walk,  and 
on  one  occasion  was  so  hungry  when  he  returned, 
that  he  could  not  wait  for  the  regular  evening  meal, 
but  fastened  upon  a  lot  of  moldy  potatoes  which  had 
been  abandoned,  and  with  these  filled  his  stomach, 
almost  expecting  that  the  feast  would  cause  his  death. 
Some  of  the  men  went  still  further,  for,  when  a  blue 
or  a  white  fox  was  killed,  even  the  entrails  of  the  ani- 
mal were  devoured.  Food  was  the  constant  subject 
of  conversation  with  all  of  the  party  —  what  they 
would  be  able  to  get,  what  they  had  enjoyed  in  former 
years  at  their  distant  homes,  and  what  they  expected 
to  enjoy  after  their  return  from  the  North.  Not  only 
were  their  supplies  getting  lower  day  by  day,  but  the 
only  warm  thing  they  could  now  afford  was  a  cup  of 
tea,  excepting  on  Sunday,  when  they  had  a  little  rum 
with  a  bit  of  lemon. 

On  the  25th  of  November,  the  sun  disappeared  from 
view,  not  to  be  seen  again  until  the  following  Febru- 
ary, and  now  the  gloom  of  the  time  and  place  was 
greatly  increased.  On  that  day  Lockwood  recorded 
in  his  journal  the  following  :  "I  have  intended  writ- 
ing a  letter  home  recounting  my  experiences  since  leav- 
ing Fort  Conger,  but  so  far  the  discomforts  of  this  life 
have  prevented  me.  It  is  difficult  to  get  the  blubber- 
lamp  for  more  than  a  few  minutes  during  the  day,  and 


''H 

■  la 


i 


•  -t-'l 


298 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


sometimes  it  can  not  be  had  at  all.  The  lamp  is 
blown  out  every  evening  when  we  are  ready  to  retire, 
which  is  generally  about  eight  o'clock." 

Nor  were  their  troubles  in  any  way  alleviated  by 
the  discovery  that  one  of  the  men  had  been  seen,  or 
was  suspected  of,  visiting  the  store-room  to  fill  himself 
with  food — especially  despicable  thieving.  The  ex- 
pedition to  Cape  Isabella  resulted  in  finding  the  food 
which,  however,  was  abandoned  in  returning,  as  one  of 
the  men,  Ellison,  became  very  sick,  and  had  his  hands, 
feet,  and  nose  frozen.  He  was  brought  home  by  a  relief 
party  in  a  helpless  condition,  Lockwood  and  the  other 
men  of  the  party  having  completely  worn  themselves 
out  by  exposure  to  the  cold  and  hard  work.  As  it 
was  feared  that  the  men  would  become  insane  if  they 
did  not  stop  talking  about  food.  Lieutenant  Greely 
began  to  deliver  some  lectures  on  the  geography  of  the 
United  States  and  their  natural  productions  ;  and  this 
was  followed  by  miscellaneous  discussions  in  regard 
to  places  for  business.  Whistler,  for  example,  praised 
the  city  of  Independence,  in  Kansas,  as  a  splendid 
place  ;  Long  said  he  was  going  to  set  up  a  restaurant 
at  Ann  Arbor  in  Michigan  ;  Fredericks  would  follow 
suit  at  Minneapolis  in  Minnesota ;  while  Jewell 
counted  upon  a  grocery-store  in  Kansas. 

After  commenting  upon  the  terrible  weather, 
Lockwood  gave  expression  to  the  following  :  "  These 
short  rations  make  me  feel  the  cold  dreadfully.  It  is 
a  constant  effort  to  keep  one's  hands  and  feet  comfort- 
able, or  even  comparatively  so.  I  find  my  spirits  first 
up  and  then  down.    Sometimes,  when  I  think  of  the 


n 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


209 


I  by 
I,  or 


months  before  us  of  this  life  of  misery  and  suffering, 
I  do  not  see  how  we  can  possibly  pull  through.  At 
other  times  I  feel  much  more  hopeful ;  but  this  is  a 
life  of  inexpressible  misery." 

For  several  days  before  the  arrival  of  Thanksgiving- 
day,  a  great  feast  was  anticipated  and  on  that  day  en- 
joyed, including  a  favorite  dish  called  by  them  "  son- 
of-a-gun,"  composed  of  bread,  raisins,  milk,  and  a  lit- 
tle blubber  ;  nor  did  the  exiles  omit  the  reading  of  a 
few  chapters  from  the  Bible.  In  the  evening  Lock- 
wood  entertained  the  party  with  his  experiences  aa  a 
farmer  at  Annapolis,  all  being  interested,  and  he  wound 
up  by  inviting  the  whole  of  the  company  to  assem- 
ble there  and  enjoy  a  dinner  with  him  on  the  next 
Thanksgiving-day,  the  said  dinner  to  be  composed  in 
part  of  a  roast  turkey  stuffed  with  oysters  and  eaten 
with  cranberries.  In  return  for  this  compliment, 
each  one  of  the  audience  invited  Lockwood  to  partake 
with  him  of  a  feast  after  their  return  home,  and  ex- 
patiated with  great  gusto  on  the  dishes  that  he  pro- 
posed to  have  served.  The  promise  made  by  Lynn 
was  a  roasted  turkey ;  Ralston,  hot  hoe-cake ;  Ellis, 
spare-rib ;  Long,  pork-chops ;  Biederbick,  old  regi- 
ment dish  called  buffers  ;  Connell,  Irish  stew ;  Ben- 
der, a  roasted  pig  ;  Snyder,  tenderloin -steak  ;  Brain- 
ard,  peaches  and  cream ;  Fredericks,  black  cake  and 
preserves ;  Saler,  veal  cutlets  ;  Whistler,  flapjacks 
and  molasses  ;  Jewell,  roasted  oysters  on  toast ;  Rice, 
clam-chowder ;  Israel,  hashed  liver  ;  Gardiner,  Vir- 
ginia pone ;  Ellison,  Vienna  sausage  ;  Pavy,  pdte-de- 
fois-gras ;   Henry,   Hamburg    steak  ;   Kislingbury, 


f 


|] 


300 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


hashed  turkey,  chicken,  and  veal;  Greely,  Parker 
House  rolls,  coilee,  cheese,  omelette,  rice,  and  chicken 
curry.  It  was  after  this  jolly  discussion  of  imaginary 
good  things  that  the  party  sat  down  to  a  stew  of  seal- 
blubber  and  nothing  more.  The  next  day  Lockwood 
partook  of  his  first  dish  of  seal-skin  which  he  found 
as  hard  to  digest  as  it  was  difficult  to  swallow. 

On  one  occasion,  when  nearly  all  were  asleep,  a 
scratching  noise  was  heard  upon  the  roof,  and  it  was 
ascertained  that  a  blue  fox  was  trying  to  make  an 
entrance.  The  same  night  the  ears  of  the  sleepers 
were  saluted  by  a  loud  roar,  caused  by  the  ice  mov- 
ing down  the  straits,  a  sound  most  terrible  to  human 
nerves.  At  one  time,  after  Lockwood  had  expressed 
his  gratitude  for  enjoying  warm  feet  for  a  whole 
night,  he  resumed  the  subject  of  food,  and  then 
penned  the  following  :  "  My  mind  dwells  constantly 
on  the  dishes  of  my  childhood  at  home.  0  my  dear 
home,  and  the  dear  ones  there !  Can  it  be  possi- 
ble I  shall  some  day  see  them  again,  and  that  these 
days  of  misery  will  pass  away  ?  My  dear  father,  is  he 
still  alive  ?  My  dear  mother  and  sisters,  Harry,  and 
my  nieces  and  brothers-in-law,  how  often  do  I  think  of 
them  I  Only  three  days  more  to  the  top  of  the  hill !" 
(alluding  to  the  longest  night,  or  winter  solstice). 

"  As  to  my  bread,  I  always  eat  it  regretfully.  If 
I  eat  it  before  tea,  I  regret  that  I  did  not  keep  it ;  and 
if  I  wait  until  tea  comes  and  then  eat  it,  I  drink  my 
tea  rather  hastily  and  do  not  get  the  satisfaction 
out  of  the  cold  meat  and  bread  I  otherwise  would. 
What  a  miserable  life,  where  a  few  crumbs  of  bread 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


301 


II 


weigh  so  heayily  on  one's  mind  I  It  seems  to  be  so 
with  all  the  rest.  All  sorts  of  expedients  are  tried  to 
cheat  one*s  stomach,  but  with  about  the  same  result. 
By  way  of  securing  the  idea  of  a  warm  piece  of 
meat,  I  sometimes  pour  upon  it  a  bit  of  my  hot  tea, 
but  the  effort  proves  futile." 

On  the  21st  of  December,  the  day  which  Lock- 
wood  had  long  been  anticipating  with  pleasure,  he  ex- 
pressed his  gratification  in  these  words  :  '*  The  top  of 
the  hill !  the  most  glorious  day  of  this  dreary  journey 
through  the  valley  of  cold  and  hunger  has  at  last 
come,  and  is  now  nearly  gone.  Thank  God,  the  glo- 
rious sun  commences  to  return,  and  every  day  gets 
lighter  and  brings  him  nearer  I  It  is  an  augury  that 
we  shall  yet  pull  through  all  right."  In  view  of  his 
ultimate  fate,  how  unutterably  touching  are  these 
hopeful  words ! 

Before  the  close  of  that  day,  however,  he  made 
another  record  in  his  journal,  which  forcibly  illus- 
trates their  deplorable  condition,  as  follows  : 

**  Had  a  good  fox-stew  this  evening.  By  a  great 
effort  I  was  able  to  save  one  ounce  of  my  bread  and 
about  two  ounces  of  butter,  for  Christmas.  I  shall 
make  a  vigorous  effort  to  abstain  from  eating  it  before 
then.  Put  it  in  charge  of  Biederbick  as  an  addi- 
tional safeguard." 

Among  the  entertainments  enjoyed  by  the  party 
were  lectures  by  Lieutenant  Greely  on  the  several 
States  of  the  Union.  After  one  of  them,  on  Louisi- 
ana, had  been  delivered,  Lockwood  added  to  it  an 
account  of  his  trip  from  Baltimore  to  Texas,  and 


I ' 


i   w 


■   E 


I 


302 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


that  from  New  Orleans  to  Cincinnati,  all  of  which 
narrative  was  well  received. 

For  several  days  before  Christmas,  all  were  eagerly 
looking  forward  to  the  grand  forthcoming  dinner  and 
talking  about  it,  a  number  of  them,  like  Lockwood, 
saving  up  a  part  of  their  scanty  daily  allowance  for 
the  occasion.  Lockwood  mentioned  that  when  ho 
proposed  to  exchange  the  promise  of  a  fine  Christ- 
mas-dinner on  their  return  home  for  a  piece  of  dog- 
biscuit  delivered  at  once,  he  found  no  one  ready 
to  accept  his  liberal  offer.  The  Christmas-dinner 
was  similar  to  that  on  Thanksgiving-day ;  various 
songs  were  sung,  and,  at  the  close  of  the  feast,  hearty 
cheers  were  given  for  Lieutenant  Greely,  Corporal 
Ellison,  Eice  the  photographer,  and  the  two  cooks. 

On  Christmas-night  all  the  party  enjoyed  a  re- 
freshing sleep,  and  the  next  day  there  was  much  talk 
about  the  distant  homes  and  friends.  Lockwood  was 
greatly  pleased  to  learn  that  his  comrades  had  formed 
a  high  opinion  of  his  father  from  what  Greely  and  he 
had  occasionally  told  them  ;  and,  while  describing  the 
family  reunions  in  Washington,  he  was  affected  to 
tears  for  the  first  time  during  his  Northern  campaign, 
excepting  when  Kice  had  come  from  Esquimaux 
Point  with  the  Garlington  records,  when  his  tears 
were  the  result  of  gratitude. 

In  a  region  where  eating  had  become  pre-eminently 
the  chief  end  of  man,  it  is  not  strange  that  the  busi- 
ness of  marketing  should  have  become  popular.  How 
it  was  managed  may  be  gathered  from  the  following 
paragraph  :  "To-day  has  been  a  market-day,  every- 


TOE  PINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


303 


body  trading  rations  —  bread  for  butter,  meat  for 
bread,  bread  for  soup,  etc.  A  great  deal  of  talking 
done,  but  not  many  solid  trades  made.  I  traded 
about  half  of  my  to-morrow's  son-of-a-gun  for  about 
eight  ounces  of  bread ;  then  I  gave  Brainard  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  for  two  dog-biscuits,  but 
my  trading  did  not  prove  profitable." 

As  for  New-Year's-day,  it  came  and  departed  with- 
out any  special  demonstrations  :  the  son-of-a-gun  was 
enjoyed  by  all  parties  ;  many  of  the  ice-bound  hearts 
were  warmed  by  memories  of  home  ;  and  Greely  and 
Lockwood  had  a  long  talk  about  the  condition  of  af- 
fairs, and  the  prospects  for  the  future. 

The  business  of  trading  among  the  explorers  be- 
ing discouraged,  did  not  long  continue,  but  was  suc- 
ceeded by  some  other  importations  from  civilization, 
viz.,  the  taking  of  property  of  other  people  without 
leave  or  license.  A  report  was  made  to  Lieutenant 
Greely  that  some  one  had  taken  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  bacon,  left  in  the  stearin  by  the  cook  ;  also  that  a 
barrel  of  bread  had  been  broken  open  and  two  pounds 
taken  away.  This  proved  that  the  bears  and  the 
foxes  were  not  the  only  thieves  to  be  found  in  the 
Arctic  regions.  The  man  suspected  of  the  deed  was 
closely  watched  and  had  a  narrow  escape  from  being 
properly  punished. 

On  the  10th  of  January,  the  case  of  poor  Corporal 
Ellison  was  again  brought  up  for  discussion  and 
prompt  action.  It  had  been  hoped  that  his  frosted 
feet  would  be  restored  to  their  normal  condition,  but 
this  was  not  to  be,  for  they  were  both  amputated  by 


% 


304 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Nature,  and  two  of  his  fingers  besides.  Strange  to  say, 
this  was  accomplished  without  his  being  aware  of  what 
was  taking  place,  so  little  vitality  remained  in  these 
parts.  When  we  recall  the  sujBferings  of  this  man,  in 
connection  with  his  surroundings  and  his  distance 
from  the  comforts  of  home,  we  must  conclude  that 
the  stories  of  fiction  can  not  eclipse  the  wonders  of 
actual  life  and  experience.  What  a  combination  there 
of  cold  and  hunger,  bodily  pain  and  mental  anguish, 
darkness  and  perpetual  storms  I 

As  we  pass  over  the  daily  records  made  by  Lock- 
wood  in  his  journal  at  this  particular  time,  wo  find 
food  and  the  dangers  of  starvation  to  be  the  absorb- 
ing themes.  It  seems  strange  that,  in  a  land  of  ice 
and  snow,  there  should  have  been  any  apprehensions 
about  a  sufficient  supply  of  drinking-water ;  but  this 
was  the  case  and  the  fact  came  home  to  the  exiles  when 
they  found  that  their  supply  of  tea  had  to  bo  reduced 
to  half  a  cup  per  man.  Good  water  was  not  only 
scarce,  but  could  not  be  obtained  from  the  neighbor- 
ing lake,  their  sole  dependence,  without  great  toil  in 
chopping  away  the  ice.  They  had  the  ice,  of  course, 
but  there  was  not  sufficient  fuel  to  reduce  it  to  a 
liquid. 

As  they  could  keep  warm  only  by  remaining  in 
their  sleeping-bags,  the  manner  of  visiting  each  other 
was  simply  to  exchange  sleeping-bags  ;  and  thus,  when 
Lockwood  wanted  to  have  a  talk  with  Greely,  one 
of  the  companions  of  the  latter  would  exchange  bags 
with  the  visitor. 

On  the  18th  of  January,  another  cloud  was  thrown 


THE  FIN.VL  CATASTROPHE. 


805 


in 


upon  the  party  by  the  death  of  Cross.  He  died  of  a 
kind  of  heart-disease,  induced,  it  was  supposed,  by 
intemperance  in  drinking.  For  several  hours  before 
his  death  he  uttered  low  moans  which  seemed  a  kind 
of  echo  from  the  grinding  of  the  far-off  ice-fields.  His 
remains  were  enveloped  in  coffee-sacks  and  an  Ameri- 
can flag,  and  deposited  in  a  stony  grave  near  the  neigh- 
boring lake,  the  only  funeral  remarks  having  been 
made  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

On  the  21st,  Lockwood  had  a  talk  with  Greely 
about  his  own  health  ;  said  he  was  very  weak,  and  had 
been  so  for  two  weeks,  but  had  not  mentioned  it  for 
fear  of  depressing  the  men  ;  he  could  not  account  for 
it,  and  concluded  by  saying  that  if  he  should  not  be 
well  or  better  when  the  time  came  to  make  the  con- 
templated passage  of  the  straits,  ho  desired  to  be  left 
behind  with  his  share  of  the  rations,  and  then  be  sent 
for  from  Littleton  Island.  To  this  Greely  replied 
that  he  would  never  harbor  such  an  idea  for  a  sin- 
gle moment ;  that  he  would  never  abandon  a  living 
soul. 

On  the  2d  of  February,  Rice  and  Jans  started  to 
test  the  passage  of  the  straits,  hoping  to  reach  Little- 
ton Island,  where  they  expected  to  find  some  provis- 
ions or  a  relief-ship.  But,  alas  !  they  were  stopped 
by  open  water,  and  not  successful,  though  they  trav- 
eled about  fifty  miles  up  and  down  the  floes,  and  were 
absent  four  days.  Owing  to  the  bad  weather,  they 
did  not  even  get  a  glimpse  of  the  coast  of  Greenland. 
All  were  greatly  disappointed,  and  some  felt  that 
death  from  starvation  was  staring  them  in  the  face  ; 


'si 


300 


FARTHEST  NORTU. 


and  yot  they  found  Romo  relief  in  the  increased  light 
preceding  the  reappearance  of  the  eun.  Lockwood, 
who  now  became  despondent  and  apathetic,  endeav- 
ored to  peer  into  the  future,  and  wondered  whether 
his  bones  were  really  to  be  left  in  the  Arctic  regions. 
lie  mourned  over  the  fact  that  ho  had  not  been  as 
good  a  son  and  as  kind  a  brother  as  he  might  have 
been,  and  hoped  that  the  dear  ones  at  homo  would 
remember  him  as  he  wished  to  be,  and  not  as  he  had 
been.  As  to  the  end,  he  hoped  it  would  come  soon, 
whatever  it  might  be ;  and  he  declared  himself  pos- 
sessed by  a  feeling  of  indifference  to  hunger,  cold, 
and  gloom,  "  all  of  them  enemies  of  existence." 
After  mourning  over  the  approaching  fate  of  Ellison, 
he  recorded  these  touching  words :  **  How  often  I 
think  of  the  dear  ones  at  home,  the  Sunday  evening 
reunions,  and  all  the  bright  and  happy  pictures  that 
present  themselves  I  My  dear,  good  old  father  I  may 
he  look  with  charity  on  my  many  short-comings  I  My 
dear  mother  and  sisters  and  Harry,  brothers-in-law, 
and  nieces  I  I  trust  that  they  are  well  and  happy, 
and,  if  I  do  not  pull  through  this,  will  learn  to  look 
on  my  memory  kindly  I "  An  allusion  that  he  now 
made  to  his  companions  in  suffering  was  to  this  ef- 
fect :  "  The  party  presents  a  bold  front,  and  is  not 
wanting  in  spirit.  If  our  fate  is  the  worst,  I  do  not 
think  we  shall  disgrace  the  name  of  Americans  and  of 
soldiers."  The  attempt  of  Rice  to  cross  the  straits  to 
Littleton  Island  was  heroic  in  the  extreme,  and  his 
pluck  was  further  exemplified  by  a  proposition  that  ho 
submitted  to  Greely  to  make  a  second  effort  to  cross 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


807 


ft 


the  straits,  and  that,  too,  unattended  by  any  com- 
panion ;  but  the  idea  was  not  sanctioned. 

On  the  22d  of  February,  strange  to  say,  a  raven 
made  its  appearance  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Arctic 
camp,  but  was  not  killed,  although  it  might  have 
been  enjoyed  at  the  forthcoming  dinner.  It  must 
have  been  a  great  relief  to  some  of  the  party  that  it 
disappeared  without  uttering  its  dreadful  cry,  ^^Never- 
more !  "  as  translated  by  the  poet,  Poe. 

On  the  27th,  not  knowing  what  might  happen  to 
him,  Lockwood  wrote  the  following  in  his  journal : 
**  The  chronometer  in  my  pocket  is  the  one  used  on 
the  trip  to  83°  24'  and  on  all  my  trips  in  this  region. 
My  intention  is  to  buy  it,  but,  in  case  I  do  not  get 
back,  I  would  have  it  purchased  and  kept  in  the  fam- 
ily." 

When  the  sun  first  made  its  appearance  above  the 
horizon,  as  it  carried  his  mind  away  to  his  far-distant 
home,  he  gave  expression  to  this  emotion  :  "  0  God  I 
how  many  years  of  my  life  would  I  give  to  be  there  I " 

Every  day,  observations  were  made  from  neighbor- 
ing elevations  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  the  straits 
separating  them  from  the  Greenland  coast  which  was 
distinctly  visible  in  clear  weather,  hoping  without 
hope  to  see  it  frozen  over  from  shore  to  shore  ;  but  the 
lateness  of  the  season  precluded  all  reasonable  expecta- 
tion of  such  a  result,  and  the  daily  reports  of  open 
water  were  depressing  in  the  extreme.  On  the  13th 
of  March,  the  announcement  was  made  that  the  sup- 
plies of  coffee,  chocolate,  and  canned  vegetables  were 
all  exhausted,  and  that  henceforth  they  would  have 


iv 


808 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


to  depend  almost  entirely  on  pemmican,  bacon,  bread, 
and  tea,  all  of  which,  though  given  in  one-third  ra- 
tions only,  would  not  last  for  more  than  a  month,  thus 
leaving  them  without  supplies  to  cross  the  straits  in 
the  event  of  a  satisfactory  freeze.  In  view  of  all  these 
circumstances,  it  is  impossible  to  imagine  how  they 
could  quietly  continue  their  preparations  for  a  journey 
to  the  supposed  goal  at  Littleton  Island.  Surely  the 
hope  which  inspired  the  sufferers  was  eternal  and  su- 
preme in  its  strength  and  pathos.  "  The  straits,"  said 
Lockwood,  **are  open,  and  I  see  no  prospect  of  their 
freezing  so  that  we  can  got  across.  Of  course,  I  hope 
to  the  contrary ;  for  this  means  death,  if  we  can 
find  no  game  here."  On  a  subsequent  day  he  writes 
as  follows :  "  We  look  to  the  end  with  equanimity, 
and  the  spirits  of  the  party,  in  spite  of  the  prospect 
of  a  miserable  death,  are  certainly  wonderful.  I  am 
glad  as  each  day  comes  to  an  end.  It  brings  us  nearer 
the  end  of  this  life,  whatever  that  end  is  to  be." 

On  the  23d  of  March,  the  last  of  the  regular  fuel 
was  exhausted,  and  the  food  was  so  nearly  gone 
that  the  men  actually  began  to  collect  their  seal-skin 
clothing  and  foot-gear  for  any  emergency  that  might 
happen.  Game  was  not  only  scarce,  but  the  men  were 
getting  almost  too  weak  to  endure  a  hunt.  To  avoid 
long  tramps,  which  were  sure  to  be  unsuccessful,  they 
turned  their  attention  to  shrimp-fishing,  but,  as  one 
man  could  only  get  three  pounds  in  one  day,  the 
prospect  in  this  direction  was  not  hopeful. 

During  the  month  of  March  and  the  early  part  of 
April,  there  was  nothing  done  by  the  able-bodied  mem- 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


309 


bers  of  the  party  but  to  try  to  secure  some  game,  the 
only  incidents  occurring  to  interrupt  the  monotony 
being  the  deaths  of  the  Esquimaux  Frederick  Chris- 
tiansen, and  Sergeant  Lynn.  The  former  had  been 
complaining  for  a  weel.  or  more,  but  nobody  thought 
him  in  danger,  and  he  died  unexpectedly.  Lock- 
wood's  tribute  to  him  was  to  this  effect :  "  He  was  a 
good  man,  and  I  felt  a  great  affection  for  him.  Ho 
constantly  worked  hard  in  my  service,  and  never 
spared  himself  on  our  sledge-trips.  His  death  makes 
me  feel  very  sorrowful."  He  was  buried  by  the  side 
of  Cross,  near  the  lake.  The  death  of  Lynn  was  also 
unexpected.  He  fully  appreciated  his  condition,  and 
gave  some  directions  regarding  his  last  wishes.  Ho 
was  much  liked,  and  highly  spoken  of  by  all.  After 
the  burial  service  had  been  read  at  the  house  by  Lieu- 
tenant Greely,  his  remains  were  also  placed  by  the 
lake-side  with  those  of  Cross  and  the  Esquimaux. 

The  drama  was  about  to  close,  the  curtain  already 
falling  upon  the  band  of  heroes  : 

"  And  their  hearts,  though  stout  and  brave, 
Still,  like  muffled  drums  were  beating 
Funeral  marches  to  the  grave." 

The  phantom  of  Starvation,  which  had  long  been 
following  them  over  the  ice  and  snow,  and  dallying 
with  their  hopes  and  fears  as  they  lay  in  their  com- 
fortless camps,  had  now  become  a  terrible  reality, 
determined  to  assert  all  his  powers.  Three  of  his 
victims  were  already  under  the  snow,  and  were  soon 
followed  by  several  others,  including  the  one  who  had 


310 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


directed  them  in  many  of  their  duties  and  befriended 
them  in  trouble,  and  whose  honored  name,  attached 
to  a  noted  island  and  a  famed  headland  in  the  Arctic 
world,  will  be  foreyer  remembered  with  pride  and  af- 
fection by  his  countrymen. 

The  concluding  paragraph  in  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood's  journal  was  written  on  the  7th  of  April,  1884, 
and  alludes  to  the  sickness  and  death  of  his  two 
comrades.  In  the  last  allusion  that  he  makes  to  him- 
self, he  speaks  of  his  excessive  weakness,  and  of  the 
fact  that  he  could  not  rise  from  his  sleeping-bag  with- 
out great  difficulty.  Hi?  death  occurred  two  davs 
afterward. 

Having  been  permitted  to  examine  an  elaborate 
and  interesting  journal  kept  by  Sergeant  Brainard,  a 
few  notices  relating  to  the  closing  days  and  the  death 
of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  are  reproduced,  as  follows  : 

January  12 ^  188 Ji^ — Lieutenant  Lockwood  is  very 
weak.  He  has  been  saying  the  greater  portion  of  his 
bread  and  meat  for  several  days,  and  talks  to  himself 
about  food.  He  frequently  looks  intently  at  the  lamp, 
and  requests  that  it  be  kept  bi^rning  all  night. 

January  20th. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  is  growing 
weaker  and  weaker.  He  said  to  me  a  few  days  ago, 
''Brainard,  I  have  lost  my  grip,"  meaning  that  he 
had  lost  his  last  hope  of  life. 

January  2^th. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  soems  to  be 
in  better  spirits  to-day. 

January  28th, — The  doctor  said  to-day  that  if 
Lieutenaat  Lockwood  did  not  brace  up,  he  would 
never  recover. 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


311 


January  30th. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  is  growing 
steadily  weaker,  and  talks  but  seldom  now.  I  wish 
he  would  try  to  be  more  cheerful. 

February  ISth. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  is  better, 
but  does  not  improve  so  rapidly  as  I  would  wish. 

April  Mh. — The  rations  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
and  Linn  have  been  increased  to  one  fourth  of  a  dove- 
kie  each  per  day. 

April  oth. — I  am  afraid  that  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
and  Linn  will  soon  follow  the  faithful  Esquimaux, 
who  has  just  died.  They  can  not,  or  they  will  not, 
eat  sh'-imps  any  more.  Although  they  are  both  given 
an  extra  allowance  of  dovekie,  it  is  not  sufficient  to 
restore  them. 

April  I  til, — Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Jewell  will 
soon  follow  Linn.  They  are  very  weak  and  failing 
rapidly. 

April  8th. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  fell  in  a  faint 
in  the  alley-way,  and  much  difficulty  was  experienced 
in  resuscitating  him. 

April  9th. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  became  uncon- 
scious at  an  early  hour  this  morning,  and  at  4.20  p.  m. 
he  breathed  his  last.  His  end  was  painless  and  with- 
out a  struggle.  This  will  be  a  sad  and  unexpected 
blow  to  his  family,  who  evidently  idolized  him.  To 
me  it  is  also  a  sorrowful  event.  He  had  been  my  com- 
panion during  long  and  eventful  excursions,  and  my 
feelings  toward  him  were  akin  to  those  of  a  brother. 
Biederbick,  who  was  witi}  him  at  the  last  moment, 
and  I  straightened  his  limbs  and  prepared  his  re- 
mains for  burial.  It  is  the  saddest  duty  I  have  ever 
14 


m 


I  'i 


it 


m 


W: 


I 


312 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


been  called  on  to  perform,  and  I  hope  I  may  never 
experience  the  like  again.  A  few  days  prior  to  his 
death  he  had  spoken  of  writing  to  his  family,  but, 
owing  to  weakness,  had  deferred  the  matter  until  too 
late. 

April  10th. — The  last  sad  rites  were  performed 
over  the  remains  of  our  late  comrade,  and  he  was  in- 
terred with  the  others  on  Cemetery  Ridge,  Lieutenant 
Greely  reading  the  Episcopal  service. 

To  the  above  may  be  added  the  following  remark 
made  by  Brainard  in  regard  to  his  friend  Lockwood  : 
**  The  lieutenant  was  buried  in  an  officer's  blouse.  It 
affected  me  deeply  to  pass  his  grave,  as  I  thought  of 
the  leader  of  our  little  party  which  had  carried  the 
Stars  and  Stripes  beyond  the  English  Jack ;  but  this 
feeling  soon  wore  away,  and,  as  I  had  so  many  other 
horrible  things  to  occupy  my  mind,  I  became  some- 
what indifferent." 

But  wholly  indifferent  he  could  not  be,  even  when 
he  saw  two  men  in  one  sleeping-bag,  one  of  them  a 
corpse,  and  the  other  too  weak  to  assist  in  pulling 
the  body  out  for  burial. 

Another  and  most  touching  reference  made  by 
Brainard  to  the  burial-place  of  his  friend  Lockwood 
occurs  in  his  journal  under  date  of  May  31,  1884,  and 
is  as  follows :  "  In  my  daily  journeys  r  ::ross  Cemetery 
Ridge,  it  was  but  natural  at  first  that  my  reflections 
should  be  sad  and  gloomy.  Here  lie  my  departed  com- 
rades, and  to  their  left  is  the  vacant  space  where,  in  a 
few  days,  my  own  remains  will  be  deposited  if  sufficient 
strength  remain  to  those  who  may  survive  me.     The 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


313 


brass  buttons  on  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  blouse,  worn 
bright  by  the  flying  gravel,  protruded  through  the 
scanty  covering  of  earth  which  our  depleted  strength 
barely  enabled  us  to  place  over  him.  At  first  these 
dazzling  buttons  would  awaken  thoughts  of  those 
bright  days  spent  at  Fort  Conger,  of  the  half-forgotten 
scene  of  his  death,  and  of  the  universal  sorrow  that 
was  felt  at  his  departure.  But  later  my  own  wretched 
circumstances  served  to  counteract  these  feelings,  and 
I  would  pass  and  repass  this  place  without  emotion, 
and  almost  with  indifference." 

The  supply  of  food  had  been  almost  entirely  ex- 
hausted during  the  first  few  days  of  April,  and  it  was 
impossible  to  obtain  any  game  or  rations  from  distant 
caches.  An  effort  made  by  Rice  to  secure  certain  pro- 
visions that  had  been  abandoned  on  a  former  expedi- 
tion in  order  to  l  fe  the  life  of  Ellison  when  frozen, 
resulted  in  his  own  death,  breathing  his  last  in  the 
arms  of  Fredericks,  his  only  companion,  who  buried 
him  in  a  lonely,  ice-made  grave.  Nor  were  the  hor- 
rors of  the  situation  lessened  by  the  discovery  that  the 
man  Henry  had  been  guilty  of  stealing  their  food,  for 
which,  after  ample  warning,  under  orders  from  Lieu- 
tenant C  reely,  he  was  summarily  shot,  according  to 
the  law  of  self-preservation.  His  remains  were  not 
deposited  in  the  cemetery,  but  by  themselves  in  a 
place  near  by. 

The  total  number  of  deaths  out  of  the  twenty-five 
composing  the  complete  party  of  explorers  was  nine- 
teen, and,  while  twelve  of  them  were  buried  at  Camp 
Clay,  the  remainder,  like  the  lamented  Rice,  were 


'fl 


314 


FARTEEST  NORTH. 


, 


buried  elsewhere  or  wliere  they  died.  Jans  was  lost  in 
his  kyack.  During  a  discussion  that  occurred,  about 
the  final  disposition  of  the  dead,  Lieutenant  Greely 
expressed  the  wish  that  the  remains  of  his  men  might 
be  left  undisturbed.  They  had  died,  he  said,  beneath 
Arctic  skies.  Arctic  desolation  witnessed  their  suffer- 
ings, heard  their  cries  of  anguish.  They  are  buried 
in  Arctic  soil.  Let  them  lie  where  they  fell.  Lock- 
wood  told  me  that  he  wanted  to  rest  forever  on  the 
field  of  his  work.  Why  disturb  them  ?  Why  not  re- 
spect their  wishes  ? 

Before  closing  this  chapter  it  seems  proper  that  an 
allusion  should  be  made  to  alleged  cannibalism  at 
Camp  Clay.  The  writer  of  this  was  informed  by  Ser- 
geant Brainard  that  such  might  have  been  the  case, 
but  that  not  a  single  one  of  the  survivors  had  ever 
known  or  witnessed  anything  of  the  kind.  So  far  as 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  concerned,  it  was  positively 
established,  by  unimpeachable  testimony,  that  his  re- 
mains were  not  mutilated  in  the  least  degree.  When 
carefully  carried,  with  all  the  others,  on  board  the 
ship  that  was  to  bring  them  to  the  United  States,  his 
remains  were  perfect  in  every  respect,  and  of  this  his 
father  has  the  assurance  of  those  who  saw  them. 

In  view  of  the  fact  that  Sergeant  David  L.  Brain- 
ard accompanied  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  all  his  ex- 
plorations, it  seems  only  proper  that  a  notice  of  his 
life  should  appear  in  this  volume.  He  was  born  in 
Norway,  Herkimer  County,  New  York,  December  21, 
1356,  his  parents  having  come  from  Massachusetts. 
His  father  was  of  French  extraction  and  his  mother 


THE  FINAL  CATASTROPHE. 


315 


his 


of  English  stock.  IIo  attended  a  district  school  until 
his  eleventh  year,  when  he  removed  with  his  family 
to  Freetown,  Cortland  County,  New  York,  where 
he  attended  the  State  Normal  School.  On  the  18th 
of  September,  1876,  he  enlisted  at  New  York  city 
in  the  regular  army,  being  assigned  to  Company  L, 
Second  Cavalry,  then  stationed  at  Fort  Ellis,  in  Mon- 
tana Territory.  He  joined  his  troops  late  that  year 
after  an  arduous  journey  of  five  hundred  miles  on 
horseback  from  Corinne,  Utah.  In  the  following 
spring  he  participated  in  the  Indian  campaigns  under 
General  Miles,  along  the  Yellowstone  River  and  its 
tributaries,  and  was  wounded  in  the  face  while  in  ac- 
tion with  the  Sioux,  at  Muddy  Creek,  Montana,  May 
7,  1877.  In  August  of  the  same  year,  he  was  selected 
as  one  of  four  men  to  act  as  escort  to  General  Sher- 
man and  party  in  their  tour  through  the  National 
Park.  In  October  following,  he  was  made  a  corpo- 
ral, and  in  July,  1879,  was  promoted  to  be  a  sergeant. 
He  was  frequently  in  charge  of  parties  in  the  field  on 
detached  service,  and  was  intrusted  with  important 
missions  by  his  commanding  officers.  Lieutenant 
Doane,  Second  Cavalry,  recommended  him  for  detail 
on  the  Howgate  Polar  Expedition  in  May,  1880,  Brain- 
ard  visiting  Washington  for  that  purpose.  The  enter- 
pri^e  having  been  abandoned,  he  was  ordered  back 
to  his  regiment  at  Fort  Assiniboin,  on  Milk  River. 
Early  in  the  spring  of  1881,  Lieutenant  Greely  re- 
quested his  detail  on  the  Lac/  Franklin  Bay  Expedi- 
tion, and,  on  his  arrival  in  Washington,  appointed  him 
first  sergeant  of  the   expedition,  v/hich  position  he 


I' 


316 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


held  during  the  three  years  of  Arctic  service.  On 
the  1st  of  August,  1884,  he  was  transferred,  with  the 
rank  of  sergeant,  to  the  United  States  Signal  Corps, 
having  always  acquitted  himself  with  ability  and  hon- 
or as  a  man,  a  soldier,  and  an  explores 


'  11 


XIX. 

THE  WOEFUL  RETURl^. 

Without  stopping  to  discuss  the  action  of  Con- 
gress or  the  Government  officials  in  regard  to  send- 
ing relief  to  the  Greely  Expedition,  the  writer  de- 
sires to  mention  that  the  names  of  Senator  Joseph  R. 
Hawley  and  Representative  E.  John  Ellis,  because 
of  their  manly  action  in  Congress  in  behalf  of  the 
suffering  explorers,  are  far  more  deserving  of  places 
on  the  charts  of  the  North  than  those  of  many  oth- 
ers which  have  thus  been  honored.  In  1882  a  vessel 
called  the  Neptune,  Captain  William  Sopp,  was  char- 
tered at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  and  with  a  full 
supply  of  provisions  was  dispatched  for  Lady  Frank- 
lin Bay,  but  failing  in  her  mission  returned  to  New- 
foundland without  leaving  any  of  her  supplies  in  the 
North,  but  bringing  them  all  back  to  St.  John's ! 
In  1883  the  steamer  Proteus,  Captain  Richard  Pike, 
was  rechartered  at  St.  John's,  and  with  a  full  supply 
of  provisions  sailed  for  Discovery  Harbor,  but  was 
crushed  in  the  ice  near  Cape  Sabine,  her  crew  suc- 
ceeding in  landing  ir  a  safe  place  a  small  part  of 
her  cargo,  some  of  which  was  subsequently  utilized 
by  the  Greely  party. 

In  1884  a  third  rescuing  expedition  was  organized 


I 


318 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


and  dispatched  for  the  relief  of  the  Greely  exploring 
party.  That  expedition  wa8  composed  of  a  squadron 
of  three  ships,  the  Thetis,  the  Bear,  and  the  Alert,  un- 
der the  command  of  Commander  Win  field  S.  Schley,  of 
the  United  States  Navy.  They  left  St.  John's  on  the 
13th  of  May,  and,  after  the  usual  tribulations  along 
the  western  coast  of  Greenland,  reached  the  vicinity 
of  Cape  Sabine,  and  discovered  the  Greely  party  at 
Camp  Clay,  on  Sunday,  the  22d  of  June,  seventy- 
three  days  after  the  death  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 
The  discovery  was  then  made  that,  out  of  the  twenty- 
five  men  connected  with  the  Greely  Expedition  only 
seven  wera  alive,  viz..  Lieutenant  Greely,  Brainard, 
Biederbick,  Fredericks,  Long,  Council,  and  Ellison. 
As  soon  as  the  survivors  could  be  relieved  and  trans- 
ferred to  the  ships,  the  remains  of  the  dead  were 
exhumed  with  care  and  taken  to  the  ships  for  trans- 
portation to  the  United  States,  excepting  tlie  remains 
of  Esquimaux  Frederick,  which  were  left  at  Disco. 

As  the  pictures  presented  by  the  survivors  lying 
in  their  camp,  dazed  with  suffering  and  surprise  and 
a  joy  they  could  not  manifest,  and  the  incidents  they 
subsequently  narrated  of  intense  suffering,  can  only 
prove  heart-rending  to  the  reader,  they  will  not  now 
be  dwelt  upon.  The  departure  of  the  ships,  with 
their  strange  list  of  dead  and  living  passengers, 
seemed  to  enhance  the  gloom  which  filled  the  sky  and 
rested  upon  the  sea.  Their  condition  was  so  deplor- 
able, that  a  delay  of  a  very  few  days  would  have  left 
none  to  tell  the  tale  of  woe  and  suffering.  At  least 
two  could  not  have  lived  twenty-four  hours.     That 


THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


319 


this  time  was  gained,  under  the  stimulus  of  the  twen- 
ty-five thousand  dollars  reward,  appears  from  an  arti- 
cle written  by  an  officer  of  the  Relief  Expedition  and 
published  in  the  "  Century  "  of  May,  1885,  as  fol- 
lows : 

"  The  reward  of  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  that 
Congress  had  offered  for  the  first  information  of 
Greely  had  incited  the  whalers  to  take  risks  that  they 
otherwise  would  have  shunned.  They  had  expressed 
a  determination  to  strive  for  it,  and  were  ever  on  the 
alert  for  a  chance  to  creep  northward.  The  Relief 
Squadron  was  determined,  on  its  part,  that  the  whal- 
ers should  not  secure  the  first  information,  and  were 
equally  zealous  in  pushing  northward.  It  was  this 
rivalry  (a  friendly  one,  for  our  relations  with  the 
Avhaling-captains  were  of  the  pleasantcst  nature)  that 
hurried  us  across  Melville  Bay  and  brought  us  to- 
gether within  sight  of  Cape  York.  It  had  been 
thought  possible  that  Greely  or  an  advance  party 
might  be  there." 

Mr.  Ellis  proposed  in  the  last  session  of  Congress 
that,  as  the  reward  had  not  been  spent,  yet  had  con- 
tributed to  the  rescue,  it  should  be  appropriated  to 
building,  at  Washington,  a  monument  to  the  dead. 

The  temporary  halt  at  Disco  Harbor  was  saddened 
by  the  death  of  Ellison,  after  prolonged  sufferings, 
as  if  his  noble  spirit  was  determined  to  join  its  de- 
parted comrades  in  their  passage  to  the  skies  from 
that  Northern  Land  of  Desolation. 

In  the  official  record  of  the  Relief  Expedition, 
Commander  Schley  makes  an  allusion  to  the  impor- 


! 

m 


320 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


tant  part  taken  by  Lieutenant  Lock  wood  in  the  Greely 
Expedition  which  should  be  repeated  in  this  place. 
After  submitting  certain  papers  which  had  been  found 
in  a  cairn  at  Breevort  Island,  he  says  :  **  It  was  a 
wonderful  story.  It  told  how  the  expedition,  during 
its  two  years  at  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  had  marked  out 
the  interior  of  Grinnell  Land,  and  how  Lockwood 
had  followed  the  northern  shore  of  Greenland,  and 
had  reclaimed  for  America  the  honor  of  *  the  far- 
thest north.'" 

On  Thursday,  the  17th  of  July,  the  Relief  Expedi- 
tion arrived  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  where  they 
were  kindly  welcomed,  and  the  tidings  of  their  arrival 
promptly  telegraphed  to  the  anxious  multitudes  in  the 
United  States.  Complete  arrangements  were  made 
for  the  continuous  voyage  of  the  living  and  the  dead 
to  their  several  homes. 

In  a  dispatch  which  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  sent 
to  Commander  Schley,  on  the  day  of  his  return,  he 
said,  "Preserve  tenderly  the  remains  of  the  heroic 
dead,"  and  that  order  was  duly  obeyed.  They  were 
placed  in  metallic  caskets,  and  the  squadron  sailed 
from  St.  John's  on  the  26th  of  July,  an'iving  at  Ports- 
mouth, New  Hampshire,  ci  the  2d  of  August.  As 
the  first  duty  after  a  battle  is  to  bury  the  dead,  it  is 
to  be  regretted  that  this  was  not  done  before  the  dis- 
play was  made  at  Portsmouth.  It  was  not  thus  that 
England  received  her  victorious  fleet  from  Trafalgar, 
bearing  home  the  remains  of  the  dead  hero  Nelson. 
The  mutilated  remains  of  the  dead  should  first  have 
been  delivered  over   to    the    bleeding    hearts  that 


TUE  WOEFUL  UETUIIN. 


321 


awaited  them.  While  so  many  ununicd  corpses  re- 
mained in  the  sliij)s,  the  celebration  was  but  a  ghastly 
jubilee.  Requiems  should  have  been  chanted  before 
I)a3ans  were  sung.  The  only  casket  removed  from  the 
ships  at  rort.smouth  was  that  containing  the  remains 
of  Sergeant  Jewell,  who  was  a  native  of  New  Hamp- 
shire. The  squadron  now  sailed  for  New  York,  and 
on  its  arrival,  the  8th  of  August,  was  received  with 
great  enthusiasm.  Hero  the  remains  of  the  dead 
were  delivered  to  the  custody  of  the  army  commander 
at  Governor's  Island,  by  whom  the  final  dispositions 
were  made.  The  remains  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
were  forwarded  to  Annapolis  and  placed  under  a  mili- 
tary guard,  in  the  church  of  St.  Anne,  where  the 
young  hero  had  been  baptized,  confirmed,  and  received 
his  first  communion.  The  funeral  was  of  a  military 
character,  and  the  attendance  was  very  large,  compre- 
hending all  the  naval,  military,  and  civil  organizations 
of  the  city.  Recalling  the  words  of  the  poet  Whittier, 
many  of  the  mourners  present  must  have  felt  their 
special  force,  when  he  says : 

" I  know  not  what  the  future  hath 
Of  marvel  or  surprise, 
Assured  alone  that  life  and  death 
His  mercy  underlies." 

The  remains  of  the  hero  lie  in  the  beautiful  ceme- 
tery of  the  Naval  Academy,  overlooking  the  place  of 
his  birth  and  the  scenes  of  his  childhood.  An  appro- 
priate tomb  was  erected  over  them,  bearing  this  in- 
scription : 


'?] 


322 


FARTHEST  NORTU. 


JAMES   BOOTH   LOCKWOOD, 

LIEUTENANT  UNITED   STATES  ARMY, 

Born  at  Annapolis,  Maryland, 
October  9,  1852, 

Died  at  Cape  Sabine, 
April  9,  1884. 

"  The  sufferings  of  this  present  time  are  not  worthy  to  be  com- 
pared with  the  glory  that  shall  be  revealed  in  us." 

On  the  day  that  the  rector  of  St.  Anne's  church, 
Rev.  William  S.  Southgate,  gave  notice  of  the  time 
of  the  burial,  he  made  the  following  remarks  : 

**One  of  the  truths  of  the  P'blc,  taught  us  by  the 
Church,  the  most  difficult  to  receive  and  to  hold  prac- 
tically, is  that  expressed  in  the  words  of  the  Collect 
for  the  last  week  :  '0  God,  whose  never-failing  provi- 
dence ordereth  all  things  both  in  heaven  and  on 
earth.' 

"The  difficulty  arises  from  the  fact  that  in  so 
many  cases  we  can  not  discover  either  the  justice  or 
the  mercy  or  even  the  expediency  of  that  ordering. 

"  And  yet  at  times  we  get  a  glimpse  of  light  that 
reveals  much  of  the  fitness  and  beauty  of  this  divine 
ordering  of  events.  Here  is  an  example  before  us. 
There  is  a  peculiar  appropriateness  in  the  ordering  of 
events  that  brings  James  Booth  Lockwood  here  to  be 
buried.  Born  in  this  parish,  baptized  here,  confirmed 
in  St.  Anne  by  Bishop  Whittingham,  Apr'l  19,  1868, 
he  received  his  first  communion  at  this  altar  on 
Christmas-day  of  the  same  year.  The  rector  of  the 
parish,  who  presented  him  foi  confirmation  and  ad» 


THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


323 


ministered  to  him  the  holy  communion,  has  just  been 
called  suddenly  to  his  rest.  In  the  midst  of  untiring 
labors  the  call  found  them  both  at  the  post  of  duty, 
and  both  were  taken  away  while  in  the  performance 
of  that  duty.  But  there  9cas  something  peculiarly 
sad  in  the  circumstances  and  mode  of  young  Lock- 
wood's  death — circumstances  due  partly  to  the  nature 
o*  the  work  in  which  he  was  engaged,  partly  to  the 
fault  of  others.  But  what  matters  it  how  or  when  he 
died,  if  found  at  Death's  call  doing  the  duty  assigned 
to  him  ? 

"  One  of  the  earliest  of  the  adventurers  along  this 
coast,  then  as  little  known  to  the  world  as  the  Ai'ctic 
regions  are  now  to  us,  when  his  little  ship  was  over- 
whelmed by  the  stormy  sea,  comforted  the  frightened 
and  trembling  helmsman  wuth  the  assuring  words, 
*  My  child,  heaven  is  as  near  to  us  by  sea  as  by  land.* 
And  so  what  matters  it  where  we  die  and  how  we  die, 
so  long  08  we  are  reconciled  to  God,  and  are  faithfully 
fulfilling  our  calling  ?  May  God  give  us  grace  so  to 
live  that  we  may  never  be  afraid  to  die  in  any  place 
or  in  any  manner  ! " 

That  the  story  and  the  fate  of  James  B.  Lockwood 
excited  a  profound  sentiment  of  sorrow  and  admira- 
tion throughout  the  entire  country  was  manifested 
in  many  ways,  and  a  notice  of  some  of  them  will 
form  an  appropriate  conclusion  to  this  in-memoriam 
volume.  Among  the  first  tributes  of  honor  and  affec- 
tion was  the  following  official  order  published  by  the 
colonel  of  his  regimen  announcing  his  death  to  the 
military  associates  of  tue  young  soldier  : 


i 


324: 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


[Order,  No.  46.] 

IIeadquarteks  Twenty-third  Infantry,      ) 
Fort  Wayne,  Mich.,  July  25, 1884-  S 

Another  name  is  added  to  the  list  of  our  honored 
dead.  The  official  announcement  is  received  from  the 
War  Department  of  the  death  of  First-Lieutenant 
James  B.  Lookwood,  at  Camp  Clay,  near  Cape  Sabine, 
Smith's  Sound,  Arctic  regions,  April  9,  1884.  lie 
was  assigned  to  this  regiment  as  second  lieutenant, 
October  1,  1873,  and  promoted  first  lieutenant  March 
15,  1883.  He  served  with  distinction  throughout 
Arizona,  Nebraska,  Kansas,  the  Indian  Territory,  and 
Colorado,  always  performing  with  zeal  and  thorough- 
ness the  various  and  complex  duties  that  usually  fall 
to  the  lot  of  the  young  officer.  In  1881  he  turned 
from  the  arduous  duties  and  savage  warfare  of  frontier 
life  to  face  still  greater  hardship  and  danger,  and 
finally  to  lay  down  his  life  in  those  frozen  and  inhos- 
pitable regions  which  have  proved  the  sepulchre  of  so 
many  heroes  before  him. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  a  young  officer  of  great 
promise  in  his  profession  ;  of  a  noble  and  exalted  char- 
acter, his  fine  mind  tended  constantly  to  the  investi- 
gation of  scientific  truths.  When  the  privations,  the 
suffering,  and  the  achievements  of  the  **  Lady  Frank- 
lin Bay  Expedition  "  are  fully  related,  higher  author- 
ity will  doubtless  pay  a  more  fitting  tribute  to  the 
worth,  the  fortitude,  and  the  matchless  courage  of  an 
officer  who,  in  Arctic  exploration,  has  carried  the 
American  flag  to  a  point  in  advance  of  that  of  any 
other  nation. 


i 


THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


325 


His  reward  is  an  imperishable  fame,  which  he 
sought  wila  even  greater  resolution  than  leads  the 
soldier  to  the  cannon's  mouth.  The  pleasant  smile 
and  manly  form  of  our  comrade  are  lost  to  us  forever, 
but  his  name  and  memory  will  be  always  green  in  our 
uearts. 

Officers  of  the  regiment  will  wear  the  usual  badge 
of  mourning  for  thirty  days. 
By  order  of  Colonel  Black  : 

T.  G.  M.  Smith, 
First  Lieutenant  and  Adjutant  Twenty-third  In- 
fantry. 

When  the  news  of  Lockwood's  fate  was  known  at 
Fort  Leavenworth,  Kansas,  arrangements  were  at  once 
made-  by  those  who  had  £nown  and  loved  him  there, 
to  erect  a  tablet  tc  his  memory  in  che  handsome  post 
chapel  at  that  place.  When  completed  it  was  placed 
in  a  conspicuous  position,  and  bore  the  following  in- 
scription : 

In  Memoriam 

JAMES  B.  LOCKWOOD, 

riEST  LIBUTENANT  TWENTY-THIBD  INFANTRY, 
A  MEMBislU  OF  THE 

Greelt  Polar  Expedition, 

Died  at  Cape  Sabine,  Gbinnell  Land, 

April  9,  1884. 

This  tablet  was  erected  chiefly  at  the  expense  of 
Lockwood's  old  regiment.  To  one  of  the  officers  Gen- 
eral Lockwood  presented  a  sword  that  had  belonged  to 


326 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


his  son,  and,  in  liis  acknowedgmcnt,  that  officer  made 
this  remark :  "As  a  friend  of  your  son,  I  shall  take 
pride  and  comfort  from  having  in  my  possession  the 
sword  of  a  friend,  who  lived  so  nobly  and  died  so 
honorably.  Should  you  desire  it  to  come  back  to  your 
family  when  I  have  joined  your  son,  I  hope  you  will 
tell  me  so,  and  I  will  provide  accordingly."  Among 
those  who  earnestly  co-operated  with  this  gentleman  in 
erecting  the  tablet  was  one  who  wrote  to  his  fellow- 
officer  as  follows  :  "  No  two  people,  outside  of  Lock- 
wood's  own  blood  relations,  loved  him  more  than  you 
and  I.  And  yet  I  do  not  know  that  I  am  right  in 
calling  his  end  untimely.  He  died,  as  he  had  ever 
lived,  in  the  discharge  of  his  duty,  and  I  imagine, 
when  tlie  records  of  the  expedition  become  more 
known,  it  will  be  seen  that  his  duty  was  well  done 
to  the  end.  He  was  a  man,  and  has  died  like  one. 
God  grant  that  when  our  time  comes  it  may  find  us, 
too,  in  the  discharge  of  our  duty  ! " 

During  Lieutenant  Greely's  sojourn  in  Portsmouth, 
when  on  his  way  home,  and  while  yet  too  feeble  to 
use  the  pen,  he  dictated  the  following  letter  to  Gen- 
eral Lockwood  : 

PouTSMOUTH,  N.  H.,  Augmt  P,  ISS4, 

My  dear  General  Lockwood  :  Had  I  not  seen 
Commander  Sigsbee,  and  given  to  him  such  informa- 
tion as  he  wished,  and  as  I  knew  would  be  most  im- 
portant to  you  in  regard  to  your  son,  I  should  have 
attempted  an  earlier  letter  to  you.  I  am  still  unable 
to  write  to  you  by  my  own  hand.     As  I  told  Com- 


THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


327 


, 


mander  Sigsbec,  James  died  from  water  around  the 
heart,  induced  by  insufficient  nutrition.  His  last 
days  were  quiet  and  painless.  lie  did  his  whole  duty 
as  a  soldier  and  an  officer.  His  loyalty  to  truth, 
fidelity,  and  zeal  could  always  be  relied  upon  by  me. 
His  unvarying  kindness,  his  gentleness,  his  deep  in- 
terest in  and  toward  the  men  of  the  expedition  indi- 
cated a  nature  thoroughly  imbued  with  the  essential 
and  fundamental  principles  of  Christianity,  and  won 
for  him  their  good-will,  confidence,  and  affection.  I 
feel  that  you  and  Mrs.  Lockwood  may  well  be  proud 
of  such  a  son.  His  daily  conversation  during  the  past 
winter  told  us  how  much  he  loved  his  parents,  and 
how  deep  and  close  were  the  bonds  of  affection  which 
united  him  to  his  sisters  and  brother.  He  seemed  to 
feel  that  he  had  not  done  full  justice  to  the  many  and 
great  advantages  that  you  had  given  him,  and  hoped 
to  make  amends  in  the  future.  His  innate  modesty 
in  this,  as  in  other  matters,  I  think  did  scant  justice 
to  his  true  merits.  I  write  by  Mrs.  Greely^s  hfiud — 
she  joins  me  in  sympathy  and  condolence.  I  feel  that 
this  letter  insufficiently  informs  you  regarding  James. 
From  day  to  day  he  intended  to  write  you,  but  delayed 
too  long.  His  diary,  in  short-hand,  was  kept  up,  I 
believe,  to  the  day  preceding  his  death. 

Sincerely  yours, 

A.  W.  Greely. 


1 


Another  letter  from  Portsmouth,  written  by  Ser- 
geant D.  L.  Brainard  in  answer  to  some  Inquiries 
made  by  General  Lockwood,  was  as  follows  : 


328 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  September  4,  IS84. 

General  H.  H.  Lockwood. 

Dear  Sir  :  Your  letter  of  the  32d  ult.,  request- 
ing information  of  the  missing  effects  of  your  dear 
son,  which  had  been  committed  to  my  care,  is  just 
received,  .  .  .  The  effects  in  question,  excepting  the 
ring  and  coins,  I  turned  over  to  Major  Greely  before 
leaving  this  city  in  August.  The  two  latter  articles 
I  afterward  found  and  gave  to  Mrs.  Feck,  who,  with 
her  husband,  called  on  me  at  the  Parker  House,  in 
Boston.  The  setting  of  the  ring,  I  am  sorry  to  say, 
was  not  found  after  his  death,  although  diligent  search 
was  made.  He  had  spoken  of  it  but  a  few  days  before 
his  death,  and  expressed  great  concern  for  its  safety. 
It  was  supposed  to  be  suspended  from  his  neck  in  a 
small  parcel,  but  search  revealed  nothing.  The  com- 
pass was  among  the  effects  I  transferred  to  Lieutenant 
Greely,  as  were  also  two  pencils,  his  pipe,  spoon,  knife, 
etc.  With  reference  to  the  inner  life  of  your  son,  do 
not  feal  any  concern.  Although  not  an  open  professor 
of  any  particular  creed,  he  followed  closely  the  golden 
rule  during  my  acquaintance  with  him.  When  I 
reach  Washington  I  shall  be  glad  to  call  on  you.  In 
the  mean  time  I  shall  willingly  answer  any  question 
with  regard  to  his  life  in  the  frigid  zone  that  you  may 
desire  to  ask.  Place  no  reliance  on  any  of  the  adverse 
newspaper  reports  that  are  occasionally  seen  reflecting 
on  his  conduct ;  they  are  not  worthy  of  a  moment's 
thought.  Hoping  that  the  articles  have  reached  you 
in  safety  ere  this,  I  am,  very  sincerely  yours, 

D.  L.  Brai]s"AED. 


^ 


THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


329 


AnotlitT  and  a  very  handsome  letter  sent  to  Gen- 
eral Lockwood  by  an  officer  of  the  army,  who  had 
long  known  the  son,  was  as  follows  : 


, 


"  San  Antonio,  Fla.,  July  /?5,  IS84. 

"  My  dear  General  :  The  newspapers  tardily 
convey  to  me  the  news  of  your  son's  heroic  death.  I 
can  not  express  to  you  how  much  both  my  wife  and 
myself  were  affected  by  this  intelligence.  I  knew 
your  sou  from  his  entry  into  the  Twenty-third  Infant- 
ry in  1873  until  I  was  promoted  to  the  Twenty-sec- 
ond in  1879,  and  formed  so  high  an  estimate  of  his 
sterling  soldierly  character  that  it  is  inexpressibly  sad 
to  think  of  his  career  being  cut  short  at  so  early  an 
age.  But,  though  early,  he  has  nevertheless  left  his 
mark  on  the  scientific  record  of  the  country — a  rec- 
ord which  can  never  perish  while  the  frozen  .North 
continues  to  hold  the  secrets  he  has  m.oru  nearly 
penetrated  than  any  other  explorer  of  those  regions. 
This  must  be,  my  dear  general,  some  consolation  to 
you,  though  I  well  know  that  it  can  not  wholly  atone 
for  the  loss  of  your  noble  son.  But,  as  time  passes, 
this  reflection  may  soften  your  paternal  grief. 

"A  life-work  need  not  extend  to  the  allotted 
threescore  years  and  ten.  In  the  providence  of  God 
it  often  compasses  a  much  smaller  period  of  time  ; 
when  it  is  accomplished,  God  calls  the  worker  home. 

"Who  shall  measure  the  work  your  son  accom- 
plished in  the  examples  he  gave  of  fidelity  to  duty,  of 
heroic  fortitude  ?  How  many  fainting  souls  in  the 
future,  reading  of  his  devotion,  will  be  strengthened 


330 


FARTHEST  NORTH. 


to  go  forward  in  the  paths  marked  out  for  them  1 
That  your  grief  may  be  in  time  assuaged  by  these  rc- 
flec lions  is  the  praj  r  devoutly  offered  by  your  sin- 
cere friend." 

Many  private  letters  of  condolence  and  sympathy 
were  written  to  the  parents  of  the  deceased,  by  per- 
sonal friends  and  others,  some  of  which  serve  to  illus- 
trate the  character  of  the  departed.  One  of  these 
friends  wrote  as  follows  : 

**  The  tender  regard  and  sincere  love  I  had  for 
James  prompts  mo  to  write  to  you  and  express  my 
heart-felt  sorrow  in  losing  him.  We  were  dear  friends 
for  years,  and  a  moro  upright  and  honorable  man 
never  lived,  and  our  regiment  has  lost  a  member  who 
can  never  be  replaced,  and  the  memory  of  him  who 
died  far  away  from  us  can  never  be  forgotten." 
In  ar«oLher  letter  a  friend  wrote  as  follows  : 
"Dr.  B ,  U.  S.  A.,  one  of  James's  most  inti- 
mate and  best  friends,  desires  me  to  say  that,  of  all  the 
men  he  knew,  James  was  to  him  far  dearer  than  any 
other.  As  for  myself,  I  shall  always  hold  James  dear 
to  ray  heart,  and  hope  some  day,  when  all  things  pass 
away,  to  meet  him  in  that  happy  land  where  our  loved 
ones  are  gone." 

In  another  letter  occurs  the  foli owing  : 
"Lockwood  was  among  the  be^t  young  officeis  of 
the  regiment.  Very  attentive  to  duty,  and  correct  in 
habits,  his  promise  of  usefulness  was  unusually  great. 
I  hope  that  the  knowledge  of  duty  well  performed, 
and  under  the  most  trying  circumstances,  may  in 
some  degreu  ameliorate  your  great  grief." 


1 


I 


THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


331 


f 


Another  friend  writes  : 

"I  but  echo  the  feelings  of  all  in  the  Twenty- 
third  Infantry  who  knew  your  son,  in  saying  that 
your  great  loss  is  partly  theirs.  His  kindly  and  gener- 
ous impulses,  his  sterling  integrity,  and  his  thorough- 
ness as  an  officer  and  a  gentleman,  secured  and  retained 
for  him  the  substantial  good-will  and  friendship  of 
all.  And  while  we  may  grieve  at  the  mournful  end 
of  his  career,  yet  this  feeling  is  somewhat  neutralized 
in  the  melancholy  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  he 
died  on  the  field  of  honor." 

In  another  letter  from  one  who  had  been  in  the 
army  and  on  the  staff  of  General  Lockwood  at  Acco- 
mac,  Va.,  occurs  the  following  most  admirable  and 
appropriate  passage  :  "  I  do  believe,  dear  general, 
that  all  is  well  with  your  son.  Standing  where  no 
human  footstep  had  ever  trod  before,  seeing  what  no 
eye  had  ever  before  beheld,  alone  amid  the  awful  si- 
lence of  that  frozen  deep — alone  with  God — there 
must  have  been  communings  with  the  Holy  One  of 
more  import  to  James  than  all  else  besides.  And  at 
the  last  day  you  will  again  see  your  son  in  glory,  wear- 
ing the  crown  of  those  made  perfect  through  suffer- 
mg." 

Besides  the  many  letters  written  by  personal 
friends,  there  were  others  from  perfect  strangers,  who 
had  either  served  under  General  Lockwood  in  the 
army,  or  been  especially  interested  in  the  fate  of  the 
youthful  hero. 

Among  the  strangers  who  wrote  letters  of  con- 
dolence was  the  Kev.  William  E.  Griffis,  D.  D.,  of 


332 


FARTII£fc)T  NOfiTH. 


Schenectady,  N.  Y.,  who  had  preached  a  sermon  on 
the  conquests  of  peace,  and  in  which  he  made  the 
following  allusion  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  :  "  The 
laurels  that  repose  on  the  memory  of  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  are  better  than  battle-honors  or  wreaths 
after  bloody  victories."  It  was  his  opinion  that  the 
Arctic  secret  would  yet  be  won  ;  and  that  Lockwood 
and  his  brother  heroes  were  doing  the  will  of  God  as 
explorers  in  the  far  North. 

On  the  20th  of  July,  1884,  the  Rev.  Dr.  John  S. 
Lindsay,  of  St.  John^s  Church,  in  Georgetown,  deliv- 
ered a  sermon  in  which  he  alluded  to  the  return  of 
the  Greely  Expedition,  and  especially  to  Lieutenant 
Lockwood,  who  had  been  one  of  his  parishioners. 
He  said  :  *'  Just  a  few  days  ago  we  were  plunged 
into  son'ow  by  the  news  that  among  the  living  of  the 
latest  Arctic  expedition  who  had  been  rescued  was 
not  our  young  townsman,  the  son  of  one  of  the  most 
honored  members  of  this  congregation  ;  the  dispatch 
that  brought  the  glad  intelligence  that  six  were  saved 
was  soon  followed  by  the  sad  announcement  that  he, 
vigorous  as  he  was,  had  sunk  under  the  rigors  of  the 
climate,  worn  out  by  work  and  want.  Has  he  left 
no  lesson  for  you  and  me,  for  all  his  fellow-men  ? 
Think  of  his  ceaseless  endeavor,  of  the  courage  and 
devotion  with  which  he  bore  the  brunt  of  the  explo- 
ration, and  wore  away  his  own  strength  in  seeking 
food  for  his  comrades  and  himself  I  See  him,  with 
a  single  companion,  penetrating  nearer  to  ihe  north 
pole  than  any  other  man  had  ever  gone,  however  dar- 
ing !    When  he  had  done  his  whole  duty,  more  than 


4 


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THE  WOEFUL  RETURN. 


333 


had  ever  been  done  before,  be  lies  down  to  rest— to 

die. 

"Most  fittingly  did  bis  brotber  explorers  give  bis 
name  to  tbis  spot,  tbe  farthest  land  north  trod  by 
human  foot.    Lockwood  Island  shall  stand,  as  long  as 
the  eartb  endures,  amid  the  fvvful  wastes  and  silence 
of  these  mysterious  regions,  as  tbe  monument  of  this 
brave  young  soldier.    A  child  of  the  Church,  the  sub- 
ject of  ceaseless  prayer— of  yours,  of  mine,  of  his  fam- 
ily_we  trust  that  his  spirit,  chastened  and  exalted 
by  the  hardships  he  endured,  winged  its  flight  from 
the  inhospitable  land  that  refused  sustenance  to  his 
body,  and  now  rests  and  waits  in  the  paradise  of  God. 
Tve  mingle  our  tears  with  his  father's  and  his  mother's, 
and  with  those  of  all  who  loved  him ;  but  out  of  the 
deep  we  rejoice  in  tbe  record  he  has  left  behind  of  de- 
votion to  duty  even  unto  death.     Surely  no  life  is 
short  in  which  so  much  is  done,  or  in  vain  that  gives 
such  instruction  and  such  inspiration  to  other  lives. 
In  conclusion,  let  us  not  cast  away  our  faith  in  God, 
because  of  the  mysteries  and  trials  and  sufferings  of 
life." 


THE    EXD. 


